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The Vanished Rails of Helmshore: A UK Heritage Story

31/05/2007

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Nestled in the picturesque Rossendale Valley of Lancashire, the village of Helmshore holds a rich tapestry of history, deeply interwoven with the rise and fall of industrial might and, critically, the advent of the railway. Though the whistle of steam trains no longer echoes through its valleys, the story of Helmshore railway station remains a cornerstone of the area’s past, reflecting Britain's transformative industrial age and the subsequent changes that reshaped its transport landscape.

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The Helmshore Railway Station: A Vital Victorian Connection

The construction of Helmshore railway station was a significant undertaking by the East Lancashire Railway (ELR), with work spanning from 1844 to 1859. It proudly opened its doors to passengers and goods on 17th August 1848, marking a new era of connectivity for the burgeoning industrial community. Positioned strategically just north of where the railway line crossed Helmshore Road via a level crossing, and only a few hundred yards south of the town centre, the station quickly became a focal point for local life and commerce.

The station's layout was typical of its time, designed to efficiently manage both passenger and freight traffic. The main station buildings, housing booking offices and waiting rooms, were situated on the west side of the twin-track line. Across the tracks, on the eastern platform, stood more modest buildings, primarily serving trains bound for the bustling urban centres of Bury and Manchester Victoria. The eastern side of the tracks was also critical for the village’s industrial output, featuring a siding that led directly to a wooden goods shed. Beyond this, longer sidings provided essential access for the nearby Albion cotton mill, facilitating the transport of raw materials in and finished goods out, a testament to the railway's crucial role in the Industrial Revolution.

Operational efficiency was key, and the signal box, located just south of Helmshore Road on the eastern side of the line, was integral to this. The signalman not only controlled train movements but also manually operated the level crossing gates, ensuring the safety of both rail and road users. For pedestrians, a footbridge linked the southern ends of the platforms, offering a safe passage across the line, particularly when the gates were closed for passing trains.

Over its operational life, the station saw several changes in ownership, reflecting the evolving landscape of British railways. Initially operated by the East Lancashire Railway, it was merged into the Lancashire & Yorkshire Railway (LYR) on 13th May 1859. The LYR then ran the station until the monumental merger in 1923, which saw it absorbed into the London Midland & Scottish Railway (LMSR). This national consolidation eventually led to its operation under British Railways London Midland Region, before its ultimate closure.

A Timetable Through Time: Passenger Services and Fares

Helmshore station was a busy stop, facilitating daily commutes and longer journeys for the local population. The frequency and reach of its services demonstrate its importance to the region. Here’s a comparative look at the passenger services over the decades:

YearOperatorNorthbound Trains (Weekdays)Southbound Trains (Weekdays)Notable ServicesSingle Third Class Fare (to Manchester)
July 1922Lancashire & Yorkshire Railway (LYR)1718Mostly through trains between Manchester, Accrington, and Colne.N/A
July 1946London Midland & Scottish Railway (LMSR)1514Included an 8:28 a.m. service from Colne continuing via Bury, Manchester (Victoria), and Stockport (Edgeley) to London (Euston), arriving at 2:25 p.m.N/A
January 1956British Railways London Midland Region1515Several trains began or terminated at Colne rather than Accrington. Gradual takeover by diesel multiple units from steam loco hauled trains from the later 1950s.2s 8d (13p) for 17 miles

The modest fare of 2 shillings and 8 pence (equivalent to 13p today) for a 17-mile journey to Manchester in 1956 highlights the affordability of rail travel for the working class during that era. However, as the 1950s progressed, steam locomotives, once the workhorses of the railway, began to be phased out, gradually replaced by more modern diesel multiple units, signalling a shift in rail technology and operations.

The Tragic Helmshore Rail Accident of 1860

While Helmshore station generally facilitated smooth travel, it was also the site of a tragic incident that remains a somber part of its history. On 4th September 1860, the Helmshore rail accident occurred, resulting in 11 fatalities and 77 injuries. The disaster unfolded when the rear portion of a Lancashire & Yorkshire Railway passenger excursion train became detached from the main body of the train. Uncontrolled, this section rolled back down the gradient, colliding with an oncoming passenger excursion train. The accident, which happened approximately 400 yards from Helmshore station, underscored the inherent risks of early railway travel and led to significant calls for improved safety measures.

