Ford FE Engine Assembly Guide

Preparing the Ford FE Engine Block for Assembly

Embarking on a Ford FE engine build requires meticulous attention to detail, even for those with a foundational understanding of engine assembly. This guide zeroes in on the unique aspects of the FE, offering procedures to enhance performance and ensure a robust build. We'll navigate the assembly process chronologically, revisiting crucial concepts as they pertain to the overall build.

Finishing Block Preparation

Once your chosen block has undergone all necessary machining and is securely mounted on an engine stand, it's time for the final preparation. Ensure all grinding and oiling modifications are complete. A critical final step is to meticulously inspect every threaded opening and oil passage. Discovering a missed drilling or cutting requirement at this stage can be incredibly frustrating, necessitating a partial disassembly.

For thorough cleaning, a multi-stage approach is recommended. Begin with hot water and a potent detergent. Employ rifle brushes and household scrubbing brushes to vigorously clean all surfaces, followed by a rinse with a hot water stream from a garden hose. Mounting a cylinder-cleaning brush into a cordless drill is an effective method for cleaning the cylinder walls. Certain stubborn debris may resist soapy water but will readily yield to brake cleaner. WD-40 can then remove residual machining oils and embedded grime. It’s often surprising how much debris remains even after initial cleaning. Once satisfied with the cleanliness, use a rubber-tipped air-blow gun to thoroughly dry the block, paying special attention to all threaded holes and oil galleries. The final step involves wiping down all machined surfaces with WD-40. A truly clean machined surface will begin to rust almost immediately if not protected.

Conduct a final check for any missing galley plugs. The plug located behind the distributor is easily overlooked, as are the small plugs on the oil-pan rail of original side oiler blocks. Also, be vigilant for the 1/8-inch NPT plug near the oil filter mount on some truck and service blocks, which was intended for an accessory compressor oil-return line provision.

Camshaft Installation: The First Critical Step

The initial components to be installed in a freshly machined block are the camshaft bearings. While custom tools can be fabricated, a standard hammer and expanded mandrel installer, used correctly, will suffice. Installing the front camshaft bearing from the rear of the block, utilising an alignment cone, offers a better chance of achieving a perfectly straight installation.

For conventional top/centre-oiling FE engines, the precise alignment of the oil-feed hole in the centre three camshaft bearings is less critical due to the annular grooves present in the block. Most builders opt for the 3 o’clock position. The front and rear bearings only have one correct orientation to align their respective feed holes. In side oiler configurations, the cylinder deck oil feeds must align with the holes in the camshaft bearings. To verify this, darken the build room and use a small LED flashlight to look directly through the intended oil passage.

After the camshaft bearings are in place, it’s advisable to test-fit a known straight and dimensionally correct camshaft. Bearing deformation during installation is the primary cause of binding and tight spots. A careful application of a knife and a Scotchbrite pad can often rectify these issues. It’s also worth noting that new camshafts can sometimes be bent, or their journals may be on the higher end of the diameter specifications. A useful trick is to modify an old camshaft into a bearing cutter by machining a flat onto each journal, leaving the corners sharp, which can be invaluable for troublesome blocks.

Install the engine’s primary camshaft using oil on the journals. Performing this installation at this stage allows for a gentler approach to the bearings, minimising any potential damage from cam lobes. It also permits the installation of the cam lobes without lubricant, reducing mess. A touch of lubricant on the camshaft’s front face will facilitate the installation of the thrust plate. Mount a magnetic dial indicator to check the camshaft-thrust clearance; this is a straightforward task with no other components obstructing access. The camshaft should rotate smoothly by hand when using the timing sprocket as a handle. Apply the appropriate lubricant to the cam lobes before proceeding to the next assembly stage: the crankshaft.

Main Bearings, Rear Seal, and Crankshaft Installation

When checking bearing clearances, a dial bore gauge is preferred over Plastigage for performance applications, as it offers superior precision and reliability. Install your chosen main bearings into the block, ensuring the rear seal is not yet in place. Install and torque the main bearing caps according to the specified torque values, using the appropriate lubricant. For 427 engines, install the cross bolts; these are known to make a discernible difference.

