17/09/2010
DIY Guide: Replacing Rear Brake Pads on a 12th Gen Ford F-150
Maintaining your Ford F-150's braking system is crucial for safety and performance. Replacing the rear brake pads is a common maintenance task that, with the right tools and guidance, can be tackled by the home mechanic. This guide specifically addresses the 12th generation Ford F-150, covering models from 2009 to 2014, and provides a detailed, step-by-step process to help you successfully change your rear disc brake pads.

This comprehensive tutorial is designed to assist owners of the 12th generation (2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013 & 2014) Ford F-150 truck. While focused on this specific model, the principles and many of the steps involved in changing rear brake pads can be applied to other F-Series trucks and a variety of Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury vehicles. This includes models such as the Super Duty F-250, F-350, F-450, Expedition, Explorer, Edge, Escape, E-150, E-250, E-350, Transit Connect, Flex, MKX, MKT, Navigator, and Mountaineer. If you're looking to save money and gain confidence in your vehicle's upkeep, this do-it-yourself (DIY) rear brake job is an excellent project.
Essential Tools and Parts
Before you begin, ensure you have all the necessary tools and replacement parts. Having everything ready will make the process smoother and more efficient. Here's what you'll need:
- Flathead screwdriver
- Lug nut wrench
- Floor jack
- Two jack stands
- 13mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet
- A "C" or "F" clamp
- New set of rear brake pads
- Packet of brake caliper lubricant
- Brake parts cleaner spray
- Optional: Rubber mallet, bungee cord or piece of rope, torque wrench
Choosing the Right Brake Pads
Selecting the correct brake pads is vital for optimal stopping power and longevity. For your 12th generation Ford F-150, several compatible aftermarket brake pads are available. Always verify the correct part numbers for your specific truck, as they can vary depending on the model year, trim level, and whether it's a 2WD or 4WD vehicle. Some popular and reliable options include:
| Brand | Part Number |
|---|---|
| Motorcraft | BRF-1425 |
| KFE | KFE1602-104 |
| Wagner | QC1602 |
| Wagner | ZD1602 |
| TRW | TPC1602 |
| Raybestos | ATD1602C |
| ACDelco | 17D1602CH |
| Akebono ProACT | ACT1602 |
| Power Stop (Z16) | 16-1602 |
| Akebono | ASP1602 |
| Bendix | D1602 |
| Monroe | CX1602 |
| Bosch | BE1602H |
| Dura International | BP1602C |
| Bosch | BE1602 |
Note: Always confirm fitment using resources like the Amazon Part Finder or by consulting your vehicle's owner's manual or a reputable auto parts supplier.
Step-by-Step Replacement Process
Follow these steps carefully to replace your F-150's rear brake pads:
1. Preparation and Safety First
Begin by parking your truck on a level surface. This is essential for the safe operation of your jack and jack stands. Next, engage the parking brake firmly and place wheel chocks behind the front wheels to prevent the vehicle from rolling. If your F-150 has decorative lug nut covers, use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry them off, exposing the lug nuts. Using your lug nut wrench, slightly loosen all six lug nuts on the rear wheel you'll be working on. Do not remove them completely at this stage. Raise the rear of the truck using your floor jack, positioning it under a strong point of the frame. Once raised to a sufficient height, securely place at least two jack stands under the frame rails or designated support points. Lower the truck slowly onto the jack stands, ensuring it is stable. Working on one side of the vehicle at a time is a good safety practice.
2. Remove the Wheel
With the truck safely supported, fully unscrew and remove the six lug nuts. Keep them in a safe place, perhaps a magnetic tray or a clean rag, so they don't roll away. Grip the rear wheel firmly and pull it straight towards you to remove it from the wheel studs. Set the wheel aside, out of the way.
3. Access the Brake Caliper
You will now see the rear brake assembly, which includes the caliper, bracket, rotor, and suspension components. The brake caliper is what applies pressure to the brake pads. It is held in place against the caliper bracket by two 13mm bolts, typically located on the back side of the caliper assembly. Using your 13mm socket and ratchet, loosen these two bolts by turning them clockwise (when viewed from the outside of the vehicle). Once loosened, remove the bolts completely and set them aside with the lug nuts.
4. Remove the Brake Caliper and Old Pads
With the caliper bolts removed, you can now carefully pull the rear brake caliper away from the caliper bracket and off the old brake pads. It might require a gentle wiggle. Crucially, do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose. This can damage the hose. Instead, secure the caliper by resting it on the suspension components or, preferably, suspending it from the coil spring or another sturdy part of the suspension using a bungee cord or a piece of rope. This prevents stress on the brake line.
Next, remove the old inner and outer brake pads from the caliper bracket. They usually just slide out. If your new brake pad set came with new metal pad abutment clips (also known as "anti-rattle" clips), carefully pry out the old ones from the top and bottom slots of the caliper bracket before installing the new ones. These clips help reduce noise and ensure proper pad movement.
5. Clean Brake Components
This is an excellent opportunity to clean your brake components. Spray the brake rotor, caliper bracket, caliper assembly, and wheel studs with brake parts cleaner. This will remove brake dust, grease, and grime. Important Safety Note: Do not use compressed air or blow on the brake parts with your mouth to clean them. Brake dust contains fine particles that can be harmful, even carcinogenic, if inhaled. Wear a dust mask or respirator when cleaning brake components.
