How do I remove the exhaust from my speakers?

Revive Your Audi's Roar: Active Exhaust Speaker Fix

25/06/2007

Rating: 4.67 (4591 votes)

For many Audi enthusiasts, the distinctive rumble and roar of their vehicle's active exhaust system are as much a part of the driving experience as the performance itself. However, it's a frustratingly common issue for these systems, particularly the integrated speakers, to fail over time. The vibrant exhaust note can diminish, or worse, disappear entirely, leaving owners contemplating costly OEM replacements. But what if there was a way to restore that coveted sound without spending thousands? This comprehensive guide delves into the world of Audi's active exhaust, uncovers the root causes of its common failures, and provides a detailed, real-world account of a successful, budget-friendly repair that brought a powerful burble back to an Audi SQ5.

How do I remove the exhaust from my speakers?
Part One - Remove the exhaust from the middle section connection. Part Two - grind open the metal housing of the speakers, removing the support plate also. When they had grinded through the housing a lot of water came out, they said carrying the exhaust is sounds like a coconut there was that much water inside of them.
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What Exactly is Audi Active Exhaust?

The Audi Active Exhaust Sound System is a clever piece of engineering designed to enhance the aural experience, especially for diesel engines, by adding a more pronounced rumble and loudness to the original exhaust note. It's essentially an artificial engine sound system that works in conjunction with the car's existing exhaust setup. At its core, the system comprises one or two stainless steel 'stewpots' – often referred to as sound actuators – which are typically connected to the vehicle's exhaust pipes. Inside these pots are bass speakers, carefully calibrated to generate additional sound frequencies. This innovative approach allows Audi to seriously modify the sound of TDI engines while adhering to strict ecological and noise regulations.

This system, primarily found on TDI models, has been featured across various Audi generations, including the A6, A7, SQ5, and more recently, the SQ7 and SQ8. Beyond Audi, the same 'pots' are also utilised by other manufacturers such as Volkswagen (Golf GTD), Skoda (Kodiaq RS), and Porsche, as well as many other German non-VAG cars. The commonality lies in their manufacturer: Eberspacher. The speakers within these pots are controlled by a dedicated sound generation module, often referred to as a signal amplifier, produced by KUHNKE. This module, visible in the car's CAN network as a SAS-GEN 2 AGA device, integrates seamlessly with the vehicle's Drive Select modes, allowing drivers to switch between different sound profiles based on their driving preference.

Identifying a Faulty Active Exhaust System

Diagnosing a problem with your Audi's active exhaust system can sometimes be a journey of elimination, but there are clear indicators. Initially, you might notice a significant reduction in the exhaust's characteristic sound, or a complete absence of it. For those with diagnostic tools like VCDS (VAG-COM Diagnostic System), fault codes related to the sound module or actuators are a strong sign. However, as one owner discovered, these can sometimes be 'false negatives', pointing to the module when the real culprits are the speakers themselves.

A more tactile, and rather unsettling, symptom can emerge during the repair process: if you manage to remove the exhaust pots, you might find them surprisingly heavy. This is often due to a significant accumulation of water inside – a phenomenon described as sounding like carrying a 'coconut'. This ingress of water is a primary cause of speaker failure, leading to severe corrosion of the speaker components and terminals, effectively silencing them. Professional diagnosis by an auto electrician, especially one familiar with these systems, can pinpoint the exact fault, saving time and money on unnecessary part replacements.

The Journey to a DIY Fix

Faced with a silent exhaust and the daunting cost of a new OEM active exhaust system – often running into thousands of pounds – many Audi owners seek alternative solutions. The active exhaust speakers themselves are not readily available as separate OEM parts, pushing owners towards expensive full exhaust replacements or costly third-party repair services. One owner's persistence led to a breakthrough: discovering a YouTube video of engineers repairing a Maserati exhaust speaker system, which looked identical to the Audi units. This serendipitous find, combined with a lucky geographical proximity to a specialist, paved the way for a groundbreaking DIY repair.