The Station Site Today: A Legacy Transformed

Helmshore station’s operational life came to an end on 5th December 1966, a casualty of the widespread railway closures under the Beeching Axe, with the very last passenger train having operated two days prior. However, this was not the immediate end for the site. Following the withdrawal of services, the East Lancashire Railway Preservation Society leased the station site and a short length of the line from British Railways. They moved some of their valuable collection of steam and diesel locomotives and rolling stock, including goods vans, to Helmshore, using the site for preservation and operation.

This period of activity was relatively brief. When the railway line between Bury, Ramsbottom, and Rawtenstall became available after British Railways ceased passenger services there on 5th June 1972, the Preservation Society recognised its greater potential for operating regular steam train services due to its longer, contiguous stretch of track. Consequently, they moved their operational base to Bury, and the rail track at Helmshore was subsequently lifted, marking the definitive end of its active railway life.

Today, remnants of the station's past are still visible, albeit repurposed. Station Road now occupies part of the abandoned railway track to the north of the former level crossing. In a remarkable transformation, the old signal box, once a hive of activity, has been converted into a dwelling house, standing as a unique residential landmark. The Helmshore viaduct, close to the textile museum, has been ingeniously repurposed as a footpath, offering scenic walks, while the Ravenshore viaduct, though showing signs of vandalism, remains a substantial monument to the area's railway heritage. Recent remedial work (2018/19) has seen these viaducts integrated into the Sustrans cycle route, known as 'The Scenic Route Branch Line', part of the National Cycle Network Route 6, connecting Accrington through Rossendale via Haslingden and Helmshore to Ramsbottom. This project has also seen the upgrade of the Snig Hole/Ravenshore footpath, allowing new generations to traverse the paths once trodden by trains.

The Village of Helmshore: Beyond the Rails

Helmshore itself is a charming village nestled in the Rossendale Valley, Lancashire, England. Situated south of Haslingden, between the A56 and the B6235, it lies approximately 16 miles (26 km) north of Manchester. With a population of 5,805 at the 2011 census, Helmshore boasts a mixed housing landscape, from traditional two-up, two-down terraces and top-and-bottom houses to a few surviving back-to-back cottages. More recently, between the 1970s and 2020, new housing estates have proliferated, catering to a growing number of commuters to nearby cities.

Ancient Roots and Medieval Lore

The area surrounding Helmshore is characterised by its distinctive moorland. Post-Ice Age, this landscape was forested, with bog oak still discoverable on the flat peatland tops over 250 metres high. The forest cover gradually declined during the Neolithic period and largely disappeared during the Bronze Age, primarily due to climatic changes, though human activity also played a part. Evidence of Neolithic human habitation exists, with stone implements found on Bull Hill and in the Musbury valley, and the intriguing stones at Thirteen Stone Hill near Grane. The area is also crisscrossed by a relatively complex network of both local and long-distance old tracks, hinting at ancient pathways and trade routes.

The village is dominated by the spectacular flat-topped Musbury Tor, which once formed the heart of a medieval hunting park, or Forest. Flanking either side of the Tor are two valleys: Alden Valley to the south-west and Musbury Valley to the north-west. Historical records show that the 'whole land of Musbury' was granted to John de Lacy before 1241. A licence for a 'free warren' was granted to the Earl of Lincoln in 1294, and work on fencing the Park was completed by 1304–05, with palings being erected. The park, with its 'herbage and agistments', was valued at 13s. 4d. in 1311. In the 1320s and 1330s, it was known as 'Queen Isabel's park of Musbury', with fines applied for trespass. Stretches of the original ditch enclosure are still clearly visible in the Grane and Alden valleys, and deer are occasionally sighted in the area, a living link to its medieval past. Several current placenames also serve to identify the Park's former boundaries.

