Hyundai Getz: DIY Brake Pads & Drums Guide

Your Hyundai Getz, a common sight on UK roads, is renowned for its reliability and practicality. However, like any vehicle, its Braking System is a critical component that demands regular attention to ensure your Safety and the safety of others. Neglecting brake Maintenance can lead to compromised stopping power, increased wear on other components, and potentially hazardous driving conditions. This detailed guide will empower you with the knowledge to confidently replace your front brake pads and understand the intricate process of removing and inspecting the rear brake drums on your Hyundai Getz. Whether you're a seasoned DIY enthusiast or looking to save on garage costs, understanding these procedures is invaluable.

It's vital to approach any work on your vehicle's brakes with utmost care and a commitment to safety. If you're unsure at any point, it's always best to consult a qualified mechanic. Always ensure you have the correct tools, new parts, and a safe working environment before you begin.

Replacing Hyundai Getz Front Brake Pads

Replacing front brake pads is a common maintenance task that, with the right approach, can be completed by a competent home mechanic. This procedure is essential for maintaining the braking system's effectiveness and ensuring safe driving.

Tools and Materials You'll Need:

• Hydraulic jack and at least two sturdy axle stands
• Wheel chocks
• Lug wrench
• Socket wrench set (typically 12mm and 14mm sockets for caliper bolts)
• C-clamp or brake caliper piston compressor tool
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Brake grease (high-temperature, synthetic)
• New Hyundai Getz specific brake pads (ensure they are the correct type for your vehicle)
• Safety glasses and gloves
• Torque wrench (highly recommended for correct lug nut and caliper bolt tightening)

Step-by-Step Guide:

1. Preparation and Safety First: Park your Getz on a flat, level, and solid surface. Engage the handbrake firmly and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels to prevent any movement. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheel you are working on, but do not remove them yet.
2. Lift and Secure the Vehicle: Using your hydraulic jack, lift the front of the Getz until the wheel is off the ground. Immediately place axle stands securely under the vehicle's frame, near the jacking points. Lower the vehicle onto the axle stands, ensuring it is stable before proceeding. Remove the lug nuts and then the wheel.
3. Access the Brake Caliper: Once the wheel is off, you will see the brake disc (rotor) and the caliper assembly clamped over it. Inspect the brake hose for any signs of damage or leaks.
4. Remove Caliper Bolts: Locate the two guide pin bolts on the back of the brake caliper. These are usually 12mm or 14mm. You may only need to remove the lower bolt completely and loosen the upper one to pivot the caliper up. Carefully loosen and remove the bolts.
5. Remove the Caliper: Gently slide the caliper off the brake disc. Be very careful not to let the caliper hang by the brake hose, as this can damage the hose and lead to brake fluid leaks. Use a piece of wire or a bungee cord to suspend the caliper safely from the suspension component.
6. Remove Old Brake Pads: The old brake pads will now be exposed within the caliper bracket. Note their orientation. They usually slide out easily from the caliper bracket. There might be shims or anti-rattle clips; pay attention to how they are fitted.
7. Clean and Inspect: Use a wire brush to clean any rust or brake dust from the caliper bracket where the pads sit. Apply a thin layer of brake grease to the contact points on the caliper bracket (where the metal backing plates of the pads slide), but ensure no grease gets on the brake disc or pad friction material. Inspect the brake disc for excessive wear, deep grooves, or warping. If the disc is heavily worn or damaged, it should also be replaced.
8. Compress the Piston: Before installing new, thicker pads, you'll need to push the caliper piston back into its bore to create space. Use a C-clamp or a dedicated brake caliper piston compressor tool. Place an old brake pad or a piece of wood against the piston to protect it while compressing. As you compress the piston, brake fluid will be pushed back into the master cylinder reservoir. Keep an eye on the fluid level to ensure it doesn't overflow.
9. Install New Brake Pads: Carefully install the new brake pads into the caliper bracket, ensuring they are correctly seated and oriented. If your new pads came with new shims or clips, install those as well, following the manufacturer's instructions.
10. Reinstall the Caliper: Carefully lower the caliper back into position over the new pads and brake disc. Reinsert and tighten the guide pin bolts. It's crucial to torque these bolts to the manufacturer's specified setting (consult your Getz service manual or an online resource for the exact torque value).
11. Reinstall Wheel and Lower Vehicle: Reattach the wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts. Lift the vehicle off the axle stands with the jack, remove the stands, and then fully lower the vehicle. Torque the lug nuts to the manufacturer's specifications (usually around 65-80 lb-ft for a Getz).
12. Pump the Brake Pedal: Before driving, get into the car and pump the brake pedal several times until it feels firm. This action pushes the caliper piston out against the new pads and takes up any slack. Do not skip this step!
13. The Bedding-In Process: This is a crucial final step. Drive your Getz carefully, avoiding hard braking for the first 100-200 miles. Perform several moderate stops from about 30 mph down to 10 mph, allowing the brakes to cool between stops. This process helps the new pads conform to the disc surface, optimising braking performance and longevity.

