Nissan Qashqai Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing Your Nissan Qashqai's Rear Brake Pads: A DIY Guide

Keeping your Nissan Qashqai or Rogue Sport's braking system in top condition is paramount for safety and performance. This guide will walk you through the process of replacing the rear disc brake pads, a common maintenance task that can save you money and provide peace of mind. We'll also cover lubricating the caliper slider pins and offer insights into replacing rear rotors if they're showing signs of wear. This tutorial is specifically tailored for the second generation Qashqai (2014-2021) and its US counterpart, the Rogue Sport (2017-2021), but many of the principles apply to other Nissan and Renault models.

Essential Tools and Parts

Before you begin, gather the necessary tools and parts. Having everything ready will make the process smoother and more efficient. You will need:

• Lug nut wrench
• Floor jack
• Two jack stands
• 14mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet
• An "F" clamp (or a C-clamp)
• Brake caliper grease
• New rear brake pads (e.g., Power Stop 16-1393, Wagner ZD1393, DuraGo BP905 MS, Centric 103.09050, ACDelco Gold 17D905CH)
• Brake parts cleaner
• Wheel chocks
• Optional: New rear brake rotors (e.g., ACDelco Silver 18A1664A, DuraGo BR3134902, Raybestos 980113R, Centric 120.42077)
• Optional: New brake hardware clips
• Optional: 7mm Allen key wrench (for EPB models)
• Optional: OBD2 scanner with EPB service mode capability
• Optional: 17mm socket (for rotor replacement)
• Optional: Torque wrench

Safety First: Preparing the Vehicle

Safety is crucial when working on your vehicle. Start by driving the SUV onto a level surface. Ensure the transmission is in "Park" and the ignition is turned off. Crucially, the parking brake must NOT be engaged, as this will prevent you from removing the caliper. Place wheel chocks securely on both sides of the front tires to prevent any accidental rolling. Remove the plastic wheel cover or "hub cap" from the rear wheel and set it aside.

Slightly loosen the five lug nuts on the rear wheel by turning them about a quarter to half a turn counterclockwise using your lug wrench. This is best done while the wheel is still on the ground for leverage.

Lifting and Securing the Vehicle

Carefully raise the rear of the vehicle using your floor jack. Position the jack under the vehicle's frame rail if using a trolley jack, or under the pinch weld if using the car's supplied scissor jack. Once raised to a suitable height, securely support the vehicle with at least two jack stands. Place the jack stands under the frame rails, ensuring they are stable. Never rely solely on the jack to support the vehicle. For added safety, many DIY mechanics prefer to work on one wheel at a time, leaving the other wheels on the ground.

Wheel Removal and EPB Considerations

With the vehicle safely supported, spin off the lug nuts completely and keep them in a safe place. Carefully remove the rear wheel and tire. Some people like to place the removed wheel underneath the vehicle's frame as an extra safety precaution.

Electric Parking Brake (EPB) Models: If your Qashqai or Rogue Sport is equipped with an Electric Parking Brake (EPB), you'll need to retract the caliper piston differently. You have two main options:

1. OBD2 Scanner: Use a scanner that can put the EPB into "service" or "maintenance" mode. This electronically retracts the piston.
2. Manual Retraction: For models with a manually operated foot pedal parking brake, or if you're retracting an EPB manually, follow these steps with caution:
   1. Remove the two Torx T30 bolts securing the EPB motor to the caliper.
   2. Disconnect the electrical connector and remove the motor.
   3. Using a 7mm Allen key wrench or hex socket, rotate the ball screw actuator rod clockwise to retract it. Stop immediately if you see the piston moving outwards.
   4. Once fully retracted, use your "F" clamp and an old brake pad to slowly compress the caliper piston straight back into the caliper. If you encounter significant resistance, double-check that the parking brake is disengaged or consult a professional. Avoid forcing it.

Note: The exact procedure for manual EPB retraction can vary. Always verify the correct method for your specific model year. For standard manual parking brakes, the piston can usually be compressed directly with a clamp.

Removing the Caliper and Old Pads

Locate the caliper bracket. You'll need to remove the caliper itself to access the brake pads. The caliper is typically held in place by two bolts. On the 2020 Rogue Sport example, these were 14mm bolts. Loosen the bottom caliper bolt first by turning it clockwise (when viewed from the outside of the vehicle). Then, loosen the top caliper bolt in the same manner. You may need to use a standard 14mm wrench if the socket doesn't fit easily due to the brake fluid hose.

Once loosened, spin out the lower caliper bolt and slider pin combination. Be careful not to mix up the top and bottom bolts/pins, as they can differ. The top bolt/pin might need to be guided past the brake fluid hose. Carefully pull the rear caliper off the old brake pads and away from the bracket.

With the caliper removed, you can now pull the old brake pads out of the bracket. Pay attention to the position of the wear indicator bar (often called a "squeal bar") on the old pads; the new pads will have this in the same location.

Cleaning and Hardware Replacement

Inspect the caliper bracket. If your new pads came with replacement hardware (anti-rattle clips or pad abutment clips), carefully remove the old clips from the top and bottom of the bracket. Clean the bracket, rotor, lug studs, and surrounding areas with brake parts cleaner. Be cautious of brake dust and cleaning spray, as they can be harmful. Wear appropriate safety gear, such as gloves and a mask.

