Ford Fusion Rear Brake Pad Replacement Guide

Ensuring your vehicle's braking system is in top condition is paramount for road safety. Worn brake pads not only compromise stopping power but can also lead to more extensive and costly damage to other components, such as the brake rotors. This detailed guide is meticulously crafted to assist owners of the 2006 to 2012 Ford Fusion sedan in undertaking the crucial task of replacing their rear brake pads. While specifically tailored for the Fusion, much of the information and techniques described herein can also prove highly beneficial for owners of related Ford, Lincoln, Mazda, and Mercury models, including the Ford Edge, Mondeo, Fiesta, Focus, Taurus, Escape, Flex, Lincoln MKX, MKZ, Zephyr, Mazda CX-9, Mazda6, and Mercury Milan. By following these instructions carefully, you can confidently restore your vehicle's braking performance and extend the life of your braking system.

Understanding Your Ford Fusion's Braking System

Before diving into the replacement process, it's helpful to understand the basic components of your rear braking system. The primary parts you'll be interacting with are the brake pads, the brake caliper, and the brake rotor. The pads are friction materials that clamp down on the rotor, slowing the wheel. The caliper houses the piston that pushes the pads, and the rotor is the spinning disc that the pads grip. Over time, the brake pads wear down, reducing their effectiveness and requiring replacement. Timely replacement prevents the metal backing plate of the pads from grinding against the rotor, which can cause significant damage and a much more expensive repair.

Essential Tools for the Job

Having the right tools makes any maintenance job significantly easier and safer. For this rear brake pad replacement, you will need the following:

• Floor Jack: For safely raising the vehicle.
• Jack Stands: Absolutely crucial for securely supporting the vehicle once raised. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
• Lug Nut Wrench (or Tyre Iron): To loosen and tighten the wheel lug nuts.
• 14mm Socket with Ratcheting Wrench: For removing the caliper bolts.
• Lisle 28600 Disc Brake Piston Tool: Essential for retracting the screw-in type rear brake piston. Other brands may work, but this model is highly effective.
• Pliers or Spanner Wrench: Useful for various small tasks, including potentially assisting with caliper pins or clips.
• Brake Parts Cleaner Spray: To clean the brake components.
• Shop Rags: For cleaning and wiping.
• High Pressure Moly Grease or Silicone Based Brake Caliper Grease: For lubricating caliper slider pins.
• Optional: CRC "Disc Brake Quiet" gel: To prevent squealing.
• Optional: New Metal Anti-Rattle Clips: If your new pads don't include them, or if the old ones are worn.

Choosing the Right Replacement Pads

The aftermarket offers a wide array of rear brake pads compatible with the 2006-2012 Ford Fusion. Quality matters when it comes to braking components. Some well-regarded options and their typical part numbers include:

• Wagner ThemoQuiet PD1161
• ACDelco 17D1161CH
• Raybestos ATD1161C
• Bendix D1161
• Akebono ACT1161
• Monroe CX1161
• Wearever Gold GNAD 1161
• ACDelco 14D1161CH
• Dura International BP1161 C

Many mechanics and DIY enthusiasts, including the original author of the source material for this guide, have found the Wagner ThemoQuiet PD1161 brake pads to be an excellent choice. They are often praised for their built-in insulators, which can negate the need for separate backing plates, shims, or disc brake quiet gel, simplifying the installation process and reducing potential noise.

Safety First: Preparing Your Vehicle

Before any work begins, always prioritise safety. This job involves lifting your vehicle, so proper preparation is non-negotiable.

1. Chock the Front Wheels: Place wheel chocks securely in front of and behind the front wheels. This prevents the vehicle from rolling while you're working on the rear.
2. Slightly Loosen Rear Lug Nuts: While the vehicle is still on the ground, use your lug nut wrench to slightly loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheel you intend to work on. Just a quarter turn or so is enough to break them free. This is much easier to do when the wheel can't spin.
3. Raise the Vehicle: Position your floor jack under a strong, designated jacking point on the rear of the vehicle (refer to your owner's manual if unsure). Slowly raise the vehicle until the wheel is completely off the ground.
4. Secure with Jack Stands: Once the vehicle is raised, immediately place jack stands under appropriate support points near the jacking point. Lower the vehicle slowly onto the jack stands, ensuring it is stable and secure before proceeding. Give the vehicle a gentle shake to confirm stability.
5. Remove the Rear Wheel: With the vehicle securely supported, spin off the five lug nuts you previously loosened. Carefully remove the rear wheel and set it aside. This will expose the rear brake rotor, caliper, and caliper bracket.

Removing the Old Pads: A Step-by-Step Guide

Now that the wheel is off, you can access the braking components.

