Morgan Steering Systems: A Comprehensive Guide

For nearly a century, Morgan cars have captivated enthusiasts with their distinctive design and engaging driving experience. A crucial element of this experience is the steering system, which has evolved significantly over the decades, moving from traditional steering boxes to more modern rack and pinion setups. Understanding the nuances of these systems is key to appreciating Morgan's unique character and maintaining its legendary handling. This comprehensive guide delves into the various steering mechanisms employed by Morgan, common issues, and essential maintenance practices.

Morgan's commitment to its classic "Trad" 4-wheelers has meant a fascinating, albeit sometimes challenging, journey through different steering technologies. From the earliest days, the focus has been on delivering a direct, tactile connection to the road, which, depending on the era, has come with its own set of quirks and charms.

A Journey Through Time: Morgan Steering Systems Evolution

The steering lineage of Morgan's Classic (Trad) 4-wheelers reveals a story of adaptation and refinement, responding to both technological advancements and driver feedback.

The Early Days: Burman-Douglas and the 'Malvern Dance' (1936-1950)

In the nascent years of their 4-wheeled vehicles, Morgan experimented briefly with a reduction gear mounted midway down the steering column in 1936. However, by the end of that very year, they had settled on a more enduring solution: the Burman-Douglas cam and peg system. This robust design offered two turns to lock, providing a direct, if somewhat heavy, steering feel. It was during this period that the legend of the Malvern Dance began – a playful, yet often accurate, description of the energetic input required from the driver to navigate the car through corners and maintain a straight line, particularly on uneven surfaces. This system, while iconic, set the stage for future improvements aimed at refining the driving experience without sacrificing the marque's distinct character.

Mid-Century Refinements: Cam Gears and Continued Tradition (1950-1985)

The period from 1950 to 1969 saw the introduction of another steering box, this time manufactured by Cam Gears, the same company behind the earlier Burman Douglas units. This new box, while sharing a similar design philosophy with the earlier 4/4 box, was notably stronger and slightly larger. The Plus 4 models received this upgrade in 1969, with the 4/4s adopting it earlier in 1955. Like its predecessor, this system also featured two turns to lock, ensuring that the spirit of the Malvern Dance continued to be a part of the Morgan driving ritual for many more years.

However, by the early 1980s, Morgan began to have concerns about the long-term viability of continuing with Cam Gears. This led to an interesting interlude involving a large French manufacturer, Gemmer. A unique steering box, a variation of a model used in forklifts, was developed specifically for Morgan. This Gemmer box proved to be a marvellous improvement for the 4/4s and Plus 4s, which had retained Cam Gears until 1985. Crucially, it was also retrofittable to earlier Cam Gear cars, offering a significant upgrade path for existing owners.

The Rack and Pinion Revolution: Jack Knight and Improved Handling (1983-2007)

Steering the early Plus 8s (from 1968 onwards) with the traditional Cam Gears box was often described as a chore, demanding considerable effort from the driver. Recognising this, Maurice Owen, Morgan's design chief, approached Jack Knight Ltd, a specialist UK manufacturer, in 1982. The result was a bespoke rack and pinion system, specifically designed for the Morgan Plus 8, which made its debut in 1983. This advanced system necessitated a modification to the stub axles. Initially, between 1984 and 1986, the rack was only available as an option with the Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) model, but by 1987, it became a standard feature on the Plus 8. Over the years, various turns to lock ratios could be specified or ordered as an option, including 2.3, 2.7, 3.0, or 3.5 turns, allowing for a degree of customisation in steering responsiveness.

While Jack Knight faced bankruptcy in 2007, the company was later revived and continues to operate today, still offering Morgan steering racks with a choice of ratios. It's important to note that these racks were uniquely designed for Morgan and not shared with other car manufacturers. By the mid-1990s, the superior handling characteristics of the rack and pinion system saw it fitted across all Morgan models.

The Modern Era: Quaife and Beyond (2007-Present)

Following Jack Knight's initial financial difficulties in 2007, Morgan transitioned to Quaife for their rack and pinion steering systems. This change aimed to maintain the enhanced steering precision and responsiveness that owners had come to expect from the newer models.

The Infamous 'Rubbing the Wings' Phenomenon

A persistent and frustrating issue for many traditional Morgan owners, particularly those with Superform winged cars (new or retro-fit), has been the phenomenon of tyres rubbing against the wings at the crease during turns. This problem, which can occur before full steering lock, is exacerbated by increasing tyre diameter and leads to aesthetic damage, such as paint bubbling at the contact points, and premature tyre wear.

