18/03/2005
Ensuring your vehicle's braking system is in top condition is paramount for safety on the road. For owners of the 3rd generation Mitsubishi Outlander Sport (models spanning 2011 to 2017), understanding when to service your rear brakes, particularly concerning the rotors, can save you both money and potential hazards. While replacing brake pads is a common task, the decision to resurface or entirely replace your brake rotors often leads to questions. This comprehensive guide, drawing on years of automotive expertise, will demystify the process, focusing on the essential steps for rear brake pad replacement and offering clear advice on managing your rotors.

The Mitsubishi Outlander Sport, also known as the ASX or RVR in various markets, shares many components with its siblings like the Lancer or the larger Outlander. This guide is specifically tailored for the Outlander Sport, but its principles and many of the procedures can be broadly applied to other Mitsubishi models. Proper brake maintenance isn't just about stopping; it's about control, stability, and peace of mind on every journey, whether you're navigating city streets or cruising motorways across the UK.
Understanding Your Brake Rotors: When to Act
Your brake rotors are the metal discs that the brake pads clamp onto to slow your vehicle. Over time, they can wear unevenly, develop grooves, or even warp due to heat. This wear can manifest as vibrations, pulsations, or a shuddering sensation felt through the brake pedal or steering wheel when braking. The core question for many Outlander Sport owners is: “Do I need to resurface my Outlander Sport rotors?”
The answer largely depends on the condition of your existing rotors and your vehicle's braking history. If your Outlander Sport has previously exhibited noticeable shuddering, pulsations, or vibrations in the rear end during braking, this is a strong indicator that your rotors have suffered some form of distortion or excessive wear. In such cases, you generally have two options: have your rotors 'turned' (resurfaced) or simply replace them with brand new ones. Resurfacing involves machining a thin layer off the rotor's surface to restore its flatness and smoothness. However, rotors have a minimum thickness specification, and if they're too thin after resurfacing, they won't dissipate heat effectively and could warp again quickly, or even fail.
Conversely, if this is the first rear brake service for your SUV, and the rotors appear to be in excellent condition – meaning no deep grooves, excessive rust, or visible warping – you should be able to just replace the pads with excellent results. It's always best practice to visually inspect them thoroughly. Look for a smooth, even surface. Minor surface rust is typically fine and will wear off quickly with new pads, but significant pitting or scoring indicates a need for attention.
Resurfacing vs. Replacement: A Quick Comparison
Making the right choice between resurfacing and replacing your rotors involves considering cost, longevity, and the current state of your components. Here's a brief comparison to help you decide:
| Feature | Rotor Resurfacing | Rotor Replacement |
|---|---|---|
| Cost | Generally lower upfront cost | Higher upfront cost |
| Material Removal | Removes a thin layer of metal | No material removed; new full-thickness rotor |
| Lifespan | Potentially reduced, depending on original thickness and wear | Full lifespan of a new rotor |
| Performance | Restores smooth braking if done correctly and within spec | Optimal braking performance with full material integrity |
| Suitability | Minor imperfections, first brake job, sufficient remaining thickness | Significant warping, deep grooves, below minimum thickness, multiple previous resurfacing jobs |
For most DIY enthusiasts, replacing rotors is often simpler as it eliminates the need for a machine shop and ensures you start with a fresh, optimal braking surface. If you do opt for replacement, ensure you acquire high-quality new rotors that match your Outlander Sport's specifications.
Essential Tools and Parts for the Job
Before you begin any work on your Outlander Sport's rear brakes, gather all the necessary tools and replacement parts. Being well-prepared ensures a smooth and efficient process. For a typical rear brake pad replacement, and potentially rotor replacement, you will need:
- A reliable lug nut wrench
- A sturdy floor jack
- Two secure jack stands
- A 14mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet (or a 14mm wrench)
- A Lisle 28600 disc brake piston tool (essential for 'screw-in' type pistons)
- A tube of high-quality brake parts lubricant grease
- Wheel chocks for safety
- Brake parts cleaner spray
- A rubber mallet (if replacing rotors)
When it comes to replacement brake pads, several compatible sets are available for the 2011-2017 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport. Some commonly recommended part numbers include: Wagner PD1037 (often known as "ThermoQuiet" pads), Power Stop Z23-1679, Centric 105.16790, Mitsubishi 4605B070 (OEM), Monroe GX1679, and ACDelco 17D868C. It is crucial to verify the correct replacement part numbers for your specific model year, as variations exist. Websites with part finders are invaluable for this.
