How do you turn a car with a handbrake?

Mastering Your Handbrake Adjustment

06/03/2011

Rating: 4.08 (10209 votes)

A properly functioning handbrake, often referred to as a parking brake or emergency brake, is an absolutely crucial component of any vehicle. It provides an essential layer of safety, preventing your car from rolling away when parked, especially on inclines, and acts as a vital backup in the unlikely event of main brake failure. A well-maintained handbrake is also a non-negotiable requirement for your annual MOT test here in the UK. Over time, due to normal wear and tear on brake components and the stretching of cables, your handbrake may begin to feel less effective, requiring more clicks to engage fully, or worse, failing to hold the vehicle securely. This guide will walk you through the process of adjusting your handbrake, focusing on the common method involving the brake drum mechanism, allowing you to restore its effectiveness and ensure your peace of mind.

How do you turn a car with a handbrake?
Using the screwdriver rotate the cog a click at a time - the click is the sound of the cog rotating against the spring. Passenger side to increase handbrake rotate the cog upwards. Driver side to increase rotate cog downwards. Apply the handbrake 5 clicks and have a go at turning the wheel.

While this particular adjustment method is common for vehicles equipped with rear drum brake systems, or disc brakes with integrated drum-style parking brakes, it's always wise to consult your vehicle's specific service manual if you're unsure about your car's exact brake setup. However, the principles outlined here are widely applicable and will empower you to perform this important maintenance task yourself, saving you both time and money. All you'll need are a few basic tools and a bit of patience.

Table

Tools You'll Need for the Task

Before you begin, gather the following simple tools. Having them ready will make the entire process smoother and more efficient:

  • A reliable car jack (hydraulic or scissor jack)
  • Axle stands (absolutely essential for safety when working under a raised vehicle)
  • A wheel brace or socket wrench (for removing wheel nuts)
  • A penlight torch (or a bright, focused LED light)
  • A flat-bladed screwdriver (a medium-sized one should suffice)
  • Wheel chocks (to secure the front wheels and prevent any movement)
  • Safety gloves (optional, but recommended for cleanliness and grip)

Always ensure you are working on a flat, stable surface, and never rely solely on a jack to support the vehicle. Axle stands are vital for your personal safety.

The Step-by-Step Handbrake Adjustment Process

This procedure focuses on adjusting the handbrake mechanism located within the rear wheel assembly. It's a precise adjustment that, once understood, becomes quite straightforward.

Step 1: Prepare Your Vehicle Safely

Firstly, park your car on a level, hard surface. Engage the gearbox in first gear (manual) or 'Park' (automatic). Place wheel chocks securely under the front wheels to prevent any movement. Ensure the handbrake is fully disengaged (released) before proceeding.

Step 2: Access the Rear Wheel

Using your wheel brace, slightly loosen the wheel nuts on one of the rear wheels. Do not remove them completely yet, just enough to break their initial torque. Once loosened, position your jack correctly under the designated jacking point for the rear wheel you're working on, as indicated in your car's owner's manual. Carefully jack up the rear wheel until it is clear off the ground. Immediately place an axle stand securely under the vehicle's chassis near the jacking point and gently lower the car onto the stand. This is paramount for your safety.

Step 3: Remove the Wheel and Locate the Bolt Hole

Now that the vehicle is safely supported by the axle stand, you can fully remove the wheel nuts and carefully take off the rear wheel. Set it aside safely. With the wheel removed, you'll see the brake drum (or the brake disc assembly if your car has disc brakes with an integrated drum handbrake). Look closely at the wheel hub or the brake drum itself for a small bolt hole. This hole is typically about the size of a wheel stud hole. This is your access point to the handbrake adjusting mechanism.

Step 4: Position the Bolt Hole for Access

Gently rotate the brake drum (or the wheel hub if the drum is integrated) until the bolt hole is roughly opposite the centre of the brake caliper assembly. For the passenger side (left-hand drive or right-hand drive, assuming you're looking from the side of the car facing the wheel), this will typically be around the 2 o'clock position. For the driver's side, it will be closer to the 10 o'clock position. This positioning is crucial for gaining a clear line of sight and access to the adjusting cog.

Step 5: Identify the Handbrake Adjusting Cog

Now, shine your penlight torch directly through the bolt hole you've positioned. Look carefully inside the drum. You should see a small spring with a cog resting on it. This cog is typically about the thickness and size of two £1 coins stuck together. This is the handbrake adjusting cog. It might take a moment to spot it, but once you recognise its distinctive shape against the background of the brake components, it becomes easier.

Step 6: Adjust the Cog - Click by Click

Insert your flat-bladed screwdriver through the bolt hole, aiming it at the teeth of the adjusting cog. The goal is to rotate this cog, one click at a time. You'll hear a distinct 'click' sound as the cog rotates against the spring. This sound confirms you are successfully turning the mechanism. The direction of rotation depends on which side of the car you are working on and whether you want to increase or decrease the handbrake tension:

  • Passenger Side (Left): To increase the handbrake tension (make it tighter), rotate the cog upwards.
  • Driver Side (Right): To increase the handbrake tension (make it tighter), rotate the cog downwards.

