How do you drain oil from a Pajero?

Beyond the Sump: A Full Gearbox Oil Change

06/03/2001

Rating: 3.97 (11612 votes)

When it comes to maintaining your automatic car's gearbox, many drivers mistakenly believe that an oil change is as straightforward as draining the sump and refilling. However, for a truly effective and comprehensive service, there's far more to consider than just the fluid held within the gearbox casing itself. A significant portion of the old, degraded oil resides in components often overlooked during a basic drain-and-fill procedure. Understanding where this 'hidden' oil lurks is paramount to ensuring your gearbox receives the full refresh it needs to operate smoothly and reliably for years to come.

What engine oil for Mitsubishi Pajero / Shogun classic 170 hp?
For the MITSUBISHI Pajero / Shogun Classic 3.2 DI-D (V68W, V78W) Diesel 170 hp, the manufacturer recommends using engine oils type with the following specifications: ACEA C3, ACEA A3/B4, ACEA A5/B5 What oil for MITSUBISHI Pajero / Shogun Classic 3.2 DI-D (V68W, V78W) Diesel 170 hp?
Table

Understanding Your Automatic Gearbox's Lubrication System

An automatic gearbox is a marvel of engineering, relying on hydraulic pressure and precise lubrication to manage power delivery from the engine to the wheels. Unlike a manual gearbox, which primarily uses oil for lubrication of gears and bearings, an automatic gearbox uses its fluid – often referred to as Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) – for a multitude of critical functions. This includes lubricating internal components, cooling the gearbox, and, crucially, acting as a hydraulic medium to transmit power through the torque converter and actuate the clutches and bands that facilitate gear changes. Given these multifaceted roles, the quality and quantity of ATF are vital.

Over time, ATF degrades due to heat, friction, and contamination. It loses its lubricating properties, its viscosity can change, and it can accumulate metal particles and clutch material, all of which compromise the gearbox's performance and longevity. A complete oil change aims to remove as much of this old, contaminated fluid as possible, replacing it with fresh, high-quality ATF.

The Hidden Reservoirs: Beyond the Sump

The misconception that a gearbox oil change only involves the fluid in the sump leads many to perform an incomplete service. The reality is that a substantial volume of ATF is distributed throughout several interconnected components that are not emptied by simply pulling a drain plug. These 'hidden' reservoirs are critical to understand:

The Torque Converter: The Heart of the System

Perhaps the largest and most significant hidden reservoir is the torque converter. This fluid coupling device, which replaces a traditional clutch in automatic vehicles, is constantly filled with ATF. It's designed to transmit engine torque to the gearbox input shaft, allowing the engine to idle while the car is stationary and providing a smooth transition of power when accelerating. Due to its design, the torque converter typically retains a substantial amount – often 50% or more – of the old ATF, even after the gearbox sump has been drained. Unless specific measures are taken to flush or drain the torque converter, a significant portion of degraded fluid will remain in the system, immediately contaminating the new ATF and reducing the effectiveness of the service.

The Gearbox Cooler and Its Lines

Heat is the enemy of any lubricant, and ATF is no exception. Automatic gearboxes generate considerable heat during operation, which needs to be dissipated to prevent fluid degradation and component damage. This is where the gearbox cooler comes into play. Integrated into the vehicle's cooling system (often within the main radiator or as a separate external unit), the cooler circulates ATF to lower its temperature. The cooler itself, along with the lines that connect it to the gearbox, contains a significant volume of fluid. Like the torque converter, this fluid does not drain when the sump is emptied. Neglecting to flush these components means leaving behind more old, potentially sludgy, and overheated fluid that will quickly mix with and contaminate the fresh ATF.

Valve Body and Internal Passages

While not holding as much volume as the torque converter or cooler, the complex network of passages within the valve body and other internal components of the gearbox also retain old fluid. The valve body is essentially the 'brain' of the automatic gearbox, directing ATF pressure to various clutch packs and bands to facilitate gear changes. Its intricate design, with numerous small channels and valves, ensures that a certain amount of old fluid will always remain trapped unless a thorough flushing procedure is performed.

The Crucial Role of the Transmission Filter

Beyond the fluid itself, the gearbox's health is heavily reliant on its filter. The transmission filter is designed to capture metal particles, clutch material, and other debris that are inevitably generated during the normal operation of the gearbox. Over time, this filter becomes clogged, restricting fluid flow and reducing the effectiveness of the lubrication and cooling systems. A restricted filter can lead to overheating, reduced hydraulic pressure, and ultimately, accelerated wear on internal components.

Therefore, simply draining and refilling the fluid without changing the filter is a half-measure. The old, clogged filter will continue to impede fluid circulation and may even release trapped contaminants back into the newly added ATF. A proper gearbox service, particularly at the scheduled drain interval, absolutely requires the replacement of the transmission filter to ensure optimal performance and protection.