To measure the chosen crankshaft journal, use a micrometer. Lock the micrometer at the measured position and lightly clamp it into a vise (using aluminium jaws), with the open end facing upwards. The dial bore gauge can then be fitted into the mounted micrometer and adjusted to read zero as you sweep it across the micrometer’s measuring faces. Now, slip the dial bore gauge into the corresponding main bearing bore. This will directly indicate the clearance as the difference between the bearing’s inner diameter and the crankshaft journal’s diameter. For iron-block engines, the target range for main bearing clearance is .0028 inches, with anything between .0025 and .0030 inches considered acceptable. Aluminium blocks require a tighter target of approximately .0020 inches, as they tend to expand with heat.

If you encounter improper clearance, disassemble and meticulously inspect the suspect bearing and cap before making assumptions. Even the smallest particle of debris trapped beneath the cap’s bolt face or within the bearing shell can significantly impact the measurement.

Clearance adjustments can be made either by carefully grinding the crankshaft or by utilising selective-size bearings. Both methods are perfectly acceptable and yield good results. However, the preference leans towards selective-size bearings, as altering the crankshaft can complicate future servicing. Selective-size bearings can be used as complete sets or as half-shells, mixing and matching to achieve the desired clearance.

No manufacturer typically supplies .001-inch oversize or undersize bearings for the FE. Fortunately, selective-size bearings for the 351 Cleveland engines can be adapted with minor modifications. The only difference lies in the small locating tang, which is positioned incorrectly for an FE. This tang can either be removed (as it serves only as an assembly aid and does not prevent the bearing from spinning) or an additional tang slot can be carefully added to the block and/or main cap using a small file or a cutoff wheel.

With the vertical bearing clearances measured and corrected, you can proceed to the thrust measurement. Remove all main caps, lubricate the bearings, and install the block half of the rear main seal. Apply a very thin film of Motorcraft TA-31 silicone to the seal where it contacts the block, and offset the seal edges relative to the cap face by .100 inch. Carefully lay the crankshaft into place and install the main caps, excluding the rear one. If your engine is equipped with cross bolts, install them at this stage. You may need a flashlight and a plastic mallet to correctly position the caps. The cross bolts should thread in smoothly; they should not require excessive force and should be able to be started with your fingertips. Torque the vertical fasteners on main caps 1, 2, and 4 to specification, leaving the thrust cap fasteners and cross bolts finger tight. Set up a magnetic dial indicator and measure the thrust clearance. A large screwdriver can be used to wedge the crankshaft backward and forward in the block several times, with the final motion being forward. If the clearance is sufficient (between .008 and .012 inch), torque the vertical fasteners on the thrust cap and recheck before proceeding. Insufficient clearance necessitates removing the crankshaft and making necessary adjustments.

Some aftermarket blocks feature a machined chamfer where the thrust surface meets the crankshaft journal area that is smaller than stock. This can interfere with certain bearings, leading to inadequate thrust clearance as the bearing becomes spread and deformed during installation. If this is the case, the problem can be resolved by carefully enlarging the chamfer with a sharp file. On some blocks, the outside diameter or the machined thrust area may be too small. If interference is detected during assembly, it is often best to reduce the bearing thrust diameter on a lathe, though block modification is also an option. If minor thinning of the thrust bearing is required, it can be carefully sanded with 600-grit sandpaper and WD-40 on a flat surface like glass or granite. Aim to remove material only from the non-loaded front face.

Before installing the rear main cap, perform a couple of checks. If using main studs, ensure they do not protrude beyond the oil pan gasket surface, as this can interfere with the windage tray or the oil pan itself. Also, conduct a quick inspection to confirm that the drain holes in the rear main cap seal correctly and are not obstructed by the pan gasket or windage tray.

