Honda Fit/Jazz Front Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing Your Honda Fit/Jazz Front Brake Pads: A DIY Guide

Brake pad replacement is a fundamental aspect of car maintenance, crucial for ensuring your vehicle's safety and performance. If you're experiencing symptoms like a spongy brake pedal, grinding noises, or a warning light on your dashboard, it might be time to replace your front brake pads. This guide is specifically tailored for owners of the 2nd generation Honda Fit or Honda Jazz (model years 2009-2014), but the principles can be applied to similar models within the Honda Global Small Car platform. Performing this task yourself can save you money and give you a greater understanding of your car's mechanics. Let's get started!

Essential Tools and Parts You'll Need

Before you begin, it's vital to gather all the necessary tools and parts. Having everything on hand will make the process smoother and more efficient. For this job, you will require:

• Tire Iron: To loosen and remove the lug nuts.
• Floor Jack: To lift the vehicle safely.
• Jack Stands (2): Crucial for supporting the vehicle's weight once it's lifted. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
• 12mm Socket and Ratcheting Wrench: For removing the caliper bolts.
• "C" or "F" Clamp: To compress the brake caliper piston.
• New Front Brake Pads: Ensure they are compatible with your Honda Fit/Jazz. Some recommended part numbers include Wagner QC621, Akebono ACT1394, Bosch BP1394, Raybestos PGD948C, KFE KFE1394-104, Wagner ZD621, and the OEM Honda 45022-TK6-A00.
• Brake Parts Cleaner: To clean the rotor and caliper bracket.
• High-Pressure Brake Caliper Grease: For lubricating caliper pins.
• Rope or Twine: To safely suspend the brake caliper.
• Optional: CRC Brake Quiet Gel: To help reduce or eliminate braking noise.
• Optional: Torque Wrench: For precise tightening of lug nuts and caliper bolts.
• Optional: New Rotors: If your current rotors are worn, damaged, or show signs of warping (indicated by shuddering or pulsating during braking).

Step-by-Step Brake Pad Replacement

1. Preparation and Wheel Removal

Begin by ensuring the vehicle is parked on a level surface with the parking brake engaged. Remove the plastic wheel cover from the front wheel you'll be working on. Using the tire iron, slightly loosen the four lug nuts on that wheel. Do not remove them completely at this stage. Next, position the floor jack under the designated jacking point for your Honda Fit/Jazz (refer to your owner's manual for the correct location). Raise the vehicle until the wheel is off the ground. Carefully place the two jack stands under the vehicle's frame or designated support points, ensuring they are stable. Slowly lower the vehicle onto the jack stands. Once the vehicle is securely supported, fully remove the lug nuts and then carefully pull the wheel off the hub. Set the wheel aside, preferably under the vehicle as an extra safety precaution.

2. Accessing and Removing the Brake Caliper

With the wheel removed, you'll have a clear view of the brake assembly, including the rotor and the caliper. The caliper is the component that houses the brake pads and presses them against the rotor. Locate the lower caliper bolt, which is typically found on the rear side of the caliper, closest to the engine. Using your 12mm socket and wrench, attempt to loosen and remove this bolt. If the bolt spins freely without loosening, it might be attached to a caliper pin that also needs to be held. In such cases, use a thin spanner wrench or a pair of pliers to hold the caliper pin while you turn the bolt. Once the lower caliper bolt is removed, you should be able to gently pull the caliper away from the brake pads and swing it upwards, away from the rotor. To prevent damage and to keep your hands free, suspend the caliper using a piece of rope or twine, tying it to the suspension spring. This is a crucial step to avoid stressing the brake hose.

3. Removing Old Brake Pads and Hardware

Before removing the brake pads, look for a metal spring clip attached to the front edge of the pads. This clip is designed to reduce vibration and noise. Carefully pull this clip off and set it aside in a safe place, as your new brake pads may or may not come with replacements. Now, you can pull the old brake pads out of the caliper bracket. They might be a bit snug, so a gentle wiggle while pulling should do the trick. Pay close attention to the orientation of the wear indicator, often called a "squeal bar" or "anti-rattle clip." Make a mental note of its position, as the new pads will need to be installed in the same way. This wear indicator is designed to make a noise when the brake pads are nearly worn out, alerting you to replace them. On many Honda Fits, this wear bar is located at the top of the inner brake pad.

4. Inspecting and Preparing Rotors and Caliper

This is a good opportunity to inspect your brake rotors. If they have a smooth surface and no deep grooves or discoloration, you might be able to reuse them. However, if you notice any shuddering or pulsating when braking, your rotors may need to be "turned" (resurfaced) by a professional or, more likely, replaced entirely. If this is the first brake job on the car and the rotors are in excellent condition, simply replacing the pads should suffice. Clean both the brake rotor surface and the caliper bracket with brake parts cleaner to remove any dirt, grease, or brake dust. For an optional step to further reduce noise, you can apply a small amount of brake quiet gel or a similar lubricant to the back of the new brake pads where they meet the caliper piston and bracket. Be careful not to get any lubricant on the pad friction material or the rotor surface.

