Iveco Daily Clutch Replacement Guide

The clutch is a vital component in any vehicle, allowing the driver to engage and disengage the engine from the gearbox, facilitating gear changes and bringing the vehicle to a halt without stalling the engine. When a clutch begins to fail, it can manifest in various ways, from slipping and difficulty engaging gears to a completely lost drive. This article, guided by Schaeffler LuK's Alistair Mason, walks through the clutch replacement process on a 2014 Iveco Daily 35C17 that had covered approximately 56,000 miles and was recovered with no drive, a clear indicator of a clutch-related issue. The diagnosis confirmed the clutch was indeed the culprit, and authorisation was given for its replacement.

Vehicle Information at a Glance

Before diving into the procedure, let's summarise the key details of the vehicle in question:

Understanding the Pull-Type Clutch

The Iveco Daily 35C17 utilises a pull-type clutch. This design offers a significant advantage: it provides a greater clamping load on the clutch assembly without requiring an excessively heavy clutch pedal. This is achieved through the diaphragm spring's pivot point and lever ratio, which are positioned at the outer edge. Unlike traditional push-type clutches where the pivot is two-thirds or three-quarters of the way down the spring, a pull-type clutch needs to be 'pulled' to disengage. This mechanism is common in commercial vehicles where higher clamping loads are necessary, but can also be found in some modern passenger cars. A crucial point to remember during replacement is how the gearbox is removed while the release bearing remains attached to the clutch. A few minutes spent researching this specific aspect can save hours of frustration.

Step-by-Step Gearbox Removal

Removing the gearbox is a critical phase of the clutch replacement. Here's a detailed breakdown:

1. Vehicle Preparation: Ensure the vehicle is safely positioned on a lift. Open the bonnet and disconnect the battery's earth lead, stowing it away securely. This is the only part of the repair performed at ground level.
2. Accessing the Underside: Raise the lift to gain comfortable access to the underside of the vehicle.
3. Support the Gearbox: Position a transmission jack correctly to support the weight of the gearbox.
4. Remove the Crossmember: Detach the gearbox crossmember by removing the gearbox mounting nut and the crossmember-to-chassis bolts. (Refer to Fig.1 in the original documentation for visual aid).
5. Prop Shaft Disconnection: With the crossmember removed, disconnect the prop shaft from the gearbox. Unbolt the centre mounting from the chassis. It is highly recommended to mark the original position of the prop shaft flange and the gearbox flange to ensure correct reassembly and avoid potential balancing issues.
6. Electrical Connections: This provides excellent access to the electrical multiplugs on the side of the gearbox. Disconnect these, unbolt their mounting bracket, and stow them safely, ensuring they are kept clear of the gearbox.
7. Gear Cable Removal: The gear cables can now be disconnected. Lever the cables off their ball joints and then carefully ease the outer cables out of their retaining brackets. (Refer to Fig.2).
8. Hydraulic Slave Cylinder: Unbolt the metal mounting bracket of the hydraulic slave cylinder and stow the cylinder and bracket away from the gearbox. Detach the rubber boot from the release arm. (Refer to Fig.3). This action allows the release arm to pivot sufficiently to disengage from the clutch release bearing during gearbox removal.
9. Bell Housing and Starter Motor Bolts: Ensure the transmission jack is correctly positioned. Working around the gearbox, carefully remove the bell housing and starter motor bolts. It's good practice to store these bolts in the order they were removed to facilitate reassembly.
10. Gearbox Separation: The gearbox can now be carefully moved away from the engine. As you do this, ease the release arm back to ensure it disengages from the clutch release bearing. Once the gearbox input shaft is clear of the engine and the release arm is fully disengaged, the gearbox can be lowered and removed from the vehicle.

Clutch Replacement Procedure

With the gearbox removed, the focus shifts to the clutch assembly itself:

1. Clutch Removal: Remove the six clutch bolts and then carefully take out the clutch assembly from the flywheel.
2. Fault Diagnosis (Example): In this specific case, the clutch fault was clearly visible. The clutch lining had detached from the clutch plate and broken apart due to slipping and overheating. This also exposed the dual-mass flywheel (DMF) to excessive heat, evidenced by a blue discolouration on its surface, indicating damage to the internal springs and grease. (Refer to Fig.4). The customer was contacted, and authorisation was granted to replace the DMF as well. It is good practice to clear and vacuum up any broken clutch lining material at this stage.
3. Release System Inspection: Turn your attention to the release system within the bell housing. Ensure the bell housing is clean. Inspect the release bearing guide tube for any signs of wear and replace it if necessary. Check that the pivot point on the release arm is free and shows no signs of wear, as these pivot points are known to seize.
4. Lubrication: Apply a light smear of high-melting-point grease to the guide tube and the splines of the gearbox input shaft. Mount the clutch plate onto the input shaft to confirm it's the correct plate and to evenly distribute the grease.
5. New Release Bearing Installation: Remove the clutch plate and any excess grease. Apply a light smear of high-melting-point grease to the pivot points of the release arm and the release bearing. Fit the new release bearing, ensuring it engages correctly with the release arm as it passes up the guide tube. Once in position, check that the release arm operates correctly and freely. (Refer to Fig.5).
6. DMF and Clutch Cover Installation: Replace the dual-mass flywheel and torque its bolts to the manufacturer's specified torque. Clean both the DMF clutch face and the new clutch pressure plate face using a suitable brake and clutch dust cleaner.
7. Clutch Plate and Cover Mounting: Using a clutch alignment tool, mount the new clutch plate onto the flywheel, ensuring the 'gearbox side' faces away from the engine. Locate the clutch cover onto the flywheel dowels. Insert the six clutch bolts and tighten them in an even, sequential pattern. Finally, torque the bolts to the manufacturer's specified torque. (Refer to Fig.6).

Ensuring Engine-Gearbox Alignment

Correct alignment between the engine and gearbox is paramount for the release bearing to lock into the clutch cover during installation. This is a crucial step that cannot be overlooked.

1. Alignment Dowels: Prior to fitting the gearbox, it is critical to ensure that all engine-to-gearbox alignment dowels are correctly inserted. (Refer to Fig.7 & Fig.8).

Gearbox Installation

Reinstalling the gearbox requires careful attention:

1. Positioning the Gearbox: Using the transmission jack, carefully ease the gearbox back into its position.
2. Locating on Dowels: Confirm that the gearbox is correctly located on the alignment dowels and is seated tightly against the engine. Insert the bell housing bolts and tighten them securely.
3. Engaging the Release Bearing: The release bearing needs to be inserted and locked into the clutch cover by hand. Pull the release arm backwards until the release bearing begins to locate into the clutch. At this point, use a lever to ease the arm further back until it 'snaps' into the centre of the clutch. Pull back and forth on the lever to confirm the bearing is securely locked in position. Fit the rubber boot.
4. Slave Cylinder and Pedal Operation: As soon as possible, fit the slave cylinder assembly. Operate the clutch pedal to confirm correct clutch operation.
5. Reverse Order Reassembly: Once the clutch operation is confirmed, the rest of the installation is the reverse of the removal process. Reconnect the prop shaft, centre mounting, gear cables, electrical multiplugs, and the gearbox crossmember.
6. Final Checks and Road Test: After reconnecting the battery lead, reset any required electrical systems. Crucially, carry out a full road test to ensure the repair has been completed to a high standard and the clutch is functioning correctly.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q1: How do I know if my Iveco Daily clutch needs replacing?

Signs include slipping (engine revs increase but speed doesn't), difficulty engaging gears, a juddering clutch pedal, or a clutch pedal that feels too high or too low. If you experience a complete loss of drive, it's a strong indicator of a failed clutch.

Q2: Can I replace the clutch myself?

Clutch replacement is a complex and physically demanding task that requires specialised tools, a good understanding of vehicle mechanics, and a safe working environment (like a lift). If you are not an experienced mechanic, it is strongly recommended to have this job carried out by a professional technician.

Q3: Why is it important to mark the prop shaft flanges?

The prop shaft is balanced as part of the drivetrain. Marking the flanges before removal ensures that it can be reassembled in the same position, maintaining the original balance and preventing potential vibrations or drivetrain issues.

Q4: What is a dual-mass flywheel (DMF) and why might it need replacing?

A DMF is designed to absorb engine vibrations and improve driving comfort. However, it can be damaged by clutch slipping and overheating, as seen in this example. If the DMF shows signs of heat damage (discolouration), excessive play, or damaged springs, it should be replaced along with the clutch to ensure optimal performance and longevity of the new clutch components.

Q5: How much grease should I use on the input shaft and guide tube?

A light smear is sufficient. Excessive grease can be flung off by centrifugal force and contaminate the clutch friction surfaces, leading to slipping or other performance issues.

Replacing a clutch on a vehicle like the 2014 Iveco Daily 35C17 is a significant undertaking. By following these detailed steps, understanding the nuances of the pull-type clutch, and paying close attention to critical alignment and lubrication points, a successful repair can be achieved, restoring the vehicle's driveability and ensuring a reliable performance.