28/01/2007
Knowing where to buy a used car is a complicated business. There’s a bewildering variety of vehicles to choose from, and the decision becomes even trickier when you plan for it to do more than just your day-to-day commute. If your next vehicle is going to be used for towing a caravan, you’ll need to think carefully about matching the car to your caravan, ensuring it’s up to the task safely and efficiently. But even once you’ve decided on the right model, the next hurdle is finding the best place to make your purchase. Should you opt for the reassurance of a main dealership, or would one of the large independent car supermarkets offer better value? Could buying privately stretch your budget further, or should you even consider an online purchase? There are numerous considerations to be aware of, just as there would be with buying a used caravan.

Here, we’ll talk you through the advantages and disadvantages of each option to help you find the best used car for towing a caravan, ensuring you make an informed decision that suits your needs and budget.
Where to Buy Your Used Tow Car
The marketplace for used cars is vast, offering several distinct avenues for purchase. Each comes with its own set of benefits and drawbacks, particularly when the car's primary role will involve the demands of towing.
Main Dealers
Main dealers are often one of the most popular places to buy a used car, primarily because they hold the franchise for selling a particular make of car from new. While their used stock will be more varied, including cars from other brands taken in part-exchange, the majority of their used vehicles are likely to be from the same manufacturer. This setup is ideal if you have already narrowed down your shopping list to a particular make or model, but it can be less convenient if you wish to compare multiple brands in one location.
Main dealers also tend to focus on more recent models, so if you are searching for a vehicle that's 10 years old or more, you'll generally need to look elsewhere. Instead, you'll find a choice of well-maintained, newer cars.
One of the significant advantages of purchasing your next car from a main or franchised dealer is the comprehensive package of benefits that usually accompanies used vehicles. Manufacturer-approved used schemes typically include a year’s warranty, a thorough history check, a detailed mechanical inspection, and 12 months of breakdown cover. In some cases, these benefits might extend to two years, and could even include insurance against an MOT failure. Such extensive benefits are unlikely to be included in the asking price at a car supermarket or independent dealer, although they might be available at an additional cost.
While prices at a main dealer are generally higher than elsewhere, the difference narrows considerably once you factor in the value of the approved package. To secure the best possible deal, don't be afraid to haggle on the price – it's often expected.
Pros:
- Approved used package offers significant peace of mind, including warranty and breakdown cover.
- Generally offer high-quality, well-inspected cars.
- Test drives are usually readily available and well-organised.
Cons:
- Haggling is often needed to achieve the best deal.
- Unlikely to stock a wide variety of makes, limiting choice to one or two brands.
- Prices tend to be higher upfront compared to other options.
Car Supermarkets
Car supermarkets are independent dealers that operate on a very large scale. Unlike franchised dealers, they do not focus on one or two specific brands. Instead, they stock an extensive variety of cars from many different manufacturers, making them an excellent choice if you want to compare numerous models in one visit. You can also expect to find a broad range of ages, from nearly new vehicles to older, bargain-priced models.
While individual supermarkets may adopt different operational approaches, the classic supermarket model is based on the principle of 'pile them high and sell them cheap'. Prices generally undercut main dealers, and many operate with a no-haggle policy, meaning the price you see is the price you pay. This can simplify the buying process for those who dislike negotiating.
However, you typically shouldn't expect a long warranty or breakdown cover to be included in the price, though these are almost always available as optional extras at an additional cost. Test drives are usually available, but it's often wise to make an appointment in advance, especially if you're interested in a particular car. Supermarkets often cram a great deal of stock into their available space, so it can take time to retrieve a specific model for a customer.
Compared with purchasing from a main dealership, car supermarkets often adopt a more 'no-frills' approach. They might not offer the same level of personalised service, and sales staff are typically keen to finalise a sale quickly or move on to the next customer.
Pros:
- Plenty of choice from a wide variety of manufacturers and ages.
- Often no need to haggle, as prices are fixed and competitive.
- Generally lower prices compared to main dealers.
Cons:
- A more 'no-frills' approach to customer service.
- Longer warranties and breakdown cover usually incur an extra cost.
- Test drives might require advance booking due to stock logistics.
Independent Dealers
Significantly smaller than car supermarkets, independent dealerships have no formal tie to any particular manufacturer. They often acquire some of their stock from nearby main dealerships who take in part-exchange cars that are too old or high-mileage to sell on their own forecourts. This makes independent dealers a good source of older, more affordable vehicles.
Smaller independent dealers do not have a household name above the door to attract customers, so they tend to rely heavily on building a strong local reputation. This means the best of them will always strive to offer excellent service, valuing customer satisfaction and word-of-mouth recommendations. While such dealers won't have the same vast number of vehicles in stock as a car supermarket, if they have what you are looking for, there's a good chance it will be keenly priced. Unlike car supermarkets, you must usually haggle for the best deal here.