1. Locate Caliper Bolts: The upper and lower caliper bolts are situated on the back side of the brake caliper. These are typically 14mm bolts.
2. Remove Caliper Bolts: Using your 14mm socket and ratcheting wrench, remove both the upper and lower caliper bolts. As seen from the outside of the wheel, you will turn them clockwise to loosen and remove them.
3. Remove the Caliper: Carefully pull the rear brake caliper off the rotor. Be mindful of the brake line; do not let the caliper hang by the brake line, as this can damage it. Rest the caliper securely on the rear suspension components. Before you set it aside, make a mental note, or even take a picture, of how the "screw in" rear brake caliper piston is oriented. It typically looks like a "+" sign when viewed through the front of the caliper. This orientation is crucial for proper reassembly. If you encounter difficulty removing the caliper, ensure the emergency/parking brake is not engaged.
4. Inspect and Lubricate Slider Pins: Remove the caliper slider pins from their rubber dust boots. These pins allow the caliper to float and move freely. Check them for rust or binding. If they appear dry, clean them thoroughly and apply a small amount of high-pressure moly grease or a silicone-based brake caliper grease. This lubrication is vital for proper brake operation and even pad wear. Once lubricated, re-insert the caliper pins into their corresponding dust boots.
5. Remove Old Brake Pads: The old brake pads are now accessible within the caliper bracket. Simply pull them out. If they are stubborn, try wiggling them gently while pulling away from the rotor.
6. Clean Components: Before installing new pads, it's good practice to clean the brake rotor, caliper, and bracket thoroughly. Use brake parts cleaner spray and a clean shop rag to remove brake dust and grime.
7. Optional: Apply Brake Quiet Gel: To help prevent potential braking noise or squeal, you can optionally apply a thin layer of CRC "Disc Brake Quiet" gel or a similar product to the rear of the new brake pads. This is the side that comes into contact with the caliper. Crucially, never apply anything to the friction surface of the new pads.
8. Assess Your Rotors: While the pads are off, inspect your brake rotors. If your vehicle exhibits shuddering, pulsating, or vibrations while braking, the rotors may be warped or have uneven wear. In such cases, you might need to have your rotors "turned" (resurfaced by a machine) or, for best results and longevity, replace them altogether with brand new rotors. If this is the car's first rear brake job and the rotors appear in excellent condition (smooth, no deep grooves), you should be able to just replace the pads and achieve great results.

Retracting the Caliper Piston: A Crucial Step

New brake pads are thicker than worn ones, so the caliper piston must be pushed back into the caliper body to make room. The Ford Fusion's rear calipers use a screw-in type piston, requiring a special tool.

1. Prepare Brake Fluid Reservoir: Move to the engine bay and twist off the brake fluid reservoir cap by turning it counter-clockwise. This allows the brake fluid to more easily travel backwards through the system as the piston is retracted, preventing pressure build-up. Keep an eye on the fluid level during the next step to prevent overflow.
2. Use the Piston Tool: Take your Lisle 28600 disc brake piston tool. Test fit each side of the tool onto the rear screw-in type brake piston until you find the side that has the best grip on the piston's grooves (often four small nubs or pegs). Attach the disc brake piston tool to an extension bar and your ratcheting wrench.
3. Retract the Piston: Very slowly turn the brake piston in the clockwise direction. As you turn, the piston will screw backwards into the caliper body. Periodically check the brake fluid level in the reservoir to ensure it doesn't overflow. If it gets too high, you may need to siphon some fluid out (dispose of properly).
4. Align and Flush: Continue turning the piston until it is flush with the rubber dust boot. It's vital to line up the caliper piston in the same "+" orientation it was in before you started. This alignment is necessary for the piston to properly seat against the metal nubs or pegs on the rear of the new brake pads. If the piston begins to bind on the rubber dust boot, turn it back the opposite way a little, and then slowly try again, ensuring it's not twisting the boot.

Installing Your New Brake Pads

With the piston retracted and components cleaned, it's time to install the new pads.

1. Install Anti-Rattle Clips (If Applicable): If your set of new rear brake pads came with new metal anti-rattle clips, remove the old ones from the caliper bracket and install the new clips in their place. These clips help hold the pads securely and prevent noise.
2. Insert New Brake Pads: Carefully insert the new rear brake pads into the caliper bracket. Ensure the wear indicator or "squeal" bar (a small metal tab designed to make noise when pads are low) is oriented in the same position as it was on the old pads. This typically means the wear indicator will be on the inner pad, positioned towards the top.
3. Reinstall Caliper: Gently lower the rear caliper over the new brake pads and down onto the rotor. Carefully align the hole in the caliper with the slider pin in the bracket. Thread in the caliper bolts by hand first to ensure they are not cross-threaded.
4. Tighten Caliper Bolts: Using your 14mm socket and ratcheting wrench, tighten both the upper and lower caliper bolts. The torque specification for the 14mm rear caliper bolts is 19 lb-ft. Turn them in the counter-clockwise direction (as seen from the outside of the vehicle) to tighten. Double-check that both caliper bolts are securely tightened to the specified torque.

Torque Specifications Summary

Accurate torque is critical for safety and proper component function. Here are the key torque specifications for this job:

Final Assembly and Crucial Checks

You're almost done! A few final steps will complete the job and ensure everything is working correctly.