For rear main cap assembly, Motorcraft TA-31 grey silicone is recommended. Apply a small amount in each corner and a very thin layer on the flat areas between the seal groove and the pan rail. Avoid applying silicone near the bearing end of the cap. The FE engine uses vertical side seals that fit into grooves in the main cap. Small nails are tapped between the cap and each side seal to press these seals against the block. The same RTV silicone used for assembly lube can be used for both the side seals and the nails. Install the bearing and the rear main seal. Gently slide the lubricated side seals into their grooves and carefully manoeuvre the entire assembly into position by hand. It should seat far enough to allow the fasteners to act as guides. Use a plastic mallet to tap the cap into place, alternating with light taps on the side seals to encourage them to slide towards the block. Lubricate the nails and use a small hammer to tap them flush with the pan rail. Torque the vertical main fasteners to specification. When assembled correctly, the nails should be flush with or slightly below the pan rail, and the side seals should be either a tiny amount above or below it. A razor blade or a small amount of silicone can be used to level the pan gasket surface. A small amount of silicone visible at the cap-to-block interface at the rear of the engine is a good indicator of a complete seal.

For the cross bolts, the common ARP lube is recommended for the threads, along with a small amount of RTV on the washers and bolt undersides to prevent oil seepage. Torque these to 45 foot-pounds, working from the centre cap outwards, alternating sides.

At this juncture, the crankshaft should rotate smoothly by hand without any stiff spots or dragging. If a wrench is required to turn the crankshaft, there is an issue that needs to be addressed.

Pistons, Rings, and Rods Assembly

It is recommended to assemble all pistons, rings, and connecting rods as complete units before installing them into the engine. These procedures are generally consistent with building any other engine, with no particularly unique or FE-specific steps involved, beyond adhering to good workshop practices. The assumption is that all components have been thoroughly cleaned and inspected beforehand. FE engines are relatively forgiving regarding piston-to-valve and piston-to-cylinder-head clearances. However, these clearances must still be checked, and it may be necessary to repeat the piston installation process.

Most, if not all, connecting rod manufacturers advise tightening the rod bolts to their specified torque or stretch value and then loosening them several times before final assembly. This cycling process helps to burnish the threads and their respective contact surfaces, leading to more consistent tension and load absorption. Connecting rod manufacturers typically recommend one of three methods for proper rod bolt installation: torque, torque angle, or stretch.

Torquing to a "foot-pounds" specification is the least accurate installation method, yet millions of engines have been successfully built using only a basic torque wrench. Since torque wrenches measure friction, using a defined lubricant and the aforementioned fastener cycling are crucial for a successful outcome.

Torque angle is a technique used to achieve a stretch specification with relatively simple tools. It can be particularly beneficial in areas with tight clearances or where a stretch gauge cannot be employed. The fastener is initially tightened to a moderate torque value, and then further tightened by an additional number of degrees. An example specification might be 35 ft-lbs followed by 45 degrees of additional rotation.

The initial step in the actual assembly process involves measuring bearing clearances. Similar to the procedure for the main bearings, the crankshaft is measured with a micrometer, which is then used to set a dial bore gauge to zero. Assemble each connecting rod bearing into its respective connecting rod, torque the rod cap into place, and use the dial bore gauge to obtain the reading. A target clearance range of .0025 to .0030 inches is generally recommended. For factory FE rod journals, there are no readily available selective bearings, meaning that crankshaft or connecting rod machining is the only option if adjustments are necessary. Many stroker combinations utilise 2.200-inch big-block Chevy-sized journals, for which numerous clearance-adjusting options are available. It is also important to test-fit the piston pin in the connecting rod. Clearances here are among the tightest in the engine, typically ranging from .0008 to .0010 inches, and should have been set by the machine shop. The fit should be glass-smooth with no hint of tightness.

Piston preparation involves careful inspection and some detailing. The oil return holes located in the root of the oil ring groove are a common area for burrs and chips, which must be removed. It is also beneficial to smooth any sharp edges around the valve reliefs and at the lower edge of the piston skirt. Clean and lubricate the piston pin, and test-fit it in the pin hole. The pin should slide in and rotate freely without any drag. Piston skirt clearances should have been set by the machine shop, but can be verified using the same micrometer and dial bore gauge technique employed for bearing clearances. Be aware that the use of a torque plate during machining can alter the actual measured clearance, but the results should be reasonably close.

Most pistons utilise either a single or double spiral-lock retainer. It is often easiest to install the locks on one side first before inserting the pin. Installing the spiral locks involves slightly spreading them and carefully winding them into their respective grooves. On an FE engine, pistons are installed with the valve relief pockets facing the intake manifold side of each cylinder bank. Connecting rods have a larger chamfer on one side of the big-end bore and a smaller chamfer on the other. The larger chamfer should always face the crankshaft counterweight, and the smaller chamfer should face the adjacent connecting rod.

