03/07/2022
The MacPherson strut suspension system is a cornerstone of modern vehicle design, offering a compact and efficient solution for front-end suspension. At the top of each strut, where it meets the vehicle's chassis, sits the strut top mount assembly, which typically includes a rubber bush and a bearing. These seemingly small components play a crucial role in your car's handling, steering precision, and overall ride comfort. However, like all parts exposed to the rigours of the road, they are subject to wear and tear. Knowing when to deem these components as failed, particularly in the context of an MOT test, can be a grey area, often relying on the subjective assessment of the MOT tester.

You should only consider rejecting MacPherson strut top bushes when any play detected is clearly due to wear or maladjustment. This core principle guides professional assessment, yet its interpretation can vary significantly. The challenge often lies in distinguishing between acceptable movement and excessive play that compromises vehicle safety and performance.
- Understanding MacPherson Strut Top Bushes
- Recognising Signs of Wear and Maladjustment
- The Subjective Nature of MOT Testing
- The Impact of Age, Road Dirt, and Corrosion
- When to Reject: Practical Criteria for MOT Testers
- DIY Inspection and Temporary Measures
- Replacing Strut Top Mounts: Key Considerations
- Frequently Asked Questions About Strut Top Bushes
- Conclusion
Understanding MacPherson Strut Top Bushes
Before delving into rejection criteria, it's vital to understand what these components are and what they do. A MacPherson strut top mount typically comprises several parts: a rubber bush, a bearing, and a metal mounting plate. The rubber bush acts as an insulator, dampening noise and vibration from the road and preventing metal-on-metal contact. The bearing allows the strut to pivot smoothly as the steering wheel is turned, enabling precise steering. Together, they securely attach the top of the strut to the vehicle's body, managing vertical suspension travel and providing a pivot point for steering.
Recognising Signs of Wear and Maladjustment
Worn or maladjusted strut top bushes can manifest in several ways, impacting both your driving experience and your vehicle's safety. Identifying these symptoms early can save you from more significant issues down the line.
Common Symptoms of Failing Strut Top Bushes:
- Audible Clunking or Knocking: Often heard when going over bumps, potholes, or turning the steering wheel at low speeds. This is typically caused by excessive play in the worn rubber bush or bearing.
- Vague or Loose Steering: If the steering feels less responsive or you notice a delay between turning the wheel and the car reacting, worn top mounts could be a culprit.
- Uneven Tyre Wear: While many factors contribute to uneven tyre wear, excessive movement in the strut top mount can alter suspension geometry, leading to abnormal wear patterns.
- Vibrations: You might feel vibrations through the steering wheel or floorboards, particularly at certain speeds.
- Popping or Groaning Noises: Especially noticeable when turning the steering wheel from lock to lock, indicating issues with the bearing within the top mount.
- Visually Perished Rubber: A visual inspection might reveal cracks, tears, or excessive perishing of the rubber component of the bush.
What Constitutes Maladjustment?
Maladjustment typically refers to issues arising from incorrect installation. This could include:
- Incorrect torque applied to the top nut, leading to looseness.
- Improper seating of the bush or bearing during assembly.
- Missing components or incorrect orientation.
While less common than wear, maladjustment can cause similar symptoms and should be rectified promptly.
The Subjective Nature of MOT Testing
One of the most challenging aspects of assessing strut top bushes is the subjectivity inherent in MOT testing. As noted by an MOT tester, 'every MOT tester will vary on what they deem as being 'unsafe'.' This means that while there are guidelines, the final decision often rests on the individual tester's experience and judgment of what constitutes 'excessive' play or 'significant' deterioration.
For instance, one tester might pass a vehicle with minor visible perishing of the rubber if no significant play is detected, while another might fail it on the grounds of potential future failure. This variability can be frustrating for vehicle owners, especially when a garage claims to 'know what's normal for every make and model' – a significant claim that highlights the reliance on individual experience over strict objective measurements for some components.
The Impact of Age, Road Dirt, and Corrosion
The operational life of strut top bushes is severely impacted by environmental factors. A vehicle exposed to 14 years of road dirt, moisture, and corrosive elements, such as road salt, will inevitably suffer accelerated wear compared to one driven in pristine conditions. The rubber components can harden, crack, and lose their elasticity, while the metal parts and bearings can corrode, leading to increased friction and play.
Even if a part isn't completely 'broken', the cumulative effect of long-term exposure can significantly degrade its performance and integrity. While a specific issue might not be 'recognised' by a manufacturer for a particular model (like the Honda Jazz mentioned), it doesn't negate the general principle that age and environmental exposure contribute heavily to component degradation. A highly corroded or dirt-laden strut top mount, even if showing minimal play when static, might not perform optimally under dynamic driving conditions, leading to potential safety concerns.
