08/04/2001
The Fox Float RP2 has been a ubiquitous rear damper on countless mountain bikes, known for its adjustability and relatively light weight. However, many riders, myself included, have found its performance somewhat underwhelming, particularly regarding its mid-stroke support and the perceived lack of serviceability or tuning options at home. This article aims to pull back the curtain on the RP2's internal mechanics, demystifying its operation and, crucially, exploring the potential for home servicing and advanced tuning that could transform its ride characteristics. We'll delve into its intricate design, address its inherent limitations, and outline a path towards a more customisable and high-performing suspension unit.

The Intricate Dance of the Fox RP2 Damper's Internals
Upon first glance, or more accurately, upon cracking it open, the Fox RP2 damper reveals a design that, while aiming for sophistication, can be perceived as overly complex for its actual performance. It operates on a peculiar two-stage compression piston system, neither of which are floating pistons in the traditional sense, but rather two static pistons working in conjunction. This arrangement is central to its damping philosophy, for better or worse.
The initial stage of compression damping is handled by a rather unconventional setup. Instead of a typical shim stack, it employs a large, rigid steel washer to plug off the main port on the compression piston. This washer isn't just sitting there; it's preloaded by a series of concave spring washers, also known as wave washers. These spring washers provide a distinct threshold for damping. When compression forces fluid against this assembly, a certain amount of pressure is required to overcome the preload of these spring washers, allowing the steel washer to lift and oil to flow past. This acts as a rudimentary platform, offering some initial resistance before the main damping circuit engages. It's not a true platform, but more of a pressure-sensitive gate.
Once the fluid has bypassed this initial spring washer assembly, it then flows into a perforated foot bolt. From there, it's directed into the centre of the upper compression piston, where it finally encounters a more conventional damping mechanism: an orifice leading to a traditional shim stack. This shim stack is responsible for the secondary stage of compression damping. The ProPedal feature, a hallmark of Fox shocks, works by either engaging or bypassing this lower wave plate assembly. When ProPedal is 'open', it effectively bypasses this initial threshold, allowing for a more fluid and less restricted flow, theoretically providing a more 'active' feel.
However, a critical observation from a tear-down suggests a potential flaw in this design. It appears that only a limited amount of oil is actually directed through this upper compression shim stack. The bulk of the fluid seems to bypass the piston entirely once the lower spring washer assembly opens sufficiently. This theory aligns perfectly with the common rider complaint that the RP2 often 'blows through its travel' and exhibits poor mid-stroke support. Essentially, the damping relies heavily on a port orifice until that's overcome, then switches to a shim stack, and then, if the forces are high enough, it seems to just open up, offering minimal resistance. This design also highlights a significant omission: there doesn't appear to be any dedicated circuit for bottom-out control within the damper itself.
This absence of specific bottom-out damping means that the responsibility for preventing harsh bottom-outs falls almost entirely on the air can. The air spring's natural ramp-up in rate is expected to provide the necessary resistance towards the end of the stroke. This often results in a scenario where the shock needs to be run with a higher-than-ideal air pressure to prevent bottoming out, leading to an 'oversprung' yet 'under-damped' feel. While the Fox rebound circuit, typically a conventional shim stack arrangement, generally performs very well, its effectiveness in controlling the kick-back from an oversprung air spring can only go so far. This raises the question: if a conventional shim stack works so well for rebound, why not for compression across the board?
The Case for Home Servicing and Advanced Tuning
The original frustration with the RP2's performance and lack of user-serviceability at home is a common sentiment. The complexity of its internal design, coupled with its perceived limitations, has often led riders to replace the shock entirely. However, for those with a spare RP2 or a desire to truly understand and modify their suspension, a path to home servicing and tuning exists.
One of the most promising avenues for improvement lies in modifying the compression circuit. It's theorised that the lower piston, with its large steel washer and wave springs, could be completely removed. In its place, a conventional, easily tunable shim stack could be installed. This modification would allow for a much smoother, more controlled, and, critically, adjustable compression curve. By replacing the somewhat crude threshold damping with a finely tuned shim stack, riders could achieve better mid-stroke support and a more progressive feel throughout the travel, tailored precisely to their weight and riding style.
