08/02/2019
Maintaining your vehicle’s braking system is paramount for safety, and for many Nissan Navara owners, the thought of replacing brake pads can seem daunting. However, undertaking this task yourself can lead to significant cost savings compared to a garage visit, and it provides a deeper understanding of your vehicle. This comprehensive guide will walk you through the process of changing your Nissan Navara’s brake pads and properly bleeding the brake lines, ensuring your pick-up remains safe and responsive on the road. With the right tools and a methodical approach, you'll be surprised at how straightforward this essential maintenance can be.
Essential Tools and Parts for the Job
Before you begin, gathering all the necessary tools and parts will make the process much smoother and prevent unnecessary delays. Here’s what you’ll need:
- A comprehensive socket set (including sizes 14mm for the caliper bolts and appropriate sizes for wheel nuts).
- A reliable car jack and, crucially, a set of sturdy axle stands for safety. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- A C-clamp (or a dedicated brake piston compression tool) to retract the caliper piston.
- Brand new, high-quality brake pads specifically for your Nissan Navara model.
- Brake fluid (ensure it matches the DOT specification recommended for your Navara, typically DOT3 or DOT4).
- A bleed kit or clear tubing and a suitable container for catching old brake fluid.
- Protective gloves (nitrile or latex are recommended).
- Wire brush and brake cleaner for cleaning components.
- A screwdriver (flathead) for prying if needed.
- Optional: WD-40 or a penetrating oil for seized bolts, and high-temperature brake grease.
Step-by-Step Guide to Replacing Your Brake Pads
Preparation and Lifting the Vehicle
Safety is paramount when working on your vehicle. Park your Nissan Navara on a flat, level surface and engage the parking brake. For manual transmissions, leave it in gear; for automatics, ensure it's in 'Park'.
- Loosen the Wheel Nuts: Before jacking up the vehicle, use your socket set to slightly loosen the wheel nuts on the wheel you’re working on. Turn them counter-clockwise approximately a quarter to half turn. This is much easier to do while the wheel is still on the ground.
- Jack Up and Secure the Vehicle: Position your car jack under a sturdy jacking point on the chassis near the wheel you’re replacing the pads on. Lift the vehicle until the tyre is clear of the ground. Immediately place axle stands under the designated support points and lower the vehicle onto them. This is a critical safety step; never rely solely on the jack.
- Remove the Tyre: Once the vehicle is safely supported, fully remove the loosened wheel nuts and carefully take off the tyre. For an added layer of safety, slide the removed tyre under the chassis of the vehicle, near the axle stand. This provides an additional buffer should the vehicle somehow slip. Keep the wheel nuts in a safe, easily accessible place.
Accessing and Removing Old Brake Pads
With the wheel off, you’ll have clear access to the brake caliper assembly.
- Loosen the Rear Caliper Bolt: The brake caliper houses the brake pads and piston, applying pressure to the rotor to slow or stop the vehicle. Locate the lower caliper slider bolt, typically a 14mm bolt. Using your socket set, loosen and remove this bolt. Some calipers may have two bolts (upper and lower), in which case you'll need to remove both.
- Pivot or Remove the Caliper Body: Once the bolt is removed, the caliper body should pivot upwards, or in some designs, be fully removable. If it feels stiff or stuck due to rust or grime, a little WD-40 applied to the pivot points can help. You might need to gently pry it with a flathead screwdriver to get it moving. Be careful not to damage the brake hose.
- Remove the Old Brake Pads: The old brake pads will now be exposed, typically held in place by metal clips or a spring. Carefully slide or pull them out. Pay attention to how they are oriented, as new pads will need to be installed in the same manner. Safety Note: Brake dust can contain harmful particles, and the old pads/caliper components can be greasy or have sharp edges. Always wear gloves during this step and consider using a brake cleaner to remove accumulated dust, being mindful of overspray.
Piston Compression and New Pad Installation
New brake pads are thicker than worn ones, so the caliper piston will need to be retracted to accommodate them.
- Compress the Caliper Piston: This is where your C-clamp comes in. Place one jaw of the C-clamp against the face of the caliper piston and the other jaw against the outer part of the caliper body (or the old brake pad if it’s still in place). Slowly tighten the C-clamp, pushing the piston back into its bore. As you do this, brake fluid will be pushed back into the reservoir under the bonnet. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir to ensure it doesn't overflow. If it's near full, you may need to remove a small amount of fluid using a syringe before compressing the piston.