6. Inspect and Service the Rotor
While the caliper is off, inspect the brake rotor. If you notice signs of excessive wear, such as deep grooves, scoring, warping, or a significant lip on the outer edge, you may need to have the rotors "turned" (resurfaced) by a machine shop or, ideally, replace them with new ones. If the truck's rotors appear to be in good condition and this is the first time the rear brakes have been serviced, simply replacing the pads might suffice. If you decide to replace the rotors, you'll typically need to remove the two bolts securing the caliper bracket to the steering knuckle. Then, you can use a rubber mallet to gently tap the old rotor loose from the hub, remove it, and slide the new rotor into place.
7. Lubricate Caliper Slider Pins
For the brake caliper to function smoothly and retract properly, the caliper slider pins must be adequately lubricated. Gently pull each slider pin out of its rubber dust boot. Apply a thin, even layer of brake caliper lubricant (specifically designed for brakes, not general grease) to the metal portion of the pin. Ensure you don't over-lubricate. Push the slider pins back into their respective boots until the rubber boot seats firmly against its metal lip. This lubrication prevents seizing and ensures the caliper can move freely.
8. Compress the Caliper Piston
Before you can install the new, thicker brake pads, the caliper piston needs to be retracted back into the caliper body. Place the back of an old brake pad against the caliper piston. Then, use your "C" or "F" clamp to apply steady, even pressure, pushing the piston back into the caliper. As you compress the piston, the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir will rise. To allow for this fluid movement and make compression easier, twist off the brake fluid reservoir cap (located in the engine bay) counter-clockwise. Keep an eye on the fluid level to prevent overflow; you may need to remove some fluid with a clean syringe if it gets too high. Compress the piston until it is flush with the caliper body or its dust boot. Be careful not to pinch or damage the rubber dust boot during this process. Once compressed, replace the brake fluid reservoir cap promptly, as brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture from the air, which can degrade its performance.
9. Install New Brake Pads
Now, install the new brake pads into the caliper bracket. They should slide in smoothly. Apply a thin layer of brake caliper lubricant to any metal-to-metal contact points. This includes the edges of the brake pads where they slide in the bracket and where the caliper might contact the pad ears. Crucially, do not apply any lubricant to the friction material (the pad surface) or the rotor. This will severely compromise your braking performance.
10. Reassemble the Caliper
Carefully lower the brake caliper back over the newly installed pads and onto the caliper bracket. If the caliper feels tight and won't easily slide over the pads, you may need to compress the caliper piston a little further. Once the caliper is in position, insert the two 13mm caliper bolts. Start threading them by hand for a few turns to ensure they don't cross-thread. Once hand-tight, use your 13mm socket and ratchet to tighten them. The recommended torque specification for these bolts is typically around 24-25 ft-lbs (or 32 Nm). If you don't have a torque wrench, tighten them until snug, but avoid over-tightening, which could strip the threads.
11. Reinstall the Wheel and Final Checks
Place the rear wheel back onto the wheel studs. Thread the six lug nuts back on by hand until they are snug. This helps prevent cross-threading. Use your lug nut wrench to slightly tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern. Now, carefully use your floor jack to raise the truck off the jack stands. Once the wheel has enough weight on it to prevent it from spinning freely, use the lug nut wrench to tighten the lug nuts firmly. Again, tighten them in a star pattern to ensure even pressure. Lower the truck completely to the ground.
12. Bed-In Your New Brake Pads
After completing the replacement, it's essential to "bed-in" the new brake pads. This process properly seats the pads against the rotors, ensuring optimal performance and preventing noise. To do this, find a safe, open area. Perform 5-10 moderate stops from about 30-40 mph down to 10 mph, without coming to a complete halt. Avoid hard braking during this initial period. After these stops, drive for a few minutes without braking heavily to allow the brakes to cool. Refer to the brake pad manufacturer's specific bedding-in instructions for the best results.
Common Issues and Frequently Asked Questions
Q1: My brake pedal feels soft or spongy after replacing the pads. What could be wrong?
A1: A soft or spongy brake pedal often indicates air in the brake lines or contaminated brake fluid. If you suspect air, you'll need to bleed your brake system. If the fluid looks dark or murky, it may be contaminated with moisture and should be flushed and replaced with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. Refer to specific guides on brake bleeding if needed.
Q2: Do I need to replace my brake rotors when I replace the pads?
A2: Not always. Inspect your rotors for excessive wear, scoring, or warping. If they are relatively smooth and have sufficient thickness, you can often just replace the pads. However, if you notice any significant damage or if the braking performance has been poor, replacing the rotors along with the pads is recommended for optimal safety and performance.
Q3: How often should I replace my rear brake pads?
A3: The lifespan of brake pads varies greatly depending on driving habits, vehicle load, and the type of pads used. A general guideline is to inspect them every 10,000-15,000 miles and replace them when the pad material wears down to about 3mm (1/8 inch) thickness or when you hear squealing or grinding noises.
Q4: Can I use a different type of lubricant on the slider pins?
A4: It's strongly recommended to use only brake caliper lubricant or silicone-based brake grease on the slider pins and caliper contact points. These lubricants are designed to withstand high temperatures and the chemical environment of the braking system. Regular grease can break down, attract dirt, and potentially damage the rubber boots or cause the pins to seize.
Q5: What torque should I use for the caliper bolts?
A5: The typical torque specification for the rear caliper bracket bolts on a 12th Gen F-150 is around 24-25 ft-lbs (32 Nm). Always consult your vehicle's service manual for the precise torque specifications to ensure proper and safe installation.
Conclusion
Replacing the rear brake pads on your Ford F-150 is a manageable task for most DIY enthusiasts. By following these detailed steps, using the correct tools and parts, and prioritizing safety, you can successfully complete this maintenance job, ensuring your truck remains safe and reliable on the road. Remember to always consult your vehicle's specific service manual for any variations or additional recommendations.
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