02/12/2016
It can be incredibly frustrating when your car fails its MOT, especially when the explanation from the tester isn't as clear as you'd like. If you're faced with a fail notice stating "Steering track rod/end, movement excessive" on both sides, don't panic. This is a common issue that, with a bit of understanding, you can often tackle yourself. This guide will walk you through what a worn track rod means, how to identify the problem, and what parts you'll likely need to get your vehicle back to roadworthy condition.

Understanding the Track Rod System
Before diving into the signs of wear, it's essential to understand what the track rod system does. In essence, the track rods (also known as tie rods) are crucial components of your car's steering system. They connect the steering rack to the steering arms on the wheel hubs. When you turn the steering wheel, the steering rack moves, pushing or pulling the track rods, which in turn pivot the front wheels to steer the car. The system typically consists of an inner track rod and an outer track rod end (or ball joint). These components work together to translate the driver's steering input into directional changes for the wheels. Precision in this system is paramount for safe and accurate steering.
Signs of a Worn Track Rod
A worn track rod or track rod end can manifest in several ways, often impacting the feel and performance of your steering. The MOT failure notice specifically mentions "movement excessive," which is a direct indicator of play or looseness in the system. Here are the common signs to look out for:
- Loose or Wandering Steering: If your steering feels vague, imprecise, or if the car tends to wander from side to side, especially on the motorway, this could indicate worn track rods. You might find yourself making constant small corrections to keep the car travelling in a straight line.
- Uneven Tyre Wear: Excessive play in the track rods can cause the wheels to be slightly out of alignment, leading to premature and uneven tyre wear. You might notice feathering or scalloping on the tyre tread.
- Knocking or Clunking Noises: As you turn the steering wheel, particularly at low speeds or when manoeuvring, you might hear knocking or clunking sounds. These noises often occur when the worn components shift under load.
- Vibration Through the Steering Wheel: While less common, significant wear can sometimes lead to vibrations felt through the steering wheel, especially when driving at speed.
- Steering Wheel Off-Centre: If your steering wheel is not centred when the car is travelling in a straight line, and this wasn't an issue before, it could be a symptom of a steering component problem, including the track rods.
How to Check for Excessive Movement (DIY)
The MOT tester would have physically checked for this movement. You can perform a similar check yourself, although it requires a bit of care. With the car safely supported on jack stands and the wheels off the ground, you can try to move the track rod assembly. Grab the track rod end (the part that connects to the steering knuckle) and try to wiggle it up and down and side to side. Any noticeable play or looseness, beyond what's expected for the normal articulation of the ball joint, indicates wear. You can also try to grip the track rod itself and attempt to twist it; excessive rotational play suggests wear in the inner track rod joint.
It's important to remember that the outer track rod ends are designed to be replaced as individual units. The inner track rod, however, is a more substantial part of the steering linkage and is usually replaced as a complete unit or in conjunction with the outer ends, depending on the vehicle and the nature of the wear.
What Parts Do You Need?
This is where the specifics of your car come into play. The MOT failure states "Steering track rod/end, movement excessive" on both sides. This generally implies that the outer track rod ends are worn. These are the most common wear items in the track rod system due to their articulated ball joint design.
Do you need just the outer ends?
In most cases, yes. The outer track rod ends are designed as replaceable wear items. If the MOT tester identified movement on both sides, it is highly probable that you will need to replace both the left and right outer track rod ends.
Does it need both the inner rod and outer ends?
This is less common but possible. If the inner track rod joint has also developed excessive play, or if the entire track rod assembly is corroded or damaged, then you might need to replace the inner rod as well. Sometimes, manufacturers sell the track rod as a complete assembly, including both the inner and outer ends, as a single part. It's crucial to consult your vehicle's specific parts catalogue or a reputable parts supplier to determine the correct part numbers and whether the inner rods are typically replaced separately or as part of a larger assembly.
