05/12/2005
Ensuring your motorcycle is in peak condition isn't just about enjoying the open road; it's also a legal requirement in the UK to pass its annual MOT (Ministry of Transport) test. While the MOT covers numerous components, the integrity of your bike's wheels and tyres is paramount, directly impacting safety, handling, and braking performance. These crucial elements are subjected to rigorous inspection, and understanding the specific rules and common failure points can save you time, money, and potential heartache. This comprehensive guide will walk you through the intricacies of wheel security, wheel condition, and tyre requirements, empowering you to approach your next MOT with confidence.

Road Wheel Security: Keeping Things Firmly Attached
One of the most fundamental checks during a motorcycle MOT involves the security of your road wheels. It might sound obvious, but a wheel that isn't properly attached can lead to catastrophic failure. Testers meticulously examine each wheel, including any fitted to a sidecar, to ensure all fixings are present and secure. This isn't just about checking for tightness; it also involves assessing the condition of the wheel hub itself.
Loose or missing wheel nuts, bolts, or studs are immediate red flags. The severity of the defect depends on the number of fixings involved. For instance, a single loose or missing fixing where there are multiple is considered a 'Major' defect. However, if there's a single fixing that's loose or missing, or if more than one is compromised in a multiple-fixing scenario, it escalates to a 'Dangerous' defect. A 'Dangerous' defect means the motorcycle is considered unsafe to ride and cannot be taken on the road until repaired.
The wheel hub also comes under scrutiny. Excessive wear or damage to the hub is classified as a 'Major' defect. Should this wear or damage be so severe that it compromises the wheel's security, it becomes a 'Dangerous' defect. Similarly, a loose wheel spindle is a 'Major' defect, but if its insecurity or that of its securing nuts adversely affects wheel security or steering control, it's deemed 'Dangerous'. Finally, the absence or ineffectiveness of a wheel spindle locking device is a 'Major' defect, as these are crucial for preventing the spindle from coming loose over time.
Defects for Road Wheel Security
Understanding the specific defect categories can help you identify potential issues before your test:
| Defect Reference | Defect Description | Category |
|---|---|---|
| (a)(i) | A wheel with a loose or missing wheel nut, bolt or stud in the case of multiple fixings | Major |
| (a)(ii) | A wheel with a loose or missing wheel nut, bolt or stud in the case of a single fixing, or more than one loose or missing in the case of multiple fixings | Dangerous |
| (b)(i) | A wheel hub excessively worn or damaged | Major |
| (b)(ii) | A wheel hub worn or damaged to the extent that wheel security is adversely affected | Dangerous |
| (c)(i) | A wheel spindle loose | Major |
| (c)(ii) | A wheel spindle or its securing nut(s) so insecure that wheel security or steering control is adversely affected | Dangerous |
| (d) | A wheel spindle locking device missing or ineffective | Major |
Road Wheel Condition: Beyond Just Being Attached
Once security is established, the physical condition of the road wheels themselves is assessed. This includes inspecting for structural integrity, damage, and distortion. Spare wheels are not part of the formal MOT inspection, but a responsible tester will inform you of any defects they notice.
Any fracture or welding defect on a wheel is immediately classified as Dangerous. This is because such damage severely compromises the wheel's structural integrity, making it highly susceptible to catastrophic failure, particularly at speed. Beyond outright fractures, other issues like excessive corrosion, damage, or distortion can also lead to a 'Major' defect. If this corrosion, damage, or distortion is so severe that it's likely to adversely affect the control of the motorcycle, it elevates to a 'Dangerous' defect.
Spoked wheels also have specific requirements. A missing, cracked, excessively loose, bent, or corroded spoke is a 'Major' defect. Spokes are vital for maintaining the wheel's shape and strength, distributing forces evenly. A compromise in even one can affect the wheel's stability. For built-up wheels (those constructed with multiple parts joined by rivets or bolts), loose or missing rivets or bolts are 'Major' defects. If these fixings are missing or loose to the extent that control of the motorcycle is likely to be adversely affected, it becomes a 'Dangerous' defect.
