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Why Your Car's Burning Oil & How to Fix It

09/11/2018

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Regular oil changes are absolutely imperative to keeping your car engine running as it should, ensuring proper lubrication and preventing premature wear. Yet, what happens when your vehicle seems to be using an excessive amount of oil in between these vital changes? Why is your car burning oil, and more importantly, what can be done to correct this concerning issue? This isn't just about topping up; it's a symptom of an underlying problem that, if left unaddressed, could lead to significant engine damage and costly repairs.

How much does oil leak repair cost?
On the other hand, if you’re using synthetic oil, that can go up to $125. However, if you have a gasket, valve seal, or piston ring issue, the cost of your oil leak repair will go up exponentially. Here, you’re usually paying as little as $14-$60 for a valve seal replacement. However, the cost of labor can range between $200 and $2,000+.

In this comprehensive guide, we'll delve deep into the top reasons why cars burn excessive oil. We’ll show you not only how to identify the potential culprits but also offer practical ways to fix them. We’ll also dive into a candid discussion about stop-leak products, examining their effectiveness and potential drawbacks, and answer your most frequently asked questions about oil consumption to ensure you have all the information you need to maintain your vehicle's health.

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What Causes a Car Engine To Burn Oil?

When an engine burns oil, it means that oil is entering the combustion chambers and being consumed along with the fuel. This is not normal operation and always indicates a problem. Car engines can burn more oil if there’s clogged crankcase ventilation, a faulty PCV valve, or if you are simply using the wrong type of oil. It’s also commonly caused by leaking seals or gaskets, worn piston rings or pistons, excessively high oil pressure, failing valve seals, or simply an old and worn-out motor. Let’s jump into the most common possibilities, so you can diagnose what’s going on with your engine.

1. Clogged Crankcase Ventilation

The crankcase is the lower part of the engine that houses the crankshaft and collects the engine oil. During normal operation, the pistons generate combustion gases, and some of these gases (known as 'blow-by') inevitably escape past the piston rings and into the crankcase. This creates pressure buildup. To manage this, modern engines employ a Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system designed to recirculate these combustion gases back into the combustion chamber to be re-burned, rather than venting them into the atmosphere.

However, when the ventilation system is backed up due to clogged valve covers, a blocked breather hose, or a malfunctioning PCV valve, these gases cannot escape efficiently. This problem leads to a phenomenon known as 'oil blowback' or 'blow-by pressure,' where the excessive pressure in the crankcase forces engine oil into areas it shouldn't be, such as the intake manifold and subsequently the combustion chamber, where it burns alongside the fuel. The result is an engine that consumes oil at a rapid pace, often accompanied by a smoky exhaust and reduced engine performance. A simple visual inspection of hoses and checking for sludge in valve covers can sometimes reveal these blockages.

2. Bad PCV Valve

As mentioned, the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve is a crucial component of the PCV system. Its primary role is to regulate the flow of crankcase gases back into the engine's intake manifold. It's a one-way valve that opens and closes based on engine vacuum, ensuring proper ventilation and preventing excessive pressure buildup. Over time, the PCV valve can become clogged with oil sludge and carbon deposits, or it can simply fail mechanically.

When a PCV valve goes bad, it can either stick open or stick closed. If it sticks closed, pressure builds up in the crankcase, leading to oil being forced past seals and into the combustion chamber – similar to a clogged ventilation system. If it sticks open, it can draw too much oil vapour into the intake, leading to excessive oil consumption. When this happens, oil blowback occurs, and as oil gets sucked into the combustion chamber and burns, you may also notice distinctive blue smoke coming from the tailpipe of your vehicle, particularly during acceleration or deceleration. Other symptoms can include a rough idle, engine surging, or even oil leaks from other seals due to pressure buildup.

3. Leaking Seals Or Gaskets

This is one of the more critical possibilities if your car engine is burning oil. As the internal engine seals or gaskets fail, an oil leak can occur that’s often difficult to notice externally. More concerningly, the oil could start leaking internally, which would directly cause the engine to burn it, resulting in that tell-tale blue smoke from the exhaust. Internal leaks are insidious because there are no visible puddles beneath your car.

