Peugeot 508 Clutch & DMF Replacement Guide

When your trusty Peugeot 508 starts to show signs of a slipping clutch, it's natural to wonder: can it be repaired? The unequivocal answer is yes, absolutely! The Peugeot 508, a popular sight on UK roads with a significant vehicle parc, is a highly serviceable car. This guide delves into the comprehensive process of replacing a clutch and dual mass flywheel (DMF) on a Peugeot 508 SW, specifically those powered by the robust 1.6 HDI engine, a common scenario for vehicles with over 170,000 miles under their belt.

A slipping clutch is a common complaint for high-mileage vehicles, often confirmed during a brief road test. While the initial appearance of the gearbox might suggest a daunting task, with the right approach and guidance, this repair becomes quite straightforward and, importantly, profitable for any independent workshop. The scheduled time for this repair is approximately six hours, making it an efficient job when tackled systematically.

Understanding the Need for Clutch and DMF Replacement

The clutch is a critical component in manual transmission vehicles, responsible for transmitting power from the engine to the gearbox. Over time, friction material wears down, leading to a loss of grip and the tell-tale slipping sensation. For modern vehicles like the Peugeot 508, the Dual Mass Flywheel (DMF) works in conjunction with the clutch, dampening vibrations and providing a smoother driving experience. When the clutch wears, the DMF often experiences increased stress, and it's best practice to replace both components simultaneously. This preventative measure ensures longevity and avoids the need for another labour-intensive repair soon after the clutch is replaced.

Initial Preparations and Component Removal

Before any tools are picked up, ensure the vehicle is safely positioned on a lift and proper personal protective equipment (PPE) is worn. The repair begins with a series of systematic removals to gain access to the gearbox. This initial phase, while seemingly extensive, is crucial for a smooth repair process. Start by removing the engine and gearbox undertrays, which protect vital components from road debris. Next, the plastic shield located under the front bumper needs to be taken off. Both front wheels and their respective wheel arch liners must also be removed to provide necessary access.

Further disassembly at the front of the vehicle includes removing the front bumper fixings and disconnecting the electrical multiplugs located inside the front wings. The front hub nuts also need to be loosened and removed. To access the top fixings of the front bumper cover, the slam panel trim must be removed. Once these top fixings are clear, the bumper cover can be carefully eased forwards, then completely removed and safely stowed away to prevent damage.

Gaining Access to the Gearbox

With the front end clear, attention turns to the engine bay to create ample working space around the gearbox. Begin by removing the air intake ducting, followed by the top intercooler hose. The entire air filter assembly, battery, and battery tray should then be removed. Finally, disconnect and remove the E box assembly. These steps collectively provide excellent access to the top of the gearbox, which is essential for the subsequent stages of the repair.

Once sufficient access is achieved, you can proceed to remove the clutch slave cylinder. A key tip here is to leave the hydraulics connected; this saves time and avoids the need for bleeding the system later. Next, disconnect the gear change cables and remove the starter motor. An important precautionary measure to prevent damage during later steps is to secure the radiator at the top to the front panel using cable ties. This prevents the radiator from dropping when the front subframes are removed.

Subframe and Drivetrain Disassembly

The vehicle lift should now be raised to gain access to the underside. Drain the cooling system by removing the bottom hose. While the coolant is draining, lower the lift to waist height and remove the front crash bar. Once the coolant has completely drained, raise the lift again and focus on removing the front aluminium sub-frame assembly. This involves removing two bolts from the front and four bolts holding the rear to the main sub-frame.

Next, the main front sub-frame needs to be disconnected. Firstly, disconnect any brackets holding the power steering pipe to the subframe, ensuring the pipe is completely free. Disconnect both anti-roll bar links from the anti-roll bar itself. Proceed to remove the bottom ball joint pinch bolts and carefully disconnect the ball joints from the hub assemblies. Disconnect the bottom gearbox mounting, often referred to as the pendulum mounting, from the gearbox. Remove the two steering rack mounting nuts and secure the steering rack to the body of the car by tying the steering arms to the suspension struts. This prevents strain on the steering components.

To safely remove the subframe, support it using a transmission jack. Remove the four bolts that hold the subframe in place. Carefully lower the subframe, and once it is clear of the vehicle, lift it away and stow it in a safe area. This meticulous removal process ensures no damage to surrounding components and provides unobstructed access to the gearbox.

Gearbox Removal and Component Inspection

With the subframe removed, the gearbox is now accessible. Begin by draining the gearbox oil. Then, remove both driveshafts from the vehicle. Note that the off-side front (O/S/F) driveshaft also has a centre bearing that needs to be released. Once the driveshafts are out, remove the lower intercooler pipe that runs under the engine. Remove the exhaust catalyst bracket to gain access to the rear bell housing bolts. Finally, remove the retaining bolt for the reverse locking pin mechanism and then remove the entire reverse locking pin assembly.

Now, remove the remaining bell housing bolts, but crucially, leave one easily accessible bolt in position to support the gearbox until you are ready for its complete removal. Support the engine using either an engine brace or a support stand placed securely under the engine. Then, remove the top gearbox mounting. Once this is done, support the gearbox with a transmission jack. Carefully lower the engine and gearbox slightly. Remove the final bell housing bolt and gently ease the gearbox away from the engine. Once the gearbox is clear, lower the transmission jack and remove the gearbox from the vehicle.