The key to this repair lies in identifying suitable replacement speakers. While the original speakers are bespoke, marine-grade speakers from manufacturers like Pioneer offer a viable and robust alternative. Specifically, the Pioneer TS-MR1640 speakers were found to be a perfect fit. These 160-watt marine speakers offer a higher power handling capacity compared to the 100-watt TS-MR1600 versions, providing added durability, especially if you're running an aftermarket sound booster module like the Kufatec unit, which has been rumoured to stress the original speakers.

Step-by-Step Speaker Replacement Guide

This repair, while requiring some specialist tools and a careful hand, is entirely achievable for a mechanically inclined individual or with the assistance of a skilled professional. The process focuses on opening the sealed speaker housing, replacing the failed components, and re-sealing the unit.

Part One: Exhaust Removal

The first crucial step is to gain access to the active exhaust pots. This typically involves removing the exhaust system from its middle section connection point. Depending on your vehicle model and setup, this can often be achieved without the need for a professional ramp, though it will require working underneath the car.

Part Two: Opening the Speaker Housing

Once the exhaust pot is off the vehicle, the real work begins. The metal housing of the speaker is sealed, usually by a weld or crimp. To access the internal speaker, you'll need to carefully grind open this metal housing. This is a delicate process, especially since the housing is often made of stainless steel, requiring multiple grinding discs. Extreme care must be taken not to damage the internal speaker wires during this process. As the housing is opened, be prepared for a significant amount of water to pour out – a testament to the corrosive environment the original speakers endured. You'll then be able to remove the old, corroded speaker and its support plate, revealing the extent of the damage, particularly to the terminals.

Here’s a glimpse at the common state of failed speakers:

Original Speaker Condition

ComponentTypical ConditionImpact
Speaker TerminalsHeavily corroded, often green/white build-upLoss of electrical connection, no sound
Speaker Cone/DiaphragmRuptured, warped, or completely disintegratedInability to produce sound waves
Internal HousingSignificant water ingress, rustAccelerates speaker degradation

Part Three: Fitting New Speakers

With the old speaker removed, it's time to install the new Pioneer unit. While the replacement speaker's dimensions are often identical, the mounting holes may not perfectly align, or the original Torx screws might snap during removal due to corrosion. In such cases, you may need to drill new holes for mounting. Self-tapping screws or, as preferred by some, pop rivets, can be used to securely fasten the new speaker in place. The next critical step is to connect the new speaker to the existing wiring. This involves stripping back the black and red wires and carefully soldering them onto the new speaker's terminals. This can be a fiddly task due to the confined space within the dome, often requiring two people – one to hold the speaker and wires, and another to solder.

Replacement Speaker Comparison

FeaturePioneer TS-MR1600Pioneer TS-MR1640
Power Handling (RMS)100W160W
Size6.5 inches (16.5 cm)6.5 inches (16.5 cm)
TypeMarine SpeakerMarine Speaker
DurabilityGood water resistanceEnhanced water resistance, higher power
Cost (Approx.)£60£75

Final Stage: Welding and Finishing

Before you begin the re-welding process, there's a vital step: remove any plastic pop-out buttons or components from the top side of the dome. This prevents them from melting due to the heat of the welding and allows heat to dissipate more effectively. The welding itself should be done slowly and in small sections to avoid overheating the speaker and the surrounding metal. Applying water to the welds to cool them down quickly can also help. Once welded, apply a silver metal paint or spray over the welds to improve aesthetics and provide an additional layer of corrosion protection. Don't forget to weld the metal support plate back into its original position.

What is Audi active exhaust?
Audi Active Exhaust contains of one or two steel “stewpots” connected to the car’s exhaust pipes. The system adds rumble and loudness to the original exhaust sound with bass speakers inside the “pots”: it is the only way to seriously change the sound of diesel engines while keeping ecology in place.

Finally, refit the exhaust back onto the car, ensuring all connections are secure. Using some exhaust paste on the connecting pieces can help ensure a good seal and prevent leaks. With these steps completed, your active exhaust should be ready to roar once more.