Step-by-Step Rear Brake Pad and Rotor Service
This detailed guide will walk you through the process, assuming you might also consider replacing your rotors if necessary.
1. Preparation and Vehicle Security
Firstly, park your Mitsubishi Outlander Sport on a firm, level surface. Ensure the ignition is turned off. Critically, make sure the emergency/parking brake is not engaged. If the parking brake is applied, you will not be able to remove the rear brake calipers. For maximum safety, place wheel chocks on both sides of the front tyres to prevent any inadvertent movement of the SUV. Slightly loosen the five lug nuts on the rear wheel you intend to work on by turning them anti-clockwise about 1/4 to 1/2 turn using your lug nut wrench.
2. Lifting and Supporting the Vehicle
Carefully raise the rear of the SUV using the floor jack. Once lifted, securely support the vehicle with at least two robust jack stands. For enhanced safety, many mechanics prefer to work on one side of the vehicle at a time, keeping three tyres on the ground. Once the vehicle is safely supported, spin off the five loosened lug nuts and place them in a safe, easily accessible spot. Now, remove the rear wheel, which will reveal the brake rotor, caliper bracket, caliper assembly, and suspension components.
3. Caliper Removal and Pad Inspection
The rear brake caliper is secured to the bracket by two bolts located on the backside of the caliper. Using your 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet, carefully loosen both the top and bottom caliper bolts. Once loosened, spin them out completely and set them aside. With the bolts removed, gently pull the rear caliper out of the bracket and away from the old brake pads. Exercise extreme caution to avoid stressing, kinking, bending, or pulling on the rubber brake hose. Rest the caliper carefully on the suspension components or, even better, suspend it from the spring using a bungee cord or some twine to prevent strain on the brake line.
Now, pull the old inner and outer brake pads out of the bracket. Take a moment to note the position of the wear indicator bar, sometimes called the "squeal" bar, on the old pads. On many Outlander Sport models, this wear indicator is located on the bottom of the inner brake pad. This observation will be helpful during the installation of your new pads.
4. Hardware and Slider Pin Maintenance
If your new set of rear brake pads includes replacement brake hardware, now is the time to remove the old metal pad abutment or "anti-rattle" clips from the top and bottom of the bracket. Clean the bracket thoroughly. Apply a thin, even layer of brake caliper grease to the new pad abutment clips where they will make contact with the bracket or the new brake pads. Carefully push the new pad abutment clips into their respective slots at the top and bottom of the bracket.
For the brake caliper to operate smoothly and ensure even pad wear, the two caliper slider pins must be well lubricated. Pull both caliper slider pins out of their rubber dust boots. Clean them thoroughly. Apply a thin layer of the recommended brake parts lubricant grease to the pins before pushing them back into place. Ensure they slide freely within their boots.
5. Retracting the Caliper Piston
The Mitsubishi Outlander Sport is equipped with 'screw-in' type rear caliper pistons, which cannot simply be pushed back. They require a special tool, such as the Lisle 28600 disc brake piston tool, to be turned back into the caliper. Test-fit the various sides of the tool until you find the one that provides the best grip on the piston's face. Attach the piston tool to a short extension bar and your 3/8" drive ratchet. Slowly turn the ratchet in the clockwise direction to retract the piston back into the caliper until it is just about flush with the rubber dust boot surrounding it. While doing this, periodically check the brake fluid reservoir in the engine bay to ensure it doesn't overflow. If it's nearing the 'MAX' line, you may need to remove a small amount of fluid using a clean syringe.
6. Cleaning and Rotor Decision
Thoroughly clean off the brake rotor, caliper bracket, brake caliper assembly, and the lug studs with brake parts cleaner spray. This step is vital. Never use compressed air or blow with your mouth to clean off brake parts, as inhaling brake dust can be extremely harmful to your health. Brake dust may contain carcinogenic materials. After cleaning, apply a thin layer of brake parts lubricant to any area where there will be metal-to-metal contact, such as the outer lip of the caliper piston where it meets the pad backing plate. It is absolutely crucial NOT to apply brake caliper grease to the friction surface of the new pads or the rotor itself, as this will severely impair braking performance.
