27/05/2010
Maintaining the braking system on your Honda Goldwing is paramount for both your safety and the longevity of your beloved touring machine. The rear brake caliper, a vital component in this system, can wear out or seize over time, leading to reduced stopping power, uneven brake wear, or even dangerous brake fade. Replacing a faulty rear brake caliper might seem daunting, but with the right tools, a methodical approach, and a bit of patience, it's a task many home mechanics can confidently undertake. This guide will walk you through the process, ensuring your Goldwing's rear brakes are as responsive and reliable as they should be.

Before you begin, ensure you have a clean, well-lit workspace and all the necessary tools and parts. Safety is always the top priority when working on your motorcycle. Make sure the bike is stable and secure before attempting any work.
- Essential Tools and Materials
- Safety First: Precautions Before You Start
- Diagnosing a Faulty Rear Caliper
- Step-by-Step Replacement Guide
- Common Issues and Troubleshooting
- Comparative Table: OEM vs. Aftermarket Calipers
- Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
- Q1: How often should I replace my Goldwing's brake calipers?
- Q2: Can I just rebuild my old caliper instead of replacing it?
- Q3: What type of brake fluid should I use for my Honda Goldwing?
- Q4: Do I need to replace brake pads when replacing the caliper?
- Q5: What are the signs of air in the brake lines after replacement?
Essential Tools and Materials
- New Honda Goldwing rear brake caliper (OEM or high-quality aftermarket)
- New brake pads (it's always recommended to replace pads when replacing the caliper)
- Brake fluid (DOT 4 is typically recommended for Goldwings; check your owner's manual)
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Socket set and wrenches (various sizes, including those for caliper bolts and wheel nuts)
- Torque wrench
- Brake cleaner
- Wire brush (for cleaning mounting points)
- Brake bleeder kit or a clear hose and container for bleeding
- Shop rags or towels
- Drain pan for old brake fluid
- Gloves and eye protection
- Motorcycle stand or lift (essential for stability)
Safety First: Precautions Before You Start
Working with brake components and fluids requires careful attention to safety. Brake fluid is corrosive to paint and can irritate skin, so always wear appropriate personal protective equipment. Ensure your motorcycle is securely supported on a sturdy stand or lift. Never work under a bike supported only by a kickstand. Always allow the exhaust system to cool down completely before starting, as it can get extremely hot.
Diagnosing a Faulty Rear Caliper
How do you know if your rear brake caliper needs replacing? Common symptoms include a spongy brake pedal, a brake that sticks or drags, uneven pad wear (one pad significantly more worn than the other), fluid leaks around the caliper, or a noticeable reduction in braking efficiency. A seized piston is a common culprit, preventing the pads from engaging or releasing properly. If you've observed any of these signs, it's time to consider a replacement.
Step-by-Step Replacement Guide
Preparation and Initial Access
First, park your Goldwing on a level surface and secure it on its centre stand or a dedicated motorcycle lift. This provides the stability needed for safe work. If you plan to remove the wheel for better access or to replace the rotor, now would be the time to loosen the rear wheel nuts while the bike is still on the ground, before fully lifting it.
Step 1: Pushing Back the Brake Pads
With the wheel in place (or removed, if preferred), the initial step involves creating space for the new, thicker brake pads. Use a large flat-blade screwdriver or a dedicated brake pad spreader to gently pry the old pads apart, pushing the caliper pistons back into their bores. This action will force brake fluid back up into the master cylinder reservoir. As you push the pads back and they bottom out, hold them there for a few seconds to ensure the pistons are fully retracted. This is crucial for easy removal of the old caliper and installation of the new one. Keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir level; if it's overfilled, fluid may overflow once the pistons are fully retracted. You might need to remove a small amount of fluid with a syringe if this is the case, but be cautious not to introduce air.