One common culprit is the valve stem seals, which we'll discuss in more detail. Another significant one is the head gasket. If the head gasket is to blame, you may be going through oil without noticing an external leak. However, if you take a look in the coolant reservoir, you may find oil mixing there, creating a milky, mayonnaise-like substance. This cross-contamination can lead to an overheating engine and is typically a costly repair due to the labour involved in dismantling the engine to replace the gasket. A thorough inspection by a professional mechanic is crucial to identify the exact source of an internal leak.

4. Poor or Wrong Oil Quality

One of the easiest problems to remedy would be using the wrong oil type or poor quality engine oil. If the motor oil you use has bad heat resistance or an inadequate formulation, it may not be providing the robust lubrication and protection your engine needs. Conventional mineral oils are notorious for having a less stable molecular structure that can more easily break down and burn off when exposed to the high temperatures within an engine, especially under strenuous conditions. Not only does this problem lead to a lower oil level, but it also accelerates the formation of harmful carbon deposits and sludge buildup in the engine.

There’s also the chance that you’ve poured the wrong viscosity oil into the system. If you aren’t using the exact viscosity recommended by the manufacturer, the oil may be too thin (lower viscosity). If it’s too thin, oil can slip beyond the valve seals or worn-out piston rings more easily than a thicker, more appropriate oil can. Conversely, if the oil is too thick, it may not circulate effectively, leading to increased wear and potential overheating. That’s why it’s essential to use the exact oil type and viscosity recommended by the auto manufacturer, which can always be found in your vehicle’s owner’s manual.

5. Bad Piston Rings Or Pistons

Another potentially costly repair arises when the piston rings or the pistons themselves are worn or damaged. The piston rings are critical components responsible for creating a tight seal against the cylinder walls. This seal is vital for two reasons: firstly, it ensures the engine has the necessary compression for efficient combustion, and secondly, it prevents combustion gases from escaping into the crankcase and, crucially, stops engine oil from entering the combustion chamber from below.

When the piston rings wear out, become stuck due to carbon buildup, or if the cylinder wall itself starts to deteriorate (e.g., scoring), the seal is compromised. Oil can then bypass the rings and enter the combustion chamber, where it burns off, leaving you running low between oil changes. This issue also leads to increased exhaust smoke (often blue), reduced engine power, poor acceleration, and serious drivability concerns. A compression test or leak-down test is often required to accurately diagnose worn piston rings or cylinder wear.

6. High Oil Pressure

While seemingly counterintuitive, excessively high oil pressure can also contribute to increased oil consumption. The engine needs to maintain a particular pressure level to ensure all moving parts receive adequate lubrication without overwhelming the system. If there’s a clog somewhere in the oil circulation system, or a fault with the oil pressure relief valve, it can lead to increased oil pressure, which can then force oil past seals and gaskets that might otherwise be holding up.

For example, a severely clogged oil filter can restrict oil flow, causing pressure to build up upstream. Changing this filter will help the oil flow normally again and can alleviate the pressure issue. However, persistent high oil pressure without an obvious cause might indicate a deeper problem with the oil pump or its pressure relief mechanism, which would require professional diagnosis. Maintaining correct oil pressure is key to preventing both oil starvation and excessive consumption.

7. Bad Valve Seals

Valve stem seals are small, rubber or synthetic components located at the top of the valve guides, where the valve stems pass through into the cylinder head. Their primary function is to control the amount of oil that lubricates the valve stems and guides, preventing excessive oil from seeping down into the combustion chamber. They are crucial regulators of oil consumption.

However, when these seals become brittle, hardened, or crack due to age and heat exposure, they lose their ability to create an effective seal. As a result, oil can leak past them and into the combustion chamber, especially when the engine is decelerating or idling (when vacuum is high). You will notice a significant drop in oil levels over time. The most common symptom is a puff of blue smoke from the exhaust when you start the engine after it’s been sitting for a while, or when you lift off the accelerator after revving. Even worse, without the right amount of oil, engine damage can occur over time due to insufficient lubrication.

