26/11/2003
A well-maintained braking system is paramount for road safety. Over time, brake fluid degrades, absorbing moisture and potentially introducing air into the lines. This can lead to a 'spongy' brake pedal, reduced stopping power, and a significant compromise to your vehicle's safety. Bleeding your brakes is the essential maintenance task that addresses these issues, ensuring your braking system remains efficient and reliable. For many DIY enthusiasts and professional mechanics alike, having the right tools makes all the difference. This is where companies like Epic Bleed Solutions come into play, offering products designed to simplify this vital automotive procedure.

While the user query mentioned 'Avid brakes', it's important to clarify that Avid is primarily a manufacturer of bicycle braking components. In the context of automotive maintenance, the principles of bleeding hydraulic brake systems are universal, but the specific tools and procedures will always be tailored to car or motorcycle systems, not bicycle ones. Our focus here will remain firmly on car brake bleeding, and how quality kits can assist.
- The Critical Role of Brake Fluid and Its Degradation
- Why Bleeding Your Brakes is Non-Negotiable
- Epic Bleed Solutions: A Closer Look at Their Offerings
- The General Procedure for Bleeding Car Brakes
- Common Issues and Troubleshooting During Brake Bleeding
- Maintenance Schedule for Brake Fluid
- Comparative Table: Two-Person Bleeding vs. Pressure/Vacuum Bleeding
- Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) About Brake Bleeding
- Conclusion
The Critical Role of Brake Fluid and Its Degradation
Brake fluid is the unsung hero of your vehicle's braking system. It transmits the force from your foot on the pedal to the brake calipers or wheel cylinders, engaging the brake pads against the discs or shoes against the drums. However, brake fluid isn't designed to last forever. Its primary enemy is moisture.
Why Moisture is a Problem for Brake Fluid
Most brake fluids, specifically DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5.1, are hygroscopic, meaning they naturally absorb moisture from the air. This absorption occurs through microscopic pores in brake hoses and seals, and even through the reservoir cap. Once moisture enters the system, several detrimental effects begin to occur:
- Reduced Boiling Point: Water has a much lower boiling point than brake fluid. During heavy braking, the friction generates significant heat, which transfers to the brake fluid. If the fluid contains water, this water can boil and turn into vapour. Vapour is compressible, unlike liquid, leading to a 'spongy' pedal feel and a dramatic loss of braking power – a phenomenon known as 'brake fade'. This is incredibly dangerous.
- Corrosion: Water in the brake system can cause internal corrosion of metal components, such as the master cylinder, brake lines, calipers, and ABS modulator. This corrosion can lead to leaks, blockages, and costly repairs.
- Contamination: Over time, tiny rubber particles from hoses and seals can break down and contaminate the fluid, forming sludge that can block narrow passages and impair valve operation within the ABS system or master cylinder.
Therefore, regular brake fluid replacement and bleeding are not just recommendations; they are crucial maintenance tasks for the safety and longevity of your braking system.
Why Bleeding Your Brakes is Non-Negotiable
Brake bleeding serves two primary purposes:
- Removing Air Pockets: Air can enter the brake system if the fluid level in the reservoir drops too low, during component replacement (e.g., calipers, master cylinder, brake lines), or if a leak develops. Because air is compressible, any air trapped in the lines will compress before the hydraulic fluid can exert pressure on the brakes, resulting in a soft or spongy pedal and reduced braking effectiveness. Bleeding forces this air out of the system.
- Replacing Old, Contaminated Fluid: As discussed, old brake fluid is compromised by moisture and contaminants. Bleeding pushes the old fluid out of the system, replacing it with fresh, clean fluid with its full complement of protective additives and high boiling point. This restores pedal feel, maximises stopping power, and protects internal components from corrosion.
You should consider bleeding your brakes if you notice any of the following signs:
- A spongy or soft brake pedal that goes closer to the floor than usual.
- Your vehicle pulls to one side when braking.
- You've recently replaced a brake component (caliper, master cylinder, brake line).
- Your brake fluid hasn't been changed in two years or more.
Epic Bleed Solutions: A Closer Look at Their Offerings
Based on customer feedback, Epic Bleed Solutions appear to be a reputable UK-based company providing specific kits for brake maintenance. The user's query included a positive review from 'Jim R.' which highlighted several key strengths:
"Received the kit in good time. All components and instructions were present. The kit was easy to use and the instructions were accurate. The price was also very competitive. Well done to Epic."
This feedback suggests that Epic Bleed Solutions excels in providing comprehensive kits that are user-friendly, well-documented, and competitively priced. For a DIY mechanic, having all necessary components and clear instructions is invaluable, as it reduces frustration and the likelihood of errors.