Step 2: Disconnecting the Brake Line
Locate the brake line banjo bolt connecting the brake hose to the caliper. Place a drain pan underneath to catch any dripping brake fluid. Using the correct size wrench, carefully loosen and remove the banjo bolt. Be prepared for fluid to leak out. Immediately cap or plug the open end of the brake line to minimise fluid loss and prevent air from entering the system. Some mechanics prefer to clamp the brake line with a special hose clamp, but this must be done carefully to avoid damaging the hose.
Step 3: Removing the Old Caliper
Once the brake line is disconnected, you can proceed to remove the caliper mounting bolts. These are typically two bolts that secure the caliper to the swingarm or caliper bracket. Use the appropriate size socket or wrench. Once these bolts are removed, the old caliper should slide off the brake rotor. It may require a little wiggling if the pads are still slightly engaged. Inspect the caliper mounting bracket and area for any corrosion or debris and clean it thoroughly with a wire brush and brake cleaner.
Step 4: Installing the New Caliper
Before installing the new caliper, ensure it comes with new copper washers for the banjo bolt; these are critical for a leak-free seal. Place one new copper washer on the banjo bolt, then thread the bolt through the brake line fitting, and place another new copper washer on the other side of the fitting. Carefully align the brake line with the new caliper's banjo bolt hole and thread the banjo bolt in by hand to avoid cross-threading. Do not fully tighten it yet.
Carefully slide the new caliper over the brake rotor, ensuring the brake pads (if pre-installed) straddle the rotor correctly. Align the caliper mounting holes with the mounting points on your Goldwing. Insert the caliper mounting bolts and hand-tighten them. Once both bolts are in place, tighten them to the manufacturer's specified torque settings using a torque wrench. Refer to your Honda Goldwing service manual for the exact torque values; typically, these are between 25-35 lb-ft for caliper mounting bolts.
Step 5: Tightening the Banjo Bolt
Now, tighten the banjo bolt connecting the brake line to the new caliper. This bolt also has a specific torque specification, usually around 15-20 lb-ft. Overtightening can strip threads or damage the banjo fitting, leading to leaks, while undertightening will result in leaks. Ensure the brake line is not twisted or kinked during this process. After tightening, wipe away any residual brake fluid and inspect for immediate leaks.
Step 6: Bleeding the Brake System
This is arguably the most critical step to ensure proper brake function. Since you've opened the brake system, air will have entered, and it must be removed. Locate the bleed nipple on the new caliper. Attach a clear hose to the bleed nipple and place the other end into a clean container partially filled with old brake fluid (this helps you see air bubbles). Ensure your brake fluid reservoir is topped up with fresh, clean DOT 4 brake fluid.
The bleeding process typically involves a two-person operation, but a one-person bleeder kit can also be used. Have one person slowly pump the rear brake pedal a few times until firm pressure is felt. Hold the pedal down. The second person then quickly opens the bleed nipple for a second or two, allowing fluid and air bubbles to escape into the hose, then closes it. Release the brake pedal. Repeat this process, ensuring the brake fluid reservoir never runs dry, as this will introduce more air. Continue until no more air bubbles are visible in the fluid coming out of the bleed hose. The brake pedal should feel firm and consistent.
After bleeding, firmly tighten the bleed nipple. Clean up any spilled brake fluid immediately with brake cleaner and rags, as it can damage painted surfaces.
Step 7: Final Checks and Testing
Once the caliper is installed and the brakes are bled, perform a thorough visual inspection. Check all connections for leaks, ensuring all bolts are torqued correctly. Pump the rear brake pedal several times to build pressure and confirm it feels firm. Spin the rear wheel to ensure there's no drag from the new pads. If you removed the rear wheel, reinstall it and torque the wheel nuts to specification. For the Goldwing, rear axle nut torque is typically quite high, often over 80 lb-ft, so consult your manual.
Before riding, slowly push the bike forward and apply the rear brake to ensure it engages properly. Start with short, low-speed test rides in a safe area, gradually increasing speed and testing the brakes. Listen for any unusual noises and feel for any sponginess or lack of responsiveness. New brake pads require a 'bedding-in' period, during which they achieve their optimal friction characteristics. Avoid hard braking during the first 100-200 miles to allow the pads to properly seat against the rotor.
