The Sommelier's Journey: A History Uncorked

The image of a modern sommelier is one of refined expertise, effortlessly guiding diners through an extensive wine list, recommending the perfect pairing, and executing a flawless pour. Yet, this sophisticated profession boasts a surprisingly rich and complex history, far removed from the polished dining rooms of today. The journey of the sommelier, from ancient cargo master to a celebrated expert in beverages, is a captivating tale of evolving responsibilities, societal shifts, and a relentless pursuit of excellence.

The Etymological Roots of "Sommelier"

To truly understand the sommelier, we must first delve into the origins of the word itself. The term 'sommelier' has its roots in the Old French word 'sommier', which referred to a pack animal, specifically a beast of burden. These 'sommiers' were essential for transporting all manner of goods, from provisions to personal belongings.

Over time, the word 'sommier' evolved, first to denote the load carried by the animal, then the chests or coffers these pack animals transported, and finally, the individual responsible for these chests. During the Middle Ages, the 'sommier du seigneur' emerged as an officer tasked with the transportation of all the objects that accompanied princes and lords on their campaigns. This role was crucial, ensuring that the noble household's necessities were always at hand, wherever they travelled.

The word 'sommelier' itself eventually appeared, referring to the wagon drivers who transported these 'sommiers'. Its lineage can be traced back to the medieval Latin 'summularius', meaning an officer in charge of provisions and material. The term 'sommelier' was officially recognised and formalised by royal ordinance in 1318 by King Philippe V of France, marking a significant moment in the profession's history.

Beyond the esteemed Grand Echanson – the officer responsible for serving drinks directly to a Prince or King – royal and princely courts would now also feature the Sommelier. This court officer was charged with setting the table and preparing the service, an essential role in the elaborate rituals of noble dining. The duties of the sommelier soon diversified, extending beyond the dining table to other crucial court functions:

• Sommelier d'armes: An officer of the King's household responsible for the King's or Princes' personal weapons.
• Sommelier de la paneterie: Served under the Grand Panetier, the officer in charge of serving bread to the King.
• Sommelier de l'échansonnerie: Served wine under the orders of the Grand Echanson, specifically in charge of the ewer and two silver vessels, one for water and one for wine.

Subsequently, the term 'sommellerie' came to denote not only the charge and function of the sommelier but also the physical place or furniture where the entrusted objects were stored and kept.

Medieval Royal Courts: A Ritual of Service

During the Middle Ages, the serving of wine and water to a lord was a highly ritualised affair, far beyond a simple pour. The Échanson, by ancient tradition, was the one who poured the drink. At the French royal court, this function was considered one of the noblest charges, reserved for trusted individuals from the nobility, who were guardians of tradition and protectors against poisoning.

A vivid insight into this elaborate ceremonial comes from Olivier de la Marche's famous treatise, "L'état de la maison du duc Charles de Bourgogne dit le Hardy" (Charles the Bold). As a maître d'hôtel, de la Marche not only communicated the duke's culinary desires to the kitchens but meticulously organised the entire service of food and drink. The wine service, in particular, was orchestrated like a ballet, with each person having a specific rank, place, and function.

Consider this excerpt illustrating the precision of the wine service:

"When the table is set and the panetier has completed his work, the usher of the hall goes to fetch the échanson who is to serve for the day, and leads him to the échansonnerie. There, the linen-keeper provides the covered goblet, which the échanson takes by the foot in his right hand, and in his left hand he holds a cup; at the same time as the goblet and the cup, the linen-keeper gives the basins, pots, and ewers for the prince to the sommelier, who washes and cleans them; and the sommelier gives the goblet to the échanson, who positions himself after the usher of the hall, who carries the hanging basins in his left hand. And after the échanson walks the sommelier de l'échansonnerie, who must carry in his right hand two silver pots, one for the prince's wine and the other for water. And the prince's pot must be recognised by a piece of unicorn horn hanging from it with a chain. The sommelier must carry in his left hand one cup, and no more, and in this cup must be laid the ewer for serving water. This cup that the sommelier carries is used for the tasting that the échanson gives him. After the sommelier comes the aide who must carry the pots and cups for the prince's buffet."

Every object, every gesture, was precisely defined, forming a true ritual. A major underlying reason for such meticulousness was the pervasive fear of poisoning. The process involved multiple tastings and assurances before the drink reached the prince. At this time, only one goblet (drinking glass) was used, and the échanson was responsible for serving wine, often diluted with water according to the prince's taste.