One of the main early tracks traversing Helmshore was a route from the south, originating by the Pilgrim's Cross on Holcombe Moor (in existence in AD 1176), continuing through Haslingden on its way to Whalley. This route also connected with Watling Street at Affetside and a well-established way from Bolton to Rossendale. In Anglo-Saxon times, Whalley church was an important Minster and the mother church of an enormous parish. Later, during the medieval period, several chapels-of-ease were established to provide easier access to Mass and sacraments for the scattered population. The move of Cistercian monks from Stanlow to Whalley at the end of the 13th century would likely have increased traffic along this route. However, historian Mark Fletcher, in a 2020 article 'So Who Were the Medieval Pilgrims?', questioned this theory, suggesting that these 'pilgrims routes' were perhaps more plausibly used by drovers, moving livestock from grazing areas to markets. To the south on this old pilgrim road lies Robin Hood's Well, and above that, a cairn and memorial stone commemorate Ellen Strange. Though a Victorian ballad by John Fawcett Skelton romanticised her as a young girl murdered by her lover, it is now known to be the murder of a wife by her husband in 1761. The ballad was commemorated by Bob Frith and Horse and Bamboo Theatre in June 1978, during which a memorial stone carved by Liverpool artist Don McKinlay was unveiled. These ancient routes, once vital, fell into disuse for anything other than foot traffic after the turnpike improvements of the 19th century.

The Engine of Industry: Helmshore's Mill Heritage

Helmshore's significant development can be directly attributed to its damp climate, which was ideally suited to the burgeoning wool, cotton, and linen industries. During the early phase of the Industrial Revolution, from the 1790s onwards, small mills were constructed in the river valleys, such as Alden Valley, where ruins still stand. These early mills were often located close to farming areas, with many mill-owners also being farmers, reflecting the transitional nature of the economy. However, by the latter half of the 19th century, these smaller mills became redundant as industry expanded enormously. Mill owners, notably the Turner family, built extensive terraced dwellings to house the workforce required to run their large cotton mills, strategically locating them close to the new roads and railways. It was during this period that Helmshore gradually superseded Musbury as the primary name for the community.

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Helmshore transformed into a quintessential mill workers' settlement, characterised by an extensive area of woollen and cotton mills and their associated housing, all built along the valley of the River Ogden. The Turner family were pioneers in establishing this industrial hub, acquiring land in 1789 and constructing Higher Mill as a woollen fulling mill, initially powered by two water wheels (one of which still exists as part of the museum). William Turner (1793-1852), of the next generation, significantly expanded operations in the 1820s by adding a larger, steam-powered wool carding and spinning mill, whose distinctive chimney still stands on the opposite hillside. After a fire in the 1860s, the mill was rebuilt and later sold to Lawrence Whitaker and his sons in the 1920s. Flaxmoss House on Campion Drive was built as the Turners' family residence, a testament to their prosperity. The Turners also established Tan Pits, a dye works, and the impressive seven-storey, steam-powered Hollin Bank (or Middle Mill), which was specifically built to house power looms, revolutionising textile production.

The area's expansion gained further momentum with the opening of the railway in 1848, leading to the construction of new landmarks such as the Station Hotel and St Thomas's Church (built 1851/52). Another significant contributor to this growth was William John Porritt (1820-1896), originally from Ramsbottom. Porritt began his working life as a hand-loom weaver at Dearden Clough Mill before rising to become a successful cotton merchant. The Porritts were widely regarded as benevolent employers for their time. William Porritt invested heavily in the new seaside resort of St. Annes, even using stone from his Helmshore quarries for some of the houses there. He famously organised special trains from Helmshore Station to transport his workers to witness the opening of St. Anne's Pier. The Porritt mills included the water-powered Bridge End Mill and the colossal Sunnybank Mill, which at one point was reputed to house the longest loom in the world. Their mills were renowned for producing industrial felts, some of which were used in the production of banknotes, highlighting their specialised and high-quality output. In a gesture of local philanthropy, Porritt donated the Memorial Gardens, complete with its iconic clock-tower, to the village in 1922.

Further industrial activity was contributed by the Holden Wood Manufacturing Company, known locally as the Bleach Works, and earlier as Nobels. Situated at the north of the village, below the reservoirs, this facility, spread across both sides of Holcombe Road, played a crucial role during World War II by producing a top-secret propellant for aircraft. It ceased operations in 1997, at which point it was manufacturing cellulose paper, some of which was also used in banknote production. Despite its industrial significance, the factory was a major contributor to the pollution entering the River Ogden at that time. Ironically, the area at the eastern end of the works, known as The Flash, was a wetland that served as a breeding ground for the Little Ringed Plover, showcasing nature's resilience amidst industrialisation.

Innovations and Conflicts: A Glimpse into the 20th Century

Helmshore was not just a hub of industrial production but also a site of early transport innovation. In 1907, one of the world's first municipal bus services linked Helmshore to Haslingden. Operated by Haslingden Council, the 18-seat Leyland bus made 14 daily trips, boasting a top speed of 16 mph (26 km/h). In 1919, the Council introduced a 12-seater 'Whippet', which turned around at Woodbank. The driver also issued tickets, making it one of the world's earliest one-man operated bus services, a remarkable precursor to modern public transport systems.

