13/05/2017
Embarking on the journey of building and maintaining your Satsuma can be one of the most rewarding, yet equally frustrating, experiences. From the moment you lay down the first bolt to those exhilarating drives through the Finnish countryside, mechanical woes are an inevitable part of the adventure. It's a common scenario: you’ve spent hours meticulously assembling your pride and joy, only for it to stubbornly refuse to cooperate, or perhaps Fleetari's repair shop seems to be taking an eternity. This guide aims to demystify these common automotive predicaments, offering clear, actionable solutions to get you back on the road, enjoying the open air and the rumble of a perfectly tuned engine.

Understanding Fleetari's Repair Shop
Fleetari's Repair Shop is your go-to destination for professional vehicle servicing, panel beating, and even performance upgrades. However, a frequent source of confusion, as many players discover, is the timing of repairs. When you drop off your vehicle and request services, it's crucial to understand that repairs operate on in-game time, not real-world minutes. Simply setting a timer and waiting in your real-life environment won't suffice; the game needs to progress.
How Fleetari's Repairs Work
- Order Placement: After parking your car in the designated spot, interact with Fleetari to order the desired repairs. This generates a paper slip on his desk.
- Time Progression: The repairs take a significant amount of in-game time. The most effective way to advance time is by sleeping. Each time you sleep, the game's clock jumps forward, allowing Fleetari to work on your vehicle.
- Completion and Collection: Once the repairs are complete, the paper slip will reappear on Fleetari's desk, indicating your car is ready and the cost of the service. You must pay him before you can collect your vehicle. If the paper isn't there, it means the repairs aren't finished, or you haven't slept enough. Don't worry, you typically won't need to restart your game; just focus on advancing in-game time.
Why Isn't My Satsuma Starting or Running Properly?
The Satsuma can be a temperamental beast, and getting it to run smoothly often feels like solving a complex puzzle. Here’s a detailed troubleshooting guide for the most common issues, from initial assembly to long-term driving problems.
Issues During the Building Process
These problems typically occur before you've even attempted to start the car.
I Cannot Attach a Specific Part
- Bugged Attachment: Sometimes, the game's physics or attachment points can glitch. A simple save and reload of your game can often resolve this, resetting the part's position and allowing it to attach correctly.
- Required Assembly: Many parts require other components to be attached first. For example, you must install the brake discs onto the halfshafts before you can attach the complete assembly to the car. Always check if a part is a sub-assembly.
I Cannot Find a Specific Part
- Location Change: Game updates can sometimes alter the initial spawn locations of parts. Consult up-to-date guides or community resources for the current locations of stock components (e.g., stock wheels might be at the mansion).
- Fallen Through Terrain: Parts can occasionally glitch through the world and respawn at the landfill site. If a part is missing and not in a known new location, make the trip to the landfill; it might just be waiting for you there.
Liquids Are Not Staying in Their Respective Reservoirs
This is almost always a sign of a loose or untightened bolt somewhere in the system. Every single bolt on a component that holds fluid (e.g., engine block, radiator, fuel tank, brake lines) must be fully tightened. Use your spanner set and carefully go over every bolt. Even one overlooked bolt can lead to catastrophic leaks and fluid loss.
My Car Started Sparking/Caught Fire While Tightening the Battery
This is a critical electrical safety lesson! You've likely tightened the negative (black) terminal of the battery before the positive (red) terminal, or left the negative side bolted in on its own. Always connect the positive (red) terminal first, then the negative (black). Never leave the negative side connected alone, as this creates an immediate short circuit, leading to sparks and an electrical fire. Disconnect immediately and reconnect correctly.
Issues When Trying to Start the Car for the First Time
Your Satsuma is assembled, but it's not quite ready to roar to life.
The Car Doesn't Make Any Sound
- Improper Wiring: The Satsuma's wiring is complex. Double-check every single wire connection according to a reliable wiring diagram. A single missed or incorrectly placed wire can prevent any electrical activity.
- Loose Starter Bolts: The starter motor requires two 7mm bolts to attach it to the engine (one also serves as a ground point) and one 5mm bolt for its electrical wire. Ensure all three are fully tightened.
- Dead or Loose Battery: Check the battery's charge with the battery charger. If the needle is all the way to the right, the battery is dead and needs charging or replacing. Ensure the two 8mm battery terminal bolts are secure (remember: positive first, then negative!). The stock battery often starts nearly dead.
The Car Makes a Cranking Sound, But Doesn't Turn Over
The engine is attempting to start, but isn't igniting.
- No Fuel: Check the fuel tank. It might be empty, or fuel could have leaked out due to untightened fuel line bolts.
- Untightened Spark Plugs: Ensure all four spark plugs are installed and fully tightened with the spark plug wrench. Loose plugs won't ignite the fuel mixture.
