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Restore Your Alloys: Corrosion Repair Guide

24/03/2018

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The Battle Against Alloy Wheel Corrosion: A Comprehensive Repair Guide

Alloy wheels, a staple of modern automotive aesthetics, offer a sleek and stylish upgrade over traditional steel wheels. However, their beauty is often challenged by the persistent menace of corrosion. This insidious enemy can degrade not only the visual appeal of your wheels but, if left unchecked, can compromise their structural integrity. Fortunately, with the right knowledge and a bit of elbow grease, you can effectively combat alloy wheel corrosion and restore your wheels to their former glory. This guide will walk you through the causes, consequences, and, most importantly, the step-by-step process of repairing corrosion on your alloy wheels.

What is alloy wheel refurbishment?
Whether you are looking to add value to your vehicle, change its appearance or you simply need to repair accidental damage, alloy wheel refurbishment is the cost-effective way to improve the look and safety of your vehicle. You bring your wheels only (off the car, without tyres). This service includes full factory refurbishment.

Understanding Alloy Wheel Corrosion: The Root Causes

Before diving into the repair process, it's crucial to understand what causes alloy wheels to corrode. Unlike painted steel wheels, alloy wheels are typically coated with a protective clear lacquer. This lacquer acts as a barrier, shielding the aluminium alloy beneath from the elements. However, this protection isn't infallible. Several factors can lead to the breakdown of this protective layer:

  • Road Salt: During winter months, road salt (sodium chloride or calcium chloride) is liberally applied to combat ice. This salt is highly corrosive and can quickly penetrate any microscopic imperfections in the lacquer, attacking the underlying aluminium.
  • Brake Dust: The fine metallic particles from brake pad wear, known as brake dust, can accumulate on the wheel surface. When mixed with moisture and heat, brake dust can become acidic and etch into the lacquer and even the alloy itself.
  • Harsh Cleaning Chemicals: Aggressive wheel cleaners, especially those not specifically designed for alloy wheels, can strip away the protective lacquer, leaving the alloy exposed. Acids and strong alkaline solutions are particularly damaging.
  • Potholes and Kerb Damage: Physical impacts, such as hitting potholes or scraping against kerbs, can chip or scratch the lacquer. These breaches in the protective coating provide an entry point for moisture and corrosive substances.
  • Environmental Factors: Prolonged exposure to moisture, humidity, and industrial fallout can also contribute to the degradation of the lacquer over time.

The Consequences of Neglected Corrosion

Ignoring minor corrosion can lead to more significant and costly problems down the line. Here's why it's important to address alloy wheel corrosion promptly:

  • Aesthetic Degradation: The most obvious consequence is the unsightly appearance. White powdery residue, discolouration, and pitting significantly detract from your vehicle's overall look.
  • Compromised Structural Integrity: In severe cases, corrosion can eat away at the aluminium alloy itself, creating pits and weakening the wheel. This can be a serious safety concern, especially if the corrosion affects critical areas of the wheel.
  • Tyre Seal Issues: Corrosion around the bead seat area (where the tyre seals against the rim) can lead to slow air leaks, affecting tyre pressure and potentially causing safety issues.
  • Reduced Resale Value: Damaged and corroded alloy wheels will significantly lower the resale value of your vehicle.

DIY Alloy Wheel Corrosion Repair: A Step-by-Step Guide

Repairing alloy wheel corrosion is a manageable DIY project, provided you have the right tools and patience. The process involves removing the damaged lacquer and corrosion, preparing the surface, and then reapplying a protective finish.

Tools and Materials You'll Need:

  • Wheel cleaner (acid-free)
  • Degreaser
  • Various grits of sandpaper (e.g., 400, 800, 1500, 2000)
  • Rubbing compound/polishing compound
  • Fine steel wool (0000 grade)
  • Masking tape
  • Primer (suitable for aluminium)
  • Clear lacquer (suitable for alloys)
  • Grey primer (optional, for filling minor imperfections)
  • Microfibre cloths
  • Gloves and eye protection
  • Bucket and water
  • Optional: A rotary tool with polishing and sanding attachments

The Repair Process:

