Nissan Pathfinder Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Experiencing a spongy brake pedal or hearing a persistent squeal from your rear wheels? It's a clear indicator that your Nissan Pathfinder's rear brake pads may be nearing the end of their life. Replacing worn brake pads is a crucial maintenance task that ensures your vehicle's stopping power and overall safety. This guide will walk you through the process for a 4th generation 2013-2016 Nissan Pathfinder, equipping you with the knowledge to tackle this job with confidence.

Essential Tools and Parts

Before you begin, gather the necessary tools and parts. Having everything readily available will make the process smoother and more efficient. You'll need:

• New rear brake pads (e.g., Nissan Pathfinder Rear Brake Pads Part Numbers: 44060-3TA0A for standard, 44060-3TA2A for performance)
• Jack and jack stands
• Lug wrench or tire iron
• Socket set (including 14mm)
• Wrench set (including 14mm)
• C-clamp or brake piston spreader tool
• Brake cleaner spray
• Brake lubricant/grease
• Wire brush
• Gloves and safety glasses
• Wheel chocks
• Torque wrench (optional but recommended)
• Flathead screwdriver (for prying old pads)

Safety First!

Safety should always be your top priority when working on your vehicle. Ensure you are parked on a level surface and have switched off the ignition. Engage the emergency or parking brake firmly. Crucially, place wheel chocks on both sides of the front tires to prevent any accidental rolling. Working on one side of the vehicle at a time, while keeping the other three wheels on the ground, provides an extra layer of safety.

Step-by-Step Replacement Guide

1. Loosen and Remove the Wheel

Begin by slightly loosening the five lug nuts on the rear wheel you'll be working on. Rotate them counterclockwise about a quarter to half a turn using your tire iron. Next, position your floor jack under the appropriate jacking point for the rear of your Pathfinder. Raise the vehicle until the wheel is off the ground, and then securely support it with at least two jack stands. Never rely solely on the jack. Once the vehicle is stable, spin off the lug nuts completely and set them aside in a safe place. Carefully pull the rear wheel off the hub to expose the brake rotor, caliper, and bracket.

2. Access the Brake Caliper

The brake caliper is typically secured to the caliper bracket by two bolts, often referred to as slider pins or guide bolts. These are usually located on the back of the caliper. Using your 14mm socket and ratchet, loosen the upper caliper bolt. You may find that the lower caliper bolt is more difficult to access due to proximity with suspension components. In some cases, you might need a 14mm wrench for the lower bolt, or you may not be able to remove it completely without loosening the caliper bracket itself. For a standard pad replacement, you can often swing the caliper up and out of the way, supported by a piece of wire or bungee cord to prevent strain on the brake hose. Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose.

3. Remove Old Brake Pads

With the caliper swung clear, you can now carefully pull out the old inner and outer brake pads from the caliper bracket. Take note of the orientation of the wear indicator bar (the small metal tab that causes a squealing noise when the pads are low) on the old pads. This will help you correctly position the new pads.

4. Retract the Caliper Piston

Before installing the new, thicker brake pads, you'll need to retract the caliper piston back into the caliper body. This is where your C-clamp or brake piston spreader tool comes in handy. Place an old brake pad against the piston to distribute the pressure evenly. Slowly and carefully tighten the clamp, pushing the piston back into the caliper. As you do this, it's essential to monitor the brake fluid reservoir in the engine bay. Open the cap (usually found in the right rear area of the engine bay) and keep an eye on the fluid level. If it gets too high, you may need to siphon some out with a clean turkey baster or syringe to prevent overflow. Be cautious not to over-tighten and damage the piston or rubber dust boot. Once the piston is retracted, close the brake fluid reservoir cap tightly. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture from the air, which can degrade its performance.

5. Clean and Lubricate

Thoroughly clean the brake rotor, caliper bracket, and the caliper assembly using brake cleaner spray. A wire brush can be useful for removing rust and debris from the bracket where the pads sit. Do not use compressed air or blow on the brake parts, as inhaling brake dust can be harmful and is a potential carcinogen. Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant to the areas of metal-to-metal contact, such as the edges of the caliper bracket where the new pads will slide, and on the slider pins. Crucially, do not apply lubricant to the friction surface of the brake pads or the rotor.

