GT-R Clicking Noise: The Fix

The Nissan GT-R, often hailed as a "supercar killer," is renowned for its blistering performance and advanced engineering. However, even the most impressive machines can develop quirks. One particularly irksome issue that some GT-R owners encounter is a distinct "click-click-click" sound that emanates from the front wheels during low-speed, full-lock turns. This noise can be quite unsettling, especially when it mimics the tell-tale sound of worn CV joints, leading many to believe their supercar is about to suffer a major mechanical failure. Fortunately, as this article will detail, the cause is often less severe, though it requires a meticulous approach to resolve.

Understanding the "Click-Click-Click" Phenomenon

The sensation is often described as a disconcerting rattle or a rapid clicking, most prominent when manoeuvring in tight spaces like car parks or during initial pulls from a standstill with the steering wheel fully turned. While the immediate suspicion might fall on the Constant Velocity (CV) joints, especially given the GT-R's all-wheel-drive system, the reality for many owners points towards a different, albeit related, culprit: the interface between the wheel hub and the brake rotor. The noise typically doesn't manifest during high-speed cornering, which further suggests it's not a fundamental drivetrain issue but rather something related to the static or low-speed rotation of the wheels.

Initial Dealer Diagnosis and Temporary Fixes

For many, the first port of call is the dealership. The typical diagnostic process involves a thorough inspection of all drive and suspension components. In many reported cases, the GT-R master technicians found no obvious faults with the CV joints or other related parts. A common suggestion from the dealership, and often from TechLine support, involves cleaning the surface between the wheel and the rotor. This is usually accompanied by re-torquing the lug nuts to the manufacturer's specification, which is typically around 98-104 ft-lb for the GT-R. While this procedure sometimes alleviates the noise, the relief is often short-lived, with the clicking sound returning after a few days or weeks.

The repeated re-torquing can even lead to a visible lip forming around the stud holes on the alloy wheels, a clear indication that the fix is not addressing the root cause. This leads many owners to take a more hands-on approach to solving this persistent annoyance.

Investigating Potential Causes: A Deep Dive

Frustrated by temporary fixes, owners have experimented with a wide array of potential solutions. These include:

• Applying a small amount of lubricant to the wheel surface that contacts the hub.
• Swapping wheels from side to side or using different wheel sets (e.g., summer vs. winter).
• Ensuring wheels are always mounted in the same orientation by marking a stud.
• Applying high-temperature brake lubricant to the back of brake pads and their mounting surfaces within the calipers.
• Removing components like the small cylinder and bolt that prevent rear wheels from being mounted on front hubs.
• Smoothing the back surface of the wheel with an orbital sander and fine-grit sandpaper, with and without lubricant.
• Changing brake pad types (e.g., from stock to performance pads like MX72 or ME20 and back to stock).

While some of these methods might offer fleeting improvements, the recurring theme is that the noise invariably returns. The only common denominator seems to be the removal and reinstallation of the wheel.

The Revelation: Rust as the Primary Culprit

The breakthrough in understanding this persistent clicking noise came with a closer inspection of the hub and rotor surfaces. It was discovered that after removing the rotors, a significant amount of rust was present on both the hub and the back of the rotor. This rust formed "bubbles" or a textured surface, preventing the rotor from making proper, flush contact with the hub, even when the lug nuts were torqued to specification. This poor contact, exacerbated by the accumulation of more rust over time due to the existing gaps, was the direct cause of the clicking sound.

The phenomenon is often more pronounced after a track day or a car wash. High temperatures, especially after spirited driving or washing, combined with moisture, significantly accelerate the rusting process on these critical mating surfaces. It's a simple application of basic chemistry: heat and water are catalysts for corrosion.

The Solution: Thorough Cleaning and Lubrication

The most effective solution involves meticulously cleaning these corroded surfaces and applying a suitable lubricant to prevent future rust build-up. The process, while detailed, is a manageable DIY task for many GT-R owners.

