Dinas Mot: A Climber's Guide

Nestled in the dramatic landscape of the Llanberis Pass, Dinas Mot stands as a testament to the enduring allure of Welsh mountain cragging. While its neighbours, Dinas Cromlech and Carreg Wastad, may bask more readily in the sun, Dinas Mot possesses an intrinsic quality that draws climbers from far and wide. Its rock, sculpted by time and the elements, offers a compelling canvas of slabs, cracks, and grooves that promise a truly sublime experience. This article delves into the heart of Dinas Mot, exploring its storied past, the nature of its climbing, essential logistical information, and what makes it a must-visit destination for any serious climber.

A Rich Tapestry of Climbing History

The history of climbing on Dinas Mot is intrinsically linked to the broader narrative of Welsh climbing. The 1930s marked a significant period of exploration, with pioneers like Kirkus and Edwards forging classic lines such as The Direct Route (VS) and Western Slabs (VS). These early ascents set a high standard, and it wasn't until the 1960s that new routes began to rival their quality. Despite a lull during the war and post-war years, with only a few notable exceptions like the 1941 ascent of Lorraine (VS), the 1960s saw a resurgence of activity. Climbers of that era, including Boysen, Ingle, and Crew, added significant routes, with Plexus (E1) emerging as a particularly sought-after challenge.

The subsequent decades continued to witness the addition of new and challenging ascents. The 1970s are perhaps best represented by Super Direct (E1), a testament to the skill of Lancashire climbers R Evans and Hank Pasquill. The 1980s saw Gary Gibson contribute New Austerlitz (E3), a route that, despite its quality, is sometimes overlooked. However, it was in the late 1990s that Dinas Mot truly captured the imagination of the climbing world with Leo Houlding's highly publicised ascent of Trauma (E8). In the same year, Cristian Klemmow added an incredibly difficult route, The Dark Side (E8), on the less-visited western buttress of Ettws Isaf. This route remains unrepeated, and a steep, unclimbed wall nearby beckons adventurous souls.

Understanding the Crag: The Climbing Experience

As one overheard remark suggests, "At least it leans the right way!" This observation highlights a key characteristic of Dinas Mot: its predominantly slabby nature. The Nose Buttress, in particular, features superb-quality rough rhyolite, ideal for traditional climbing. The rock takes gear well, though it's advisable to bring a good selection of small wires. The grades here typically range from HS to E2, offering a rewarding challenge for those proficient in traditional techniques.

The western buttresses, notably the Plexus Buttress, boast fantastic rough rock that bears a resemblance to well-weathered gritstone, a distinct departure from the more common volcanic rock found in many mountain crags. Friction climbing is the order of the day on these faces, and it is crucial to ensure the rock is dry for optimal performance. While the routes are generally slabby, they are also known for their engaging friction moves, demanding precision and confidence.

Most routes on Dinas Mot are multi-pitch, typically spanning 2 to 4 pitches. Abseil descents are often required, and descending Western Gully from the top of The Nose can be an adventure in itself, particularly when wet. The quality of the rock and the adventurous nature of the routes make for a memorable climbing experience.

Route Suggestions: Classics and Challenges

Dinas Mot offers a wealth of classic routes that have stood the test of time. Some of the most highly regarded include:

• The Direct Route (VS): An early classic that sets a benchmark for the crag.
• Western Slabs (VS): Another iconic route from the pioneering era.
• Lorraine (VS): A significant ascent from the 1940s.
• Plexus (E1): A must-do route from the 1960s, known for its quality.
• Super Direct (E1): A standout route from the 1970s.
• New Austerlitz (E3): A surprisingly amenable and often overlooked gem.
• Trauma (E8): The famous high-grade challenge that put Dinas Mot on the map for many.
• The Dark Side (E8): An unrepeated testpiece on the western buttress.

Comparative Route Difficulty

To provide a clearer picture of the climbing on Dinas Mot, here's a simplified comparison of some key routes:

Logistics for Your Dinas Mot Adventure

When to Go: Timing Your Visit

Spring, summer, and autumn all offer potential climbing windows on Dinas Mot. However, as with many UK mountain crags, conditions can be unpredictable and chilly. Dinas Mot faces north, meaning it receives limited direct sunlight, primarily only in the early morning and late evening. The western buttresses are particularly susceptible to seepage, remaining damp even in favourable weather.