1. Address Brake Fluid Reservoir: Replace the brake fluid reservoir cap in the engine bay by twisting it clockwise until secure.
2. Bleed Brake Lines (If Necessary): If your brake pedal previously felt mushy or spongy, it could indicate that the brake fluid is contaminated with water, or the brake lines contain air bubbles. At this point, it would be highly beneficial to bleed the brake lines to flush out old fluid and replace it with new DOT3 brake fluid. This process ensures a firm pedal feel.
3. Reinstall the Wheel: Carefully place the rear wheel back onto the wheel studs. Spin on the five lug nuts by hand first. This helps prevent cross-threading, which can damage the studs.
4. Initial Lug Nut Tightening: With the lug nuts hand-tight, use your tyre iron to tighten them a bit more in a star pattern (clockwise direction). This ensures the wheel is snug against the hub.
5. Lower the Vehicle: Slowly lower the vehicle with your floor jack until the rear wheel just holds some weight, but the full weight of the vehicle is not yet on the wheel.
6. Final Lug Nut Torque: At this point, you would typically tighten the lug nuts to their final specified torque. Please note: The specific lug nut torque specification for the 2010 Ford Fusion is not provided within the scope of the information given for this article. It is crucial to consult your vehicle's owner's manual or a reliable Ford Fusion service manual for the precise torque setting. Overtightening or undertightening lug nuts can lead to serious safety issues. Once you have the correct specification, tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to ensure even pressure.
7. Fully Lower Vehicle: Once all lug nuts are torqued, fully lower the vehicle to the ground and remove the jack stands and floor jack.
8. Pump the Brake Pedal: Before driving, get into the vehicle and slowly pump the brake pedal several times until it feels firm. This pushes the caliper piston out against the new pads and establishes proper brake pressure. Do not drive until the pedal feels firm!
9. Bedding In New Pads: For optimal performance and longevity, new brake pads should be "bedded in." This typically involves several moderate stops from about 40-50 mph down to 10 mph, allowing the brakes to cool slightly between stops, followed by a few harder stops. Consult your brake pad manufacturer's instructions for their specific bedding-in procedure.

Troubleshooting Common Brake Issues

Even after a successful pad replacement, you might encounter some common issues. Knowing how to address them can save you worry.

• Mushy or Spongy Brake Pedal: This is almost always an indication of air in the brake lines or contaminated brake fluid. A thorough brake fluid flush and bleeding of the brake lines (starting with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and working closer) should resolve this.
• Brake Squeal or Noise: If you hear squealing after installation, it could be due to improper bedding in, lack of anti-squeal compound, or misaligned pads. Ensure the anti-rattle clips are correctly installed and consider applying brake quiet gel to the back of the pads if you haven't already. Sometimes, new pads can squeal briefly until they are fully bedded in.
• Pulsating or Shuddering During Braking: This usually points to warped or unevenly worn brake rotors. If you didn't resurface or replace your rotors during the pad job, and you experience this, it's likely time to address the rotors.
• Brakes Dragging or Sticking: If a wheel feels hot or the vehicle pulls to one side after driving, a caliper might be sticking. This often relates to corroded or unlubricated caliper slider pins, or a faulty caliper piston. Re-inspect and lubricate the pins; if the issue persists, the caliper may need replacement.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

How often should I replace my rear brake pads?

Brake pad life varies greatly depending on driving habits, vehicle type, and pad material. Generally, rear pads might last 50,000 to 70,000 miles, sometimes longer, as they typically wear slower than front pads. It's best to inspect them regularly during tyre rotations or other maintenance.

Can I replace only the pads without touching the rotors?

Yes, if your rotors are in excellent condition (no deep grooves, warping, or significant scoring) and it's the first time replacing pads on those rotors, you can often get away with just replacing the pads. However, for best practice and long-term performance, it's often recommended to at least resurface (turn) or replace rotors when changing pads.

What is the purpose of the "+" orientation of the brake piston?

The "+" or sometimes "X" pattern on the rear brake piston is designed to align with corresponding nubs or pegs on the backing plate of the brake pad. This ensures the pad sits correctly and evenly against the piston, preventing rotation and promoting even wear and proper braking.

Do I need to bleed the brakes after replacing just the pads?

Typically, if you only replace the pads and don't open the brake lines, bleeding isn't strictly necessary. However, if your brake pedal felt spongy before, or if you accidentally introduced air into the system (e.g., by letting the fluid reservoir run low), then bleeding is highly recommended to restore a firm pedal.

What kind of brake fluid should I use for my Ford Fusion?

The Ford Fusion (2006-2012) typically uses DOT3 brake fluid. Always check your owner's manual or the cap of your brake fluid reservoir to confirm the correct type before adding or replacing fluid.

Replacing your Ford Fusion's rear brake pads is a rewarding DIY project that can save you money and provide peace of mind regarding your vehicle's safety. By following these detailed steps, paying close attention to torque specifications, and prioritising safety, you can ensure your braking system is in optimal condition, providing reliable stopping power for many miles to come. Regular maintenance of your braking system is a cornerstone of responsible vehicle ownership.

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