The exchange also touched upon a negative review concerning EU taxes and customs policies. It's important to separate external policy issues, which are beyond a company's control, from the quality of their products and services. The company's response correctly pointed out that these external factors do not reflect on their product's efficacy or their customer service. The absence of negative comments regarding their product or service, as stated by the company, further reinforces the positive impression gleaned from Jim R.'s review.

Therefore, to answer the question, "Are Epic Bleed Solutions any good?" – based on the available customer feedback and the company's own stance, they appear to be a solid choice for those seeking reliable and complete brake bleeding kits, particularly within the UK market.
The General Procedure for Bleeding Car Brakes
While specific steps may vary slightly depending on your vehicle and the type of bleeding kit you use (e.g., pressure bleeder, vacuum bleeder, or traditional two-person method), the core procedure remains consistent. Always refer to your vehicle's service manual and the instructions provided with your bleeding kit.
Safety First!
Before you begin any work on your vehicle's braking system, ensure safety is your top priority:
- Park your car on a level surface.
- Engage the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the wheels that will remain on the ground.
- Use sturdy jack stands to support the vehicle once lifted. Never rely solely on a jack.
- Wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE), including safety glasses and gloves. Brake fluid can damage paintwork and irritate skin.
Tools and Materials You'll Need:
- Your chosen brake bleeding kit (e.g., from Epic Bleed Solutions).
- New, correct type of brake fluid (check your owner's manual – DOT 3, DOT 4, or DOT 5.1).
- A set of open-ended wrenches (for the bleed nipples).
- A drain pan or container for old fluid.
- Plenty of clean rags.
- Optional: Turkey baster or syringe to remove old fluid from the reservoir.
Step-by-Step Bleeding Process:
- Prepare the Master Cylinder: Open the bonnet and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Clean the area around the cap to prevent dirt from entering. Remove the cap and, if necessary, use a clean turkey baster or syringe to remove as much old fluid as possible without letting the reservoir run dry. Refill the reservoir with new, clean brake fluid to the MAX line. Keep the fluid level topped up throughout the bleeding process.
- Identify Bleeding Order: For most vehicles, you'll bleed the wheel furthest from the master cylinder first, working your way closer. This typically means: Rear Passenger, Rear Driver, Front Passenger, Front Driver (for right-hand drive UK cars).
- Prepare the First Bleed Nipple: Locate the bleed nipple on the brake caliper or wheel cylinder. Clean it thoroughly with a wire brush to remove any dirt or rust. If it's stiff, apply some penetrating oil and let it soak.
- Attach Bleeding Hose: Fit one end of the clear plastic hose from your kit securely over the bleed nipple. Place the other end into a collection bottle, ensuring the end of the hose is submerged in a small amount of new brake fluid (this prevents air from being sucked back in).
- The Bleeding Action (Two-Person Method):
a. Have your assistant get into the car and be ready to press the brake pedal.
b. You (at the wheel) will instruct them to 'Press and hold'.
c. As they press, you will open the bleed nipple by about a quarter to half a turn. Old fluid and air bubbles will be pushed out into the collection bottle.
d. Before the pedal reaches the floor, instruct your assistant to 'Hold it there'.
e. Tightly close the bleed nipple.
f. Only after the nipple is closed, tell your assistant to 'Release the pedal'.
g. Wait a few seconds for the pedal to return to its normal position.
h. Repeat this process (Press and hold, open nipple, close nipple, release pedal) until you see clear, bubble-free fluid coming out of the hose. - Monitor Fluid Level: Crucially, regularly check the brake fluid reservoir level and top it up to the MAX line. NEVER let the reservoir run dry, as this will introduce air into the master cylinder, requiring a much more extensive bleeding procedure.
- Repeat for All Wheels: Once one wheel is clear, move to the next in the correct sequence.
- Final Checks: After bleeding all wheels, top up the master cylinder reservoir to the correct level and replace the cap securely. Pump the brake pedal several times to build pressure. The pedal should feel firm and consistent.
- Test Drive: Carefully test the brakes in a safe area at low speed before driving normally. Listen for any unusual noises and check for proper stopping power.
- Pressure Bleeders: These devices pressurise the brake fluid reservoir, forcing fluid and air out when the bleed nipple is opened. They are very efficient.
- Vacuum Bleeders: These devices attach to the bleed nipple and create a vacuum, sucking fluid and air out.
- Spongy Pedal After Bleeding: This is the most common sign that there's still air in the system. Go back and re-bleed all four wheels, paying extra attention to ensuring no air is sucked back in when closing the nipple. You might need to bleed the master cylinder itself if air got trapped there.
- Fluid Leaks: Check all connections and bleed nipples for tightness. Ensure the bleed hose was securely fitted to the nipple to prevent spray.