The Birth of the Modern Sommelier: Post-Revolution to Belle Époque

The landscape of dining and service underwent a dramatic transformation after the French Revolution in 1789. The decline of the aristocracy and the rise of the bourgeoisie led to the emergence of public restaurants. This new culinary environment created a demand for professional service that transcended the royal courts.

It was from the 18th century onwards, and particularly in the 19th century during the opulent Belle Époque, that the art of serving wine truly came into its own. With the proliferation of restaurants catering to a discerning public, the need for specialists in wine became apparent. The profession of sommelier, as we recognise its foundational elements today, was well and truly born.

Pre-World War II: Cellar Master & Emerging Expertise

In the early 20th century, up until the inter-war period, the sommelier's role encompassed responsibilities that are now largely obsolete. One of the primary functions was the meticulous conservation and care of wines stored in restaurant cellars. At this time, wines were frequently sold in barrels, often at early stages of their production. This meant that restaurant owners, and by extension their sommeliers, were responsible for operations now handled by producers, such as bottling, filtration, sulfating, and fining.

Furthermore, sommeliers had to possess a profound understanding of potential wine ailments that could strike during barrel storage. Their expertise was crucial in preventing, identifying, and, if possible, curing these diseases. This demanded significant oenological knowledge and practical skill, making them highly qualified cellar workers.

Formal schooling in sommellerie was non-existent. Training was predominantly "on the job," passed down from experienced elders. However, for those in Paris, the Union des Sommeliers de Paris, founded in 1907, provided weekly oenology courses under the guidance of Raymond Brunet, an agricultural engineer and prolific wine author.

Interestingly, the "client advisory" aspect of the role was far less developed. The concept of harmonising wine flavours with cuisine only gained prominence as a gastronomic standard in the 1920s and 1930s. Georges Sachet, recalling his beginnings as a sommelier at Marguery in 1926, noted: "In the past, people were less knowledgeable. They drank wine, sometimes the best, without any information on the grape variety, terroir, vinification, cru or château. But what they wanted, they ordered, and they stuck to it. The sommelier had to serve the client well, take care of them, be completely devoted: the client demanded impeccable service. The sommelier didn't need as much knowledge as today."

The Crisis Years (1930-1970)

From the 1930s until the late 1960s, the sommelier profession entered a profound period of crisis. The economic depression of the 1930s hit restaurants hard, forcing them to cut operational costs. The utility of sommeliers within the staff hierarchy became a pressing question. Traditional sommelier functions, such as handling and serving, were increasingly seen as less specialised and could be easily absorbed by other employees. This led to a gradual replacement of sommeliers by versatile maître d's and waiters who provided a combined service of food and wine.

According to Bacchus International (a publication of the Union Française de la Sommellerie) in January 1973, the number of sommeliers in Paris plummeted from an estimated nine hundred in 1930-1932 to roughly fifty by the 1960s. Paul Brunet, an author of a sommelier's manual in 1987, corroborated this drastic decline.

Georges Sachet further emphasised the challenging environment: "The staff of that era [in the 1950s-60s] was very hostile to the sommelier function. They considered him a superfluous employee, without foundation in the service hierarchy, and taking a share of the tronc [tip pool] they would have preferred to keep for themselves. (...) For too long, we were considered pariahs of the restaurant industry. Not only by bosses, who still don't understand the utility of a sommelier, but also by some staff members who saw us as competing waiters." By the end of the 1960s, the sommelier profession appeared to be on the verge of extinction, surviving only in isolated pockets within a few ultra-luxury establishments.

The Resurgence and Redefinition (1970s onwards)

In the late 1960s, a determined group of sommeliers embarked on a mission to rescue their profession, striving to redefine its image and functions. They acknowledged the irreversible decline of the "sommelier-caviste" role, where hands-on cellar management was paramount. Gilbert Letort, a former president of the UDSF, articulated this shift: "The handling aspect of the profession (bottling, wine treatment) is gradually fading. It is no longer essential for a sommelier to know and be able to treat wine diseases in barrels." The focus was now firmly on expertise in service and client advice.