Hold a piston in one hand, slide the pin partway in, and then position the connecting rod. Slide the pin the rest of the way in and install the opposing spiral lock. The piston rings are installed next, starting with the oil expander, followed by the oil ring rails. The second ring is then installed using a ring expander tool, and finally, the top ring is installed. Avoid twisting the two upper rings into place, as over-expansion can deform the rings, leading to compromised ring seal and reduced ring life. While there are various theories regarding gap placement, the most critical aspect is to avoid aligning the gaps; the rings do rotate slowly when the engine is running.

Although many individuals and companies advocate for a variety of special lubricants and powders for pre-lubrication and break-in, plain, non-synthetic engine oil is often sufficient. Oil serves as the primary lubricant from the moment the engine fires up until it is taken out of service. Any specialised additives are typically washed away during pre-lubrication or dissipate immediately upon ignition. Cylinders should receive a small amount of oil massaged into the surface. Bearings should have a few drops wiped onto them, along with a thin film on the crankshaft journal. A small amount of oil can be applied to the piston skirts and a thin film to the rings. It is crucial not to assemble any component dry, but avoid having the piston excessively wet.

Utilise a tapered ring compressor; if one is not available, it is advisable to purchase one. Older clamp-style compressors certainly function, but once you experience the ease of installing pistons with a tapered design, you will likely discard your old compressor without hesitation. Install one piston/rod assembly at a time. Tighten the fasteners to the specified torque and rotate the engine to check for smoothness. Installing pistons one cylinder at a time can help isolate any potential issues that may arise. As piston pairs are assembled onto each journal, you can check the rod side clearance. This clearance should typically be between .016 and .020 inches for an average FE build, although it is more forgiving than other clearances in the engine, functioning acceptably at .012 inches and .025 inches.

Bring each piston to the top of its stroke and check the deck clearance. This step verifies the work performed by your machinist. The preference is for zero deck height or a clearance no greater than .005 inches below deck. However, any clearance between .003 inches positive and .010 inches below deck will function correctly. All pistons should exhibit very similar deck clearances; differences of only a few thousandths of an inch are generally inconsequential. Leave the engine with the number-1 piston at top dead centre.

Timing Chain, Cam Degreeing, and Front Cover Installation

With the camshaft and crankshaft installed in the block, the next step involves fitting the timing set. For the majority of FE projects, a basic Cloyes timing set is relatively intuitive. (Component selection was covered in Chapter 6.)

The crankshaft sprocket should be a light push/press fit onto the shaft. The camshaft and crankshaft sprockets are aligned "dot to dot" for initial setup. With both the camshaft and crankshaft positioned at their respective "number-1, top dead centre" positions and the crankshaft key installed, place the crankshaft sprocket onto the shaft and slide it back to within approximately 1 inch of its final position. Take the camshaft sprocket, loop the timing chain over it, and then hook them over the crankshaft sprocket. You should be able to use the camshaft dowel pin as a guide to push and tap the entire assembly into its final position, working alternately from top to bottom. A plastic mallet and a piece of aluminium tubing placed over the crankshaft snout can be very helpful. This process should require only a light touch, not forceful hammering. Temporarily install the camshaft bolt and washer.

At this stage, it is crucial to degree the camshaft. Install the degree wheel onto the crankshaft snout and fashion a pointer from a piece of welding rod to indicate TDC. Install the appropriate lifter in the number-1 intake position. A magnetic-mounted dial indicator is used to measure the lifter's movement.

Due to the asymmetrical nature of camshaft lobes, you cannot simply assume that the point of maximum lift corresponds to the lobe's centerline. To accurately determine the intake lobe's centerline, you need to identify the point 0.050 inches below maximum lift on both sides of the lobe's peak and then calculate the midpoint between these two points on the degree wheel.