6. Inspect and Replace Rotors (If Necessary)

While you have the caliper off, it's a good opportunity to inspect your brake rotors. If you've noticed any shuddering or pulsation when braking, your rotors may be warped and require resurfacing ("turning") or replacement. If the rotors appear to be in good condition with no deep grooves or significant wear, you might be able to get away with just replacing the pads. To replace the rotors, you'll need to remove the two bolts securing the caliper bracket to the steering knuckle (often around 62 lb-ft torque specification). Once the bracket is removed, you can usually tap the old rotor off with a rubber mallet and slide the new one into place.

7. Install New Brake Pads and Hardware

If your new brake pads came with new anti-rattle clips or hardware, remove the old ones from the caliper bracket. Install the new clips, ensuring they are properly seated. Apply a small amount of brake lubricant to the contact points on the new clips where they will interface with the new brake pads. Carefully slide the new brake pads into the bracket, making sure the wear indicator is positioned correctly (usually on the inner pad, at the top, as noted earlier). Ensure the pads sit flush against the rotor surface.

8. Reassemble the Caliper

Lubricate the smooth portions of the caliper slider pins with brake lubricant. Carefully swing the caliper back down over the new pads. Reinstall the caliper bolts, ensuring they thread in smoothly. Tighten the caliper bolts to the manufacturer's recommended torque specification (often around 32 lb-ft), or simply snug them up securely if a torque wrench isn't available. Double-check that they are tight.

9. Reinstall the Wheel and Lower the Vehicle

Replace the rear wheel onto the hub. Spin on the lug nuts by hand, tightening them in a star or crisscross pattern to ensure the wheel is seated evenly. Once the lug nuts are snug, use your tire iron to tighten them further in the same star pattern. Carefully lower the vehicle off the jack stands, then give the lug nuts a final tightening. It's a good idea to re-torque the lug nuts after driving a short distance (e.g., 50-100 miles).

10. Test Your Brakes

Before driving off, pump the brake pedal several times. This will help reseat the caliper piston and ensure there's pressure in the system. The pedal should feel firm. If it feels soft or spongy, double-check your work, and consider bleeding the brake lines. Brake fluid bleeder valves are typically located on the caliper, often under a rubber cap. Driving with improperly installed or functioning brakes is extremely dangerous. Perform a low-speed test drive in a safe area, checking for proper braking response and any unusual noises.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q1: How often should I replace my brake pads?
This depends heavily on your driving habits and conditions. A general guideline is to inspect them every 6 months or 10,000 miles, and replacement is typically needed between 25,000 and 70,000 miles.

Q2: What are the symptoms of worn rear brake pads?
Common symptoms include a high-pitched squealing or grinding noise when braking, a softer or spongier brake pedal, longer stopping distances, and a pulling sensation to one side when braking.

Q3: Can I replace just the brake pads, or do I need to replace the rotors too?
If your rotors are smooth, flat, and have sufficient thickness remaining, you can often just replace the pads. However, if they show signs of warping, grooving, or are below the minimum thickness specification, they should be replaced or resurfaced.

Q4: What type of brake fluid does my Nissan Pathfinder use?
For most Nissan Pathfinders, DOT 3 brake fluid is recommended. Always consult your owner's manual for the specific type required.

Q5: Is it necessary to bleed the brakes after replacing pads?
It's not always strictly necessary for a simple pad replacement if the caliper piston was retracted carefully. However, if you experienced a soft pedal beforehand, or if you suspect air in the lines, bleeding the brakes is highly recommended to ensure optimal performance and safety.

Conclusion

Replacing your rear brake pads on your Nissan Pathfinder can be a rewarding DIY task. By following these steps carefully and prioritizing safety, you can maintain your vehicle's braking system and ensure your peace of mind on the road. If at any point you feel unsure or uncomfortable, it's always best to seek assistance from a qualified mechanic.