8. Old, Worn-out Engine

If you are driving an older vehicle that’s seen a lot of miles and years of service, there’s a strong possibility that the internal components of the motor are simply worn out. Engines aren’t made to last forever, and years of friction, heat cycles, and combustion processes take their toll. Components like piston rings, valve guides, cylinder walls, and various seals and gaskets gradually wear down or become brittle.

Even with your most diligent efforts to keep the engine running right with regular maintenance, natural wear and tear will eventually lead to increased clearances and reduced sealing capabilities. As the engine ages and wears, you will notice a gradual increase in oil consumption. While it might be tempting to just keep topping up, it’s important to recognise that this is a sign of an engine reaching the end of its practical lifespan, and major repairs might not be economically viable.

Common Symptoms of Oil Burning

Beyond the obvious sign of constantly needing to top up your oil, there are several other indicators that your car is burning oil. Recognising these symptoms early can help you diagnose the issue before it escalates:

  • Blue or Grey Exhaust Smoke: This is the most definitive sign. Blue or bluish-grey smoke exiting the tailpipe, especially during startup, acceleration, or deceleration, indicates that oil is burning in the combustion chamber.
  • Lowering Oil Levels: If you find yourself frequently adding oil between scheduled oil changes, it's a clear sign of consumption. Keep a log of how much and how often you're adding oil.
  • Fouled Spark Plugs: When oil burns in the combustion chamber, it leaves carbon deposits. These deposits can accumulate on the spark plugs, causing them to become fouled. This can lead to misfires, a rough idle, or reduced engine performance.
  • Reduced Engine Performance: As oil burns, it can reduce the octane rating of the fuel-air mixture, leading to less efficient combustion. This might manifest as decreased acceleration, a general lack of power, or poor fuel economy.
  • Oil Smell in Cabin: While less common for internal burning, if the burning oil is escaping through a minor exhaust leak or if it's an external leak dripping onto hot engine components, you might smell burning oil inside the car.
  • Engine Noises: If oil levels drop too low due to burning, engine components might not be adequately lubricated, leading to new ticking, knocking, or grinding noises. This indicates severe lack of lubrication and imminent engine damage.

How to Fix Excessive Oil Consumption

If your car is burning oil more than it should, addressing the problem promptly is crucial to prevent further damage. Here are a few different methods for fixing it, starting with the simplest:

1. Check Oil Condition & Type

The first and easiest step is to check the oil quality and ensure you're using the correct type. Reference the type of oil you are currently using and match it up with what’s recommended by the manufacturer in your owner’s manual. Pay close attention to the viscosity rating (e.g., 5W-30, 0W-20). If you aren’t using the right viscosity or a suitable type (e.g., using conventional oil when synthetic is specified), it’s time to perform a full oil and filter change with the correct product. You may also choose to upgrade to a better quality brand, especially if you suspect poor oil quality was contributing to the issue.

When you check the oil, observe its colour and consistency. If it looks very dirty, black, sludgy, or contaminated (e.g., milky from coolant mixing), go ahead and change it. From here, keep a meticulous record of how often you are adding more oil to get a clearer idea of the rate of consumption. This baseline data will be invaluable for future diagnosis or to confirm if the oil change has helped.

2. Troubleshoot The Cause

The next step is a little harder, especially since you are dealing with internal engine components. It’s time to figure out which one of the components discussed earlier is faulty, so it can be fixed. Some issues aren’t difficult for a competent DIY enthusiast to resolve, such as replacing a PCV valve, which is often a relatively straightforward part to access and swap. Other issues aren’t as easy to determine, such as diagnosing bad valve seals or worn piston rings, which require more specialised tools and knowledge.

To get to the bottom of the problem, you may need to look at all of the symptoms the vehicle is experiencing in conjunction. For example, blue smoke on startup points more towards valve seals, while constant blue smoke under acceleration might suggest piston ring issues. A professional diagnostic approach might involve:

  • Compression Test: Checks the sealing integrity of the combustion chambers, indicating issues with piston rings or valves.
  • Leak-Down Test: More precise than a compression test, it pinpoints exactly where compression is being lost (e.g., past rings, through valves).
  • PCV System Inspection: Checking the valve itself, hoses, and ensuring no blockages.
  • Visual Inspection: Looking for external oil leaks or signs of oil around spark plugs.
  • Endoscope/Borescope Inspection: Using a small camera to look inside cylinders for signs of oil burning or cylinder wall wear.