Experience often dictates whether an engine performs optimally with a particular camshaft installed at a specific degree position. In the absence of direct experience, it is generally best to initially follow the cam grinder's recommendations. Once satisfied with the installed intake centerline, continue rotating the engine and check the intake and exhaust opening events against the specifications provided on the cam card. Cloyes timing sets allow for adjustments in 4-degree increments. Based on dyno testing, changes of only 1 or 2 degrees typically have a minimal impact on performance and are not a primary concern during the initial testing of a cam combination. If all checks out, remove the degreeing hardware.

Next, install the camshaft bolt, washer, and fuel pump eccentric. Apply red Loctite and torque to the specified value for a secure fit.

The front seal should be installed into the timing cover and lubricated. Apply a thin layer of timing cover gasket adhesive to hold the gasket in place. Slide the sheet metal oil slinger onto the crankshaft snout. Position the timing cover, using the crankshaft damper spacer as a centering guide. Many of the timing cover bolts thread into either water or oil passages, so applying Teflon paste to the threads before installation is recommended to inhibit corrosion and ensure a proper seal. With the timing cover bolted on and the damper spacer slid into place, you can install the crankshaft damper itself. Check the fit by measuring its inside diameter and comparing it to the crankshaft snout. It needs to be a press fit, but not excessively tight. Each damper manufacturer will have specific installation recommendations, and honing may be required. The damper key is typically made of 1/4-inch square stock and must be installed after the damper spacer. The damper installation can usually be started with a large dead-blow plastic mallet, but a press or a threaded bolt is necessary to complete the installation. Using a threaded stud, a bearing washer, and a nut is the correct method for this. Given that the FE damper bolt is both large in diameter and long, many have been installed using the bolt itself to draw the damper into place. It is rare to encounter a stripped or broken FE damper bolt. Ensure you use the correct thick washer and torque the large bolt to specification to prevent it from coming loose.

Cylinder Head Assembly

Cylinder heads are often assembled before the block is fully completed. Springs and retainers are selected based on the requirements of the camshaft and the intended application. It is advisable to achieve installed heights within approximately .050 inches of coil bind. For solid-roller camshaft applications, stiffer valve springs generally present fewer issues than those that are too weak, particularly concerning seat pressure.

On an FE engine, it is important to ensure that the valve tip heights are relatively consistent with respect to both the cylinder head's deck surface and the rocker arm mounting points. Significant variations in tip height necessitate the use of varying pushrod lengths and can lead to potentially problematic geometry issues. Furthermore, they require a wide assortment of shims to equalise installed heights for the valve springs. While this may be acceptable for utility vehicles, it is generally not desirable for performance applications.

Factory FE cylinder heads used umbrella-type valve seals, but modern builds typically utilise positive Viton seals that press onto the valve guide boss. It is necessary to establish the correct installed height and position the required shims and the spring locator before installing the seal. Install the valves using oil as a lubricant. In a commercial workshop, air-powered spring compressors are commonly used, but the Mondello "big purple C-clamp" is remarkably effective for low-volume and home use. Available from sources like Goodson or Mondello, this clamp is simple, portable, and safe—considerably safer than older over-centre hand-lever compressors.

Cylinder Head Installation

Clean the decks of the engine block using thinner or brake cleaner. Install the cylinder head locating dowels by tapping them gently into place with a small hammer. Starting with the split sides of the dowels first, at a slight angle, can make this process easier. If using head studs, install them at this stage with a touch of ARP lubricant, lightly seating them in the block.

On engines equipped with domed pistons, paint the tops of a couple of pistons with a magic marker or machinist’s dye and mount the cylinder heads without gaskets. Rotate the engine through a couple of cycles. It should turn smoothly without any interference. If it clicks or binds, the points of interference will be clearly visible as witness marks or scrapes in the marker or dye. Modify the heads and pistons as necessary and repeat the test. Smooth, interference-free rotation indicates that you have at least .041 inches (equivalent to the thickness of a gasket) of clearance.

Next, check for adequate piston-to-valve clearance. Install the head gaskets with the coolant openings facing forward on both decks. While there is no definitive "up" or "down," there is a clear "front" and "rear" orientation. Using modelling clay is a preferred method for this check, as it allows for the assessment of both vertical and radial clearance in a single test. First, apply silicone spray lubricant to the piston dome and the combustion chamber to prevent the clay from sticking. Then, pack both valve reliefs with clay and install the cylinder head using a couple of head fasteners. The lifters, some reasonably close-fitting pushrods, and the rocker arms for the test cylinder should also be installed. While precise torque and valve adjustment are not critical for this test, they should be reasonably accurate for reliable results.