Make sure you are turning the cog in the correct direction to tighten the handbrake. The aim is to expand the brake shoes slightly within the drum, bringing them closer to the drum's inner surface.

Step 7: Test and Refine the Adjustment

Once you've made a few clicks of adjustment, apply the handbrake inside the car by pulling the lever up approximately 5 clicks. Now, go back to the wheel and try to turn the wheel hub/drum by hand. You should notice that it's becoming progressively harder to turn. Continue to adjust the cog one or two clicks at a time, retesting the wheel's resistance each time, until you can no longer turn the wheel by hand with the handbrake applied at 5 clicks. Once you reach this point, turn the cog just a couple more clicks. This should be sufficient.

The ideal final state is when you spin the wheel with the handbrake fully released, you should hear a very slight, almost imperceptible contact with the brake pads/shoes. This indicates that the shoes are properly adjusted close to the drum without dragging excessively, which would cause premature wear and heat.

Step 8: Reassemble and Repeat for the Other Side

Once satisfied with the adjustment on one side, replace the wheel, tighten the wheel nuts by hand, then lower the vehicle off the axle stand and jack. Fully tighten the wheel nuts to the manufacturer's recommended torque using your wheel brace. Repeat the entire process for the other rear wheel. It's crucial to adjust both sides to ensure balanced braking force.

Troubleshooting Common Handbrake Issues

While this method is effective for many handbrake issues, sometimes you might encounter situations that require further attention:

Running Out of Clicks

The adjusting cog typically has a limited range of movement, usually around 10 clicks from fully rotated off. If you find that you've rotated the cog to its maximum extent and the handbrake still feels loose, it indicates that the issue is likely beyond simple shoe adjustment. In such cases, the handbrake cables themselves have likely stretched significantly and will need to be adjusted or, more commonly, replaced. This is a more involved task that might require specialist tools or knowledge. For detailed guidance on cable adjustment, resources like the Russek guide are highly recommended.

Uneven Braking

If one side of your car's handbrake holds better than the other, it could be due to uneven adjustment, worn brake shoes on one side, or a seized cable. Always ensure both sides are adjusted equally.

Symptom of Poor HandbrakePotential CauseRecommended Action
Handbrake feels loose, many clicksStretched cable, worn shoes/pads, maladjustmentAdjust cog, inspect shoes/pads, consider cable replacement
Vehicle rolls on slight incline with handbrake onInsufficient braking force, maladjustmentAdjust cog, check for glazed shoes/drums
Handbrake too stiff, few clicks to engageOver-adjustment, seized cableRelease adjustment (rotate cog opposite direction), lubricate/replace cable
Handbrake pulls to one sideUneven adjustment, seized cable on one side, worn shoes on one sideAdjust both sides equally, inspect cables/shoes

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Q1: How often should I check my handbrake adjustment?

It's a good practice to check your handbrake's effectiveness regularly, perhaps every 6 to 12 months, or if you notice it feels less effective. It's also a standard part of any routine service.

Q2: Can I adjust the handbrake without removing the wheel?

For this specific method, which adjusts the shoes within the drum, removing the wheel is necessary to gain access to the bolt hole and the adjusting cog. Some vehicles might have a central cable adjustment point under the car, but this method focuses on the individual wheel adjustment.

Q3: What if I can't find the adjusting cog through the bolt hole?

Ensure your torch is bright and focused. Rotate the wheel very slowly while looking through the hole; the cog might be hiding. Sometimes the hole needs to be precisely aligned. If you still can't find it, consult your car's service manual for the exact location or consider that your vehicle might use a different handbrake adjustment method (e.g., central cable adjustment only, or a different internal mechanism).

Q4: Is this procedure suitable for all cars?

This method is common for vehicles with rear drum brakes or those with disc brakes that incorporate a small drum-style handbrake inside the rear disc. Many modern cars with rear disc brakes use an electronic parking brake or a caliper-based handbrake system that is adjusted differently. Always verify your car's specific brake system type.

Q5: What does it mean if the wheel still spins easily after maximum cog adjustment?

As mentioned, this usually indicates that the handbrake cables have stretched beyond the point where the internal drum adjustment can compensate. In this scenario, you will need to adjust the cable tension directly, or more likely, replace the stretched cables. It could also indicate severely worn brake shoes that need replacement.

Conclusion

Adjusting your car's handbrake is a straightforward maintenance task that can significantly improve your vehicle's safety and ensure it passes its MOT with flying colours. By following these detailed steps, you can confidently restore your handbrake's performance, gaining a better understanding of your vehicle's mechanics in the process. Remember, safety is always paramount; never take shortcuts when working on your car's braking system. If at any point you feel unsure or uncomfortable with the procedure, it's always best to consult a qualified mechanic. However, for many, this DIY adjustment will be a rewarding and money-saving endeavour.

If you want to read more articles similar to Mastering Your Handbrake Adjustment, you can visit the Maintenance category.

Go up