22/05/2022
Regular engine oil and filter changes are the lifeblood of your vehicle’s engine, ensuring its longevity and optimal performance. For owners of specific models like the 400 HO, understanding the unique aspects of its lubrication system is key to a successful DIY service. While the process might seem daunting at first, especially with the mention of a separate oil tank and a sump that may not need draining, it’s a perfectly manageable task that can save you money and give you a deeper understanding of your machine. This comprehensive guide will walk you through every step, ensuring you have all the knowledge to tackle this essential maintenance with confidence.

Why Engine Oil Changes Are Crucial
Engine oil serves multiple vital functions within your engine. Firstly, it provides essential lubrication to all moving parts, reducing friction and preventing wear. Without proper lubrication, metal-on-metal contact would quickly lead to catastrophic engine failure. Secondly, oil acts as a coolant, carrying heat away from critical engine components. Thirdly, it cleans the engine by suspending dirt, sludge, and microscopic metal particles, preventing them from accumulating and causing damage. Over time, engine oil degrades due to heat, contamination, and chemical breakdown. It loses its lubricating properties, becomes saturated with contaminants, and can no longer effectively protect your engine. Regular changes remove this degraded oil and replace it with fresh, clean oil, safeguarding your engine's health and preserving its performance.
Signs It's Time for an Oil Change
- Dashboard Light: Your oil change indicator light illuminates.
- Dark, Dirty Oil: Fresh oil is typically amber; old oil is dark and sludgy when checked with the dipstick.
- Engine Noise: Increased knocking or grinding sounds can indicate insufficient lubrication.
- Exhaust Smoke: Blue smoke from the exhaust can signify burning oil.
- Oil Smell Inside the Cabin: A strong oil smell might point to leaks or overheating oil.
- Reduced Performance: Sluggish acceleration or decreased fuel efficiency.
Understanding Your Polaris 400 HO's Oil System
The Polaris 400 HO has a distinctive oil system that requires specific attention. Unlike many conventional engines where the oil is contained entirely within the engine's sump, the 400 HO utilises a separate oil tank. This design is often found in dry-sump lubrication systems, which can offer benefits like better oil scavenging and reduced windage losses within the crankcase. Knowing the location of these components is paramount before you begin any work.
- Separate Oil Tank: Your 400 HO holds its engine oil in a dedicated tank located conveniently under the seat, specifically on the driver's side. This is where you'll primarily be draining the old oil from.
- Engine Sump Drain: There's also an engine sump drain, situated on the passenger side, underneath the flywheel cover. You'll find 'POLARIS' stamped near it. However, and this is a critical point, draining this sump is generally not necessary for a routine oil change. In fact, doing so might necessitate re-priming the oil pump, a procedure detailed in your owner's manual that can be complex. For a standard oil and filter change, focus on the separate oil tank.
Tools and Materials You'll Need
Before you get your hands dirty, gather all the necessary tools and new fluids. Having everything ready beforehand will make the process smoother and prevent frustrating interruptions.
- New Engine Oil: Always consult your owner's manual for the correct type, viscosity, and quantity of oil. Using the wrong oil can cause significant engine damage. For the 400 HO, ensure you have enough to refill the system.
- New Oil Filter: A fresh filter is just as important as fresh oil. It traps contaminants, preventing them from circulating through your engine.
- Drain Pan: A large capacity pan to collect the old oil. Make sure it can hold more than the total oil capacity of your engine to avoid spills.
- Funnel: Essential for cleanly pouring new oil into the tank.
- Shop Rags or Old Towels: Oil changes can be messy. Have plenty on hand for spills and clean-up.
- Gloves: Protect your hands from oil and other fluids.
- Safety Glasses: Always protect your eyes.
- Torque Wrench: Crucial for tightening drain plugs and the oil filter to the correct specifications, preventing both leaks and overtightening damage.
- Hex Sockets: You will need a 6mm hex socket and an 8mm hex socket.
- 8-inch Extension Bar: For reaching recessed drain plugs or the oil filter.