Common Issues and Troubleshooting
Spongy Brake Pedal After Bleeding
If your brake pedal still feels spongy, it almost certainly means there's still air in the system. Re-bleed the brakes, paying extra attention to technique and ensuring no air is drawn back in through the bleed nipple or reservoir. Sometimes, tapping the brake line gently can help dislodge stubborn air bubbles.
Brake Fluid Leakage
Check the banjo bolt for proper torque and ensure the new copper washers were used and correctly seated. Inspect the bleed nipple for tightness. If the leak persists, the caliper itself may be faulty (rare for a new part) or the brake line might be damaged.
Uneven Pad Wear
If, after some time, you notice uneven pad wear, it could indicate that the caliper pistons are not moving freely or the caliper is not floating correctly on its pins. Ensure the caliper mounting points and slide pins (if applicable) are clean and lubricated with appropriate brake grease (not petroleum-based).
Comparative Table: OEM vs. Aftermarket Calipers
When choosing a replacement caliper, you'll often encounter options from Honda (OEM) and various aftermarket manufacturers. Here's a quick comparison:
| Feature | OEM Calipers (Honda) | Aftermarket Calipers |
|---|---|---|
| Price | Generally higher | Often more affordable |
| Quality Assurance | Guaranteed fit and performance, designed specifically for your Goldwing. Rigorous testing. | Varies widely by brand. Reputable brands offer good quality, but cheaper options can be unreliable. |
| Longevity | Designed for long-term durability, matching original factory specifications. | Can be comparable to OEM with high-quality brands, but unknown brands might have shorter lifespans. |
| Availability | Available through Honda dealerships and parts suppliers. | Wide availability from various online retailers and auto parts stores. |
| Warranty | Typically backed by Honda's parts warranty. | Varies by manufacturer; usually shorter than OEM warranties. |
For critical components like brakes, many Goldwing owners prefer to stick with OEM parts for peace of mind, though a high-quality aftermarket caliper from a reputable brand can also be an excellent choice.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Q1: How often should I replace my Goldwing's brake calipers?
Brake calipers don't have a fixed replacement schedule. They should be replaced when they show signs of failure, such as seizing, leaking, or causing uneven brake pad wear. Regular inspection during brake pad changes can help identify issues early.
Q2: Can I just rebuild my old caliper instead of replacing it?
Yes, many calipers can be rebuilt using a caliper rebuild kit, which typically includes new seals and dust boots. This is often a more cost-effective option. However, if the caliper body is corroded, pitted, or severely damaged, replacement is the safer and more reliable option. Rebuilding requires careful cleaning and attention to detail.
Q3: What type of brake fluid should I use for my Honda Goldwing?
Most Honda Goldwings use DOT 4 brake fluid. Always refer to your owner's manual or the cap on your brake fluid reservoir to confirm the correct type. Using the wrong type of fluid can damage your brake system components.
Q4: Do I need to replace brake pads when replacing the caliper?
It is highly recommended to replace brake pads whenever you replace a caliper. New calipers often come with new pads, but if not, install a fresh set. This ensures optimal braking performance and prevents potential issues from old, worn, or unevenly worn pads affecting the new caliper.
Q5: What are the signs of air in the brake lines after replacement?
The most common sign is a 'spongy' or 'mushy' brake pedal that feels soft and travels further than usual before engaging the brakes. You might also notice reduced braking power. This indicates that the air is compressing within the system, rather than the fluid effectively transferring pressure to the caliper pistons.
Replacing the rear brake caliper on your Honda Goldwing is a significant maintenance task that, when done correctly, ensures your motorcycle's braking system is in top condition. By following these detailed steps, paying attention to torque specifications, and performing thorough checks, you can confidently restore your Goldwing's stopping power and enjoy many more miles of safe and enjoyable riding. Remember, when in doubt, consult your official Honda Goldwing service manual or seek professional assistance.
If you want to read more articles similar to Honda Goldwing Rear Brake Caliper Replacement, you can visit the Brakes category.
