Silence Your Squealing Brakes: A DIY Guide

That piercing, high-pitched squeal every time you touch the brake pedal can be incredibly annoying, not to mention a sign that something isn't quite right with your braking system. While various factors can contribute to brake noise, often the most effective and long-lasting solution is a complete replacement of the brake pads and discs. This detailed guide will walk you through the process of replacing your rear brake components, transforming your noisy ride into a smooth, quiet experience.

Having experienced the incessant squealing from my own rear brakes, I opted for a full replacement rather than attempting to clean and adjust the old components. With new discs and pads ready to go, the task was straightforward, and I'm confident this guide will assist you in achieving quiet, efficient braking for your vehicle.

Safety First: Preparing Your Vehicle

Before you even think about touching a spanner, ensuring your safety and the stability of your vehicle is paramount. Always work on a level, solid surface and follow these crucial preparatory steps:

• Place wheel chocks securely at the front wheels to prevent any movement.
• Engage a gear (third is often convenient as it keeps the gear stick clear of the handbrake lever) to further secure the car.
• Using a 19mm socket and a breaker bar, slacken the rear wheel nuts while the car is still on the ground. This makes them much easier to remove once the car is elevated.
• Carefully jack up the car and place it securely on a set of axle stands. Never rely solely on the jack.
• Release the handbrake. This is crucial for accessing and working on the rear calipers.
• Finally, remove the rear wheels entirely.

Essential Tools for the Job

Having the right tools at hand will make this job significantly smoother and more efficient. Here's a list of what you'll need:

Step-by-Step Rear Brake Disc and Pad Replacement

1. Prepare the Brake System

Begin by opening the bonnet and carefully removing the cap from the brake master cylinder reservoir. This prevents a vacuum from forming and allows the brake fluid level to rise when the caliper piston is retracted, preventing potential damage or fluid overflow later on.

2. De-tension the Handbrake Cable

To safely remove the calipers and allow for piston retraction, you'll need to slacken the handbrake cable. This is typically done from inside the car:

1. Remove the two 20 Torx screws located in the centre console, usually above the handbrake lever.
2. Carefully lift the plastic cover. You don't need to remove it completely, just enough to gain access to the 13mm handbrake adjustment screw underneath.
3. Once you have access, remove the top 13mm locking nut.
4. Then, slacken the remaining 13mm nut as far back as it will go without removing it entirely. This will release tension on the handbrake cable at the caliper.

3. Remove the Caliper and Pads

With the handbrake cable slackened, you can now proceed to remove the caliper and old brake pads:

1. Using pliers, carefully remove the spring from the front of the caliper.
2. Next, remove the small plastic bung from the caliper body. This will expose the 7mm bolts that secure the caliper to the carrier bracket.
3. Using your 7mm allen key, remove these two bolts.
4. Once the bolts are out, lift the caliper back and up to free it from the carrier. Be careful not to put any undue stress on the flexible brake hose. Support the caliper by resting it on a suspension component or using a wire hanger; do not let it hang by the hose.

4. Retract the Brake Piston

Before the caliper can be refitted with new, thicker pads, the piston must be fully retracted into the caliper body:

Use your brake caliper wind-back tool to push and twist the brake piston back into the caliper as far as it will go. Since you've removed the master cylinder cap, this process should be relatively easy. As the piston retracts, the fluid level in the reservoir will rise. Keep an eye on it to ensure it doesn't overflow, as brake fluid can damage paintwork. Once retracted, ensure the caliper is still supported out of the way.

5. Remove the Brake Pads, Carrier, and Disc

Now that the caliper is out of the way, you can remove the remaining components:

1. Remove the old brake pads from the carrier.
2. Next, remove the carrier itself from the hub. This is typically secured by two 13mm bolts.
3. Once the carrier is removed, you'll likely see marks where the old pads were moving. Use a wire brush or an engineer's file to thoroughly clean these surfaces. This is crucial to ensure your new pads can move freely and quietly.
4. Finally, remove the brake disc from the hub. This might be a bit tight, so a few gentle taps with a hammer on the disc face (away from the hub) might be necessary to free it.
5. With the old disc off, ensure that the wheel hub face is immaculately clean and free from any rust, dirt, or debris. Any imperfections here will cause the new disc to sit incorrectly, leading to run-out and potentially more squealing or uneven wear.

6. Install New Components

With everything clean and ready, it's time to install your new components:

1. Fit the new brake disc onto the hub.
2. Replace the carrier, securing it with the two 13mm bolts. Apply some threadlock to these bolts to prevent them from loosening over time. Torque these bolts to 70 NM using your torque wrench.
3. Next, fit the new brake pads. It's important to ensure that the inner pad (the one facing the piston) is the one that has the anti-rattle spring fitted to it.
4. Regarding lubrication, Ford's official stance is often to fit pads dry. However, if you take your car to a Ford garage complaining of squealing brakes, they will often remove, clean, and refit the pads with copper slip (also known as copper grease). While not a lot is needed, applying a small amount where the pad's metal backing plate contacts the carrier can significantly help prevent squealing. Avoid getting any grease on the friction material itself.