How to Remove Rear Brake Drums on a Hyundai Getz

Rear Brake Drums on a Hyundai Getz typically last much longer than front pads, but they do require inspection and occasional service, especially if you're experiencing issues like a knocking sound or reduced braking efficiency from the rear. The process involves accessing the internal components of the drum brake system.

Tools and Materials You'll Need:

• All tools from the front brake pad section (jack, stands, lug wrench, etc.)
• Rubber mallet or dead blow hammer
• Penetrating oil (e.g., WD-40)
• Brake spring pliers or a brake tool kit (highly recommended)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Brake cleaner spray
• Gloves and safety glasses

Step-by-Step Guide:

1. Preparation and Safety: As with the front brakes, ensure your Getz is parked on a flat, solid surface. Engage the handbrake, chock the front wheels, and loosen the rear wheel lug nuts.
2. Lift and Secure: Lift the rear of the Getz using your jack and place axle stands securely under the vehicle's frame. Lower the car onto the stands and remove the wheel. Crucially, release the handbrake once the car is safely on stands, as it applies pressure to the rear drums and will prevent their removal.
3. Remove the Brake Drum: The brake drum is a large, cup-shaped component covering the brake shoes. It might be held by small retaining screws on the wheel studs (some Getz models have these, some don't), or it might simply be seized due to rust.
• If there are retaining screws, remove them with a screwdriver.
• If the drum is stuck, try tapping around its circumference with a rubber mallet. Rotate the drum and tap again.
• Many drums have two small threaded holes on their face between the wheel studs. You can thread two appropriately sized bolts (often M8 x 1.25) into these holes and tighten them alternately. This will act as a puller, forcing the drum off its hub. Be patient, apply penetrating oil if necessary, and use even pressure.
• Once loose, carefully pull the drum straight off.
4. Inspect Internal Components: With the drum removed, you'll see the brake shoes, springs, and the automatic adjuster mechanism. Take a moment to observe how everything is assembled, as you'll need to reassemble it in reverse order. Check for excessive brake dust, fluid leaks from the wheel cylinder (located at the top), and wear on the brake shoes.
5. Remove the Shoe Hold Down Spring and Automatic Adjuster Spring/Lever: These springs hold the shoes against the backing plate. Use your brake spring pliers or a flathead screwdriver to carefully remove the shoe hold-down springs (often two per shoe, secured by pins that go through the backing plate). Then, remove the automatic adjuster spring and the adjuster lever.
6. Spread the Shoes and Remove the Shoe Adjuster: The shoe adjuster (often a star wheel mechanism) sits between the two brake shoes and is responsible for maintaining the correct gap between the shoes and the drum. You'll need to spread the brake shoes apart slightly to relieve tension and then carefully remove the adjuster assembly.
7. Remove the Shoe-to-Shoe Spring and Remaining Hold Down Springs: Finally, remove the large spring that connects the two brake shoes together (often at the top) and any remaining hold-down springs.
8. Cleaning and Inspection: Now that the shoes are off, thoroughly clean the backing plate and all components with brake cleaner. Never use compressed air to blow off brake dust without proper respiratory protection, as it can contain harmful particles. Inspect the brake shoes for wear (they should have plenty of friction material left), cracks, or glazing. Check the wheel cylinder for any signs of leakage. If there's a leak, the wheel cylinder needs to be replaced. Examine the springs for corrosion or stretching. Inspect the drum for deep grooves, scoring, or excessive wear. Minor scoring can sometimes be machined out, but often replacement is more economical.
9. Addressing the Knocking Sound: The information provided mentions a 'typical Getz problem with knocking sound'. This sound often originates from the rear brakes and can be caused by several factors once the drum is removed:
• Worn or Loose Brake Shoes: If the friction material is worn thin or if the shoes are not properly seated.
• Weak or Broken Springs: Springs that are fatigued or broken can allow components to rattle.
• Faulty Automatic Adjuster: If the adjuster mechanism is seized or malfunctioning, it may not keep the shoes properly adjusted, leading to excessive play.
• Excessive Brake Dust: While cleaning can help, if the components are still worn, the knocking might persist.
• Worn Wheel Bearings: Less common, but a knocking sound could also indicate a worn wheel bearing, which is located behind the brake drum assembly.