Apply a thin layer of brake grease to the new pad abutment clips where they will contact the bracket and the new brake pads. Be extremely careful not to get any grease on the friction surfaces of the rotor or the new pads themselves. Insert the new clips firmly into their positions in the bracket, ensuring they are fully seated.

Compressing the Caliper Piston

To fit the new, thicker brake pads, the caliper piston needs to be retracted. For vehicles with a manual parking brake, this is typically done using an "F" clamp. Place an old brake pad against the caliper piston to help distribute the pressure evenly. Begin to slowly tighten the "F" clamp in a clockwise direction.

As you compress the piston, periodically check the brake fluid reservoir in the engine bay. Twist off the cap and monitor the fluid level to prevent overflow. If it gets too high, you may need to carefully siphon some out using a clean syringe. Clean up any spilled brake fluid immediately, as it can damage paint. Ensure the piston retracts straight and doesn't bind. If you encounter significant resistance, re-check your parking brake status and the piston's alignment.

Once the piston is nearly flush with the rubber dust boot, stop compressing. Take care not to pinch or damage the dust boot.

Remember to replace the brake fluid reservoir cap securely once you've finished compressing the piston, as brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture from the air.

Rotor Replacement (If Necessary)

If you've noticed shuddering, vibration, or a general lack of stopping power when braking, your rear rotors may be warped or worn out. To replace the rotors:

1. Remove the two 17mm bolts located on the back of the caliper bracket.
2. Detach the bracket from the wheel hub.
3. Slide the old rotor off the lug studs.
4. Slide the new rotor into place, aligning it with the studs.
5. Position the bracket back over the hub and re-attach it using the two 17mm bolts.
6. If you have a torque wrench, tighten these bolts to the manufacturer's specification, typically around 62 lb-ft (84 N-m).

Installing the New Brake Pads

With the caliper piston retracted and the bracket ready, orientate the new brake pads correctly. Ensure the wear indicator bar is positioned at the bottom of the inner brake pad. Carefully insert the two new brake pads into the bracket. They should fit snugly.

Reassembling the Caliper and Slider Pins

For smooth caliper operation, the slider pins (also called guide pins) need to be lubricated. Apply a thin layer of brake grease to the smooth, non-threaded portions of each slider pin. Remember not to mix up the top and bottom pins if they are different.

Slide the top bolt/pin back into the upper hole of the caliper. Position the caliper so that the top pin slides into the rubber dust boot on the bracket. Carefully lower the caliper over the new brake pads and into the bracket. If the caliper feels tight, you may need to compress the piston slightly further.

Insert the bottom bolt/pin through the caliper and into its corresponding rubber dust boot on the bracket. Now, tighten both caliper bolts (top and bottom) by turning them counterclockwise using your 14mm socket and ratchet. Refer to your vehicle's service manual for the precise torque specification, but it's generally around 26 lb-ft (35 N-m) for rear caliper bolts.

Brake Fluid Bleeding (Optional but Recommended)

If your brake pedal feels spongy or soft, it might indicate air or moisture in the brake lines. Bleeding the brakes and flushing the old fluid with fresh DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid is a good idea. You'll need an 8mm wrench for the bleeder valve, typically located on the back of the caliper.

The general bleeding order is from the furthest caliper from the master cylinder to the closest: typically right rear, left rear, front right, and front left. Open the bleeder valve slightly, let the old fluid and air escape (using a bleeder bottle is highly recommended for a one-person job), and then close the valve. Torque specifications for bleeder valves are usually very low, around 73 lb-in (8.3 N-m).

Final Steps: Reinstalling the Wheel and Lowering the Vehicle

Carefully push the rear wheel and tire back onto the lug studs. Start threading the lug nuts by hand in a clockwise direction, ensuring they are not cross-threaded. Snug them up slightly with the lug wrench in a star or criss-cross pattern.

Now, carefully lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack. Once the wheel is firmly on the ground, fully tighten the lug nuts to the manufacturer's specified torque. This is typically around 76 lb-ft (103 N-m) for a Qashqai, but always check your owner's manual.

Post-Replacement Bedding-In

After replacing brake pads and/or rotors, it's important to "bed them in." This process helps to properly seat the new pad material against the rotor surface, ensuring optimal braking performance and longevity. Typically, this involves a series of moderate to firm stops from around 30-40 mph down to 10 mph, without coming to a complete halt. Avoid hard, panic stops for the first few hundred miles. Consult the brake pad manufacturer's instructions for specific bedding-in procedures.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q1: How often should I replace my rear brake pads?
It depends on driving conditions and habits, but typically rear brake pads need replacement every 30,000-50,000 miles. Regular inspections are key.

Q2: Can I just replace the brake pads without changing the rotors?
Yes, if the rotors are still within their minimum thickness specification and are not significantly grooved or warped. However, replacing them together often provides the best braking results.

Q3: What happens if I don't retract the EPB properly?
Forcing the piston back without retracting the EPB actuator can damage the EPB motor, the caliper, or the piston itself.

Q4: Is it safe to drive with worn brake pads?
No, worn brake pads significantly reduce braking effectiveness and can lead to rotor damage and potential brake failure, compromising your safety.

By following these steps, you can confidently replace the rear brake pads on your Nissan Qashqai or Rogue Sport, ensuring your vehicle remains safe and reliable on the road.

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