This is the critical juncture for your rotor decision. As discussed earlier:
- If your Outlander Sport previously exhibited shuddering, pulsations, or vibrations in the rear during braking, you should either have your rotors resurfaced or, preferably, replace them with brand new rotors.
- If this is the first rear brake job on your SUV and the rotors appear to be in excellent condition (smooth, no deep grooves), you should be able to just replace the pads with great results.
To remove existing rotors and install new ones, you will first need to remove the two larger bolts on the rear of the caliper bracket that attach it to the steering knuckle. Once the bracket is free, the old rotor can often be loosened with a rubber mallet, then pulled off. Slide the new rotor into its place, ensuring it sits flush against the hub. Remember, if you're replacing rotors, you must also replace the brake pads to ensure proper bedding and performance.
7. Installing New Pads and Caliper
Install the two new brake pads into the bracket. Remember the wear indicator bar from earlier? Ensure it is situated at the bottom of the inner brake pad, just like the old one. Push the two pads together gently until they are flush against the rotor (or where the rotor will be if you're installing new rotors). Carefully lower the caliper over the new pads and into the bracket, aligning the two bolt holes in the caliper with their corresponding holes in the caliper slider pins within the bracket.
Spin in the two caliper bolts a few turns by hand in the anti-clockwise direction (as seen from the outside of the SUV) to ensure they do not become cross-threaded. Once hand-tight, tighten the two caliper bolts. The recommended torque specification for these bolts is typically around 30 lb-ft. Use a torque wrench if you have one, or tighten them to just past hand-tight with your ratchet. Double-check that both caliper bolts are securely tightened before proceeding.
8. Brake Fluid and Final Assembly
After completing the mechanical work, it's wise to consider your brake fluid. If your brake pedal has been feeling soft or spongy, it could indicate that the brake fluid is contaminated with water or that the brake lines contain air bubbles. In such cases, it would be highly beneficial to bleed the brake lines at this time to flush out the old fluid and replace it with new DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid, as specified for your Outlander Sport. The brake fluid bleeder valve is located underneath a small rubber cap on the backside of the caliper, typically near the top 14mm bolt. Refer to a specific guide for brake bleeding if you are unfamiliar with the process.
Finally, push the rear wheel back into place. Spin on the five lug nuts a few turns in the clockwise direction to prevent cross-threading. Then, slightly tighten the five lug nuts with your lug nut wrench in a "star" or "criss-cross" pattern. Once the vehicle is back on the ground, give them a final tighten to the manufacturer's recommended torque specification (usually around 80-90 lb-ft for Outlander Sport, but always verify). Before driving, pump the brake pedal several times until it feels firm. This repositions the caliper pistons against the new pads. Take a slow test drive in a safe area to ensure everything is functioning correctly.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
- How often should I check my Outlander Sport's brake rotors?
- It's recommended to have your brake system, including rotors, inspected every 10,000 to 15,000 miles or at least once a year, particularly during tyre rotations or other routine maintenance.
- What are the signs that my rotors need attention?
- Common signs include a pulsing or vibrating sensation in the brake pedal or steering wheel when braking, a grinding noise (often when pads are worn through), visible scoring or deep grooves on the rotor surface, or a blueish tint indicating excessive heat.
- Can I replace just the brake pads without touching the rotors?
- Yes, if your rotors are in excellent condition (smooth, no warping, sufficient thickness) and it's not the first brake job, you can often get away with just replacing the pads. However, for optimal performance and peace of mind, many prefer to replace or resurface rotors with every pad change.
- Is it safe to drive with worn rotors?
- No, driving with significantly worn or warped rotors is unsafe. It compromises braking effectiveness, increases stopping distances, and can lead to premature wear of new pads or even brake failure in extreme cases. Address any rotor issues promptly.
- Do I need special tools for the Outlander Sport's rear calipers?
- Yes, the Outlander Sport uses 'screw-in' type rear caliper pistons, which require a special disc brake piston tool (e.g., Lisle 28600) to retract them. Standard brake piston compressors that push the piston straight back will not work.
By following this guide and understanding the nuances of rotor maintenance, you can ensure your Mitsubishi Outlander Sport's braking system remains reliable and effective, keeping you and your passengers safe on every journey.
If you want to read more articles similar to Outlander Sport Rotors: Resurface or Replace?, you can visit the Maintenance category.