Such a conversion could also open up possibilities for bottom-out control. With a well-designed shim stack, damping could become a primary means of controlling bottom-out, rather than solely relying on the air spring's ramp-up. This approach mirrors how coil shocks achieve their excellent bottom-out characteristics, offering a more damped and controlled feel at the end of the stroke. For many bikes, this could mean the option of using a larger air can for more linearity early in the travel, with damping providing the necessary progression later on.
Another crucial component often overlooked or misunderstood is the IFP (Internal Floating Piston). During a tear-down, the IFP's location and proper setting are paramount. The IFP separates the oil from the nitrogen (or air) charge, preventing cavitation and ensuring consistent damping. Its position and pressure are critical for the shock's performance, influencing everything from cavitation prevention to bottom-out resistance. While its exact setting is often a closely guarded secret, online calculators and community knowledge can help determine the ideal position for a given shock. Furthermore, by incorporating a Schrader valve and a short tube arrangement, the IFP chamber can be easily filled and its pressure adjusted. This adjustability could serve as another powerful tool for fine-tuning bottom-out characteristics, offering yet another layer of control over the shock's performance.
It's important to remember that these advanced tuning concepts are based on observations from a torn-down RP2 and theoretical modifications. They represent a DIY approach to transforming a standard shock into a highly customisable unit. The goal is to evolve the RP2 into something akin to an RPC (Remote ProPedal Custom), with truly adjustable low-speed compression damping.
Essential Fox Float RP2 Maintenance for Longevity and Performance
Before diving into advanced tuning, understanding the basics of Fox Float RP2 maintenance is crucial. Proper care ensures your shock performs reliably and extends its lifespan. While internal damper servicing is often recommended for authorised centres, many routine tasks can be performed at home.
Installing Your Shock
When installing your shock, especially if it's not original equipment, ensure all parts clear the frame and swingarm throughout the entire suspension travel. To do this, release all air from the main air chamber, cycle the suspension, and check for any contact. Re-pressurise the main air chamber to a minimum of 50 PSI and a maximum of 300 PSI. The precise air pressure will be set later during the sag adjustment.
General Maintenance Practices
- A small amount of air sleeve lubricant residue on the body is normal. If absent, the air sleeve likely needs re-lubrication.
- For extreme riding conditions, service your shock and air sleeve more frequently than the standard schedule.
- Always wash your shock with mild soap and water only.
- Never use a high-pressure washer to clean your shock, as this can force water past seals and cause internal damage.
- Avoid solvents or de-greasers, as they can damage the shock’s finish or anodised parts.
- Do not spray water directly onto the seal/shock body junction.
Before You Ride: Pre-Ride Checks
A quick inspection before each ride can prevent issues:
- Clean the shock exterior with mild soap and water, wiping dry with a soft cloth.
- Inspect the entire exterior for any signs of damage. Do not ride if parts appear damaged; seek professional inspection.
- Ensure quick-release levers or thru-axle pinch bolts are properly tightened.
- Check headset adjustment and adjust according to your bicycle manufacturer's recommendations.
- Verify that all brake cables or hoses are securely fastened and test brake operation on level ground.
Setting Your Sag: The Foundation of Good Suspension
Sag is the amount your suspension compresses under your body weight in your normal riding position. Setting it correctly is fundamental to optimal suspension performance.

- Measure your bike's shock travel (e.g., 2.00 inches / 50.8 mm).
- Consult a sag guideline (typically 25% of travel). For a 2.00-inch travel shock, 25% sag would be 0.50 inches (12.7 mm).
- With your riding gear on, sit on your bike in a normal riding position. Have a friend measure the compressed length of the shock eye-to-eye or use the O-ring on the shaft.
- If your measured sag is less than the target, release air pressure in 5 PSI increments.
- If your measured sag is greater than the target, add air pressure in 5 PSI increments.
- Repeat until your target sag is achieved, then replace the air valve cap.
Here’s a simplified sag guideline table:
| Shock Travel (in./mm) | 25% Sag (in./mm) |
|---|---|
| 1.00 / 25.4 | 0.25 / 6.4 |
| 1.50 / 38.1 | 0.38 / 9.5 |
| 2.00 / 50.8 | 0.50 / 12.7 |
| 2.25 / 57.1 | 0.56 / 14.2 |
Adjusting Rebound: Controlling the Return
Rebound damping dictates how quickly your shock extends after compression. The ideal setting is a personal preference, influenced by rider weight, riding style, and trail conditions. A good rule of thumb is to set rebound as fast as possible without the shock 'kicking back' and unsettling the rider.