Institutionalisation and Professional Bodies

To advocate for their interests and elevate the profession, sommeliers formed institutional bodies. Regional associations, such as the Association des Sommeliers de Paris (ASP) and the Association des Sommeliers de Lyon et de Rhône-Alpes (ALSERA), emerged. These regional groups then federated nationally into the Union de la Sommellerie Française (UDSF), founded in 1969 (declared in 1970). The UDSF's objectives were clear: to unite regional sommelier associations, harmonise their activities for the profession's development and improvement, enhance the sommelier's image, uphold its ethics, and protect the reputation of French sommellerie. The UDSF is a non-profit organisation and a proud member of the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale (ASI).

Notable presidents who have steered the UDSF include:

• 2016 - ....: Mr Philippe Faure-Brac
• 2011- 2016: Mr Hermet Michel
• 2004 - 2011: Mr Serge Dubs
• 1996 - 2004: Mr Georges Pertuiset
• 1985 - 1996: Mr Jean Frambourt
• 1979 - 1985: Mr Gilbert Letort
• 1975 - 1979: Mr Roger Borgeot
• 1970 - 1975: Mr Louis Lebail

The grape cluster serves as one of two insignias identifying a sommelier and a Maître Sommelier of the UDSF. A Maître Sommelier signifies over 10 years of experience and recognition by the Bureau des Maîtres Sommeliers, a mark of true distinction within the profession.

Competitions: Showcasing Excellence

A crucial strategy for demonstrating the sommelier's utility and competence was the establishment of professional competitions. These high-profile events not only honed skills but also brought the profession into the public eye, showcasing its intellectual and practical demands. The first, "Meilleur Sommelier de France" (Best Sommelier of France), was created in 1961. This was followed by the "Trophée du Meilleur Jeune Sommelier de France" in 1979, sponsored by Champagne Ruinart. Global recognition arrived with the "Meilleur Sommelier du Monde" (Best Sommelier of the World) in 1983, and "Meilleur Sommelier d'Europe" (Best Sommelier of Europe) in 1988.

These competitions typically involve similar rigorous stages:

• Theoretical Examination: A written questionnaire testing extensive knowledge of viticulture, oenology, and wine geography, including ampelography (the science of grape varieties).
• Practical Tests: Directly related to daily professional tasks, such as decanting a bottle, conversing in a foreign language, or correcting an erroneous wine list.
• Blind Tasting: Perhaps the most famous and publicised event, where competitors verbally describe the characteristics of a wine and attempt to identify it without seeing the label. The suspense and mysterious nature of this test have significantly contributed to the sommelier's public recognition.

Professional Training and Qualifications

Parallel to competitions, efforts were made to establish formal professional training and diplomas recognised by the National Education system. By the late 1960s, hotel schools began offering introductory tasting courses, often in collaboration with the Institut Technique de la Vigne (I.T.V.).

It wasn't until 1980 that a dedicated CAP d'employé sommelier (Certificate of Professional Aptitude for Sommelier Employee) was created. This defined the sommelier as a "qualified worker whose essential activity is to provide customers with beverages corresponding to their needs." Programmes included sensory analysis to "describe a wine and determine its eventual faults," and courses on wine geography and production to help identify origins and characteristics. However, this specialised CAP was deemed a failure, as it was too narrow in scope.

It was replaced in 1985 by a "Mention Complémentaire d'employé sommelier" (Supplementary Mention for Sommelier Employee). As its name suggests, this qualification supplemented existing hospitality and catering service training, producing versatile service employees with added wine service skills, rather than dedicated sommeliers.

The Brevet Professionnel (BP) Sommelier, established by decree on 3 August 1995, represented a significant step forward. This higher-level qualification is designed for professionals working in gastronomic restaurants with both French and international clientele, necessitating proficiency in at least one foreign language. Its requirements were defined in consultation with the UDSF.

To enter, candidates need 400 hours of training and either a Baccalaureate, CAP, or BEP in catering professions with two years of professional experience, or five years of professional experience without a diploma. The two-year apprenticeship programme focuses on comprehensive skills:

• Organise: Determine staffing needs, plan equipment, participate in purchasing, design wine/beverage lists, manage cellars, allocate tasks.
• Manage & Control: Select beverages, make purchase proposals, receive and control deliveries, optimise selection, promote sales, analyse sales, control and inventory stock.
• Realise: Taste beverages, update beverage lists, perform various set-ups, take and serve beverage orders, ensure end-of-service operations.
• Communicate & Commercialise: Integrate and lead a team, welcome and advise clients (potentially in a foreign language), optimise sales, and build customer loyalty.

