Mazda 6 Oil Change Guide

Your Guide to Changing the Oil and Filter on a Mazda 6 2.5L

Embarking on a DIY oil change for your Mazda 6, equipped with the SKYACTIV-G 2.5L I4 engine, is a rewarding task that can save you money and ensure your vehicle runs smoothly. This guide will walk you through the process, from preparing your car to topping it off with fresh oil. With a few basic tools and a bit of patience, you'll have your Mazda 6 ready for its next journey in no time.

Preparation is Key: Getting Your Mazda 6 Ready

Before you get your hands dirty, a few preparatory steps are crucial for a safe and efficient oil change. First, warm up the engine for a few minutes. This isn't just about making the oil drain faster; it also helps suspend any contaminants or fine metal shavings within the old oil, ensuring they are flushed out more effectively. Once the engine is warm, park your Mazda 6 on a level surface and switch off the ignition. Engaging the parking brake and placing wheel chocks on both sides of the rear wheels will provide an extra layer of safety, preventing any unwanted movement of the vehicle.

Next, open the bonnet. Locate the oil filler cap, usually marked with an oil can symbol, and twist it off counterclockwise. It's also a good idea to lift the dipstick handle an inch or two. These simple actions help prevent a vacuum from forming in the crankcase, allowing the old oil to drain out more freely.

Safely Accessing the Underside: Lifting Your Mazda 6

To access the oil drain bolt and filter, you'll need to lift the front of your Mazda 6. Carefully use a floor jack to raise the front of the vehicle. It is absolutely vital that you then support the car securely with at least two jack stands. Never rely solely on the jack; jack stands are designed to hold the weight of the vehicle safely. Ensure the jack stands are placed on sturdy points of the chassis, as indicated in your owner's manual.

Locating and Removing the Service Cover

With the car safely elevated, slide underneath the front passenger side of the engine bay. You'll need a Phillips head screwdriver (or an 8mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet) and a flathead screwdriver (or a pop rivet removal tool). Look for an oddly shaped plastic service cover, typically located on the underside of the skid plate. This cover protects vital components from road debris. Remove the two screws securing the cover by turning them counterclockwise. Following that, you’ll need to pry out the centre part of the two plastic pop rivets, then pull out the base of these fasteners. Keep these screws and rivets in a safe place so you don't lose them during the process.

Once the screws and rivets are removed, you can pull off the service cover. Set it aside carefully, along with its fasteners, as you'll need to reattach it later.

Draining the Old Oil: The Heart of the Operation

With the service cover removed, you'll have access to the oil pan and the oil drain bolt. Locate the black metal oil drain bolt on the bottom of the oil pan. Before you loosen it, slide your used oil catch basin directly underneath the drain bolt. This is where the old oil will flow out, so positioning is key to avoid making a mess.

Using an 8mm hex head socket and a 3/8" drive ratchet, or an 8mm Allen key wrench, begin to loosen the oil drain bolt by turning it counterclockwise. Be cautious as you remove the bolt; the oil may still be quite hot, depending on how long you warmed up the engine. Allow the old oil to drain completely. This can take several minutes, or until the flow reduces to an occasional drip. This thorough draining is important for removing as much old, degraded oil as possible.

Important Note on the Drain Bolt Washer

A common point of attention for Mazda 6 owners is the drain bolt washer. This small but vital component may detach and fall into the old oil when you remove the bolt. It's essential to either prevent it from falling off in the first place or to carefully fish it out of the used oil. Alternatively, you can purchase a new washer to ensure a proper seal. It is recommended to spin the oil drain bolt back in by hand a few turns clockwise to ensure it doesn't cross-thread. Then, tighten the drain bolt securely using the 8mm hex head socket or Allen key wrench. Aim for just past hand-tight, or approximately 25 lb-ft of torque. Over-tightening can strip the threads, so snug is the key.

Replacing the Oil Filter: Ensuring Clean Lubrication

Now, shift your attention to the old oil filter. Slide the used oil catch container to a position directly beneath the oil filter. Using a wrench or by hand, twist off the old oil filter in the counterclockwise direction. If the filter proves stubborn, an oil filter wrench, such as a Lisle 63600 attached to a short extension bar and a 3/8" drive ratchet, can be a lifesaver. Once loosened, allow any residual oil to drain from the filter receptacle for a few minutes.

Before installing the new filter, it's crucial to prepare it. Dip your fingertip into some of the new engine oil and lubricate the rubber O-ring gasket on the new oil filter. This simple step is vital; it ensures a better seal, prevents oil leaks, and makes the filter easier to remove during your next oil change. A popular and well-reviewed choice for this engine is the Mobil 1 M1-108 oil filter.

Crucially, double-check that the old rubber O-ring is not still stuck to the engine block where the old filter was. If it is, carefully remove it. Now, twist the new oil filter on by hand in the clockwise direction. Tighten it until it's about 1/3 to 2/3 of a turn past hand-tight. Overtightening can damage the gasket, so follow the filter manufacturer's recommendations if available.

Reassembly and Lowering Your Mazda 6

With the new filter in place and the drain bolt tightened, it's time to reassemble the underside. Slide the plastic service cover back into its original position on the engine splash guard. Re-insert the two plastic pop rivets, pushing in their centre pieces to secure them. Then, re-insert the two screws and tighten them clockwise using your Phillips head screwdriver or 8mm socket. Ensure both the screws and rivets are securely fastened.

With all the underside work complete, it's time to carefully lower your Mazda 6 back to the ground. Use the floor jack to lift the car just enough to remove the jack stands, then slowly lower the vehicle.

Adding the New Oil: The Final Touch

Now for the final, critical step: adding the new oil. Insert a plastic automotive funnel into the oil filler hole. The SKYACTIV-G DOHC 16V VVT 2.5L I4 engine in your Mazda 6 requires approximately 4.8 U.S. quarts (4.5 litres) of oil when changing the filter. However, it's always best to start by adding about 4 to 4.5 U.S. quarts of new SAE 0W-20 oil. It's far better to have slightly less oil than to overfill the engine. Overfilling can lead to sluggish performance and potential damage to seals and gaskets. Once you've added the initial amount, temporarily replace the oil filler cap by twisting it clockwise. Start the engine and let it run for a minute or two, checking for any leaks around the drain bolt and oil filter. Then, turn off the engine, wait a few minutes for the oil to settle, and check the oil level using the dipstick. Add more oil incrementally until the level reaches the 'full' mark on the dipstick. Never exceed this mark.

Resetting the Maintenance Monitor

Don't forget to reset your car's Maintenance Monitor System. You can choose between 'Fixed' (based purely on mileage) or 'Flexible' (where car sensors monitor oil condition). Whichever you choose, ensure the system is reset after each oil change to accurately track your vehicle's maintenance schedule.

Common Questions and Tips

Performing your own oil changes on your Mazda 6 is a straightforward process that contributes to its longevity and performance. By following these steps, you can confidently maintain your vehicle and keep it running at its best.

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