Identifying the Correct Parts
To ensure you buy the correct parts, you'll need your vehicle's registration number or its exact make, model, and year. Websites for automotive parts suppliers will allow you to input this information and will then list compatible parts. Look for "track rod end" or "tie rod end" for the outer components. If you suspect the inner rods also need replacing, you'll be looking for "track rod" or "tie rod," which might be sold as a complete unit with the outer end already attached, or as a separate inner joint.
Table of Common Steering Components and Their Functions
| Component | Function | Common Wear Symptoms |
|---|---|---|
| Track Rod End (Outer) | Connects track rod to steering knuckle, allowing for wheel articulation. | Loose steering, knocking noises, uneven tyre wear. |
| Track Rod (Inner) | Connects steering rack to the outer track rod end. | Can cause similar symptoms to outer ends if the internal joint wears. |
| Steering Rack | Translates rotational steering wheel movement into linear motion to move the track rods. | Leaking fluid, stiff steering, knocking from the rack itself. |
| Ball Joint (Suspension) | Allows suspension and steering components to move freely. | Clunking noises, loose steering, uneven tyre wear. |
The Replacement Process (Overview)
Replacing track rod ends is a task that many DIY mechanics can undertake, but it requires careful execution and specific tools. Here's a simplified overview:
- Safety First: Ensure the car is securely supported on jack stands.
- Remove Wheel: Take off the wheel on the affected side.
- Loosen Locknut: There's usually a locknut that secures the track rod end to the steering arm. Loosen this.
- Disconnect Track Rod End: Use a ball joint separator tool (or sometimes a pickle fork, though this can damage the boot) to disconnect the track rod end from the steering knuckle.
- Unscrew Old End: Unscrew the old track rod end from the track rod. Make a note of how many turns it takes to remove it, as this will help with the initial alignment.
- Install New End: Screw the new track rod end onto the track rod. Adjust it so it's roughly the same length as the old one.
- Reconnect: Reconnect the new track rod end to the steering knuckle and secure it with the new nut.
- Tighten: Tighten the locknut securely.
- Repeat: Repeat for the other side.
- Wheel Alignment:Crucially, after replacing track rod ends, you MUST get a professional wheel alignment. Incorrect alignment will cause poor handling, rapid tyre wear, and can even make the car unsafe to drive.
Important Note: While you can replace the outer ends yourself, if the inner track rods are also worn, the process becomes more involved, potentially requiring removal of the steering rack or significant adjustment of the inner joint's position.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q1: Is it safe to drive with worn track rods?
A1: No, it is not safe to drive with excessively worn track rods. The looseness can lead to a loss of steering control, especially during braking or cornering, and will cause rapid tyre wear. You should address this issue promptly.
Q2: Can I just replace one track rod end?
A2: While you can replace just one, it's generally recommended to replace both sides simultaneously, especially if the MOT failure indicates issues on both. This ensures even wear and consistent steering feel. If one side is worn, the other is likely not far behind.
Q3: How much does it cost to replace track rod ends?
A3: The cost varies depending on the vehicle and whether you do it yourself or have a garage do it. For parts alone, outer track rod ends typically range from £20 to £60 per side. Professional replacement, including labour and a wheel alignment, could cost anywhere from £100 to £300 or more.
Q4: What is the difference between a track rod and a tie rod?
A4: "Track rod" and "tie rod" are often used interchangeably to refer to the same component in the steering system. They both connect the steering rack to the steering arm on the wheel hub.
Q5: Will replacing track rod ends fix my MOT failure?
A5: Yes, if the MOT failure was specifically due to excessive movement in the track rod ends, replacing them and ensuring they are correctly fitted should resolve that particular failure. However, a re-test will be necessary.
Addressing a "movement excessive" fail on your track rods is a manageable task for many car owners. By understanding the system, identifying the symptoms, and knowing which parts are likely required, you can confidently tackle this repair and ensure your car passes its MOT and, more importantly, remains safe on the road. Remember, safety is paramount, and a professional wheel alignment after replacement is a non-negotiable step.
If you want to read more articles similar to Worn Track Rods: Signs and Replacement, you can visit the Automotive category.