The Root Cause: Design Changes and Missing Steering Stops

For years, frustrated owners, dealers, and repair shops attempted various, often expensive, solutions with little success. The mystery of 'rubbing the wings' was finally solved and traces back to a combination of factors, primarily attributed to design decisions made by Morgan management, rather than the steering rack suppliers like Superform, Jack Knight, or Quaife.

The deep crease in the new Superform wings, designed to accommodate the tyres, was part of the problem. However, the critical factor was the removal of steering stops from the frame. Until the advent of rack and pinion (R&P) steering, all Morgans were legally required to have these frame-mounted steering stops. These stops served a vital purpose: preventing the tyres from contacting the wings during turns. When R&P steering was introduced, the legal requirement for these external stops changed, presumably because lawmakers assumed that R&P systems inherently limited over-steering. Morgan, seemingly as a cost-saving measure, removed these crucial stops, failing to fully realise the detrimental effect this would have in real-world driving conditions, especially in conjunction with the new wing design. While R&P systems can easily be designed with internal stops to limit turning, Morgan's specifications to their suppliers, combined with the new wing design and the removal of the frame stops, created a significant and costly problem for countless owners.

Owner's Dilemma and Solutions

The damage caused by rubbing wings, from bubbling paint to tyre wear, is a genuine concern. While adjusting the rack to prevent rubbing is possible, it can be costly if not specified at the factory. For afflicted owners, a straightforward solution is to fit earlier frame-mounted steering stops. Alternatively, designing adjustable stops, perhaps with rollers, could offer an even better, more tailored solution, allowing owners to match the specific needs of their Morgan. This issue highlights how seemingly minor production decisions can lead to significant owner misery down the line.

Tackling a Heavy Helm: Improving Your Morgan's Steering Feel

Many traditional Morgan owners seek ways to improve comfort and handling, particularly if the steering feels excessively heavy. Several modifications can be undertaken to enhance the driving experience.

Beyond the Steering Box: Suspension Modifications

While steering is the focus, improving the overall comfort and handling often involves addressing the suspension. Common modifications include installing adjustable shock absorbers and experimenting with different spring rates. For enhanced stability and precise cornering, adding panhard rods and, where appropriate, chassis strengthening can make a noticeable difference. Furthermore, adjusting the front steering and suspension geometry, specifically castor and camber, can lead to better and more precise cornering speeds.

For a truly transformative improvement in comfort for traditional Morgans, the SSL suspension system (formerly known as Suplex) is highly recommended. This system offers vastly superior comfort compared to the original leaf spring setup, significantly reducing body roll and providing better 'turn in' on corners. The new coil springs and dampers dramatically improve driver and passenger comfort, eliminating the harshness often felt through the car. If a full suspension replacement is too significant a step, several damper units are available that can still provide a noticeable improvement.

The Ultimate Upgrade: Rack and Pinion Conversion

If you find that your Morgan's steering is becoming too heavy, the most impactful solution is to convert your steering system to rack and pinion, replacing the older steering box system entirely. This conversion significantly lightens the steering effort, making the car much more comfortable and responsive to drive, particularly in urban environments or during extended journeys.

Understanding Your Morgan's Steering Components

For classic Morgan models (excluding modern aluminium chassis cars like the 4.8-litre V8 and Aero8), the steering system can generally be broken down into three main units, offering insights into their maintenance requirements.

The Classic Layout: Lower, Intermediate, and Upper Units

The steering system of a classic Morgan, exemplified by a 1972 Morgan 4/4, follows a consistent basic layout dating back to 1936:

1. The Lower End Unit: This comprises the steering box, drag link, track rod, steering damper, and hubs. Pre-1950s cars may not feature the 'one-shot' lubrication system or shock absorbers. Crucially, the four ball joints in this unit are not sealed like modern counterparts; they are equipped with grease nipples and require greasing every 5,000 miles or annually, whichever comes first. Regular checks for free play and rubber boot condition are essential. The hub carrier also requires lubrication via its grease nipple to maintain light steering and prevent rapid wear of the bronze bushes.
2. The Intermediate Unit: Located in the engine compartment, this unit consists of a 12-inch metal rod with a universal joint at each end. It connects the end of the steering column to the steering box shaft, typically under the offside front wing, where the universal joint is protected from road grime by a metal box.
3. The Upper Unit: Found inside the driver's compartment, this unit includes the steering wheel and the collapsible column. Fitted in Morgans since 1968, the collapsible column is secured by bolts to a support bracket welded to the bulkhead. The splined end of the column's inner shaft passes into the engine bay, connecting to a universal joint on the intermediate shaft. This unit can be removed independently from inside the car.