  1. Preparation and Cleaning:
    • Remove the wheels from your vehicle. This allows for easier and more thorough access.
    • Thoroughly clean the wheels using an acid-free wheel cleaner and water. Rinse well and allow them to dry completely.
    • Use a degreaser to remove any remaining grease or contaminants.
  2. Assess the Damage:
    • Carefully inspect the extent of the corrosion. Minor pitting and white powdery residue are common. Deeper pitting or flaking might require more intensive work.
  3. Removing the Old Lacquer and Corrosion:
    • Begin by gently sanding the corroded areas with a medium-grit sandpaper (around 400 grit). The aim here is to remove the corroded aluminium and the damaged lacquer. Work in a consistent direction.
    • Progress to finer grits of sandpaper (800, then 1500 grit). This step is crucial for smoothing out the surface and removing sanding marks from the previous stage. You can use wet sanding (with water) for a smoother finish and to reduce dust.
    • For stubborn corrosion or if you have a rotary tool, a polishing compound or fine steel wool (0000 grade) can be used to gently polish the affected areas and remove any remaining oxidation. Be gentle; the goal is to remove the corrosion, not the metal.
    • Wipe down the wheel with a clean microfibre cloth after each sanding or polishing stage to remove debris.
  4. Surface Preparation for Painting:
    • Once you've removed all traces of corrosion and the surface is smooth, clean the wheel again thoroughly with degreaser and a clean microfibre cloth. Ensure there is no dust or residue.
    • Mask off the tyre and any parts of the brake caliper or car bodywork you don't want to spray using masking tape and paper.
  5. Applying Primer:
    • If there are any minor imperfections or pitting that you wish to fill, you can apply a thin layer of grey primer and allow it to dry. Once dry, lightly sand it with very fine grit sandpaper (2000 grit) to create a smooth surface.
    • Apply a light, even coat of aluminium-compatible primer. Allow it to flash off (dry to a tacky state) according to the manufacturer's instructions before applying a second, slightly heavier coat. Allow the primer to dry completely.
  6. Applying Clear Lacquer:
    • Shake the clear lacquer can vigorously for the recommended time.
    • Apply several thin, even coats of clear lacquer, allowing adequate drying time between each coat as per the manufacturer's instructions. Over-application in a single coat can lead to runs and drips.
    • Ensure complete coverage, paying attention to edges and crevices.
  7. Curing and Finishing:
    • Allow the clear lacquer to cure fully. This can take anywhere from 24 hours to several days, depending on the product and environmental conditions. Avoid driving the car or getting the wheels wet during this period.
    • Once cured, you can optionally use a fine polishing compound and a clean microfibre cloth to bring out the shine and remove any minor imperfections in the lacquer.
    • Reinstall the wheels, ensuring all lug nuts are tightened to the manufacturer's specified torque.

Maintaining Your Refurbished Alloy Wheels

To keep your newly repaired alloy wheels looking their best and to prevent future corrosion, follow these maintenance tips:

  • Regular Cleaning: Wash your wheels regularly with a pH-neutral wheel cleaner and plenty of water. Avoid abrasive brushes or harsh chemicals.
  • Avoid High-Pressure Washers: While convenient, high-pressure washers can force water and contaminants into tiny imperfections in the lacquer, potentially accelerating corrosion. If you use one, keep a safe distance.
  • Rinse After Exposure to Salt: If you drive in areas where road salt is used, rinse your wheels thoroughly with plain water after your journey, especially if you can't give them a full wash.
  • Be Cautious with Kerbs: Develop good parking habits to avoid scraping your wheels against kerbs.
  • Inspect Regularly: Periodically check your wheels for any signs of new damage or the early stages of corrosion. Addressing small issues early can prevent major problems.

When to Call in the Professionals

While DIY repair is feasible for minor to moderate corrosion, some situations may warrant professional intervention:

  • Severe Pitting or Damage: If the corrosion is deep, has caused significant pitting, or if the wheel has structural damage (cracks, bends), it's best to consult a professional wheel repair specialist.
  • Diamond Cut Wheels: Wheels with a diamond cut or machined finish are more complex to repair. These often require specialised machinery and expertise to restore the finish correctly. DIY attempts can easily ruin the finish.
  • Lack of Time or Confidence: If you're short on time, lack the necessary tools, or simply don't feel confident undertaking the repair yourself, a professional refurbishment service is a worthwhile investment.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Q1: How long does alloy wheel corrosion repair take?

A: A DIY repair can take several hours to a full day, depending on the extent of the corrosion and drying times. Professional refurbishment typically takes 1-3 days.

What are people saying about auto repair services in Bend?
What are people saying about auto repair services in Bend, OR? "If you are looking for a quality service center for your European vehicle, I highly recommend Peak Euro in Bend. They service most European vehicles and have a reliable and friendly service staff to meet your most demanding needs.

Q2: Can I use regular paint instead of clear lacquer?

A: It's not recommended. Clear lacquer is specifically designed to provide a durable, weather-resistant finish that protects the alloy. Regular paint may not offer the same level of protection and could peel or chip easily.

Q3: Will sanding damage my alloy wheels?

A: Sanding, if done too aggressively or with the wrong grit, can remove too much material or leave deep scratches. Always start with a coarser grit to remove corrosion and progress to finer grits to smooth the surface. Use a light touch.

Q4: What's the difference between corrosion and curb rash?

A: Corrosion is a chemical reaction that degrades the metal, often appearing as white powder or pitting. Curb rash is physical damage caused by scraping against a kerb, resulting in scratches, gouges, or chunks missing from the wheel's edge.

How do you fix a cracked alloy wheel?
For minor cracks, it may be possible to repair the wheel by filling the damaged area with a special epoxy compound. This can then be sanded, primed, and painted to match the other wheels. If the damage is more severe, the alloy wheel may need to be replaced. What Causes Alloy Wheels to Crack? Alloy wheels can crack due to a variety of factors.

Q5: Is it safe to drive with corroded alloy wheels?

A: Minor cosmetic corrosion is generally safe, but it will worsen over time. Severe corrosion that affects the structural integrity of the wheel can be a safety hazard. It's always best to repair any significant corrosion.

By understanding the causes and following these repair and maintenance steps, you can effectively combat alloy wheel corrosion and keep your vehicle looking sharp and your wheels performing reliably for years to come. Remember, a little preventative care goes a long way in preserving the aesthetic and structural integrity of your valuable alloy wheels.

If you want to read more articles similar to Restore Your Alloys: Corrosion Repair Guide, you can visit the Wheels category.

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