30/04/2014
Keeping Your Two-Wheeled Companion in Top Condition
Regular maintenance is the cornerstone of a long and healthy life for any motorcycle. Among the most crucial tasks, changing the engine oil stands out. It's not just about lubrication; it's about protecting your engine from wear, keeping it cool, and ensuring optimal performance. While many riders opt for professional servicing, understanding how to perform this vital task yourself can save you money and provide a deeper connection with your machine. This guide will walk you through the process, offering practical advice and insights to make your first, or next, oil change a success.

Gathering Your Tools and Supplies
Before you even think about draining that old oil, ensure you have everything you need readily available. This foresight will prevent frustrating interruptions and potential mistakes. Here’s a comprehensive checklist:
- New Engine Oil: Crucially, use the correct grade and type of oil recommended in your motorcycle's owner's manual. Using the wrong oil can lead to significant engine damage.
- New Oil Filter: Again, ensure it's the correct filter for your specific make and model.
- Wrench for Drain Plug: Typically a socket wrench. The size will vary by motorcycle.
- Oil Filter Wrench: Many types exist, but a cap-style wrench that fits over the filter and attaches to your ratchet is often the easiest to use, especially in tight spaces.
- Oil Catch Pan: Large enough to hold more than the total capacity of your engine oil.
- Funnel: For pouring in the new oil.
- Rags or Paper Towels: For wiping up spills and cleaning parts.
- Gloves: To keep your hands clean and protect them from hot oil.
- New Drain Plug Washer/Crush Washer: It's good practice to replace this every time to ensure a proper seal.
- A Piece of Foam Rubber Placemat: (Optional but highly recommended) This can be a game-changer for keeping your motorcycle clean, especially if your fairings make accessing the oil filter difficult.
- Torque Wrench: For ensuring the drain plug is tightened to the manufacturer's specification.
The Ideal Time to Change Your Oil
Timing is everything when it comes to oil changes. You want the oil to drain easily, but you don't want to risk burning yourself on hot components. The sweet spot is when the engine is slightly warm, not piping hot. Ride your bike for a few minutes to circulate the oil and bring it up to a moderate temperature. This will make the oil less viscous and flow more freely. However, avoid riding it long enough for the exhaust headers or engine casings to become excessively hot, as you'll be working in close proximity to these parts.
Step-by-Step Oil Change Procedure
1. Preparation and Drainage
With your tools assembled and the bike at the ideal temperature, it's time to begin. Place your oil catch pan directly beneath the engine's oil drain plug. Using your socket wrench, carefully loosen the drain plug. Once it's loose enough, you can usually unscrew it by hand. Be prepared for the oil to start flowing immediately. Let the oil drain completely. As it slows to a drip, take a moment to inspect the old oil. Is it unusually thin, thick, or does it contain any metallic particles? Is the colour off? Any of these could indicate potential engine problems that warrant further investigation.
2. Tackling the Oil Filter
Now, reposition your catch pan to be under the oil filter. If you're using the foam placemat trick, now's the time to slide it into place. For many bikes, you can carefully slide it from the front, shaping it into a "U" to catch any drips. Attach your oil filter wrench to the old filter and loosen it. Once it's loose, unscrew it by hand. Be ready for more oil to spill out from the filter housing. The placemat should help direct these initial drips into your catch pan. Once the old filter is removed, ensure the area where it screws on is clean.
Pre-oiling the new filter is a highly recommended step. Take your new oil filter and fill it about two-thirds full with fresh oil. Let it sit for a few minutes to allow the filter media to absorb the oil. You may need to repeat this process until the filter media appears saturated. This helps to ensure that vital engine components receive lubrication immediately upon startup after the oil change, preventing a brief period of dry running.
Next, take some fresh oil on your fingertip and lightly lubricate the rubber gasket on the new oil filter. This prevents the gasket from sticking or tearing when you tighten it. Carefully screw the new filter onto the engine by hand. Tighten it until the gasket makes contact with the engine casing, then tighten it an additional three-quarters to one full turn, or according to the filter manufacturer’s instructions. Overtightening can damage the filter or its seal.
3. Reassembly and Filling
Once the oil has finished draining from both the plug and the filter area, it's time to reassemble. Clean the drain plug and install a new crush washer. Screw the drain plug back into the engine casing and tighten it to the torque specification listed in your owner's manual. Using a torque wrench is crucial here to avoid stripping the threads or not tightening it enough. You can then carefully remove the foam placemat, wipe down any spills, and prepare for filling.