- Clean the Piston and Caliper (Optional but Recommended): While the piston is retracted, it’s an excellent opportunity to clean any dirt or rust from the piston face and the caliper bore. A wire brush and brake cleaner work well here. Ensure no debris falls into the caliper.
- Install the New Pads: Carefully slide the new brake pads into the pad clips or caliper bracket, ensuring they are seated correctly. Many pad sets come with new hardware (clips); it’s always best to use these for optimal performance and to prevent squealing. Apply a thin layer of high-temperature brake grease to the contact points between the pads and the clips/caliper bracket, but never on the pad friction material itself.
Reassembly and Final Checks
With the new pads in place, it’s time to reassemble the caliper.
- Re-position the Caliper Body: Carefully lower or pivot the caliper body back over the new brake pads and rotor. This can sometimes be a bit tricky due to the new pads' thickness. You might need to gently wiggle or shake the caliper to align it correctly over the pads and the mounting bracket. Ensure the slider pins are clean and move freely.
- Tighten the Caliper Bolt(s): Reinsert the caliper bolt(s). Start by hand-tightening them to ensure they thread correctly and prevent cross-threading. Once finger-tight, use your socket set to tighten them securely. Refer to your Navara's service manual for the exact torque specifications, as over-tightening or under-tightening can lead to issues.
- Double-Check Everything: Before replacing the wheel, visually inspect all components. Ensure the pads are seated correctly, the caliper bolts are tightened, and the brake line isn't twisted or pinched.
The Crucial Step: Bleeding the Brake Lines
After replacing brake pads, especially if you compressed the piston or opened the brake system at all, it's vital to bleed the brake lines. Air can enter the system, leading to a "spongy" brake pedal and significantly reduced braking efficiency. This step is non-negotiable for safety.
Why Bleed Your Brakes?
Brake fluid is incompressible, allowing the force from your brake pedal to be transmitted directly to the calipers. Air, however, is compressible. If air bubbles are present in the brake lines, pressing the pedal will first compress this air before applying pressure to the pads, resulting in a soft, unresponsive pedal feel and compromised stopping power. Bleeding removes these air bubbles and replaces old, potentially contaminated fluid with fresh fluid.
Preparation for Bleeding
Before you start, ensure you have plenty of new brake fluid. Locate the brake fluid reservoir under the bonnet, typically on the driver's side. Wipe down the cap to prevent dirt from entering, then carefully remove it. Just rest the cap loosely on top, or leave it off entirely, to allow air to enter the reservoir as fluid is drawn out.
Bleeding Procedure (Two-Person Method Recommended)
The two-person method is generally the easiest and most effective. One person operates the brake pedal, and the other manages the bleed screw.
- Connect Bleed Line: Attach a clear plastic tube to the bleed nipple on the caliper you've just worked on. Place the other end of the tube into a clear container, ensuring the end of the tube is submerged in a small amount of fresh brake fluid. This prevents air from being drawn back into the system.
- Initial Pedal Pumps: Have your assistant slowly pump the brake pedal 5-6 times, building pressure. They should then hold the pedal firmly to the floor.
- Open Bleed Screw: While the pedal is held down, you, at the caliper, should quickly open the bleed screw about a quarter to half a turn. You will see old fluid and potentially air bubbles escape into the clear tube.
- Close Bleed Screw: As soon as the flow of fluid stops or slows significantly, immediately close the bleed screw. Crucially, ensure the screw is closed *before* your assistant releases the brake pedal. If they release the pedal while the screw is open, air will be sucked back into the system.
- Repeat and Monitor: Have your assistant slowly release the brake pedal. Wait a few seconds, then repeat steps 2-4. Continue this process until no more air bubbles are visible in the clear tube and the fluid coming out is clean and clear (matching the new fluid you're putting in).
- Monitor Reservoir Level: Frequently check the brake fluid reservoir under the bonnet. As you bleed, the level will drop. Top it up with new fluid whenever it gets close to the 'MIN' line. Never let the reservoir run dry, as this will introduce more air into the system.