Rotate the engine through two complete revolutions. The clay will offer some resistance, but you should not need to force it. If you encounter a hard stop, disassemble the components to identify the cause. Remove all the valvetrain components and the cylinder head. The clay should clearly show an impression from each valve. Use an X-acto knife to carefully cut clean, pie-shaped sections from the clay. This allows for the measurement of both vertical and radial clearance around each valve. The standard recommended clearances are .050 inches radially and approximately .100 inches vertically. With the exception of maximum-effort racing applications, FE engines rarely experience vertical clearance issues, but radial clearance can be a concern with certain pistons. If insufficient clearance is found, the pistons will need to be removed for machining.

If all clearances are satisfactory and everything appears correct, the cylinder heads can be permanently bolted down. If you are using a Genesis block, ensure that the oil feed hole to the heads aligns correctly with the opening in the head gasket. It is often necessary to drill an additional oil hole in the gasket. Apply lubricant to all threads, as well as to the underside of the head bolt washers and the nuts or bolt heads. Follow the factory torque pattern, which typically involves a spiral motion starting from the centre and working outwards. The torque values should be consistent with those used during torque-plate honing. Apply a light torque value to seat the head, then follow the pattern, progressing to the full torque specification in a single, continuous sweep. Allow the engine to sit for an hour, then perform a cold re-torque. This allows the head gasket and fasteners to settle and take an initial set. Loosen each fastener and re-torque it again in a full sweep. Marking the fasteners will reveal that this process can yield an additional few degrees of rotation for a given torque value.

Lifters and Pushrod Length Check

Install the lifters after following the manufacturer’s specified cleaning and lubrication procedures. For flat tappets, this involves using a high-pressure lubricant on the contact face and oil on the sides. Roller lifters have varying procedures depending on the manufacturer. Some recommend a thorough wash followed by an oil bath, while others utilise a specific assembly grease that should not be washed away.

With the lifters installed, position the camshaft on its base circle (the point of lowest lift). Install the rocker arm assembly onto one cylinder head. Adjust the rocker arm adjuster so that only two or three threads are visible below the rocker arm body. Use a traditional ball/ball-style pushrod length checker and extend it, taking up all of the lash in the valvetrain by making contact with the ball end of the adjuster. Unbolt the rocker arm assembly, remove the checking pushrod, and measure it using a 12-inch dial caliper. When contacting your chosen pushrod supplier, specify the length as "bottom of cup," and they will understand the requirement precisely. Traditional FE engines use a 3/8-inch cup at the rocker arm end, which differs from other engine designs. Be sure to specify this when ordering.

While every engine combination is unique, common pushrod lengths typically range between 8.900 and 9.100 inches for roller camshafts, and between 9.100 and 9.350 inches for flat tappet camshafts. If your measurements yield significantly different lengths, it is advisable to recheck your measurements.

Intake Manifold Installation

In Chapter 10, the detailed process for verifying and correcting intake manifold fit on an FE was outlined. Now, it's time for the permanent installation. Apply a very thin layer (more akin to a translucent coat of paint than a bead) of TA-31 RTV silicone around all water openings and intake ports. Install the gasket, which should have been trimmed to match the ports during the fitting process. Apply another very thin layer of silicone over the gasket and a substantial bead in the front and rear sealing areas on the block. Carefully position the intake manifold, using the distributor as a locating dowel. A plastic mallet can be used to adjust the manifold as needed for fastener and port alignment. Install all fasteners, ensuring they are started by hand. If you are using a fuel log on a 2x4 setup, do not forget to install it at this stage. While a factory torque value exists for intake bolts, it is rarely practical to use. In reality, many aftermarket intake fasteners are difficult to access, even with a box-end wrench. Working from the inside out towards the ends, snugly tightening the fasteners by hand is generally sufficient. Sighting down alongside the ports with a flashlight will reveal the slightest amount of silicone squeezed out, indicating a good seal. Remove the distributor and ensure that the silicone in the front wall has not obstructed the opening. After several hours, a razor blade can be used to trim the excess silicone from the front and rear sealing areas for a more professional finish.