Locate the oil filler cap on your motorcycle. Using your funnel, pour in just under the recommended amount of new oil. Your owner's manual will specify the exact capacity, but it's often best to start with about a quarter of a litre less. For most motorcycles, this will be around 3 to 4 litres. Once filled, replace the filler cap securely.
4. Final Checks and Startup
With the new oil in place, it's time for the crucial checks. Ensure the drain plug and oil filter are properly tightened. Start the engine and let it run for a few minutes. A warning light on your dashboard, often the oil pressure light, may illuminate initially. This is normal as the new oil circulates and the filter fills. The light should extinguish within a few seconds. If it doesn't, shut off the engine immediately and re-check your oil level and filter installation.
Occasionally, an air bubble can get trapped in the oil filter or system, preventing the oil pump from drawing oil effectively. If the oil pressure light remains on, some riders have found success by carefully loosening the oil filter a quarter turn (while the engine is running) and then retightening it. This can sometimes dislodge an air bubble. However, exercise extreme caution when performing this on a running engine.
After the engine has run for a bit, shut it off and let the oil settle for a few minutes. Then, with the motorcycle on level ground and at its balance point, check the oil level in the sight glass or via the dipstick. The oil level should be between the minimum and maximum marks, ideally closer to the maximum. Add small amounts of oil as needed, rechecking the level each time. It's much easier to add a little more oil than it is to remove excess oil.
Common Issues and Troubleshooting
1. Leaks: After starting the engine, carefully inspect around the drain plug and oil filter for any signs of oil leaks. If you find any, shut off the engine and tighten the offending component slightly. If leaks persist, you may need to replace the drain plug washer or check the filter's seating.
2. Low Oil Pressure Light Stays On: As mentioned, this is often due to an airlock. Ensure the filter is correctly seated and tightened. If the problem continues, consult your owner's manual or a professional mechanic.
3. Difficulty Accessing the Oil Filter: Many modern motorcycles have bodywork (fairings) that can make accessing the oil filter a challenge. The foam placemat trick is invaluable here. In some cases, you might need to remove a small section of the fairing. Typically, only the left-side fairing panel needs to be removed to access the oil filter on most bikes.
Why is This So Important?
Your motorcycle's engine oil does more than just lubricate moving parts. It also:
- Cools the Engine: Oil circulates through the engine, carrying away heat generated by friction and combustion.
- Cleans the Engine: It picks up microscopic debris and contaminants, carrying them to the oil filter.
- Protects Against Corrosion: The oil forms a protective barrier on metal surfaces, preventing rust and corrosion.
- Seals Gaps: Oil helps to create a seal between piston rings and cylinder walls, maintaining compression.
Neglecting regular oil changes can lead to increased engine wear, overheating, reduced performance, and ultimately, costly engine failure. It's a relatively simple maintenance task that offers immense benefits.
Frequently Asked Questions
- Q1: How often should I change my motorcycle's oil?
- A1: This depends on your motorcycle, riding style, and the type of oil used. Always refer to your owner's manual. A general guideline is every 3,000-5,000 miles or every 6-12 months, whichever comes first.
- Q2: Can I use car oil in my motorcycle?
- A2: Generally, no. Motorcycle engines operate at higher RPMs and temperatures, and the oil often lubricates the clutch and gearbox as well. Motorcycle-specific oils are formulated to handle these demands. Using car oil can cause clutch slippage and premature wear.
- Q3: What happens if I overtighten the oil filter?
- A3: Overtightening can damage the filter's seal, leading to leaks, or even crush the filter itself, compromising its ability to filter oil effectively. It can also make future removal extremely difficult.
- Q4: Is it okay to use a generic oil filter if it fits?
- A4: While a generic filter might physically fit, it may not meet the precise filtration and flow rate specifications for your engine. Using a filter designed for your specific motorcycle is always recommended for optimal performance and protection.
- Q5: What is a crush washer and why should I replace it?
- A5: The crush washer is a soft metal ring that deforms when the drain plug is tightened, creating a tight seal. Each time it's compressed, it loses some of its ability to seal. Replacing it ensures a leak-free connection.
Changing your motorcycle's oil is a fundamental maintenance task that empowers you to keep your ride in peak condition. By following these steps, paying attention to detail, and using the right parts, you can ensure your engine remains healthy and performs at its best for miles to come. Happy wrenching!
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