Traditional Drain vs. Full Flush: A Comparison

Understanding where the oil resides highlights the fundamental difference between a 'drain and fill' and a 'full flush' (or fluid exchange) for an automatic gearbox:

FeatureTraditional Drain & FillFull Flush (Fluid Exchange)
Fluid RemovedTypically 30-50% (only from sump)Typically 90-100% (from entire system)
Components DrainedGearbox sump onlySump, torque converter, cooler, lines, valve body
Contamination RiskHigh (new fluid immediately mixes with old)Low (system is thoroughly cleaned)
Filter ChangeOften possible, but not always doneEssential part of the procedure
CostLower initial costHigher initial cost
EffectivenessPartial refresh, limited benefitComprehensive renewal, maximum benefit
Recommended ForMinor top-ups, very frequent changesScheduled service, addressing fluid degradation

A full flush involves using specialised equipment to pump new ATF through the entire system, pushing out the old fluid until only clean fluid circulates. This method ensures that the torque converter, cooler, and all lines are thoroughly purged of old, contaminated fluid, providing a far more complete and beneficial service for your gearbox. While more expensive upfront, it offers superior protection and can significantly contribute to the longevity and smooth operation of your transmission.

Signs Your Gearbox Needs Attention

Beyond mileage intervals (which typically range from 40,000 to 100,000 miles, depending on the manufacturer and driving conditions), several symptoms can indicate your gearbox fluid is degraded and needs changing:

  • Rough or delayed shifts: The gearbox hesitates or clunks when changing gears.
  • Slipping gears: The engine revs increase, but the car doesn't accelerate proportionally.
  • Unusual noises: Whining, humming, or grinding sounds coming from the gearbox area.
  • Overheating: A transmission temperature warning light illuminates.
  • Leaking fluid: Puddles of red or brown fluid under your car.
  • Dark or burnt-smelling fluid: When checking the dipstick, the ATF appears dark brown or black and has a strong, burnt odour. Fresh ATF is usually red or bright pink and has a slightly sweet smell.

Ignoring these signs can lead to costly gearbox repairs or even complete failure.

The Importance of Correct ATF and Fill Level

Choosing the correct type of ATF is just as crucial as performing the change itself. Different gearboxes require specific ATF formulations (e.g., Dexron, Mercon, ATF+4, specific OEM fluids). Using the wrong fluid can lead to severe damage as it may not provide the correct friction properties, viscosity, or thermal stability required by your gearbox. Always consult your vehicle's owner's manual or a reputable mechanic to ensure the correct ATF is used. Furthermore, maintaining the correct fluid level is vital for proper gearbox operation and lubrication. Both overfilling and underfilling can cause problems, ranging from foaming and overheating to reduced hydraulic pressure and component wear.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

How often should I change my automatic gearbox oil?

Service intervals vary significantly by manufacturer, vehicle model, and driving conditions. Generally, it's recommended every 40,000 to 100,000 miles. For heavy-duty use (towing, frequent stop-and-go traffic, very hot climates), more frequent changes may be necessary. Always refer to your car's owner's manual for the specific recommendation.

Can I change my gearbox oil myself?

While a simple drain and fill can be attempted by a competent DIY enthusiast, a full flush requires specialised equipment and knowledge. Modern automatic gearboxes are complex, and incorrect procedures or using the wrong fluid can cause serious damage. For a comprehensive service, it's highly recommended to consult a professional mechanic.

What happens if I don't change my gearbox oil?

Over time, the ATF degrades, losing its lubricating, cooling, and hydraulic properties. This leads to increased friction, overheating, wear on internal components, rough shifting, slipping, and eventually, costly gearbox failure. Neglecting fluid changes is a leading cause of automatic gearbox problems.

Is gearbox oil the same as engine oil?

No, absolutely not. Gearbox oil (ATF) and engine oil are formulated for entirely different purposes with distinct chemical properties and additives. Using engine oil in an automatic gearbox or vice-versa would lead to immediate and severe damage to the respective components.

Do manual gearboxes need oil changes too?

Yes, manual gearboxes also require oil changes, though typically less frequently than automatics. Manual transmission fluid (or gear oil) lubricates the gears, bearings, and synchronizers. While they don't have a torque converter or hydraulic system like automatics, the fluid still degrades over time and needs periodic replacement as per the manufacturer's recommendations.

Conclusion

A truly effective gearbox oil change goes far beyond merely draining the sump. The significant volumes of fluid retained within the torque converter, the cooler, and the connecting lines, coupled with the critical need to replace the transmission filter, highlight the importance of a comprehensive service. Opting for a full flush rather than a simple drain and fill can provide superior protection, smoother operation, and significantly extend the life of your automatic gearbox. Investing in proper gearbox maintenance is an investment in your vehicle's long-term reliability and your peace of mind on the road.

If you want to read more articles similar to Beyond the Sump: A Full Gearbox Oil Change, you can visit the Automotive category.

Go up