The sommelier, with this qualification, is responsible for client advice, sales, and/or beverage service, also overseeing purchasing, supply, and cellar management. They collaborate with management to define and implement commercial policy, enhancing the establishment's brand image through their specialist knowledge. This diploma opens doors to roles such as Sommelier, Assistant Sommelier, or Head Sommelier in high-end gastronomic restaurants worldwide, luxury food retail, and wine/alcohol departments in larger retail chains. There is currently a strong demand for personnel with this qualification.

Challenges in the New Millennium (2000s)

Despite the resurgence, the 2000s and 2010s presented new challenges for the sommelier profession in France. The number of sommellerie training centres halved, even as the profession grew significantly outside French, and indeed European, borders. This led to an internal debate and an identity crisis: "Is the sommelier merely a restaurant employee?" Some championed the sommelier in restaurants, while others advocated for sommeliers working in wine shops or as wine consultants for various businesses, including large retailers. This period also saw a shift towards sommeliers using less technical language, aiming to be more approachable and breaking free from the rigid "black apron" stereotype.

A notable divergence occurred within the Union de la Sommellerie Française (UDSF), leading to the creation of "L'Association des Sommeliers d'Europe" in November 2004, officially registered in Luxembourg in 2008. This split underscored the evolving and sometimes differing visions for the profession's future.

Key Dates in Sommellerie History

Sommelier Qualifications in France

Frequently Asked Questions About the Sommelier Profession

Here are some common questions regarding the history and evolution of the sommelier:

What does "sommelier" mean?

The word "sommelier" originated from the Old French "sommier," meaning a pack animal or beast of burden. It evolved to refer to the person responsible for transporting and managing cargo, particularly provisions, for noble households. Today, it denotes a trained and knowledgeable wine and beverage professional.

When did the sommelier profession begin?

While the role of managing provisions existed much earlier, the word "sommelier" officially appeared by royal ordinance in 1318 by King Philippe V of France, formalising a specific court officer role.

What was the sommelier's role in medieval courts?

In medieval courts, the sommelier was an officer responsible for setting the table and preparing service, often working alongside the Grand Echanson. Their duties also extended to managing the transport of goods (sommelier du seigneur) and specific areas like weapons (sommelier d'armes) or bread (sommelier de la paneterie), and crucially, wine and water (sommelier de l'échansonnerie) in an era of elaborate rituals and fear of poisoning.

How did the sommelier profession change after the French Revolution?

The French Revolution led to the decline of aristocratic courts and the rise of public restaurants. This shift created a demand for professional wine service in commercial settings, moving the sommelier's role from court official to a specialist in fine dining establishments.

What challenges did sommeliers face in the mid-20th century?

From the 1930s to the 1960s, the profession faced a severe crisis due to economic depression and cost-cutting in restaurants. Sommeliers were often replaced by versatile maître d's or waiters, and their numbers drastically declined. There was also internal resistance from other restaurant staff who viewed them as superfluous.

How are sommeliers trained today?

Today, sommeliers undergo rigorous professional training, particularly through qualifications like the Brevet Professionnel (BP) Sommelier in France. This training covers extensive knowledge of viticulture, oenology, cellar management, purchasing, sales, and client advisory skills, often including foreign language proficiency. Competitions also play a significant role in professional development and recognition.

What is the UDSF?

The UDSF, or Union de la Sommellerie Française, is a national non-profit association founded in 1969. It aims to unite regional sommelier associations, harmonise their activities, promote the profession, maintain its ethical standards, and protect the image of French sommellerie. It is also a member of the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale (ASI).

What is a "Maître Sommelier"?

A "Maître Sommelier" (Master Sommelier) within the UDSF is a sommelier with over 10 years of professional experience who has been officially recognised by the Bureau des Maîtres Sommeliers. It signifies a high level of expertise and dedication to the profession, often symbolised by a specific grape cluster insignia.

From its humble beginnings managing the provisions carried by pack animals to its current status as a highly respected and sought-after profession, the sommelier's journey reflects centuries of culinary and societal evolution. Despite periods of crisis, the dedication of professionals and the establishment of robust training and recognition systems have ensured that the sommelier remains an indispensable part of the finest dining experiences worldwide, a true guardian of the bottle and a guide to the world of wine.

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