Furthermore, the physical straightness of the wheel rim is checked for distortion. This includes lateral run-out (side-to-side wobble) and eccentricity (up-and-down wobble). The maximum acceptable limits vary depending on the rim material:
Maximum Rim Distortion Limits
| Rim Type | Maximum Lateral Rim Distortion (Run-out/Buckling) | Maximum Eccentricity |
|---|---|---|
| Steel Rims | 4mm | 3mm |
| Aluminium Alloy Rims (Cast or Fabricated) | 2mm | 3mm |
Measurements for cast aluminium alloy rims should be taken from a machined surface for accuracy.
Defects for Road Wheel Condition
| Defect Reference | Defect Description | Category |
|---|---|---|
| (a) | Any fracture or welding defect on a wheel | Dangerous |
| (c)(i) | A wheel excessively corroded, damaged or distorted | Major |
| (c)(ii) | A wheel corroded, damaged or distorted to the extent that control of the motorcycle is likely to be adversely affected | Dangerous |
| (d) | A spoke missing, cracked, excessively loose, bent or corroded | Major |
| (e)(i) | A built-up wheel with loose or missing rivets or bolts | Major |
| (e)(ii) | A built-up wheel with rivets or bolts missing or loose to the extent that control of the motorcycle is likely to be adversely affected | Dangerous |
Tyres: Your Only Contact with the Road
Tyres are arguably the most critical component for a motorcycle's safety, as they are the sole point of contact with the road. The MOT inspection for tyres is incredibly detailed, covering size, type, condition, fitment, and crucial tread depth.
Size and Type
The correct size and type of tyre are paramount for safe handling. While spare tyres aren't inspected, their condition should still be noted to the presenter. For motorcycles with twin front or rear wheels, both tyres on the 'axle' must be of the same size and structure (e.g., both radial or both cross-ply).
Several tyre types are deemed unsuitable for various applications:
- A sidecar or car tyre on a solo motorcycle. (Note: Sidecars *may* be fitted with either car or motorcycle type tyres).
- A tyre specifically designed for front wheel use fitted to the rear wheel.
- A bias-belted tyre fitted to the front with a cross-ply tyre fitted to the rear.
- A radial tyre fitted to the front and a cross-ply or bias-belted tyre fitted to the rear.
These restrictions are due to the different construction and handling characteristics of various tyre types, which, when mixed inappropriately, can severely compromise stability and control. For instance, mixing radial and cross-ply tyres can lead to unpredictable handling, especially when cornering or braking, as their sidewall flex characteristics differ significantly.
Motocross tyres, tyres designated by their manufacturer as racing tyres, and tyres marked 'NHS' (Not for Highway Service) or 'NOT FOR HIGHWAY USE' on the sidewall are generally unsuitable for road use. However, exceptions exist if the tyre sidewall is marked with an 'E' in a circle, an 'e' in a rectangle, 'JIS' (Japanese Industry Standard), or 'DOT' (American Standard). Motocross tyres are specifically identified by tread blocks with substantially greater spacing than the blocks themselves.
Finally, directional tyres, which are designed to rotate in a specific direction for optimal water dispersion and grip, must be fitted as indicated on their sidewall, usually with an arrow or words.
Condition and Fitment
The physical condition of the tyre is meticulously checked for any signs of damage or structural failure. A tyre will be rejected if:
- It's damaged to the extent that the ply or cord is exposed. The internal structure (ply/cord) is crucial for the tyre's integrity, and its exposure indicates severe damage.
- It has a lump, bulge, or tear caused by separation or partial failure of its internal structure. These indicate internal damage and a high risk of sudden tyre failure.
- The tread rubber is lifting. This means the outer layer of the tyre is detaching from the carcass.
When assessing cuts, testers use a blunt instrument to carefully open a cut to determine if it reaches the ply or cord. Care is taken not to cause further damage. A tyre will be rejected if:
- Ply or cord can be seen without touching the tyre.
- Exposed ply or cord can be seen (irrespective of cut size) by folding back rubber or opening a cut with a blunt instrument.
- Cords can be felt but not seen when a cut more than 25mm or 10% of the section width (whichever is greater) is opened with a blunt instrument.