You can typically expect some form of warranty, often for a shorter period, but longer cover is likely to cost extra.
Pros:
- The best independent dealers offer great, personalised service.
- Your local dealer is often conveniently located and accessible.
- Often a good source for older, cheaper vehicles.
Cons:
- Limited choice of models available compared to larger outlets.
- Longer warranties usually come at an extra cost.
- Haggling is typically required for the best price.
Private Sale
Of course, you don’t necessarily need to visit a dealer to buy a car. You can always buy privately from the previous owner. In theory, this is one of the cheapest ways to buy a used car, as you are cutting out the dealer's margin. However, be aware that some private owners price their cars optimistically. It's crucial to compare the asking price with similar models from a dealer or other private sales to ensure the purchase you are contemplating offers genuine value.
Additionally, exercise caution when taking a test drive – always ensure your insurance policy covers you to drive another person’s vehicle. If you have any doubts whatsoever about the car’s condition, it is highly advisable to arrange an independent inspection by a qualified mechanic. This small investment can save you significant money and headaches down the line.

It's vital to remember that you do not have the same consumer rights when buying privately as you do if you use a dealer. Under consumer law, a dealer must sell a car that is 'of satisfactory quality', 'fit for purpose', and 'as described'. When buying privately, the legal principle of 'caveat emptor' (buyer beware) largely applies. Unless the seller actively misleads you or misrepresents the vehicle, there's very little comeback if the car turns out to be a dud. This lack of legal protection makes thorough pre-purchase checks even more critical.
Pros:
- Potentially the lowest prices due to cutting out dealer margins.
- No 'hard sell' tactics from sales staff.
- Direct communication with the previous owner for history insights.
Cons:
- Fewer legal rights and consumer protection than when buying from a dealership.
- Watch out for 'pride and joy' pricing, where owners overvalue their car.
- Requires careful due diligence, including independent inspection and insurance checks.
Comparative Table: Where to Buy Your Used Tow Car
| Buying Method | Pros | Cons | Price Level | Warranty/Benefits | Choice/Variety |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main Dealer | Peace of mind, high quality, approved package | Higher price, limited makes, haggling needed | Higher | Included (1-2 years) | Limited (mostly one brand) |
| Car Supermarket | Plenty of choice, no haggle, competitive prices | No-frills, extras cost, test drive logistics | Medium-Low | Extra Cost | Very Wide (many brands/ages) |
| Independent Dealer | Good service, local, older cars | Limited choice, extras cost, haggling needed | Medium | Basic (longer extra) | Limited (varied brands) |
| Private Sale | Lowest prices, no hard sell | Fewer legal rights, buyer beware, no benefits | Lowest | None | Variable |
Key Considerations When Choosing a Used Tow Car
Beyond where to buy, selecting the right car for towing is paramount. It's not just about getting from A to B; it's about doing so safely and comfortably with a caravan attached.
Towing Capacity and Kerbweight
The most critical factor is the car's official towing capacity, which specifies the maximum weight it can legally tow. This figure is usually found in the car's handbook or on a sticker near the driver's door. You must never exceed this limit. Equally important is the car's kerbweight (the weight of the car with a full tank of fuel and all fluids, but without occupants or luggage). For stable towing, especially for less experienced towers, it's widely recommended that the caravan's MTPLM (Maximum Technically Permissible Laden Mass – its maximum loaded weight) should not exceed 85% of the car's kerbweight. While not a legal requirement, adhering to this '85% rule' significantly enhances stability and safety.
Engine Type and Power
For towing, torque is generally more important than outright horsepower. Diesel engines typically offer more low-down torque, making them excellent choices for pulling heavy loads with less strain and better fuel economy. Petrol engines have improved, but often need to be revved higher to achieve sufficient torque, which can be less relaxing for towing. Consider the size of your caravan and the terrain you'll be covering. A larger, heavier caravan will benefit from a more powerful engine with ample torque.
Gearbox: Manual vs. Automatic
Both manual and automatic gearboxes can be suitable for towing. Automatic transmissions often make towing easier, especially in stop-start traffic or when manoeuvring, as they manage gear changes smoothly and prevent stalling. However, some older automatics can feel sluggish or less efficient. Modern automatics, particularly those with more gears or dual-clutch systems, are highly capable. Manual gearboxes offer more control to the driver but can be more demanding, particularly on inclines or when reversing.