DIY Guide: Eliminating the GT-R Clicking Noise

This step-by-step guide will walk you through the process of cleaning and re-lubricating the wheel hub and rotor mating surfaces.

Step 1: Preparation and Tools

Gather the necessary tools:

• Jack, Jack Stands, Wheel Chocks
• Hammer and Punch
• 3/8" Ratchet with a 2.5" extension, 10mm, 12mm, and 13mm sockets
• 10mm HEX socket (1/2" drive) with a 1/2" Torque Wrench
• 2"-3" 1/2" drive extension and Lug Nut Socket
• 2 to 2.5 Ft Bungee Cord
• Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant
• Cordless Drill with a 2" Wire Cup Brush attachment
• Small Screwdriver
• Fine Grit Sandpaper
• 2-3 Cans of Brake Parts Cleaner
• Rags

Step 2: Wheel Removal and Marking

1. Place wheel chocks on the rear wheels for safety.
2. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheel you'll be working on.
3. Jack up the car on that side and support it with a jack stand.
4. Remove the wheel.
5. Crucially, note the orientation of the wheel on the studs. Many owners mark one stud (often the one with a black mark from the factory) and align it with the valve stem to ensure the wheel is replaced in the exact same position.

Step 3: Removal of Caliper Components

1. Using a punch and hammer, drive the two pad pins inwards to remove them from the caliper.
2. Remove the cross springs from the tie rods.
3. Unbolt the tie rods from the back and slide them outwards.
4. Gently press the brake pads towards the caliper pistons to loosen them, then slide them out of the caliper. Mark which pad is the inner and outer to ensure correct reinstallation.
5. Slide out the rubber grommets holding the ABS sensor cables from their brackets.
6. Separate the two brackets by removing the bolt securing them (often marked #3). This bolt can be tight and may require penetrating oil.
7. Remove the bolts holding the main bracket to the suspension arm (marked #4 & #5).

Step 4: Caliper Removal (Without Draining Brake Fluid)

1. The goal here is to hang the caliper out of the way without disconnecting the brake lines.
2. Use the bungee cord to secure the caliper to the suspension arm. Ensure the cord is the correct length and tension to keep the caliper in a position that doesn't stress the brake lines.
3. Loosen, but do not remove, the three bolts holding the caliper assembly.
4. Remove these bolts completely.
5. The caliper should now hang freely, allowing the rotor to be removed easily from the hub. Note the rotor's position relative to the hub, using the marked stud or bolt hole as a reference.

Step 5: Cleaning Mating Surfaces

This is the most critical step.

1. Hub Cleaning: Use brake cleaner and a rag to remove any old grease from the hub. Then, using the cordless drill with the wire cup brush, thoroughly clean the hub surface, paying attention to the area around each stud. Clean again with brake cleaner and a rag. Ensure the stud threads are also clean.
2. Rotor Cleaning: Clean both the front and back surfaces of the rotor that contact the hub and wheel. Use the wire brush and then brake cleaner. Ensure the inner surface of the rotor's center bore, which fits onto the hub, is also cleaned. Use a small screwdriver to clear any debris from cross-drilled holes if applicable.
3. Calipers: Clean brake dust from the calipers, especially in hard-to-reach grooves. Avoid spraying brake cleaner directly onto the caliper seals. Inspect the rubber seals for wear.
4. Brake Pads: Clean the backing plates of the brake pads where they contact the caliper. Do not spray cleaner onto the pad material itself.
5. Wheel Inner Surface: Lightly use fine-grit sandpaper on the inner surface of the wheel that contacts the hub. Clean off any lubricant or dirt from the stud holes. Use brake cleaner and a rag to wipe everything clean. Clean the threads inside the lug nuts as well. All these surfaces should be free of lubricant.

Step 6: Re-Installation of the Rotor

1. Apply a layer of Permatex lubricant to the hub surface, including the central locating spigot, but avoid getting any on the stud threads. Use a finger for even application.
2. Apply a thin layer of Permatex to the inside mating surface of the rotor, again avoiding the stud holes.
3. Carefully place the rotor back onto the hub, aligning it according to the reference marks made earlier (marked stud or bolt hole).