- Broken Rocker Shaft: This critical engine component can sometimes be broken during assembly or if the engine is severely mistreated. A broken rocker shaft will prevent the engine from turning over properly.
- Loose Distributor Screw: The screw holding the distributor in place must be fully tightened. A loose distributor can prevent proper spark timing.
The Car Starts, But Doesn't Stay Turned On
- Loose Spark Plugs: Even if they're installed, partially tightened spark plugs can cause misfires and prevent the engine from idling stably.
- Lack of Tuning: The Satsuma requires proper tuning, especially the carburettor. Pull out the choke, keep the throttle gently pressed (avoid redlining), and wait for the engine temperature to reach around 80°C. Adjusting the carburettor screw will be necessary once warmed up.
- Worn Fuel Pump/Crankshaft: If the car still won't stay on after tuning, these critical components might be worn out and require replacement or servicing at Fleetari's.
The Car Makes Noise, But Doesn't Ignite
This is almost certainly a fuel issue. Double-check your fuel level. If the tank is empty, fill it up and try again.
Once the car is running, various noises indicate parts needing adjustment or attention.
| Noise | Likely Cause | Action Required |
|---|---|---|
| High-pitched chirping | Untuned Distributor | Tune the distributor using the screwdriver. |
| Squealing sound | Untuned Alternator | Tune the alternator using the screwdriver (adjust tension). |
| Constant clicking | Rocker valves adjusted incorrectly | Reset rocker valves (down 20+, then up 8 clicks each). |
| Infrequent clonking | Incorrectly tuned Camshaft | IMMEDIATELY turn off the car and retune the camshaft. This is highly damaging. |
| Occasional gunshot sound | Lean air/fuel ratio, overheating, or untuned carburettor/camshaft gear | Tune carburettor, check engine temperature, align camshaft gear. |
The Exhaust Smoke Colour Doesn't Change When Tuning the Carburettor
Ensure the choke is fully pushed in. The choke enriches the fuel mixture for cold starts, making carburettor tuning difficult or impossible when pulled out.
There Is a Red Light on the Dashboard
This light signifies an issue with the charging system, specifically the alternator. It's often caused by a lean air/fuel ratio at idle, which prevents the crankshaft pulley from rotating fast enough to charge the battery. Alternatively, the alternator belt might not be installed or could have snapped due to overtightening.
Unable to Change Gears
- Loose Gear Linkage/Stick: Check that all bolts on the gear linkage and the gear stick itself are fully tightened.
- H-Shifter Setting: If using a real H-shifter, ensure the 'H-Shifter' option in your game settings is ticked.
The Fuel Gauge Shows Empty Even Though It Isn't
The fuel tank's wiring is likely incomplete or incorrect. Review your wiring diagram for the fuel gauge connection.
Gauge Lights, Headlights, Etc., Aren't Working
- Improper Wiring: Accessories like lights and gauges require correct wiring. Double-check all connections.
- Dead Battery/Alternator: If the alternator isn't charging (perhaps due to a snapped belt or incorrect tension), the battery will eventually die, leading to electrical failures.
Throttle Response Is Inconsistent, Car Cannot Idle Properly
- Spark Plugs: Your spark plugs might be worn out, or simply not tightened enough. Replace them if necessary, or ensure they are snug.
- Worn Fuel Pump: A failing fuel pump will struggle to deliver a consistent fuel supply, leading to erratic engine behaviour.
Issues During/After the Test Drive
These problems become apparent once you put the Satsuma through its paces.
White Particles Periodically Get Squirted from the Engine Bay
This is usually coolant being expelled. It happens when the radiator is overfilled (above 75% capacity) or when the engine is overheating, especially during prolonged periods of high RPM driving. It's not necessarily a problem if the radiator isn't completely full; it's the radiator's way of regulating pressure.
The Car Keeps Veering Left/Right on Its Own
This points to an issue with your steering or suspension. The wheels might not be properly aligned, or the suspension itself could be bent (e.g., from rough driving or physics bugs). Try re-tuning the steering rods first. If that doesn't work, Fleetari offers a "suspension straightening" service.

The Gears Keep Changing on Their Own
- Loose Gearbox Bolts: Some bolts directly affecting gearbox behaviour might be loose. Re-tighten all bolts related to the gearbox assembly.
- Worn Gearbox: If bolts aren't the issue, your gearbox might be worn out. A worn gearbox will struggle to hold specific gears, often slipping back into neutral.
The Wheels Are Spinning, But the Car Refuses to Move
This is almost always the handbrake still being engaged. Ensure you fully disengage the handbrake by holding down the right mouse button while looking at the lever.
The Car Is Very Sluggish to Drive
Sluggishness indicates a lack of power delivery.
- Poor Tuning: The rocker shaft, carburettor, and/or distributor are common culprits. These are the most challenging parts to tune correctly. Refer to detailed tuning guides for each component.
- Spark Plugs: Worn out or untightened spark plugs can severely impact engine performance. Replace or tighten them.