The good news is that 'The Nose' buttress is an exception. It's considered one of the cleanest and fastest-drying sections of rock in the area. Its position, slightly set back from the main hillside, means it receives less drainage. With just a day or two of dry weather, this area can become perfect for climbing.

Getting There: Access and Parking

Dinas Mot is strategically located midway up the renowned Llanberis Pass, directly opposite Dinas Cromlech. The pass is typically accessed from the A55 North Wales coastal road, via the village of Llanberis. Parking can be a challenge, especially on busy, sunny weekends. The lay-bys near the Cromlech boulders are popular but have limited capacity.

An alternative is to park in the nearby village of Nant Peris and utilise the 'Park and Ride' bus service up The Pass. However, this service has historically been unreliable. Climbers' Club (CC) members have the advantage of parking at their own leisure at the club's well-situated hut, located right in the heart of the Llanberis Pass. Hitchhiking from Nant Peris is also generally quite feasible.

Accommodation Options

For those planning an extended stay, several accommodation options are available:

• Ynys Ettws: A climbing hut specifically for CC members.
• Campsites: Two campsites are conveniently located in Nant Peris, opposite the Vaynol pub.
• Wild Camping: Tolerated near the Cromlech boulders, though official permission may be required.
• Llanberis: Offers a range of bunkhouses and Bed & Breakfasts.
• Pen y Gwryd Hotel: A historic hotel that provides a nostalgic glimpse into the golden age of mountaineering, though it can be expensive.

Essential Gear Checklist

A comprehensive rack is essential for climbing at Dinas Mot, including a full set of cams, wires, slings, and extenders. Twin ropes are recommended, along with a helmet for safety. Don't forget your guidebook for detailed route information, warm clothing suitable for mountain conditions, and all other standard mountain cragging equipment. The walk-in is relatively short (approximately 20 minutes), so you likely won't need to carry extensive bivy gear. Crucially, be aware that there are virtually no bolts or fixed gear on the routes, and some descents necessitate abseiling.

Food and Supplies: Refuelling in Llanberis

The village of Llanberis serves as the primary hub for food and supplies. Pete's Eats is a popular, no-frills cafe known for its hearty breakfasts and generous mugs of tea. For a more refined dining experience, the Caban Cafe is a recommended alternative.

Beyond the Climb: Other Activities

While climbing is undoubtedly the main draw, the surrounding area offers a variety of other activities. Hillwalking is abundant, with Snowdon, the highest peak in Wales, looming directly above the crag. Mountain biking and river kayaking are also popular pursuits. For a change of scenery, the beaches of nearby Anglesey provide a spectacular escape and often offer sunshine when the mountains are shrouded in cloud.

Regarding refreshments, the Vaynol pub in Nant Peris is the only nearby establishment worth mentioning, though it's best described as the pick of a limited bunch rather than an outstanding venue.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you climb Dinas Mot?

Absolutely! Dinas Mot is a highly popular and well-regarded climbing venue with numerous routes suitable for a range of abilities, particularly in the traditional climbing sphere.

What is the best time of year to climb Dinas Mot?

Spring, summer, and autumn are generally the best seasons. However, conditions can vary, and the north-facing aspect means it can be cold. The Nose Buttress is the most reliable area for dry conditions.

What grade of climber is Dinas Mot suitable for?

Dinas Mot offers routes from Moderate (M) to Very Severe (VS) and up to E8. The most popular trad routes fall within the HS to E2 range, making it accessible for intermediate to advanced climbers. However, there are challenges for the elite as well.

What gear do I need for Dinas Mot?

A full trad rack, including a good selection of small wires, twin ropes, a helmet, and appropriate clothing for mountain conditions are essential. Be prepared for abseil descents.

Is there much sun on Dinas Mot?

Dinas Mot faces north, so it receives limited direct sunlight, primarily in the early morning and late evening. The Nose Buttress dries fastest due to its position.

In conclusion, Dinas Mot offers a compelling blend of historical significance, challenging and rewarding climbing, and breathtaking scenery. Whether you're drawn by the allure of its classic lines or the prospect of tackling its more demanding routes, a trip to this iconic Welsh crag promises an unforgettable mountain-cragging experience.