Valvetrain Assembly

The rocker arm assembly on an FE is distinctive, even in its installation. Studs are highly preferred for mounting the rocker assemblies, as they are gentler on the cylinder head threads and simplify installation. If you opt for bolts, ensure you use the correct length for each position. Bolts that are too long can bottom out, providing a false torque reading and potentially stripping the threads from the head during operation. On Edelbrock heads, using the incorrect length stock bolts can cause them to break through the top of the port.

The initial assembly step involves lubricating the ends of the pushrods. Carefully slide each pushrod through the hole in the intake manifold and centre it in the lifter. Using a flashlight will help ensure they are correctly positioned, as it is easy to miss. Set all rocker arm adjusters so that two or three threads are visible below the rocker arm body. If you are using the factory tin drain trays, place them in position. Then, position the rocker arm assembly by aligning the pushrod cups with the adjuster screws. This can be a juggling act to keep all the pushrods in place while starting the fasteners. Tighten the fasteners gradually, alternating between them to prevent bending the shaft. Proceed slowly and continue to monitor the pushrod positions as you tighten them. Once all fasteners are snug and the rocker arm stands are visibly in contact with the cylinder head, they can be torqued to specification.

After both rocker arm assemblies have been installed, rotate the engine. Listen, look, and feel for any interference. The engine will be slightly harder to turn but should still rotate smoothly and quietly. Any clicks, snaps, or tight spots require investigation and correction.

Valve lash for solid lifters (or preload for hydraulic lifters) can now be set. Most solid lifters specify a hot lash setting. Since the engine is cold, an initial approximate setting is necessary. For iron block and head combinations, there is approximately .004 inches of lash growth from cold to hot. For engines using iron blocks and aluminium heads, the growth is around .009 inches. An aluminium block and heads will experience approximately .016 inches of lash growth as they warm up, often requiring nearly zero cold lash. The same growth factor applies to hydraulic lifter preload. Therefore, if the camshaft manufacturer specifies .020 inches of hot preload, you need to provide a greater amount when the engine is cold. With some performance hydraulic systems operating near zero lash, insufficient cold preload can result in a noisy valvetrain when the engine reaches operating temperature.

Oil Pump, Windage Tray, and Oil Pan

When installing the oiling hardware, the first step is to test-fit the oil pump driveshaft into the distributor. Instances have been encountered where they do not fit due to burrs or damage. It is far easier to check and rectify this before the oil pan is installed. If you are using a windage tray, test-fit it next. Apply gasket adhesive to it and bolt it to the block using only a couple of fasteners. Rotate the crankshaft to check for clearance. Try fitting the dipstick; sometimes they interfere and may require some trimming. If all is satisfactory, remove the tray and apply a small amount of silicone sealant at the points where the timing cover and rear main cap meet the block. A very thin smear along the sides is all that is required, then remount it using only a few bolts on each side.

Next, slide the driveshaft into the oil pump with the retainer clip positioned towards the upper end. Install the oil pump gasket, and apply a dab of red Loctite to the two 3/8-inch bolts before snugging the pump onto the block. While most builds will utilise common automotive bolts, studs and safety-wired nuts have been employed in road-racing applications. A very thin layer of silicone is applied to the oil pump inlet gasket to prevent any possibility of air intrusion. The oil pump pickup is mounted using two 5/16-inch fasteners that are secured with either Loctite or safety wire as a precaution against loosening. Some oil pump pickups may require modification to clear the windage tray; a test fit is a prudent step before final installation.

Now, check the oil pan-to-pickup clearance. Instead of using clay, a straightedge (or ruler) and a 12-inch dial caliper are recommended. Clamp the straightedge to the bottom of the oil pump pickup screen. Measure the distance from the straightedge to the windage tray's pan rail surface. Lay the straightedge across the gasket rail on the oil pan, with a gasket in place. Use the dial caliper to measure from the edge to the bottom of the oil pan's sump. Subtract the first measurement from the second to determine the clearance. A clearance of approximately 3/8 to 1/2 inch is generally considered appropriate.