- The red adjuster knob controls rebound and typically offers 8-10 clicks.
- Turn the red knob clockwise for slower rebound.
- Turn the red knob counter-clockwise for faster rebound.
Understanding ProPedal: Efficiency on the Climb
The ProPedal lever on your RP2 allows for on-the-fly adjustment of pedal-induced suspension bob. It has two main settings:
| Setting | Description | Recommended Use |
|---|---|---|
| OPEN | Minimal ProPedal damping, allowing full suspension activity. | Descending, rough terrain, maximum bump absorption. |
| PROPEDAL | Increased low-speed compression damping to reduce pedal bob. | Climbing, smooth trails, fire roads, increasing pedalling efficiency. |
Experiment with both settings to find what works best for your riding conditions. For instance, engage ProPedal for climbs and switch to Open for descents to maximise efficiency and comfort.
DIY Tuning Potential: From RP2 to RPC?
The journey from a standard Fox Float RP2 to a potentially more refined and adjustable damper, perhaps even a home-brewed RPC equivalent, is an exciting prospect for the mechanically inclined rider. The ability to remove the original lower piston assembly and replace it with a custom-tuned shim stack offers unparalleled control over the shock's compression characteristics. Imagine being able to precisely dial in your low-speed compression (LSC) to eliminate wallowing, enhance mid-stroke support, and prevent harsh bottom-outs, all within the confines of your own workshop.
This level of customisation moves beyond the factory settings, allowing the shock to be perfectly matched to your weight, riding style, and even specific trail conditions. The addition of an adjustable IFP pressure, potentially through a simple Schrader valve modification, further expands the tuning possibilities, offering another layer of control over the shock's behaviour, particularly at the end of its travel.
The ultimate vision is to develop a comprehensive, start-to-finish guide for disassembling, custom tuning, re-charging, and reassembling the Fox Float RPx series shocks at home. This would empower riders to take full control of their suspension, transforming a good-but-flawed component into a truly high-performance piece of kit. Such a project thrives on community input and shared knowledge, so contributions and insights into the operation of these circuits are highly valued.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
What exactly is ProPedal on the Fox RP2?
ProPedal is a damping platform designed to reduce suspension bob caused by pedalling forces. On the RP2, it has two positions (Open and ProPedal) that essentially engage or bypass a low-speed compression damping circuit to stiffen the shock for more efficient climbing and flatter terrain.
How often should I service my Fox RP2 shock?
For general riders, Fox recommends an air sleeve service every 50 hours of riding or annually, whichever comes first. Full internal damper service is typically recommended every 100-200 hours or annually, but this can vary based on riding conditions. If you ride in extreme or wet conditions, more frequent servicing is advisable.
Can I use a high-pressure washer to clean my Fox shock?
No, absolutely not. High-pressure washers can force water past seals, contaminating the oil and leading to premature wear or damage to internal components. Always clean your shock with mild soap and water and wipe it dry with a soft cloth.
Why is setting sag so important for my suspension?
Sag is crucial because it allows the suspension to extend into depressions on the trail, maintaining tyre contact and improving traction. It also ensures the shock operates within its optimal travel range, providing both small bump compliance and bottom-out resistance. Incorrect sag can lead to a harsh ride, poor traction, or excessive bottoming out.
What is the IFP (Internal Floating Piston) and why does it matter?
The IFP is a piston inside the damper body that separates the damping oil from a compressed gas (usually nitrogen or air) chamber. Its purpose is to prevent cavitation (the formation of air bubbles in the oil due to pressure changes) during rapid shaft movement. Proper IFP depth and pressure are vital for consistent damping performance and can also influence the shock's bottom-out characteristics.
Important Points to Note
The insights into the internal workings and the proposed modifications for the Fox Float RP2 are largely based on a detailed tear-down and theoretical understanding. While the general maintenance procedures are standard Fox recommendations, the advanced tuning discussions are experimental and intended for those comfortable with intricate mechanical work. Always exercise caution when disassembling suspension components and consult official service manuals where possible. The goal is to empower riders to understand and improve their equipment, but professional assistance should always be considered for tasks beyond your comfort level or expertise.
If you want to read more articles similar to Unravelling the Fox RP2: Service & Tune Guide, you can visit the Suspension category.