It's important for testers to distinguish between normal manufacturing undulations in radial ply tyres and actual structural bulges. If a tester is unsure whether they are feeling cords or another object, they should pass the tyre and advise the presenter. Loose or missing tyre security bolts are not considered a defect, but the presenter should be informed.
Tread Depth
The legal tread depth is one of the most common reasons for an MOT failure. The tread pattern is defined as the combination of plain surfaces and grooves extending across the breadth of the tread and around the entire circumference. This excludes tie-bars, tread wear indicators (TWI), or minor features.
Primary grooves are those containing TWIs or grooves as deep as those containing TWIs when new. Secondary grooves are shallower and are not considered when assessing tread depth. The 'breadth of tread' is the part of the tyre that can contact the road under normal use, including cornering.
For most motorcycles, the tread pattern must:
- Be visible over the whole tread area.
- Have a depth of at least 1.0mm throughout a single band of at least 3/4 over any section of the breadth of tread around the entire outer tyre circumference.
If the original tread pattern did not extend beyond 3/4 of the tyre width when new, the whole tread width must have at least 1.0mm deep tread. The continuous band of 1mm tread depth over 3/4 of the breadth of tread does not have to run parallel to the tyre centre line.
A notable exception applies to motorcycles with an engine capacity not greater than 50cc. These bikes do not need to have 1mm of tread depth. However, they must still have a visible tread pattern around the entire circumference and across the whole breadth of the tread. This means even if the grooves are very shallow, they must still be discernible.
Frequently Asked Questions About Motorcycle MOT Wheels & Tyres
Q1: Can I use a car tyre on my motorcycle if it's a sidecar outfit?
A: Yes, if your motorcycle is fitted with a sidecar, either car or motorcycle type tyres may be fitted to the sidecar wheel. However, a car tyre is strictly unsuitable for a solo motorcycle's main wheels, as their construction and profile are designed for the very different forces experienced by a four-wheeled vehicle, leading to dangerous handling characteristics on a two-wheeled machine.
Q2: My tyre has a small cut. How do I know if it will fail the MOT?
A: A small cut might not automatically fail, but it depends on its depth and location. If the cut exposes the internal ply or cord, or if, when opened with a blunt instrument, the ply or cord can be seen or even felt, it will result in a failure. If the cut is more than 25mm long or 10% of the section width (whichever is greater) and you can feel the cords, it's a fail. It's always best to have it professionally inspected if you're unsure, as a seemingly minor cut can compromise structural integrity.
Q3: How do I check my motorcycle tyre tread depth at home?
A: You can use a dedicated tyre tread depth gauge, which is inexpensive and easy to use. Alternatively, a 20p coin can provide a quick, rough check. Insert the 20p coin into the main grooves of your tyre. If the outer band of the coin is hidden, your tread is likely above the 1.6mm car tyre minimum (motorcycles are 1.0mm). However, for the precise 1.0mm motorcycle requirement, a gauge is much more accurate. Remember to check across the full breadth of the tyre and around the entire circumference, especially looking for uneven wear.
Q4: My wheel has a slight buckle. Will it pass?
A: It depends on the severity of the buckle. For steel rims, the maximum lateral distortion (wobble) allowed is 4mm. For aluminium alloy rims, it's tighter at 2mm. The maximum eccentricity (up-and-down wobble) is 3mm for all rim types. If your buckle exceeds these limits, it will be a 'Major' or 'Dangerous' defect depending on its impact on control, and your bike will fail its MOT. It's advisable to have any suspected buckles checked by a professional.
Conclusion
The wheels and tyres of your motorcycle are not just components; they are your direct connection to the road and fundamental to your safety. The comprehensive nature of the MOT inspection for these parts underscores their importance. By understanding the specific requirements for wheel security, condition, and the critical aspects of tyre type, condition, and tread depth, you can perform effective pre-MOT checks and address any issues proactively. Regular maintenance and vigilance will not only help you pass your MOT but, more importantly, ensure your motorcycle remains a safe and reliable machine for every journey on UK roads. Don't leave these vital checks to chance; your safety, and your successful MOT, depend on it.
If you want to read more articles similar to Motorcycle MOT: Wheels & Tyres Explained, you can visit the Automotive category.