- Finalise Bleeding: Once satisfied that the system is free of air and the fluid is clean, firmly close the bleed screw and wipe away any spilled fluid. Replace the rubber cap on the bleed nipple.
Bleeding Other Wheels
It's generally recommended to bleed the brakes starting from the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and working your way to the closest. For most Nissan Navaras, this order is usually: rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, front driver. Repeat the entire bleeding procedure for each wheel.
Post-Installation Test Drive and Bedding In
Once all wheels are reassembled and the brake system is bled, it’s time for a critical test drive. Before driving, pump the brake pedal several times until it feels firm. It may feel soft initially due to the piston needing to extend and seat against the new pads. Do not drive until the pedal feels firm.
When you do drive, choose a safe, quiet area away from heavy traffic. Start with gentle braking at low speeds. The new pads will need to "bed in" or "break in" with the rotors. This process helps the pad material conform to the rotor surface for optimal performance. Follow the pad manufacturer's recommendations for bedding in, but a common procedure involves 10-15 moderate stops from 30-40 mph (approx. 50-65 km/h) without coming to a complete stop, allowing the brakes to cool slightly between each stop. Avoid harsh braking or sustained heavy braking immediately after installation.
If, after this initial test drive and bedding-in period, the brake pedal still feels spongy, or has excessive travel before the brakes engage, it's a strong indication that there's still air in the system. In this case, you will need to inspect and re-bleed your brake lines.
Comparative Analysis: DIY vs. Professional Brake Service
Deciding whether to tackle your Nissan Navara's brake pad replacement yourself or take it to a professional garage involves weighing several factors:
| Feature | DIY Brake Pad Replacement | Professional Brake Service |
|---|---|---|
| Cost Savings | Significant, only pay for parts and consumables. | Higher, includes labour, parts markup, and shop overheads. |
| Time Commitment | Can take several hours, especially for first-timers or if issues arise. | Typically quicker for you, as the garage handles it. |
| Tools Required | Requires specific tools (sockets, jack, stands, C-clamp, bleed kit). Initial investment if you don't own them. | No tools required from your end. |
| Expertise Level | Requires careful attention to detail, adherence to safety, and understanding of mechanics. Learning curve involved. | Performed by trained technicians with specialised knowledge and equipment. |
| Learning & Satisfaction | Great opportunity to learn about your vehicle and gain a sense of accomplishment. | Convenient, but less personal involvement or learning. |
| Warranty & Liability | No warranty on your labour. Any issues are your responsibility. | Typically comes with a warranty on parts and labour. Garage is liable for proper installation. |
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Q: Do I need to clean the pistons before changing brake pads?
A: While not strictly mandatory every time, it is highly recommended. Cleaning the caliper pistons and the area around them with a wire brush and brake cleaner removes accumulated dirt, rust, and old brake dust. This ensures the piston retracts smoothly and fully, and helps prevent future sticking issues, contributing to even pad wear and optimal braking performance.
A: Brake pad lifespan varies significantly depending on driving habits, vehicle load, and the type of pads. Generally, front pads might last 30,000-50,000 miles, while rear pads can last longer, often 60,000-80,000 miles or more. Listen for squealing or grinding noises, feel for vibrations or a soft pedal, and visually inspect pad thickness. Most pads have wear indicators that will make a noise when they are low.
Q: What should I do if my brake pedal feels spongy after replacing the pads?
A: A spongy brake pedal almost always indicates air in the brake lines. You will need to re-bleed the brake system thoroughly. Ensure the brake fluid reservoir never runs dry during bleeding, and follow the bleeding procedure carefully, ensuring the bleed screw is closed *before* the pedal is released. If the problem persists, there might be a leak in the system or an issue with the master cylinder, which would require professional diagnosis.
Q: Can I just replace one set of brake pads (e.g., only the front)?
A: Yes, you can. Brake pads wear independently, with front pads typically wearing faster due to bearing the brunt of stopping force. However, always replace pads in pairs across an axle (e.g., both front left and front right, or both rear left and rear right) to ensure even braking performance and prevent pulling to one side.
By following this detailed guide, you've not only saved money but also gained valuable experience in maintaining your Nissan Navara. Remember, proper brake maintenance is crucial for your safety and the longevity of your vehicle. Drive safely!
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