The village also experienced the direct impact of global conflicts. During the First World War, on 25th September 1916, a 179m-long German military Zeppelin airship flew over Helmshore on a bombing mission. It was likely following the railway line, attempting to inflict damage on the transport system. One bomb was dropped near Clod Lane, Haslingden, where a gun cotton factory was located. Ewood Bridge station was destroyed by bombs, and after passing over Helmshore, the Zeppelin continued to Holcombe, causing further damage. The Second World War also left its mark on Helmshore. Rodwells, located between Irongate and Kenyon Clough off Holcombe Road, to the south of Helmshore, became Britain's biggest poultry supplier during the war, a vital contribution to the national food effort. Furthermore, local accounts mention American GIs setting up camp on the flat top of Musbury Tor to practice paratroop drops and field exercises with live ammunition before D-Day. Chris Aspin, in 'The Helmshore Historian', recalls seeing American paratroopers landing on Bull Hill in the autumn of 1941 and later, as a boy, witnessing GIs camped near bullock sheds above Great House just before D-Day, along with their practice with live ammunition in Alden Valley.

Echoes of the Past: Ghosts and Remaining Relics

Like many places with a long and eventful history, Helmshore is not without its local legends and ghost stories. Local historian Chris Aspin recounts tales of a ghost train, whose eerie whistle has reportedly been heard in the Snig Hole area, a lingering echo of the tragic 1860 rail accident. Another railway-related story speaks of a murder in a trackside hut on the disused line between Helmshore and Ramsbottom, near Irwell Vale, adding a chilling layer to the area's railway folklore.

Though the railway line that once ran through Helmshore closed in 1966 as part of the Beeching Axe, several relics remain, serving as poignant reminders of its past. The Helmshore viaduct, standing proudly near the textile museum, has been transformed into a popular footpath, offering scenic views. The Ravenshore viaduct, despite some vandalism over the years, remains a considerable monument to the railway heritage. Significant remedial work undertaken in 2018/19 saw these viaducts integrated into a Sustrans cycle route, aptly named 'The Scenic Route Branch Line', which forms part of the National Cycle Network Route 6. This route now links Accrington through Rossendale, passing through Haslingden and Helmshore, all the way to Ramsbottom. As part of this extensive work, the Snig Hole/Ravenshore footpath has also been upgraded, ensuring these historical pathways can be enjoyed by walkers and cyclists for years to come.

Helmshore Today

Since the 1970s, Helmshore has undergone a second major expansion, with the construction of numerous new housing estates and infill developments. This growth largely caters to commuters working in Manchester and other nearby urban centres, reflecting the village's evolution from an industrial powerhouse to a residential haven. In more recent times, Helmshore gained national attention in 2016 following the tragic murder of businesswoman Sadie Hartley, an event that deeply affected the local community.

Frequently Asked Questions about Helmshore

Q: When did Helmshore railway station open and close?
A: Helmshore railway station opened on 17th August 1848 and officially closed to passenger services on 5th December 1966.

Q: What was the Helmshore rail accident of 1860?
A: On 4th September 1860, the rear portion of a passenger excursion train detached and rolled back down the line, colliding with an oncoming excursion train. The accident resulted in 11 fatalities and 77 injuries.

Q: What is Helmshore historically known for?
A: Helmshore is historically known for its significant role in the Industrial Revolution, particularly its textile mills (wool, cotton, linen) powered by the River Ogden. It was also a key railway hub and has ancient roots dating back to Neolithic times and medieval hunting parks.

Q: What happened to the old railway line at Helmshore after its closure?
A: After its closure, the East Lancashire Railway Preservation Society briefly used the site. The track was later lifted. Today, parts of the old line, including the Helmshore and Ravenshore viaducts, have been converted into footpaths and integrated into the Sustrans National Cycle Network Route 6. The former signal box has been converted into a dwelling.

Q: Is there anything left of the original Helmshore station buildings today?
A: While the main station buildings are gone and the track lifted, the former signal box has been converted into a dwelling house. The viaducts that were part of the railway infrastructure remain and have been repurposed for public use as footpaths and cycle routes.

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