- 64mm Oil Filter Wrench: A specific wrench designed to fit your oil filter for easy removal and installation.
A Word of Caution: The drain plugs on your 400 HO are made of aluminium. This material is softer than steel and can strip very easily if you use the wrong tool or apply too much force. Always ensure you are using the correct size hex socket and exercise precision when tightening. A torque wrench is highly recommended to avoid overtightening.
Step-by-Step Oil and Filter Change Procedure
This process is messy, but with the right preparation and care, it's not difficult. Many owners find watching a few YouTube videos on the process for Polaris models prior to tackling it themselves to be incredibly helpful. While we can't provide links, a quick search will yield numerous visual guides.
Step 1: Preparation and Warm-Up
Ensure your vehicle is on a flat, level surface. It's often beneficial to run the engine for a few minutes (5-10 minutes) to bring the oil up to operating temperature. Warm oil flows more easily, which helps it drain more thoroughly, carrying more contaminants with it. However, be cautious as the oil will be hot.
Step 2: Locating the Oil Tank Drain Plug
Access the area under the seat on the driver's side where the separate oil tank is located. Identify the oil tank drain plug. This is your primary draining point.
Step 3: Draining the Old Oil
Place your drain pan directly underneath the oil tank drain plug. Using the appropriate hex socket (either 6mm or 8mm, depending on the specific plug size for the oil tank drain), carefully loosen and remove the drain plug. Allow the old oil to drain completely into the pan. This may take several minutes. Once the oil flow slows to a trickle, replace the drain plug. Remember the caution about aluminium plugs – tighten it gently by hand first, then use your torque wrench to the manufacturer's specified torque (consult your manual).
Important Note on the Engine Sump Drain: As advised, draining the engine sump (located on the passenger side under the flywheel cover with 'POLARIS' stamped on it) is generally not necessary for a routine oil change. Attempting to drain it may require re-priming the oil pump, a complex procedure best left to a professional unless specifically instructed by your service manual for a particular reason. Stick to draining the separate oil tank.
Step 4: Removing the Old Oil Filter
Locate the oil filter. It's usually a cylindrical canister. Place your drain pan beneath it, as some oil will inevitably spill when the filter is removed. Use your 64mm oil filter wrench to loosen the filter. Once it's loose, you can often unscrew it by hand. Be prepared for a small amount of oil to come out as you remove it. Wipe the mounting surface clean with a shop rag, ensuring no old gasket material remains.
Step 5: Installing the New Oil Filter
Before installing the new filter, apply a thin film of fresh engine oil to the rubber gasket of the new filter. This helps create a good seal and prevents the gasket from sticking or tearing. Screw the new filter on by hand until the gasket makes contact with the mounting surface. Then, tighten it according to the manufacturer's specifications – typically an additional 1/2 to 3/4 turn after gasket contact, or to a specific torque value if provided in your manual. Do not overtighten, as this can damage the filter or its housing.

Step 6: Adding New Engine Oil
Using your funnel, carefully pour the recommended amount and type of new engine oil into the oil tank. Your owner's manual will specify the exact capacity. It's usually better to add slightly less than the full amount initially, then check the level. Avoid overfilling.
Step 7: Checking the Oil Level
Once the new oil is added, replace the oil tank cap. Start the engine and let it run for a few minutes. This allows the new oil to circulate throughout the engine and fill the new oil filter. Turn off the engine and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle back into the tank. Then, check the oil level using the dipstick (refer to your manual for the correct procedure for your specific model – some require the engine to be cold, others warm). Add more oil in small increments if needed, until the level is within the 'full' or 'safe' range on the dipstick.
Step 8: Final Checks and Disposal
Double-check all drain plugs and the oil filter to ensure they are tight and not leaking. Look for any drips or puddles under the vehicle. Collect all the old oil in a sealed container. Do not dispose of used engine oil in household rubbish or pour it down drains. It is a hazardous waste. Take it to an authorised recycling centre, an auto parts store, or a garage that accepts used oil for proper disposal. Many municipal waste facilities also have collection points for used oil.