Steering Box Types: Cam & Lever, Worm & Peg, and Recirculating Ball

While the overall layout remained similar, the internal mechanism of the steering box evolved:

• Cam & Lever Box: Predominantly found in models with Cam Gears steering, this type uses a cam and a lever mechanism to translate steering wheel input into wheel movement.
• Worm & Peg Box: Older Morgan models may feature a worm and peg box, a simpler design where a worm gear on the steering column meshes with a peg on the rocker shaft.
• Gemmer Recirculating Ball: Introduced from 1986, particularly on V8 models (and Plus 4s from 1991), some later models adopted the Gemmer recirculating ball system. This design uses a series of ball bearings to reduce friction between the worm and nut, providing smoother operation.

Essential Maintenance: Greasing and Oil Checks

Proper lubrication is paramount for the longevity and performance of your Morgan's steering system. The 'One Shot' lubrication system, while recommended daily or every 200 miles in the owner's handbook, is often used less frequently by experienced owners due to potential issues. Hubs, in addition to ball joints, should be greased regularly, ideally every 500 to 1000 miles, or at least every 5000 miles.

For Cam & Lever steering boxes, the 'Morgan Owners Handbook' recommends checking and topping up the oil every 5000 miles. It's crucial to use extreme pressure hypoid oil and fill the box to the top after thoroughly cleaning the area around the oil top-up nut. Allowing the oil level to drop too low can lead to severe wear.

Adjusting Your Steering Box: A Delicate Balance

Checking for free play in the steering box is vital. With the front of the car jacked up and supported on axle stands, and the drag link disconnected, the steering wheel should turn freely from lock to lock. There should be a slight resistance in the central position, known as the 'high spot', as the peg travels over the cam centre. If this resistance is absent, adjustment is necessary. This involves slackening the locking nut and turning the adjustment screw clockwise in small increments until the resistance is just felt. A torque of 12lb in at the rim as the peg moves over cam centre is considered correct. Over-tightening, however, will result in rapid wear and damage to the box and can be felt as a 'high spot' during driving. If excessive end float is detected in high-mileage boxes, it may require adjusting shims by removing the end plate, a task best left to qualified engineering workshops due to the complexity and risk of damaging internal components.

Comparative Overview of Morgan Steering Systems

Here's a brief look at the primary steering systems used in Morgan's traditional 4-wheelers:

Genuine Parts and Restoration

When it comes to servicing, repairs, or full restorations of your Morgan, it is paramount to use genuine Morgan parts and accessories. Skilled technicians undertaking such work rely on these authentic components to ensure your car remains in 'fine fettle' and performs as intended. Morgan itself sells a range of parts for the +4 Steering System, including components from Gemmer, Moto-lita, Bishop, Brooklands, Derrington wheels, and various mahogany and walnut steering wheels, demonstrating their commitment to supporting the longevity of their vehicles.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

What is the "Malvern Dance"?

The "Malvern Dance" is a colloquial term used by Morgan enthusiasts to describe the active, often vigorous, steering input required by drivers of older Morgan models with traditional steering boxes (like the Burman-Douglas and Cam Gears systems) to keep the car tracking straight and navigate corners. It refers to the constant small corrections needed, making the driving experience highly engaging and physical.

Can I convert my old Morgan to rack and pinion steering?

Yes, if your traditional Morgan has heavy steering, converting it to a rack and pinion system is a recommended modification. This replaces the older steering box system and significantly improves the steering's responsiveness and reduces effort, making for a much more comfortable driving experience. It's best to consult with a specialist Morgan workshop for this conversion.

Why do my tyres rub the wings on my Morgan?

Tyre rubbing, particularly on Superform winged Morgans, is often due to a combination of the deep crease in the wing design and, crucially, the removal of frame-mounted steering stops by Morgan in later models. These stops previously prevented over-steering that would lead to tyre contact. Solutions involve refitting earlier steering stops or having the steering rack adjusted (if possible) to limit the turning circle.

Are genuine Morgan parts important for steering system repairs?

Absolutely. Using genuine Morgan parts and accessories for any repairs or servicing of your steering system ensures that the components fit correctly, meet the manufacturer's specifications, and maintain the original integrity and safety of your vehicle. This is particularly important for critical systems like steering.

How often should I service my Morgan's steering box?

For classic Morgan steering boxes (Cam & Lever, Worm & Peg), it's generally recommended to check and top up the oil (using extreme pressure hypoid oil) every 5,000 miles. Additionally, regular greasing of ball joints and hubs (every 500-5000 miles, depending on preference) is vital. It's also important to periodically check for free play in the steering and adjust as necessary, though complex internal adjustments should be left to specialists.

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