Exploring Bodmin Moor's Golitha Falls

Bodmin Moor, a rugged and mystical expanse in Cornwall, offers a wealth of natural beauty and ancient intrigue. Among its most captivating spots are the Golitha Falls, a series of cascades nestled within ancient woodland. This guide delves into everything you need to know to explore this enchanting location, from understanding the falls themselves to navigating the surrounding moorland.

What are the Golitha Falls?

The Golitha Falls are not a single, towering waterfall, but rather a collection of picturesque cascades flowing along the River Fowey. The true magic lies in their setting: the ancient woodland that surrounds them, creating a serene and almost fairytale-like atmosphere. The reserve is teeming with diverse flora and fauna, making it a haven for nature lovers. It’s a popular destination, drawing visitors year-round to witness its outstanding natural beauty.

The Legend of Golitha Falls

Bodmin Moor is steeped in folklore, and Golitha Falls is no exception. The name 'Golitha' is believed to be a Cornish word for 'obstruction'. Local legends speak of an ancient 'man of the woods' named Golitha, who is said to still wander the woodlands on a full moon. More historically, the falls are linked to King Doniert (or Dunrgarth), one of the last Cornish kings, who is said to have drowned here in 875 AD. A short walk from the falls leads to King Doniert’s Stone, a poignant reminder of this historical figure.

When to Visit

Golitha Falls is a beautiful destination throughout the year. Visiting on a rainy day, as the author did, can enhance the experience with stronger water flow, while the woodland canopy provides shelter. Summer offers a shaded escape from the sun, and winter can transform the scene with frost and icicles. The most crucial tip is to visit during daylight hours, as Bodmin Moor becomes pitch black after dark and is notorious for causing people to get lost.

Location and Travel

The Golitha Falls Nature Reserve is situated within Bodmin Moor, an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. It's conveniently located about a 10-minute drive from Liskeard and around 30 minutes from the Eden Project. While the area is generally well-signposted, having your own vehicle is highly recommended due to the remote nature of the moor and infrequent public transport. Phone signal can be limited, so offline maps or a GPS device are advisable. A small number of buses do travel from Liskeard, but they typically drop visitors a walk away from the falls.

Golitha Falls Car Park

A significant advantage of visiting Golitha Falls is the availability of a FREE, large car park that is open 24 hours. This car park can get busy, especially during peak season, and accommodates larger vehicles like camper vans. The car park is approximately a 5-10 minute walk from the falls themselves. Within the car park area, you'll find useful facilities, including Inkie's Smokehouse and Inkie's Trading Post.

Important Travel Tips and Warnings

• Free Entry: Golitha Falls is free to visit and open 24/7, but sensible visiting hours are advised.
• Dog-Friendly: Dogs are welcome, but it's essential to be mindful of the local wildlife.
• Varying Difficulty: Routes range from accessible paths to more challenging, uneven terrain. Always walk within your capabilities.
• Safety First: Exercise extreme caution around the cascades. The river can be powerful, and there have been unfortunate incidents due to people slipping.

What to Wear and Pack

The moorland environment can be unpredictable. Come prepared with:

• Waterproof Footwear: The woodlands can become very boggy, especially after rain. Sturdy walking shoes or waterproof boots are highly recommended.
• Weather-Appropriate Clothing: Bodmin Moor often has its own microclimate, so pack for both sun and rain.
• Water and Snacks: While there are facilities at the car park, it's wise to carry refreshments for your walk.
• Torches/Phone Light: Essential if you plan to be out as daylight fades.
• Bug Spray: Particularly useful during the summer months.
• Camera: To capture the stunning scenery.

Golitha Falls Walking Route Options

Two main routes depart from the car park:

Red Arrow Route (Easy/Accessible)

This is a gentle, circular walk that takes around 20-30 minutes. It's designed to be accessible, with a relatively flat gravel path and a wooden bridge. While marked as accessible, be aware of tree roots and potential mud, which can still present minor challenges. This route offers lovely views of the River Fowey and smaller cascades. Picnic benches and information boards are available along this path.

Yellow Arrow Route (Harder/Longer)

For those seeking a more adventurous experience, the yellow arrow route follows the riverbed, leading to the larger, more dramatic cascades. This path is significantly more challenging, featuring uneven ground, steep sections, logs to balance on, and boggy areas. Allow at least 45 minutes to an hour for this route. The reward is the impressive sight of the most powerful cascades, though caution is paramount due to the terrain.

What to Expect on the Harder Walk

The yellow route requires more effort. Expect to encounter:

• Tree Roots and Uneven Ground: The path is often obscured by leaves, making it difficult to spot obstacles.
• Bridges and Log Crossings: You'll need to navigate streams using existing bridges or strategically placed logs.
• Boggy Sections: Be prepared for muddy, squelching areas, especially after rainfall.
• Steep Inclines: Some parts of the riverbed path become steep and require careful scrambling.

The most impressive cascade is typically found towards the end of this route before the public path becomes impassable. It’s crucial to assess your own fitness and comfort level before embarking on this more demanding trail.

King Doniert’s Stone

A short excursion from Golitha Falls will take you to King Doniert’s Stone. This ancient wayside cross, now in two pieces, commemorates King Doniert, who is believed to have drowned in the nearby falls. The inscription reads, "Doniert rogavit pro anima," meaning "Doniert has asked [for this to be made] for his soul's sake." It offers a fascinating glimpse into Cornwall's early Christian history.

Golitha Falls Café & Facilities

The main amenities are located at the Golitha Falls car park:

• Inkie's Smokehouse: A popular café offering a range of BBQ dishes, breakfast items, hot and cold drinks, and homemade cakes. It’s a great spot to refuel after your walk.
• Inkie's Trading Post: A small gift shop selling local produce, crafts, and souvenirs.
• Public Toilets: Available in the car park, though they can be basic and require caution due to potential mud and limited supplies.

Exploring Beyond Golitha Falls

Bodmin Moor offers numerous other attractions:

• Trevethy Quoit: An impressive Neolithic tomb dating back to 3,500 BC, featuring massive standing stones.
• Hurlers Stone Circles & The Cheesewring: Located near Minions, these Bronze Age stone circles and the uniquely stacked Cheesewring rocks are must-see natural and historical landmarks.
• Other Moorland Sites: Explore ancient sites like Stannon Stone Circle, Rough Tor, and Brown Willy, or enjoy the scenery around Colliford Lake and Siblyback Lake.

Accommodation on Bodmin Moor

For a truly immersive experience, consider staying at the historic Jamaica Inn, a former smuggler's pub dating back to 1750. Made famous by Daphne du Maurier's novel, it now offers comfortable accommodation, a restaurant, and a bar, serving as an ideal base for exploring Bodmin Moor.

Golitha Falls is a gem on Bodmin Moor, offering a beautiful and accessible natural experience with options for all levels of fitness. Remember to tread carefully, respect the environment, and soak in the ancient atmosphere of this Cornish wonder.