Drivetrain: FWD, RWD, AWD/4x4
Front-Wheel Drive (FWD) cars are common and can tow smaller to medium-sized caravans effectively. However, under heavy acceleration with a caravan, weight shifts to the rear, potentially reducing traction on the front wheels. Rear-Wheel Drive (RWD) vehicles often provide better traction for towing heavy loads as the driving wheels are at the rear, where the weight of the caravan helps to increase grip. All-Wheel Drive (AWD) or 4x4 vehicles are often considered the ideal choice for towing, offering superior traction and stability, especially on slippery surfaces or when pulling off on a grassy pitch. They are particularly recommended for larger caravans.
Condition and Service History
When buying a used car for towing, its mechanical condition is paramount. A car that will be regularly towing will be under more stress than one used solely for solo driving. Insist on a full and verifiable service history. This shows the car has been regularly maintained and cared for. Look for evidence of major services, cambelt changes (if applicable), and any significant repairs. A well-documented history is a strong indicator of a car that has been looked after and is more likely to perform reliably when towing.
Tow Bar and Electrics
If the car already has a tow bar fitted, inspect it thoroughly for any signs of damage, rust, or wear. Ensure the electrics are working correctly (7-pin for basic lights, 13-pin for charging the caravan battery and powering internal appliances). If a tow bar needs fitting, factor this cost into your budget.
Pre-Purchase Checks for a Used Tow Car
Beyond the general checks for any used car, focus on these specifics for a tow vehicle:
- Full Service History: As mentioned, this is crucial. Look for regular oil changes, brake fluid changes, and evidence of any previous towing-related maintenance.
- HPI Check: Always perform an HPI check (or similar vehicle history check) to confirm the car isn't stolen, hasn't been written off, isn't subject to outstanding finance, and has a clear mileage history.
- MOT History: Check the car's MOT history online. This can reveal recurring advisories related to brakes, suspension, or tyres, which are all critical for towing.
- Tyre Condition: Inspect all tyres, including the spare. Ensure they have ample tread depth, no cracks or bulges, and are of the correct type and load rating for the vehicle.
- Underbody Inspection: If possible, get the car on a ramp. Look for rust, damage to the chassis, exhaust system, or suspension components. Pay particular attention to the area where a tow bar would be fitted, looking for signs of previous heavy towing or poor fitting.
- Test Drive: During your test drive, pay close attention to the engine's performance, especially under acceleration and up hills. Listen for unusual noises from the engine or gearbox. Test the brakes thoroughly – they will be under more strain when towing. Check the steering and suspension for any looseness or excessive play.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
What is the 85% rule for towing?
The 85% rule is a guideline, not a legal requirement, that suggests the loaded weight of your caravan (MTPLM) should not exceed 85% of your car's kerbweight. It's widely recommended by caravanning organisations as a sensible limit for stable and safe towing, especially for those new to caravanning. Exceeding this figure doesn't make it illegal (as long as you stay within the car's maximum towing capacity), but it can make the outfit less stable and more challenging to control, particularly in adverse conditions.
Do I need a special licence to tow a caravan?
The rules depend on when you passed your driving test. If you passed before 1 January 1997, you generally have 'grandfather rights' and can drive a car and trailer combination up to 8,250kg Maximum Authorised Mass (MAM). If you passed on or after 1 January 1997, you could previously only tow caravans up to 750kg MAM, or a combined MAM of 3,500kg. However, since 16 December 2021, the rules have changed, and most drivers can now tow trailers up to 3,500kg MAM without needing to take an additional B+E test. Always check the latest government guidance to confirm your specific entitlements.
What type of engine is best for towing?
Generally, diesel engines are often preferred for towing due to their higher torque outputs at lower RPMs. This provides strong pulling power without needing to rev the engine excessively, leading to more relaxed towing and often better fuel economy when under load. Modern turbocharged petrol engines can also be very capable, but may need to work harder.
How do I check a car's towing capacity?
The car's maximum towing capacity is typically listed in the vehicle's handbook, on a sticker inside the driver's door, or on the vehicle's VIN plate. It's crucial to find the exact figure for your specific model and engine variant, as capacities can vary significantly within the same car range.
What's the difference between kerbweight and gross vehicle weight?
Kerbweight is the weight of the car with a full tank of fuel and all standard fluids, but without any passengers or luggage. It's often used as the basis for the 85% towing rule. Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) or Maximum Authorised Mass (MAM) is the maximum permissible weight of the car when fully loaded with passengers, luggage, and anything else carried. You must never exceed the GVW. There's also Gross Train Weight (GTW), which is the maximum combined weight of the car and the fully loaded caravan.
Buying a used car for towing a caravan involves more than just finding a good deal; it requires careful consideration of the vehicle's suitability and the security of your purchase. By understanding the nuances of each buying avenue and focusing on the crucial specifications and checks for a tow car, you can embark on your caravanning adventures with confidence and peace of mind.
If you want to read more articles similar to Buying a Used Car for Towing a Caravan, you can visit the Automotive category.