Thoroughly wash the oil pan before installation. This is an opportune time to fill it with mineral spirits and check for any leaks. If all appears satisfactory, you are ready to mount the pan to the block. Fit a gasket and hold the pan in place just below the windage tray. Remove the fasteners holding the tray (having an assistant can be helpful) and position the pan against the block, capturing the tray. The sealant applied earlier will prevent the tray from dislodging during this process. The pan is secured by 20 bolts, and it is important to start all of them before tightening any. Once all bolts are in place, work around the pan, gradually snugging them. With the sandwich of two gaskets and a tray, overtightening should be avoided to prevent deforming the pan rail.

Bolt the oil filter mount to the side of the block, fill the oil filter with oil, and install an inexpensive pressure gauge into the 1/4-inch NPT tapped pressure opening at the top of the mount. Pour 4 quarts of break-in oil into the pan through the distributor opening. Using a 1/4-inch deep socket and a long 1/4-inch drive extension in a drill, spin the oil pump counterclockwise. You should observe approximately 75 pounds of pressure on the gauge within about a minute. Oil should begin to flow through the rocker arms and shafts shortly thereafter. When oil is observed from all sixteen rocker arms, the system is functioning correctly.

If no oil pressure is registered, it is typically due to a missing oil galley plug. While spinning the pump, a missing plug behind the distributor will be evident as a stream of oil exiting the opening in the intake manifold. A missing plug behind the timing gear will manifest as a waterfall observed through the fuel pump opening on the side of the timing cover. These issues are known from practical experience.

Assuming all procedures have been carried out correctly, you can now install the valve covers. As an inspection and hot lash adjustment will be performed later, no sealant is applied at this stage.

Carburetor, Water Pump, Distributor, Wires, and Plugs

You are now in the final stages of assembly, installing the last group of external components. The distributor is dropped into place after locating the number-1 cylinder on the compression stroke. Lubricate the drive gear and the seal. A common starting point for initial timing is 20 degrees before TDC. Once the distributor is close to its final position, you will likely need to rotate the engine slightly to allow it to seat fully onto the oil pump shaft. The body where the clamp attaches should be nearly parallel to the intake manifold. If the side of the seal is visible, the distributor is likely not fully seated.

Spark plugs and wires are relatively straightforward. A few tips are worth mentioning: Apply a small amount of anti-seize lubricant to the spark plug threads when installing them into aluminium heads. Also, use a bit of dielectric grease on the spark plug wires, on the spark plug boots, and at the distributor cap connections. Route the wires away from linkages and heat sources, keep cylinders number 7 and 8 separated, and ensure they are kept away from the distributor's magnetic trigger leads.

Carburetors are typically a simple bolt-down installation with a few considerations. Check for clearance throughout the throttle travel. Some carburetors may interfere with the intake manifold at the throttle plates. Others might contact the throttle linkage. Some may have a vacuum passage that overhangs the intake manifold’s mounting flange, leading to leaks. Carburetor spacers can often resolve these issues, but careful checking is essential. The factory throttle linkage on a 2x4 setup is designed for wide-open throttle operation, not for progressive opening of the two carburetors.

The assumption for this stage is that the engine will be placed on a dynamometer for testing and tuning. This requires only the basic front-end dress components. A mechanical water pump is a simple bolt-on item requiring four fasteners with Teflon paste, one bypass hose, and the installation is complete. The damper-mounted pulley, a water pump pulley, and a short belt will complete the test setup. Working with an electric water pump is even simpler, as the bypass opening on the intake manifold is plugged, and a belt is not required. For dynamometer testing, a water outlet is used, but a thermostat is not installed.

Step back and admire your work. You are now ready to fire up your newly assembled engine!

Max-Performance FE Engine Builds

As detailed, numerous combinations of cylinder heads, intake manifolds, blocks, and rotating assemblies can produce respectable and reliable power. At Survival Motorsports, a wide variety of FE engine combinations have been successfully built. On page 139 of the source material, two engine recipes are provided that offer a sound parts combination for a fast and robust max-performance FE Engine.

Written by Barry Rabotnik and Republished with Permission of CarTech Books

If you want to read more articles similar to Ford FE Engine Assembly Guide, you can visit the Mecanica category.