Putting all this information together is like working with a puzzle, requiring patience and systematic elimination.

3. Visit A Professional Mechanic

Many of the potential problems causing oil burning aren’t suitable for the novice mechanic. If you are only accustomed to changing the oil and performing other basic maintenance tasks, or if your troubleshooting efforts haven't yielded a clear answer, it’s always best for you to take the car to a qualified and reputable mechanic. They possess the specialised tools, diagnostic equipment, and expertise to accurately pinpoint the problem.

Research reliable mechanics in your area, check online reviews, or talk to loved ones to see who they trust for automotive repairs. It’s far better to pay a small diagnostic fee to find out exactly what’s going on than to let the engine fail completely because of negligence or attempting a repair beyond your skill level. Early diagnosis can often prevent a minor issue from escalating into a catastrophic and financially ruinous engine failure.

Can I Use A Stop-Leak Additive To Stop My Car From Burning Oil?

If you’ve tried changing out the oil and troubleshooting the issues without any remedy, you may be thinking about pouring an additive in with the oil. Stop-leak products are a common solution and one that’s often worth trying as a temporary measure, but there are some important warnings to consider.

Firstly, while there are many reliable brands out there that contain seal conditioners designed to swell and revitalise hardened or shrunk rubber seals (like valve stem seals or crankshaft seals), there are also some that aren’t worth your money or could even cause more harm than good. Make sure you perform adequate research and choose a reputable product specifically designed for oil burning, not just general oil leaks.

Secondly, if there’s a major mechanical failure occurring, such as severely worn piston rings, a cracked head gasket, or significant cylinder wall damage, there’s no sense in trying an additive. These products are designed for minor leaks or slightly hardened seals, not for repairing structural damage. Continuing to neglect the underlying mechanical issue and relying solely on an additive is going to lead to a more expensive bill down the road, as the problem will inevitably worsen. Instead, get the problem properly diagnosed and fixed.

On the other hand, if you are planning to drive the wheels off of an old car and don’t want to invest any more significant money into a major repair, a bottle of special additives may indeed give you a little more time with your car before it eventually heads to the junkyard. It’s a gamble, but sometimes it can buy you a few extra months or miles. Just be aware of the limitations.

Comparative Table: Common Oil Burning Causes

To help you understand the different issues at a glance, here's a comparative table outlining common causes, their primary symptoms, and typical repair considerations:

Cause of Oil BurningPrimary SymptomsTypical Repair Difficulty & Cost
Clogged PCV Valve/SystemBlue smoke (especially on acceleration/deceleration), rough idle, oil leaks from other seals, increased crankcase pressure.Low difficulty (DIY friendly for valve), Low cost (£20-£100).
Bad Valve Stem SealsPuff of blue smoke on startup or after idling/decelerating, oil on spark plug threads.High difficulty (engine disassembly often required), High cost (£500-£2000+ due to labour).
Worn Piston Rings/CylindersConstant blue smoke, reduced engine power, poor compression, fouled spark plugs, excessive blow-by.Very high difficulty (major engine rebuild), Very high cost (£1500-£4000+ or engine replacement).
Leaking Head Gasket (Internal)Oil in coolant (milky substance), overheating, blue/white smoke, external oil/coolant leaks.High difficulty (significant engine disassembly), High cost (£800-£2500+).
Wrong Oil Type/ViscosityGradual oil consumption increase, potentially more carbon buildup.Very low difficulty (DIY oil change), Low cost (£30-£80 for correct oil).
High Oil Pressure (Clogged Filter)Increased oil consumption, potential oil leaks, possibly oil pressure warning light.Low difficulty (DIY oil/filter change), Low cost (£30-£80).
General Engine Wear (Old Engine)Gradual increase in oil consumption over time, generally reduced performance, various minor leaks.Highly variable; often uneconomical to repair extensively.

Frequently Asked Questions About Oil Burning

Is it bad to drive a car that burns oil?