7. Reinstall the Caliper and Final Adjustments

The final steps involve reassembling the caliper and adjusting the braking system:

1. Refit the brake caliper to the carrier. Ensure that the flexible brake hose and the handbrake cable are sitting correctly and are not twisted or strained.
2. Secure the caliper with the two 7mm allen bolts. Torque these bolts to 35 NM.
3. Refit the retaining spring to the front of the caliper using your pliers.
4. Now comes the critical part of setting the brake piston's initial position and adjusting the handbrake. Ford's official method involves inserting a 0.7mm feeler blade between the handbrake lever on the caliper and the stop pin on the caliper. With the feeler blade in place, an assistant then adjusts the 13mm handbrake adjustment nut inside the car until the feeler blade can just be freely removed.
5. However, what 99.9% of mechanics do, and a highly effective method, is to pump the brake pedal once both calipers are reinstalled. Press the brake pedal firmly about a dozen times. This action forces the piston back out, clamping the new pads firmly against the disc. After pumping, check that the disc is still free to turn. This method effectively sets the initial pad-to-disc clearance.
6. Repeat all the above steps to replace the discs and pads on the other side of the vehicle.
7. Once both sides are complete, refit the wheels.
8. Adjust the handbrake via the 13mm nut from inside the car, but initially leave it slightly slacker than you would normally prefer. Ensure both rear wheels still turn freely by hand.
9. Lower the car back to the ground and torque the wheel nuts to their specified setting (refer to your vehicle's manual for this, typically around 110-140 NM).
10. Finally, refit the brake master cylinder cap.

Bedding In Your New Brakes

After all the hard work, it's essential to properly bed in your new brakes. This process helps to transfer a layer of friction material from the pads onto the discs, ensuring optimal performance and longevity, and further preventing future squealing. Take your car for a run, performing a series of moderate stops from varying speeds (e.g., 60 mph down to 10 mph, then 40 mph down to 10 mph) without coming to a complete stop each time. Allow the brakes to cool slightly between stops. Avoid heavy braking or emergency stops during this initial period.

Once the brakes are bedded in, return home and make any final adjustments to the handbrake to your personal satisfaction. It should engage firmly but not drag the wheels when released.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Why replace the discs and pads instead of just cleaning them?

While cleaning can sometimes offer a temporary fix for squealing brakes, replacing both the discs and pads ensures you're starting with fresh, unworn components. This eliminates issues like uneven wear patterns on old discs or hardened, contaminated pad material, leading to a more reliable and long-lasting solution, as well as significantly reducing the chance of the squeal returning.

Is copper grease necessary for brake pads?

Ford may advise against it, but in practice, many professional mechanics apply a small amount of copper slip to the metal backing plates of the pads where they contact the caliper carrier. This lubricant helps to dampen vibrations that cause squealing and prevents corrosion, allowing the pads to move freely. The key is to use it sparingly and ensure it never touches the friction material of the pad or the disc surface.

How do I know if my brake piston needs to be wound back or just pushed back?

Most modern rear brake calipers, especially those integrated with a handbrake mechanism, require the piston to be both pushed AND twisted (wound back) to retract it. This is why a dedicated brake caliper wind-back tool is essential. Attempting to just push it back can damage the internal mechanism.

What happens if I don't clean the hub face before fitting the new disc?

Failing to thoroughly clean the wheel hub face before fitting a new disc can lead to serious problems. Any rust, dirt, or debris caught between the hub and the disc will cause the new disc to sit unevenly. This 'run-out' will result in vibrations, uneven pad wear, reduced braking performance, and, yes, often more squealing. A clean, flat mating surface is vital for proper brake operation.

What are the crucial torque settings I need to remember?

Accurate torque is vital for safety and performance. For the steps outlined:

• Carrier bolts (securing carrier to hub): 70 NM (with threadlock).
• Caliper bolts (securing caliper to carrier): 35 NM.
• Wheel nuts: Refer to your vehicle's specific manual, typically between 110-140 NM.

Conclusion

Congratulations! You've successfully tackled the daunting task of replacing your rear brake discs and pads, banishing that irritating squeal for good. This DIY project not only saves you money but also provides invaluable experience and a deep satisfaction in knowing you've restored your vehicle's quiet and safe braking performance. Now, go enjoy a well-deserved cup of tea and admire your handiwork – a job well done!

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