The Post-Repair Experience: A Symphony Restored

The immediate impact of a successful speaker repair is often dramatic. As soon as the car is started, even without an aftermarket sound booster enabled, the characteristic burbling of the exhaust should be audibly present, particularly when revving the engine in dynamic or individual (with sport exhaust setup) driver select programs. The transformation is remarkable, turning heads and restoring the vehicle's intended acoustic presence.

For those with aftermarket sound booster modules, like the Kufatec sound booster, the repair truly unlocks the system's full potential. With profiles enabled, the car's exhaust note can shift from a subtle purr to a monstrous growl, providing an exhilarating driving experience. The ability to customise sound profiles based on RPM, speed, or pedal position, adding bracing and gurgling effects, allows for a truly personalised exhaust note. While factory firmwares and Kufatec profiles typically don't offer 'pops and bangs', the overall sound enhancement is significant.

Costs Incurred and Lessons Learned

While the initial thought of a faulty active exhaust might lead to fears of exorbitant costs, a DIY repair can be surprisingly economical. Here’s a breakdown of typical expenditures:

Estimated Repair Costs

ItemApproximate Cost (GBP)Notes
VCDS Cable & Software£70For self-diagnosis; useful for other car issues
Second-hand Sound Module£100If misdiagnosed initially; often £300+ new
Professional Diagnostics£100Highly recommended to confirm speaker fault
Pioneer TS-MR1640 Speakers£75Pair; 100W versions are slightly cheaper
Labour (if not DIY)VariableEstimate 2+ hours for two skilled individuals

The most significant lesson learned from this repair journey is the importance of accurate diagnosis. Investing in professional diagnostics upfront can save considerable time and money, preventing the purchase of unnecessary parts. While self-diagnosis tools like VCDS are invaluable for enthusiasts, a specialist's expertise can quickly cut through ambiguities. Furthermore, it's crucial to reiterate: never drill drainage holes into the exhaust pot or turn it upside down, as this will only exacerbate water ingress and damage.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Can I repair my active exhaust speakers myself?

A: Yes, it is possible to repair the active exhaust speakers yourself if you have the right tools (grinder, welder, soldering iron) and a good level of mechanical aptitude. However, it is a delicate process that requires patience and precision.

Q: What kind of speakers should I use for the replacement?

A: Marine-grade bass speakers, such as the Pioneer TS-MR1640 (160W) or TS-MR1600 (100W), are excellent choices due to their resistance to water and their similar dimensions to the original units. The higher wattage version is often preferred for increased durability.

Q: Will this repair work for all Audi models with active exhaust?

A: The Eberspacher 'pots' used in Audi's active exhaust systems are largely identical across various models (A6, A7, SQ5, SQ7, SQ8, and even some VW and Skoda models). Therefore, the repair method should be applicable to most vehicles using these specific active sound generators.

Q: Why did my original active exhaust speakers fail?

A: The most common reason for failure is water ingress into the sealed speaker housing. Over time, this leads to severe corrosion of the speaker components and electrical terminals, causing them to cease functioning.

Q: Do I need special software or coding after the repair?

A: If only the speakers were faulty, no additional software or coding should be required after replacing them. The existing sound generation module will simply recognise the new working speakers. If you have an aftermarket sound booster module like Kufatec, you might need to reconfigure your sound profiles, but this is typically done through their dedicated software.

Q: Is it necessary to remove the entire exhaust system?

A: You typically need to remove the active exhaust pot(s) from the vehicle, which often means disconnecting them from the middle section of the exhaust system. The entire exhaust doesn't usually need to be removed.

The journey to restoring your Audi's powerful exhaust note might seem daunting at first, but with the right information and a methodical approach, it's a highly achievable and incredibly satisfying repair. Say goodbye to that muted sound and hello to the full-bodied rumble your Audi was designed to deliver.

If you want to read more articles similar to Revive Your Audi's Roar: Active Exhaust Speaker Fix, you can visit the Repair category.

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