Yes, it is definitely bad to drive a car that is burning oil, and it’s a problem that absolutely needs to be repaired. Firstly, it indicates an underlying issue that will likely worsen over time, leading to more severe and costly damage. Secondly, if you don’t keep the engine topped off at all times and the oil level drops too low, it could lead to internal engine damage due to insufficient lubrication. This can cause components to seize, requiring an expensive engine rebuild or complete replacement. Furthermore, burning oil pollutes the environment more, and continuous blue smoke can even lead to an MOT failure in the UK. Ignoring the issue is a false economy and poses a risk to your engine’s longevity.

How much does it cost to fix a car burning oil?

The cost to fix a car burning oil varies dramatically depending on the root cause. If you simply need to change the oil to the correct type or replace a clogged PCV valve, you may not spend more than £50-£100 for parts and a bit of your time. On the other hand, some repairs can be extremely costly. For example, replacing worn valve stem seals can cost upwards of £500 to £2,000 or more because of the significant labour involved in removing cylinder heads and other components. Repairing or replacing worn piston rings or a blown head gasket can easily range from £1,000 to £4,000 or even more, pushing into the territory of considering a replacement engine or vehicle. Always get a diagnostic first to understand the specific repair needed.

How long will an engine last burning oil?

There’s no definitive way of knowing exactly how long an engine will last if it’s burning oil. Some cars are known for burning a small amount of oil from new and can continue to run for many years as long as the system is regularly topped off and not allowed to run critically low. In other cases, a significant fault could cause the motor to fail prematurely, sometimes within weeks or months, if the fault is left unrepaired. The rate of consumption, the underlying cause, and how diligently you keep the oil topped up all play a role. That’s why it’s imperative to diagnose and repair the issue immediately to minimise risk and extend engine life.

Does burning oil mean I need a new engine?

Not always, and thankfully, often not. It’s entirely possible that you aren’t using the right type or viscosity of oil, or there’s a relatively minor problem, such as a clogged PCV valve or hardened valve stem seals. These are all fixable issues that, once addressed, can significantly reduce or stop the engine from burning oil. However, there are more costly possibilities, such as severely worn piston rings or a blown head gasket. Unless the core internals of the engine are extensively damaged (e.g., cracked block, severe cylinder scoring), you shouldn’t necessarily need to replace the entire motor. A thorough diagnosis will determine the extent of the damage.

Will high-mileage oil stop burning oil?

If your engine has accumulated a lot of miles, switching to a high-mileage oil may indeed be useful. High-mileage oils are specifically formulated with different additive packages, including special seal conditioners that can help to swell and soften hardened rubber seals, such as valve stem seals or crankshaft seals. This can help to restore a better seal and reduce oil seepage. They also often contain more robust anti-wear additives to protect older, more worn components. You still need to make sure that the viscosity of the high-mileage oil is what’s recommended by the manufacturer in your owner’s manual, as using the wrong viscosity can negate any benefits.

What colour is oil burning smoke?

Oil burning smoke is typically blue or bluish-grey. This distinct colour is caused by the oil being burned in the combustion chamber. It can often be seen most clearly on engine startup, during acceleration, or when decelerating from high speeds. If you see white smoke, that usually indicates burning coolant, while black smoke points to an overly rich fuel mixture.

How often should I check my oil if it's burning?

If your car is burning oil, you should check the oil level much more frequently than the standard recommendation. Depending on the rate of consumption, this could mean checking it every week, or even every few days, especially before long journeys. It’s crucial to keep the oil topped up to the correct level to prevent critical engine damage from oil starvation.

If your car is burning oil, you want to take the situation seriously. It’s paramount for the engine to retain just the right amount of oil for proper lubrication, cooling, and overall function. Without the correct amount of oil, the engine starts to make concerning noises, and its internal components can become permanently damaged, leading to catastrophic failure.

If you aren’t sure how to figure out what’s wrong, or if the problem seems beyond your capabilities, visit a trusted and reputable mechanic in your area. There’s a good chance that the problem can be resolved with a minor or moderate repair, saving you from a much larger expense down the line. Hopefully, with a quick and accurate diagnosis and repair, you will stop pouring so much oil into your vehicle and enjoy many more miles of reliable driving.

If you want to read more articles similar to Why Your Car's Burning Oil & How to Fix It, you can visit the Engine category.

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