Cleaning everything thoroughly with brake cleaner is a good first step, as suggested. However, if the knocking persists after cleaning and reassembly, it's highly likely that worn shoes, stretched springs, or a faulty adjuster mechanism need to be replaced. Consider purchasing a complete rear brake shoe kit, which typically includes new shoes, springs, and adjusters.

10. Reassembly: Reassembly is the reverse of removal. Lubricate the contact points on the backing plate where the shoes slide (use high-temperature brake grease sparingly). Ensure all springs are correctly reinstalled and tensioned. Reinstall the adjuster mechanism, making sure it operates freely. Once the shoes are back on, adjust the star wheel adjuster (usually accessible through an inspection hole or by turning it before putting the drum on) so that the brake drum slides on with a slight, consistent drag. This ensures proper initial adjustment.
11. Reinstall Drum, Wheel, and Test: Slide the brake drum back onto the hub. Reinstall any retaining screws. Reattach the wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts. Lift the vehicle off the axle stands, remove the stands, and then fully lower the vehicle. Torque the lug nuts to specification. Pump the brake pedal inside the car until it feels firm. Drive slowly in a safe area to confirm proper brake operation.

General Brake Maintenance Tips for Your Getz

• Regular Inspections: Have your brakes inspected at least annually or every 10,000-15,000 miles. Pay attention to any unusual noises (squealing, grinding, clunking), vibrations, or changes in pedal feel (spongy, hard, low).
• Brake Fluid: Check your brake fluid level regularly. If it's low, top it up with the correct DOT fluid specified for your Getz. Never mix different types of brake fluid. Consider a brake fluid flush every 2-3 years, as brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, which can lead to corrosion and reduced performance.
• Quality Parts: Always use high-quality replacement parts. Cheap brake components may save money initially but can compromise your safety and wear out faster.
• Driving Habits: Aggressive driving with frequent hard braking will wear out your pads and drums much faster. Anticipate stops and coast when possible to extend brake life.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Q: How often should Hyundai Getz brake pads be replaced?
A: The lifespan of brake pads varies significantly based on driving style, environment, and pad material. Generally, front brake pads on a Hyundai Getz might last anywhere from 25,000 to 70,000 miles. Rear drums typically last much longer, often well over 100,000 miles, but still require inspection.

Q: Can I replace Getz brake pads and remove drums myself?
A: Yes, for mechanically inclined individuals with the right tools and a commitment to safety, replacing front brake pads and removing rear brake drums on a Hyundai Getz is a manageable DIY task. However, if you're unsure at any point or uncomfortable with the procedure, it's always best to seek professional assistance. Brakes are a critical safety system.

Q: What are the signs of worn brake drums on a Getz?
A: Signs of worn rear brake drums include a pulsating brake pedal (though less common than with discs), a grinding or scraping noise from the rear when braking, a noticeable increase in stopping distance, or the handbrake needing to be pulled up much higher than usual to engage.

Q: My Getz is making a knocking sound from the rear. What could it be?
A: A knocking sound from the rear of a Getz, especially when braking or going over bumps, is often attributed to worn or loose components within the rear brake drum assembly. This can include worn brake shoes, weak or broken return springs, a faulty or seized automatic adjuster mechanism, or excessive brake dust causing components to stick and release. While cleaning can sometimes alleviate the issue, often replacement of worn shoes and springs is necessary.

Q: Do I need to bleed the brakes after changing pads or removing drums?
A: Generally, no. Replacing brake pads or simply removing and reinstalling brake drums does not typically introduce air into the hydraulic system, so bleeding is not usually required. However, if you open any brake lines, like replacing a wheel cylinder during a drum service, or if your brake pedal feels spongy after the job, then bleeding the brakes is absolutely necessary to remove any air in the lines.

Maintaining your Hyundai Getz's Braking System is paramount for your Safety on the road. By understanding and performing these essential Maintenance tasks, you not only extend the life of your vehicle but also ensure a safer and more confident driving experience. Remember the importance of the Bedding-In Process for new pads and to carefully inspect your Drum Brakes for any signs of wear or damage. If in doubt, always consult a professional.

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