Step 7: Re-Installation of the Calipers

1. Reinstall the caliper mounting bolts in the correct order (typically top, bottom, then center). Torque the 10mm HEX bolts to 74 ft-lb and the center bolt to 18 ft-lb.
2. Carefully remove the bungee cord, ensuring no damage to the caliper piston seals.

Step 8: Re-Installation of Pads and Retaining Parts

1. Apply a very light layer of Permatex to the thin surfaces of the brake pads that slide into the caliper and on the backing plate where they contact the pistons. This can also help reduce brake squeal. Ensure no lubricant gets onto the pad friction material.
2. Slide the pads back into the caliper in their original marked positions. You might need to wiggle the rotor slightly to accommodate the uncompressed pistons.
3. Reinstall the tie rods and torque their bolts to 22 ft-lb.
4. Reattach the cross springs to the tie rods.
5. Insert the pad pins from the inside, through the pads and cross spring, and secure them by gently hammering them in until fully seated.
6. Reinstall the bracket bolts removed in Step 3, tightening them in reverse order.
7. Reinstall the ABS sensor cable grommets.

Step 9: Re-Installation of the Wheel

1. Apply a very light layer of Permatex to the inner surface of the wheel rim that contacts the hub. Avoid getting lubricant into the stud holes.
2. Reinstall the wheel, ensuring it's aligned with the marked stud.
3. Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to the specified 98 ft-lb. It's often easier to do this while the wheel is still slightly off the ground.

Step 10: Testing and Verification

1. Repeat steps 1-9 for the other front wheel.
2. Perform the low-speed, full-lock turning test in an empty parking lot.

While no DIY fix can offer a 100% guarantee, this thorough cleaning and lubrication of the hub and rotor mating surfaces has proven to be the most effective long-term solution for the GT-R's infamous clicking noise. The absence of that irritating sound, replaced perhaps by the sound of small debris hitting the wheel wells, is a welcome change and a testament to diligent maintenance.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q1: Is the clicking noise always caused by rust?
While rust on the hub and rotor mating surfaces is the most common cause for the specific "click-click-click" noise during low-speed turns, other factors like slightly loose lug nuts or debris can sometimes mimic the sound. However, the described DIY fix targets the most prevalent and persistent cause.

Q2: Can I use a different type of lubricant?
It's recommended to use a high-temperature brake lubricant specifically designed for brake components, such as the Permatex 24125 mentioned. Using the wrong type of lubricant could potentially cause issues with braking performance or accelerate wear.

Q3: How often should I perform this maintenance?
This procedure is typically required when the noise reappears. For many owners, a thorough cleaning and lubrication can last for a year or more, depending on driving conditions (e.g., exposure to moisture, salt, track use). It's wise to inspect these surfaces whenever wheels are removed for other maintenance.

Q4: Is this covered under warranty?
Generally, this type of issue, stemming from corrosion on mating surfaces, is not considered a manufacturing defect and therefore may not be covered under the standard vehicle warranty. It's often classified as routine maintenance or wear and tear.

Q5: Can I skip cleaning the hub and just lubricate the rotor?
No, both surfaces must be meticulously cleaned to ensure proper contact. Lubricant applied to a corroded or dirty surface will not create a smooth mating interface and the noise will likely return quickly, if it doesn't work at all.

Conclusion

The "click-click-click" noise in a Nissan GT-R during low-speed turns, while alarming, is often a solvable problem rooted in the interaction between the wheel hub and the brake rotor. By understanding the cause—primarily rust build-up—and following a detailed cleaning and lubrication procedure, GT-R owners can effectively eliminate this bothersome sound and restore the refined driving experience their supercar is known for. This DIY approach empowers owners to maintain their vehicles and enjoy the performance without the distraction of an annoying auditory cue.