14/05/2010
In the world of fashion, distinguishing between real fur and its synthetic counterpart, faux fur, can be a perplexing task. With advancements in manufacturing, today's faux fur often boasts exceptional quality, while real fur is frequently shorn and dyed, blurring the lines of identification. Historically, price was a reliable indicator, but this is no longer the case, as stylish faux fur items can be found at surprisingly low price points. Even garment labels aren't always a definitive source, as fur trimmings, in particular, are rarely declared with their origin. This guide will equip you with the knowledge to reliably identify real fur.
Understanding the Challenge
The fashion industry has seen a rise in the use of both high-quality faux fur and treated real fur. Retailers like Amazon, Boohoo, and T.K. Maxx have faced scrutiny for selling items made from animal fur, sometimes mislabelled as faux. Investigations by Sky News in conjunction with the Humane Society International UK (HSI) have uncovered instances where items advertised as faux fur actually contained real animal hair. This highlights the importance of consumer vigilance, especially when purchasing items with fur trim or from brands that lack clear fur policies.
Key Tests to Identify Real Fur
The HSI, in partnership with retailers like Lush, has provided valuable insights into identifying real fur. These methods focus on examining the physical characteristics of the fur and its attachment.
1. Inspect the Ends of the Fur Fibres
One of the most telling signs of real fur is the natural taper at the end of each strand. Imagine the fine, pointed tip of a strand of your own hair; real animal fur exhibits a similar characteristic. In contrast, faux fur, due to its manufacturing process, typically has blunt, cut ends. This is because synthetic fibres are often cut to length during production.
However, it's important to note that this test isn't always conclusive on its own. Real fur that has been sheared can also appear blunter at the ends. Therefore, it's crucial to look for other corroborating signs to make a reliable identification.
2. Examine the Base of the Fur
This is perhaps the most definitive test. Gently part the hairs of the fur to expose the base.
- Real Fur: If the hairs are attached to a piece of animal skin (often appearing as leather), then the fur is real. You might see a backing that feels like skin.
- Faux Fur: If the hairs are individually sewn onto a fabric backing, creating a weave-like effect, then it is likely faux fur. You will see a fabric base, similar to the material used in carpets or upholstery.
The tactile sensation of the base can also be a clue. Real fur's backing will feel like supple leather, while faux fur's backing will feel like a synthetic fabric.
3. The Burn Test (Use with Caution)
The burn test can provide a strong indication, but it must be conducted safely and with minimal fibre extraction.
- Real Fur: When a few strands of real fur are carefully held to a flame, they will singe and emit a smell similar to burning human hair. The resulting ash will be brittle and crumbly.
- Faux Fur: Synthetic fibres, when exposed to flame, will typically melt, curl up into hard little balls, and produce a distinct smell of burning plastic.
Important Note: This test should only be performed on a small, inconspicuous area or a few loose fibres in a well-ventilated space, away from flammable materials. The goal is to observe the reaction, not to damage the garment.
4. The Feel and Look Test
Beyond the structural tests, the tactile and visual properties can offer further clues.
The Feel Test:
Gently rub the fur between your thumb and forefinger. Real fur typically feels incredibly soft, smooth, and supple. It should roll easily between your fingers. Faux fur, on the other hand, often feels rougher, more artificial, and can sometimes feel slightly sticky, especially in humid conditions. It might also resemble the texture of a stuffed toy.
The Look Test:
Take a small section of the fur and gently blow on it, or use your fingers to separate the hairs and look closely at the base. Real fur often has a complex structure, with multiple layers of fine, sometimes curled underhairs that create a dense undercoat, interspersed with longer guard hairs. These hairs are all attached to the skin. Faux fur tends to have a more uniform structure, where each strand might be the same length and colour, and as mentioned, you'll see the fabric backing.
5. The Pin Test
This test involves trying to push a pin through the base of the fur where the hairs are attached.
- Real Fur: If the fur is attached to genuine animal skin, you will likely find it difficult to push a pin through. The leather will resist the pin's entry.
- Faux Fur: When the hairs are attached to a fabric backing, the pin should pass through relatively easily, encountering minimal resistance.
6. The Cut Test
If you are able to make a small, discreet incision on the inside of the garment (perhaps along a seam), you can examine the backing material.
- Real Fur: The inside of a real fur garment will reveal the texture of animal skin, which might be soft leather or suede.
- Faux Fur: The backing will be a synthetic woven underlay, often a mesh or knitted fabric, from which the faux fibres emerge.
The Deception of Labels and Price
It's crucial to remember that labels can be misleading. A garment might be labelled as 'faux fur' or list 'synthetic materials' in its description, yet still contain real animal fur due to mislabelling or deliberate deception. Similarly, the price of an item is no longer a reliable indicator of its authenticity. Fur trim can be sourced and processed cheaply, making affordable garments potentially made from real fur.
Taking Action Against Mislabelled Fur
If you believe you have purchased an item that has been mislabelled as fake fur, you can report it. The Humane Society International UK provides online forms and an email address ([email protected]) for reporting such instances. Furthermore, you can support initiatives like the #FurFreeBritain campaign by signing petitions to advocate for greater transparency and ethical practices in the fashion industry.
Summary Table: Real vs. Faux Fur
| Characteristic | Real Fur | Faux Fur |
|---|---|---|
| Fibre Ends | Tapered, fine | Blunt, cut |
| Base Attachment | Animal skin (leather) | Fabric backing (weave) |
| Feel | Soft, smooth, supple | Rougher, artificial, potentially sticky |
| Structure | Multi-layered, natural variation | Uniform, often single length/colour fibres |
| Burn Test Smell | Burnt hair | Burnt plastic |
| Burn Test Residue | Brittle ash | Hard plastic ball |
| Pin Test Resistance | High resistance (skin) | Low resistance (fabric) |
| Cut Test (Inside) | Animal skin texture | Synthetic woven underlay |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q1: Can I always trust the label?
No, labels can be inaccurate or deliberately misleading. Always perform your own checks, especially for fur trimmings.
Q2: Is cheaper fur always fake?
Not necessarily. The cost of sourcing and processing real fur can vary, making cheaper items potentially real.
Q3: What's the most reliable test?
Examining the base of the fur to see if it's attached to skin or fabric is generally the most definitive test.
Q4: Is the burn test safe to do at home?
It can be done safely if you take extreme precautions, use only a few fibres, and do it in a controlled environment. However, the other tests are safer alternatives.
Q5: What should I do if I suspect mislabelled fur?
Report it to the relevant authorities or organisations like the Humane Society International UK, and consider supporting campaigns for fur-free policies.
By employing these simple yet effective tests, consumers can navigate the complexities of the fashion market with greater confidence, ensuring they are making informed choices about the products they purchase.
If you want to read more articles similar to Distinguishing Real Fur from Faux, you can visit the Automotive category.