- Worn Fuel Pump: An inefficient fuel pump will starve the engine of fuel, leading to poor acceleration.
The Car Turns Off and Refuses to Turn Over Again
- Dead Battery/Alternator: As before, if the alternator isn't charging, the battery will eventually drain, leaving you stranded. Check the alternator belt and tension.
- Broken Rocker Shaft: If the rocker shaft breaks during driving, the engine will cease to function.
The Car Turns Very Slowly at High Speeds
This is a game setting. Check your options for 'High Speed Aid' and adjust or disable it if you prefer more responsive steering at speed.
Issues After Driving the Car for a Long Time (Wear & Tear)
Even a perfectly built Satsuma will eventually show signs of wear.
The Car Is Shaking Violently
A violently shaking car is a strong indicator that the crankshaft is severely worn or almost broken. This requires immediate attention; buy a new one or have your current one serviced at Fleetari's.
There Is Smoke Coming from the Engine Bay
Smoke from the engine bay, especially if accompanied by overheating, suggests a failing head gasket. This critical seal can fail due to age or overheating. Replace it or have Fleetari service it. Also, ensure you installed it in the first place!
A Red Light on the Dashboard Turns On at Low RPM
This typically means the alternator or water pump is worn or about to break. These parts are crucial for charging and cooling respectively. Replace or service them.
The Car Is Making a Constant Squealing Sound
While a squeal can be a loose alternator belt (tighten it with a screwdriver), a constant, persistent squeal often points to a failing water pump or alternator. If the pulley jams, it will create this noise. Both can be serviced or replaced at Fleetari's.
The Car Is Underpowered and the RPM Goes Up and Down
This is a sign of internal engine wear impacting combustion efficiency.
- Worn Pistons: If blueish smoke is emitted from the exhaust, it's a strong indicator of cracked piston heads allowing oil into the fuel mixture. Replace the pistons.
- Worn Spark Plugs: Old, worn spark plugs will struggle to create a consistent spark. Replace them.
- Worn Fuel Pump: An aging fuel pump can't maintain consistent fuel pressure, leading to fluctuating RPMs.
The Gears Are Changing on Their Own
- Broken Gearbox: A severely worn or broken gearbox will struggle to maintain gears.
- Low Clutch Fluid: The clutch fluid reservoir might be nearly empty, affecting gear engagement. Refill it.
The Car Cranks for a Second and Turns Off When Turning the Ignition
This is a classic symptom of a broken starter motor. It can provide a brief initial crank but lacks the power to fully turn the engine over. Replace or service it.
I Heard Two Loud Bangs from the Engine Bay, and the Car Refuses to Start Again
Two loud bangs, especially if followed by complete engine failure, typically indicate a broken rocker shaft. This is a severe mechanical failure. Replace or service the part.
The Car Keeps Overheating
Overheating can lead to critical engine damage.
- Low Radiator Fluid: Check the coolant level in the radiator. Fill it if necessary.
- Low Oil Level: Insufficient engine oil reduces lubrication and cooling. Check the oil pan level (a red light under the speedometer indicates low oil).
- Failing Cooling Components: Parts like the head gasket or water pump are vital for temperature regulation. If they are about to break or have broken, overheating will occur.
One or More of the Wheels Have Sunken into the Ground
This is usually due to punctured or severely worn-down tyres. Replace them at Fleetari's.
The Car Has Suddenly Started Veering Left/Right on Its Own
This signifies damage to the car's suspension. Fleetari offers a "suspension straightening" option. For a quick, temporary fix, you can sometimes use the digging bar to manually adjust the suspension.
The Car Brakes Very Poorly
Poor braking performance is dangerous and usually due to low brake fluid. Check the reservoir and top it up.
The Car Struggles to Keep RPM Up, and/or Refusing to Start Again
- Out of Fuel: The simplest explanation – you've run out of petrol! Refill with a jerrycan or tow the car to Teimo's.
- Worn Fuel Pump: A dying fuel pump struggles to deliver consistent fuel pressure, leading to stalling and starting issues.
The Car Will Not Start/Starts and Stops After a Few Seconds
- Worn Spark Plugs: Old spark plugs lose their efficiency. Replace them.
- Worn Fuel Pump: As mentioned, a failing fuel pump can cause immediate stalling.
The Car Engine Quickly Revs Up to High RPM and Won't Accelerate
This is a classic symptom of a completely failed or severely worn clutch or gearbox. The engine is generating power, but it's not being transferred effectively to the wheels. This means the clutch isn't engaging the gearbox, or the gearbox itself isn't transferring power to the driveshaft. Both components require replacement or servicing at Fleetari's.
Mastering the Satsuma is a journey of trial and error, but with this guide, you're now equipped to diagnose and fix most common issues. Remember, patience is key, and every repair is a step closer to becoming a true Finnish rally legend!
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