5. Compressing the Caliper Piston

The new brake pads are typically thicker than the old ones. To fit the caliper back over them, you'll need to retract the caliper piston back into the caliper body. First, locate the brake fluid reservoir under the bonnet (usually a translucent plastic container). Remove the cap to allow the brake fluid to flow back into the reservoir as the piston is compressed. This also helps prevent over-pressurisation of the brake system. Using your "C" or "F" clamp, place the back of an old brake pad against the caliper piston. Slowly and steadily apply pressure with the clamp to push the piston back into its bore until it is flush with the rubber dust boot. Ensure you are compressing it evenly.

6. Installing New Brake Pads and Reassembling the Caliper

With the piston retracted, you can now install the new brake pads into the caliper bracket. Make sure they slide in smoothly. If they feel stiff, check that no debris is obstructing their path. Reinstall the metal spring clip (if supplied with your new pads or if you retained the old one) onto the front of the new pads. Ensure the wear indicator is positioned correctly, usually at the top of the inner pad, as you noted earlier. Gently squeeze the new pads together to ensure they sit flush against the rotor surface. Now, carefully remove the rope or twine and swing the caliper back down over the new pads and rotor. Check that the caliper slides freely over the pads. You may need to slightly wiggle it. Try to move the caliper slightly towards and away from yourself to ensure the upper caliper pin moves freely within its bore. If you feel any resistance, it indicates a potential issue with the caliper pin's lubrication or movement. Next, carefully pull the lower caliper pin out of its rubber dust boot. Inspect it for adequate lubrication. If it's dry or appears to have old, hardened grease, clean it and apply a fresh coat of high-pressure brake caliper grease. Reinsert the lower caliper pin and ensure the rubber dust boot is properly seated. If the upper caliper pin also seemed stiff, it's advisable to lubricate it as well.

7. Securing the Caliper and Final Checks

Align the lower caliper pin with the threaded hole in the caliper bracket. Reinsert the lower caliper bolt and tighten it using your 12mm socket. If you have a torque wrench, tighten it to the manufacturer's specified torque (often around 25 ft-lbs for this bolt, but always check your manual). If you don't have a torque wrench, tighten it until snug, then give it a little extra turn. Ensure both caliper bolts are securely tightened. A common issue after brake work is a "mushy" or spongy brake pedal, which can indicate air in the brake lines or low fluid. If you suspect this, it's an ideal time to bleed your brake lines and replace the brake fluid with fresh DOT 3 fluid. If your brake pedal feels firm, proceed to the next step.

8. Reinstalling the Wheel and Lowering the Vehicle

Place the front wheel back onto the hub. Screw the lug nuts on by hand first to avoid cross-threading. Once they're all on, snug them up with the tire iron in a star or criss-cross pattern. Lower the vehicle using the floor jack until the tire is resting firmly on the ground, but the full weight of the car is not yet on it. Now, use the torque wrench or an impact gun with a torque stick to tighten the lug nuts to the manufacturer's specified torque, typically around 80 lb-ft (108 N*m) for the Honda Fit/Jazz. Again, always verify this specification in your owner's manual. Ensure all lug nuts are properly tightened. Replace the plastic wheel cover if applicable, and then fully lower the vehicle and remove the floor jack.

9. Post-Replacement Procedure

Get into the driver's seat and pump the brake pedal several times. You'll notice it will feel firm up and down; this process seats the caliper piston against the new brake pads. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. If it's above the "COLD" line, you may need to remove a small amount of fluid using a turkey baster or syringe. If it's below the "COLD" line, add a small amount of new DOT 3 brake fluid. Finally, securely replace the brake fluid reservoir cap by twisting it clockwise. It's advisable to "bed in" your new brake pads by performing several moderate stops from around 30-40 mph, followed by a period of gentle driving without heavy braking. This helps the pads and rotors to mate properly for optimal performance.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Q1: How often should I replace my brake pads?
This depends heavily on your driving habits and conditions. A general guideline is every 20,000 to 50,000 miles, but it's best to inspect them regularly. Listen for any unusual noises and check the wear indicator.

Q2: Can I replace just the brake pads, or do I need to replace the rotors too?
If your rotors are smooth, flat, and haven't warped (no pulsing or shuddering when braking), you can often just replace the pads. However, if the rotors are grooved, glazed, or warped, replacing them along with the pads is recommended for optimal braking performance and longevity.

Q3: What does the "squeal bar" or wear indicator do?
This is a small metal tab attached to the brake pad. When the pad material wears down to a certain thickness, this tab contacts the rotor, creating an audible squealing noise to alert you that the pads need replacement.

Q4: Is it safe to drive with worn brake pads?
No, it is not safe. Worn brake pads significantly reduce your vehicle's stopping power, increasing the risk of accidents. Driving with severely worn pads can also damage your rotors, leading to more expensive repairs.

Q5: What kind of brake fluid should I use?
For most Honda Fit/Jazz models, DOT 3 brake fluid is recommended. Always consult your owner's manual to confirm the correct type for your specific vehicle.

Conclusion

Replacing your front brake pads on a Honda Fit or Jazz is a manageable DIY task with the right tools and a methodical approach. By following these steps carefully, you can maintain your vehicle's braking system, ensure your safety on the road, and potentially save money on maintenance costs. Remember to always prioritize safety by using jack stands and double-checking your work.

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