Upon inspection, it is often evident that the clutch has reached the end of its service life. A clear indicator is when the self-adjusting clutch springs are fully extended, signifying maximum wear. Before installing the new components, check the back of the engine for any oil or coolant leaks and rectify them immediately if found. Clean the back of the engine thoroughly with brake and clutch dust cleaner. Compare the new Dual Mass Flywheel with the old one to ensure it is the correct part for the vehicle. Mount the new DMF, ensuring the dowel locates correctly. Insert the new flywheel bolts supplied with the kit and torque them to the manufacturer's specification. These torque values are readily available through resources like Schaeffler’s REPXPERT on-line information portal or Schaeffler’s Checkpoint DMF app.

Installation of New Components and Reassembly

With the DMF in place, attention shifts to the clutch release mechanism. Replace the release bearing and thoroughly check all clutch release mechanism components for wear. It is common to find wear on the clutch release fork at the pivot point and the release bearing contact area. The ball pivot itself often shows wear, as does the release bearing guide tube. It is highly recommended to replace all these worn items to ensure proper clutch operation and prevent premature failure of the new clutch.

Clean the bell housing thoroughly with brake and clutch dust cleaner to remove any residual dust and debris. Apply a light smear of high melting point grease onto the gearbox input shaft splines. Then, mount the new clutch plate onto the input shaft. This step serves two purposes: it confirms the clutch plate is correct for the vehicle, and it evenly distributes the grease. Remove the clutch plate and wipe off any excess grease.

Using a clutch alignment tool, or even better, a self-adjusting clutch mounting tool, mount the new clutch assembly. Ensure the side marked 'gearbox side' (or 'getriebe seite', which is often etched into the clutch plate centre) is facing the gearbox. Then, tighten and torque the bolts in an even and sequential manner to the manufacturer's specifications. This ensures the clutch is correctly seated and prevents warping.

Before re-installing the gearbox, check that the engine to gearbox alignment dowels are located correctly. Now, using the transmission jack, carefully install the gearbox, easing it into position and ensuring it locates correctly on the dowels. Secure it in position using an easily accessible bolt first, then proceed to refit all components in the reverse order of their removal. Remember to replace the gearbox oil with the correct type and quantity as specified by the manufacturer.

Once the battery has been installed, ensure all electrical systems are reset. This may involve using diagnostic equipment to clear fault codes or reset learned values. Finally, a thorough road test of the vehicle is essential to ensure a successful repair. During the road test, check for smooth gear changes, proper clutch engagement, and the absence of any slipping or unusual noises. This final step confirms the quality of the repair and the vehicle's readiness for the road.

Comparative Table: Old vs. New Clutch Components

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Q1: What are the common symptoms of a failing clutch on a Peugeot 508?

A failing clutch typically presents several symptoms. The most common is a slipping clutch, where the engine revs increase but the vehicle doesn't accelerate proportionally, especially under load or in higher gears. Other signs include difficulty changing gears, a burning smell (like burnt toast), a soft or spongy clutch pedal, or a clutch pedal that feels stiff and hard to push. Sometimes, unusual noises like grinding or squealing when pressing or releasing the pedal can also indicate a problem.

Q2: Do I always need to replace the Dual Mass Flywheel (DMF) when replacing the clutch on a Peugeot 508?

While not strictly mandatory in every single case, it is highly recommended to replace the Dual Mass Flywheel (DMF) when the clutch is being replaced, especially on high-mileage vehicles. The DMF is designed to absorb engine vibrations and works in harmony with the clutch. A worn clutch can put additional stress on the DMF, leading to its premature failure. Replacing both components at the same time is cost-effective in the long run as it avoids the significant labour cost of having to remove the gearbox again soon after for a separate DMF replacement.

Q3: How long does a clutch replacement typically take on a Peugeot 508?

For a skilled technician in an independent workshop, the scheduled time for a clutch and DMF replacement on a Peugeot 508 is approximately six hours. This is the estimated labour time and does not include diagnostic checks or potential unforeseen issues. However, with the detailed guidance provided, many workshops can complete the job efficiently within this timeframe.

Q4: Is this a DIY repair for the average car owner?

Clutch and DMF replacement on a Peugeot 508 is a complex and labour-intensive repair that requires specialised tools, knowledge of vehicle mechanics, and safe lifting equipment. It involves significant disassembly of the vehicle's front end, subframes, and drivetrain components. Therefore, it is generally not recommended as a DIY job for the average car owner. It is best left to experienced mechanics in a professional workshop to ensure safety, correct installation, and proper functioning of the vehicle.

Q5: What is the importance of using manufacturer-specified torque values during reassembly?

Using the correct torque values for all fasteners during reassembly is paramount. Torque specifies the rotational force applied to tighten a fastener. Under-torquing can lead to loose components, potential vibrations, and even catastrophic failure. Over-torquing can strip threads, deform components, or cause premature fatigue of the fastener or component. Manufacturer-specified torque values are meticulously calculated to ensure the integrity, safety, and longevity of the repaired system. Resources like Schaeffler’s REPXPERT provide easy access to these critical values.

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