- Stripped or Snapped Bleed Nipple: This is a frustrating but not uncommon issue, especially on older vehicles. If stripped, you might be able to use a vise grip. If snapped, the caliper or wheel cylinder will likely need to be replaced, as extracting the broken part can be difficult.
- No Fluid Coming Out: Ensure the bleed nipple is open, the hose isn't kinked, and the master cylinder reservoir isn't empty. There might be a blockage in the line or a faulty master cylinder.
- Brake Fluid on Paintwork: Wipe it off immediately with a damp cloth and rinse the area thoroughly with water. Brake fluid is corrosive to paint.
Alternative Bleeding Methods (Often Facilitated by Kits)
Many modern bleeding kits, like those from Epic Bleed Solutions, often include components for single-person bleeding methods:
These methods can be quicker and cleaner than the traditional two-person method, making the job more accessible for a single individual.
Common Issues and Troubleshooting During Brake Bleeding
Even with the best kits, issues can arise. Here's how to address some common problems:
Maintenance Schedule for Brake Fluid
The general recommendation for brake fluid replacement is every two years or 24,000 miles, whichever comes first. However, this can vary based on your vehicle manufacturer's guidelines and your driving conditions. Heavy use, such as towing or driving in humid climates, might necessitate more frequent changes. Regular checks of your brake fluid level and colour can also give you an indication – dark, murky fluid is a clear sign it's time for a change.
Comparative Table: Two-Person Bleeding vs. Pressure/Vacuum Bleeding
| Feature | Two-Person Bleeding (Traditional) | Pressure/Vacuum Bleeding (Kit-Based) |
|---|---|---|
| Equipment Needed | Basic wrench, clear hose, collection bottle | Specialised pressure/vacuum bleeder kit, wrench, collection bottle |
| Personnel Required | Two people (one to pump pedal, one to open/close nipple) | One person (operates bleeder and nipple) |
| Ease of Use | Can be cumbersome, requires coordination | Generally simpler, more controlled fluid flow |
| Speed | Can be slower due to coordination and frequent trips to reservoir | Often faster and more efficient |
| Risk of Air Re-entry | Higher if nipple closed too late or pedal released too early | Lower, as system remains pressurised or under vacuum |
| Fluid Consumption | Potentially more if coordination is poor | More controlled, potentially less waste |
| Cost | Very low (if tools already owned) | Initial investment for the kit (e.g., Epic Bleed Solutions) |
| Best For | Occasional DIY, budget-conscious | Regular DIY, workshops, convenience, precision |
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) About Brake Bleeding
How often should I bleed my brakes?
Generally, brake fluid should be replaced and the system bled every 2 years or 24,000 miles, whichever comes first. Always check your vehicle's owner's manual for specific recommendations.
What type of brake fluid should I use?
Always use the type of brake fluid specified in your vehicle's owner's manual. This will typically be DOT 3, DOT 4, or DOT 5.1. Using the wrong type can damage your brake system components.

Can I mix different types of brake fluid?
No, never mix different types of brake fluid. DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5.1 are glycol-based and generally compatible, but mixing is not recommended as it can reduce performance or cause issues. DOT 5 (silicone-based) is NOT compatible with any other DOT fluid and should never be mixed with glycol-based fluids. If your system uses DOT 5, it must be completely flushed before using another type, and vice versa.
What if I get air in the ABS module?
Getting air into the ABS module can be problematic as it's a complex component with many small passages. Some vehicles require a scan tool or a specific diagnostic procedure to cycle the ABS pump and valves to purge air from the module. If you suspect air in the ABS module after bleeding, it's often best to consult a professional mechanic.
Is brake bleeding a DIY job, or should I take it to a garage?
Bleeding brakes can be a DIY job, especially with a good kit and clear instructions like those offered by Epic Bleed Solutions. However, it requires care, attention to detail, and proper safety precautions. If you are unsure, lack the correct tools, or are uncomfortable working on a critical safety system, it's always best to have a qualified mechanic perform the service.
What are the signs of air in brake lines?
The most common sign of air in brake lines is a soft, spongy, or mushy brake pedal. The pedal might also travel further towards the floor than usual, and your braking performance will feel diminished.
Conclusion
Brake bleeding is an indispensable part of vehicle safety and performance maintenance. Neglecting it can lead to compromised stopping power and potentially dangerous situations. Companies like Epic Bleed Solutions provide accessible, comprehensive kits that empower both novice and experienced DIYers to tackle this crucial task with confidence. By understanding the importance of fresh brake fluid, following correct procedures, and utilising reliable tools, you can ensure your vehicle's braking system remains in optimal condition, giving you peace of mind on every journey.
If you want to read more articles similar to Brake Bleeding Excellence: Epic Solutions & Avid, you can visit the Brakes category.
