When did the Peugeot 207 come out?

Peugeot 207 Clutch Replacement: A Deep Dive

25/06/2009

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The Peugeot 207, launched in 2006 as the successor to the much-loved 206, quickly established itself as a popular choice on British roads. This 'Urban' hatchback, despite its modest in-car entertainment, gained a reputation for its impressively reliable engine, often sharing its platform principles with the Citroën C3. Even a dependable vehicle like the 207, however, is not immune to the wear and tear of its components, particularly the clutch, which is crucial for smooth power delivery and gear changes. This guide delves into the intricate process of replacing a clutch on a Peugeot 207 Sport fitted with a 1.4 four-cylinder petrol engine, drawing on the expertise of a Valeo Technical Trainer.

When did the Peugeot 207 come out?
This little sports hatchback was jampacked with fun when the original model launched in 2006. The Peugeot 207 was the successor to the 206 and was very similar in principle to the platform used for the Citroën C3.

Diagnosing the Dreaded Clutch Issues

Recently, a Peugeot 207 Sport with just over 59,000 miles on the clock presented a common but frustrating problem: difficult gear changes and a noticeable vibration through the clutch pedal. These are classic indicators of a failing clutch assembly. Before embarking on any repair, a thorough diagnosis is paramount. In this instance, the Valeo Technical Trainer conducted a comprehensive test drive, allowing him to experience the customer's reported issues firsthand. This crucial step confirmed the need for a clutch replacement, which was subsequently authorised by the vehicle owner.

Preparation: The First Step to a Successful Replacement

Once the diagnosis is confirmed and authorisation is granted, the groundwork for the replacement begins. Utilising online platforms like Valeo's TechAssist, and inputting the vehicle’s VIN, ensures that the correct clutch kit is sourced – a critical step to avoid compatibility issues. With the correct parts in hand, the vehicle can be prepared for the procedure. Starting with the vehicle on the floor, open the bonnet and systematically remove components that obstruct access to the top of the gearbox. This includes the battery, the ECU (which is typically mounted within a protective case), and the air intake ducting. Following this, the engine cover and the air filter box assembly should be removed. These initial steps are vital as they provide the necessary clearance to work on the gearbox from above.

The Delicate Dance of Gearbox Removal

With the top-side components cleared, attention turns to the gearbox itself. While the vehicle remains on the floor, disconnect the gear selector cables and linkage from the gearbox. This prevents any strain or damage to the cables during the removal process. At this point, it's also advisable to slacken off the gearbox mounting. Now, raise the vehicle to a comfortable working height, typically around waist level, to gain optimal access to the underside. Proceed to remove the gearbox bolts around the bell housing and the starter motor. It's a wise practice to leave one of the lower, larger bolts in place at this stage; this prevents the gearbox from inadvertently coming away from the engine, ensuring a safer working environment. The wheels and driveshaft hub nuts on both sides must be removed, followed by the plastic wheel arch liners, which often obscure access to vital components. To truly maximise working space around the gearbox, it’s necessary to remove the bottom subframe strut and the bottom cross bar. These components, while seemingly minor, can significantly impede the removal process.

Next, it’s time to drain the gearbox oil. Always have a suitable container ready to collect the old oil, ensuring environmentally responsible disposal. With the oil drained, disconnect both bottom wishbone ball joints and carefully remove the drive shafts from both sides. Another critical step is to disconnect the clutch slave cylinder from its mounting. Furthermore, and this is a common oversight that can lead to costly damage, remove the crank sensor from its mounting. Failing to do so almost guarantees it will be broken during the refitting of the gearbox. At this point, also remove the bottom exhaust mounting to allow for greater manoeuvreability.

Supporting the engine is crucial when removing the gearbox. In the case of the Peugeot 207, there is often no suitable contact area or support within the engine bay to allow for an engine cradle. Therefore, a transmission jack on the underside of the engine is the preferred method for support. With the engine securely supported, the final gearbox mounting bolts on the near-side mount bracket can be removed. Finally, remove the last bell housing bolt, and with careful manoeuvring, ease the gearbox out of its position. Once free, transport the gearbox to a safe working area for further inspection.

Unveiling the Root Cause: Release Arm and Flywheel Inspection

With the gearbox safely removed, attention shifts to the clutch assembly and its associated components. First, remove the release arm from its mounting, exercising care to gently detach it from the metal ball joint/pivot. In this particular instance, the release arm was found to be significantly worn, with the plastic ball socket/mounting (which fits over the metal ball joint) notably damaged. This finding is often a key indicator of underlying issues. Next, remove the entire clutch assembly from the flywheel. It is imperative at this stage to thoroughly inspect the flywheel for any signs of surface or heat damage, or indeed any other indications of wear. Check its integrity for hotspots or cracks. If there is any doubt whatsoever about the condition of the flywheel, it should be replaced.

In this specific Peugeot 207, the flywheel was a solid flywheel, a design known for its durability, having been used on the vehicle since its manufacture. True to its reputation, it was found to be in good condition, a testament to the longevity of solid flywheels. However, during the removal of the clutch, the technical trainer identified excessive preload wear to the fingers on the pressure plate. This specific type of wear is a direct consequence of a defective release arm, as the worn arm prevents proper disengagement and applies constant, uneven pressure. Recognizing this root cause is vital for a lasting repair. Upon discovering the damaged release arm and the resulting preload wear, the technical trainer and the garage technician contacted the customer, even sharing video footage of the worn component, and secured authorisation to replace the release arm. It is also highly recommended to replace the guide tube during clutch replacement due to the considerable wear and tear this cylindrical component can experience over time.