When to Reject: Practical Criteria for MOT Testers
While subjective, MOT testers typically look for specific indicators that warrant a rejection:
| Rejection Criterion | Description & Tester Action |
|---|---|
| Excessive Play | Any movement between the strut and the body that is clearly beyond normal operational tolerance. The tester will typically lift the vehicle and check for play by hand or using a lever. If the play is significant enough to affect steering, stability, or braking, it's a fail. |
| Perished/Damaged Rubber | If the rubber bush is severely cracked, torn, or has separated from the metal components, indicating a loss of its dampening and isolating properties. Minor surface cracking may be an advisory, but significant damage is a fail. |
| Bearing Seizure/Roughness | If the steering feels stiff, notchy, or produces grinding noises when turned, suggesting the bearing is failing or has seized. This compromises steering return and overall handling. |
| Loose Fasteners | Any bolts or nuts securing the strut top mount that are loose or missing. This directly compromises the structural integrity of the suspension attachment. |
| Corrosion | Severe corrosion affecting the structural integrity of the metal components of the top mount or the surrounding chassis area where it attaches. Surface rust is usually acceptable, but deep, flaking rust is not. |
It's important to remember that 'excessive' is key here. A small amount of play might be deemed acceptable if it doesn't compromise the vehicle's safety or control. However, if the play is clearly impacting the vehicle's steering or stability, it necessitates replacement.

DIY Inspection and Temporary Measures
Before an MOT retest, you can perform your own preliminary checks:
- Lift the Vehicle: Safely jack up the front of the car, ensuring the suspension is unladen.
- Visual Inspection: Look at the top of the strut where it meets the chassis. Check the rubber for cracks, tears, or signs of perishing.
- Check for Play: With the wheel still on, try to move the wheel from side to side and top to bottom. While looking at the strut top, observe if there's any noticeable movement between the strut rod and the top mount, or between the top mount and the chassis.
- Listen for Noises: Have someone turn the steering wheel from lock to lock while you listen for any clunking, grinding, or popping noises from the strut tower area.
For temporary relief or to help diagnose issues, packing under the top mount to remove excess play when the car is jacked up is a known trick. This involves inserting a temporary spacer or shims to reduce movement. However, this is strictly a diagnostic or very short-term measure and not a permanent repair. It cannot be relied upon for an MOT pass if the underlying wear is significant, as it doesn't address the root cause and could even be seen as an attempt to deceive the tester.
Replacing Strut Top Mounts: Key Considerations
When it comes to replacement, it's beneficial to know that the top mount bearing can often be replaced without needing to compress the springs, provided the strut assembly is removed from the vehicle and the top nut is carefully undone while counter-holding the strut rod. However, if you are replacing the entire strut top mount (which includes the bush and bearing), or the strut itself, spring compressors are almost always required for safety when disassembling the strut. This is a critical safety point, as compressed springs store immense energy and can cause serious injury if not handled correctly. Unless you are an experienced mechanic with the correct tools, it is highly recommended to have this work carried out by a professional.
Why Replace Both Sides?
When one strut top bush fails, it's often a good practice to replace both sides (left and right) simultaneously. Suspension components typically wear at similar rates. Replacing only one side can lead to an imbalance in your suspension system, potentially affecting handling, tyre wear, and putting undue stress on the newer component.
Frequently Asked Questions About Strut Top Bushes
Q1: What sounds indicate a worn strut top bush?
A1: Common sounds include a clunking or knocking noise when driving over bumps or potholes, and a creaking, groaning, or popping sound when turning the steering wheel, especially at low speeds or when stationary.
Q2: Can worn strut top bushes affect wheel alignment?
A2: Yes, excessive play in the strut top bushes can alter the suspension geometry, specifically the caster and camber angles, leading to improper wheel alignment and potentially uneven tyre wear.
Q3: Is it safe to drive with worn strut top bushes?
A3: While you might be able to drive with mildly worn bushes, it is not recommended for extended periods. Severely worn bushes compromise steering precision, handling stability, and braking performance, significantly increasing the risk of an accident. They can also lead to further damage to other suspension components.
Q4: How much does it cost to replace strut top bushes?
A4: The cost varies significantly depending on the make and model of your vehicle, the cost of parts, and labour rates in your area. Parts themselves are typically not overly expensive, but the labour involved in disassembling and reassembling the strut assembly can make it a moderate expense. Always get a quote from a reputable garage.
Q5: Do I need a wheel alignment after replacing strut top bushes?
A5: Yes, it is highly recommended to have a wheel alignment done after replacing strut top bushes or any major suspension components. Even minor changes in the top mount position can affect the alignment, and a proper alignment will ensure optimal handling, tyre life, and safety.
Conclusion
Understanding when to reject MacPherson strut top bushes boils down to a combination of recognising clear signs of wear or maladjustment, acknowledging the impact of age and environmental factors, and appreciating the subjective element of MOT testing. While the final decision rests with the MOT tester, being informed about the symptoms and criteria can empower you to engage more effectively with your garage and ensure your vehicle remains safe and reliable on the road. Always prioritise safety and address suspension issues promptly to avoid further damage and ensure peace of mind.
If you want to read more articles similar to When to Reject MacPherson Strut Top Bushes, you can visit the Suspension category.