DIY vs. Professional Service: A Comparative Look
Deciding whether to perform an oil change yourself or take it to a professional workshop involves weighing several factors. Both options have their merits.
| Feature | DIY Oil Change | Professional Service |
|---|---|---|
| Cost | Typically lower (only cost of oil & filter) | Higher (labour + parts mark-up) |
| Convenience | Requires time, tools, and space; can be messy | Quick drop-off; no clean-up for you |
| Knowledge/Skill | Requires some mechanical aptitude & research | Performed by trained technicians |
| Control | Full control over oil type, filter brand, and process | Less control; rely on shop's choices |
| Satisfaction | Sense of accomplishment, deeper understanding of vehicle | Peace of mind, warranty protection (if applicable) |
| Tools Needed | Requires investment in specific tools | No tools needed by owner |
| Disposal | Responsible for proper disposal of old oil | Shop handles disposal |
| Time Commitment | Can take 30-60 minutes or more depending on experience | Often 15-30 minutes at shop |
Frequently Asked Questions About Engine Oil Changes
How often should I change my engine oil?
The frequency depends on several factors: your vehicle's manufacturer recommendations (check your owner's manual), the type of oil you use (conventional, synthetic blend, or full synthetic), and your driving conditions. Generally, conventional oil is changed every 3,000-5,000 miles or 3-6 months. Synthetic oils can often last 7,500-10,000 miles or even longer, up to a year. For vehicles like the 400 HO that might see more demanding off-road use, more frequent changes might be advisable, even with synthetic oil.
What kind of oil should I use for my 400 HO?
Always refer to your owner's manual for the precise oil specifications (viscosity, API service rating, and specific certifications). Using the wrong type of oil can lead to premature wear and potential engine damage. Polaris typically recommends specific oils for their engines, often a synthetic blend or full synthetic with a particular weight (e.g., 0W-40 or 5W-50). Do not deviate from these recommendations.
Do I need to change the oil filter every time I change the oil?
Absolutely yes. The oil filter traps contaminants. If you put fresh oil into an engine with a dirty, clogged filter, you negate much of the benefit of the oil change. A new filter ensures the fresh oil remains clean and effective for its full service life.
What if I accidentally overfill the oil?
Overfilling can be as detrimental as underfilling. Too much oil can cause aeration (foaming) when the crankshaft splashes into it, leading to reduced lubrication and potential damage to seals. If you've significantly overfilled, it's best to drain a small amount until the level is correct. You can often do this by slightly loosening the drain plug and letting a small amount trickle out, or by using a fluid extractor pump.
Can I mix different types or brands of oil?
While most modern oils are compatible to some extent, it's generally not recommended to mix different types (e.g., conventional with synthetic) or even different viscosities. Stick to one type and brand if possible, as manufacturers formulate their oils with specific additive packages that perform best when not diluted or altered by other formulations. If you must top up and only have a different oil available, ensure it meets the same specifications as your existing oil.
What should I do with the old oil?
Used engine oil is a hazardous waste and must be disposed of properly. Do not pour it down drains or into the ground. Collect it in a sealed, leak-proof container and take it to an authorised oil recycling centre, a local garage, or an auto parts store that accepts used oil. Most places will take it free of charge.
Conclusion
Changing your engine oil and filter is one of the most fundamental and impactful maintenance tasks you can perform for your vehicle. For your 400 HO, understanding its unique separate oil tank system and the caution regarding the engine sump drain is key. By following these steps and paying attention to detail, you not only save money but also gain invaluable insight into your machine's operation. Regular oil changes are a small investment in time and effort that pay significant dividends in the form of extended engine engine longevity, improved performance, and reliable operation. So, gather your tools, roll up your sleeves, and take pride in keeping your ride running smoothly for years to come.
If you want to read more articles similar to Your Guide to a Smooth Engine Oil Change, you can visit the Maintenance category.