Precision Installation: Fitting Your New Clutch

Before fitting the new clutch, meticulous cleaning is essential. Clean the gearbox thoroughly, removing any dust or debris that may have accumulated. The input shaft should also be cleaned using a soft wire brush. Following this, spray brake cleaner onto a clean cloth and wipe the input shaft until it is spotless. The lubrication of the input shaft is a critical step that must be performed correctly. Open the sachet of grease provided with the new clutch kit and empty a small amount onto clean paper or card (note: not all the provided grease is typically needed). If no grease is supplied, use a high-pressure, high-temperature grease, such as a BR2 type grease. Crucially, do not use a copper-based grease. Using a fine brush, lubricate the gearbox input shaft with grease. It is extremely important not to apply grease onto the input shaft using your fingers, as this can lead to excessive grease radiating outwards when the clutch is in use. Similarly, do not apply grease directly to the clutch friction plate, as this will also cause excessive grease to contaminate the friction material.

Once lubricated, use a clutch alignment tool (often supplied with the clutch kit) to mount the drive plate to the clutch pressure plate. This tool ensures the friction plate is perfectly centred, which is vital for smooth gearbox reinstallation. Carefully bolt the clutch assembly to the flywheel. When tightening these bolts, it is paramount to adhere to the vehicle manufacturer’s torque specifications and to tighten them in an even and sequential order. This ensures correct and uniform installation, preventing warping or uneven pressure on the clutch assembly.

Reassembly and Final Checks

With the new clutch assembly securely in place, the process of reassembling the vehicle begins in the reverse order of disassembly. Carefully refit the gearbox, ensuring it aligns perfectly with the engine. Reconnect all components, including the driveshafts, wishbone ball joints, subframe, and exhaust mounting. Remember to refit the crank sensor and the clutch slave cylinder. Refill the gearbox oil according to the manufacturer’s specific recommendations. This is not a step to be overlooked or substituted, as using the incorrect gear oil can lead to difficult gear selection issues and premature wear of gearbox components. Once the vehicle is back on the ground, re-torque the hub nuts and wheel nuts to the manufacturer’s specified settings. Finally, and perhaps most importantly, carry out a comprehensive road test. This test drive allows you to confirm that the clutch operation is smooth, gear changes are precise, and all issues encountered by the customer have been effectively resolved.

Expert Advice: Top Tips for a Flawless Clutch Job

To ensure a successful and long-lasting clutch replacement, keep these expert tips from the TechCare Engineer in mind:

  • Correct Alignment Tool: To minimise the risk of potential spine damage and ensure proper installation, always use the correct clutch alignment tool when fitting the clutch assembly. Ensure the gearbox is fitted perfectly in line with the engine.
  • Renew the Guide Tube: Always replace the guide tube during clutch replacement. This cylindrical component experiences significant wear and tear, and a worn guide tube can compromise the smooth operation of the release bearing.
  • Correct Gear Oil is Critical: It is absolutely essential to use the exact gear oil specified by the manufacturer. Incorrect oil viscosity or additives can lead to difficult gear selection, increased friction, and premature wear of gearbox internals.
  • Inspect the Release Arm: Thoroughly check the integrity of the release arm, paying particular attention to the plastic moulded ball socket that pivots on the gearbox mounting. Replace any wearing parts, bushes, or the entire arm if any damage or excessive wear is noted.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Q: How often should a Peugeot 207 clutch be replaced?
A: Clutch life varies significantly based on driving style and conditions. While the example in this article saw a clutch replaced at around 59,000 miles, some clutches can last over 100,000 miles, while others might fail much sooner in stop-start traffic or with aggressive driving. Look for symptoms of wear rather than relying solely on mileage.

Q: What are the common signs of a failing clutch in a Peugeot 207?
A: Key indicators include difficulty changing gears, a clutch pedal that feels stiff, spongy, or vibrates excessively, slipping (where the engine revs but the car doesn't accelerate proportionally), or a burning smell, especially when accelerating.

Q: Why is the release arm so important in clutch operation?
A: The release arm, or clutch fork, is a critical component that transfers the movement from the clutch slave cylinder to the release bearing. If it's worn or damaged, it can lead to improper disengagement, causing 'preload wear' on the pressure plate fingers and affecting gear changes and pedal feel.

Q: Can I use any grease for the gearbox input shaft during clutch replacement?
A: No, absolutely not. It's crucial to use the grease supplied with the new clutch kit or a specific high-pressure, high-temperature grease like BR2 type. Avoid copper-based greases. Improper grease can lead to contamination of the clutch friction plate, causing slipping, or can break down under heat, leading to premature wear.

Q: What is 'preload wear' on a clutch?
A: Preload wear refers to premature wear on the clutch pressure plate fingers (diaphragm spring) caused by constant, slight pressure from the release bearing. This often happens when the release arm or guide tube is worn, preventing the release bearing from fully retracting, thus maintaining light contact with the pressure plate even when the clutch pedal is not depressed. This continuous friction leads to accelerated wear.

Q: Why is using the correct gearbox oil crucial after a clutch replacement?
A: Gearbox oil lubricates the internal components of the transmission, ensuring smooth gear changes and preventing wear. Using the wrong type, viscosity, or amount of oil can lead to increased friction, difficult gear selection, grinding noises, and ultimately, premature failure of the gearbox itself. Always refer to the manufacturer's specifications.

SymptomPossible Clutch Component Issue
Difficult Gear ChangesWorn pressure plate, worn release arm, incorrect gear oil, faulty slave/master cylinder
Vibration Through PedalWorn release bearing, damaged pressure plate, flywheel issues, worn release arm
Clutch SlipWorn friction plate, oil contamination, weak pressure plate
Grinding NoisesWorn release bearing, damaged pilot bearing, misaligned gearbox
Stiff Clutch PedalWorn clutch cable (if applicable), seized release arm, pressure plate issues, faulty master cylinder

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