08/07/2013
Embarking on a Cotswold Adventure from London
Having spent time in the historic university city of Cambridge and made numerous excursions to the bustling capital, a desire to experience a different facet of British life began to stir. Our sights were set on the Cotswolds, a region renowned for its quintessential English countryside charm. We meticulously planned a three-day sojourn, aiming to immerse ourselves in the tranquil beauty of rural England. The Cotswolds, designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, promised rolling emerald hills dotted with picturesque thatched-roof farmhouses and villages built from warm, honey-coloured limestone. Our itinerary was crafted to encompass as many of these captivating villages as possible, interspersed with invigorating walks through the serene countryside, where sheep often outnumbered people, and punctuated by hearty meals at traditional pubs featuring locally sourced ingredients.
Choosing Your Cotswold Base: Where to Stay
The Cotswolds is an expansive area, spanning across six English counties. To maximise our exploration and maintain a relaxed pace, we selected a centrally located town. Stow-on-the-Wold proved to be an excellent choice, offering a spacious and well-appointed hotel, the Unicorn Aparthotel Suites, which, despite its modern comforts, retained a significant amount of character and charm. When selecting accommodation in Europe, we frequently utilise platforms like Airbnb and Booking.com. Booking.com particularly appeals to us due to its user-friendly reservation process, with many establishments offering free cancellation up to a few days before your stay. Furthermore, the site often features attractive last-minute deals. This flexibility allows us to book accommodation in advance while also keeping an eye out for potential upgrades or discounted rates closer to the travel date. For our stay, we secured a two-bedroom apartment with a fully equipped kitchen at the Unicorn Aparthotel Suites for a remarkably reasonable price, a significant reduction from its original listing.
Alternative Accommodation Gems:
Should your travels lead you to the Cotswolds, here are a few other highly recommended places that caught our eye:
- The Swan Hotel, Bibury: This hotel exudes classic charm and is conveniently situated directly opposite the iconic Arlington Row. It even boasts its own private stream, offering delightful fishing opportunities.
- 9 Arlington Row, Bibury: For an truly immersive experience, it is possible to stay directly on Arlington Row itself, in one of the final cottages along this historic lane. Bookings for this sought-after accommodation tend to open 15 months in advance and fill up rapidly.
- Lords of the Manor, Upper Slaughter: For those seeking a luxurious retreat, this magnificent manor, nestled in the picturesque village of Upper Slaughter, offers beautifully appointed rooms and exquisite gardens. It also houses a Michelin-starred restaurant for a truly fine dining experience.
- Thatch Cottage, near Castle Combe: If your plans include exploring the southern reaches of the Cotswolds and visiting the exceptionally photogenic village of Castle Combe, this quaint thatched cottage presents an unmissable opportunity for a memorable stay.
A Taste of the Cotswolds: Culinary Delights
The Cotswolds is celebrated as a premier culinary destination, with its pubs and restaurants expertly showcasing the region's exceptional local produce, including meats, cheeses, and fresh vegetables. The area is home to several Michelin-starred establishments and boasts a number of products with Protected Designation of Origin status, such as Single Gloucester cheese and Gloucester Old Spot pork. For enthusiasts of fine beverages, embarking on the Gloucestershire Ale Trail offers a fantastic opportunity to discover some of England's finest craft breweries.
Gastronomic Highlights:
- Bibury Trout Farm: Here, you can try your hand at catching your own trout.
- Kingham: The village of Kingham is renowned for its excellent pubs, including The Wild Rabbit and The Kingham Plough, offering a truly regal dining experience.
- The Porch House: For a taste of history alongside your meal, consider dining (or even staying) at The Porch House, recognised as England's oldest inn.
No visit to the Cotswolds would be complete without indulging in a traditional cream tea, featuring warm scones, rich clotted cream, and sweet jam. The scones at Huffkins in Stow-on-the-Wold are particularly outstanding, though numerous charming tea rooms throughout the region offer delightful afternoon treats.
Unique Food Experiences:
For a blend of culinary excitement and unique entertainment, consider witnessing the famous cheese rolling event on Cooper's Hill, near Chipping Campden. This exhilarating spectacle takes place annually on the last Bank Holiday Monday in May. If you are unable to attend in person, numerous videos online capture the thrilling nature of this competition.
While it is possible to travel from London to the Cotswolds by train, we highly recommend renting a car. This provides the invaluable freedom to follow your own itinerary and explore at your preferred pace. If you are flying into England, collecting your rental car directly from the airport is often the most convenient option. Websites like Booking.com allow you to compare prices from major car rental services such as Hertz, Avis, and Budget. For those who prefer to rely on public transportation, a comprehensive guide to exploring the Cotswolds via public transport is available and proves incredibly helpful.
Comparison of Transport Options:
| Mode of Transport | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|
| Rental Car | Flexibility, control over itinerary, access to remote areas, convenient for luggage. | Parking can be challenging in small villages, potential for narrow roads, cost of rental and fuel. |
| Train | Relaxing, avoids driving stress, can be cost-effective for solo travellers. | Limited reach to smaller villages, requires additional local transport (buses/taxis), less flexibility. |
| Public Buses | Cost-effective, environmentally friendly, allows interaction with locals. | Infrequent services, limited routes, time-consuming, may not reach all desired locations. |
A Three-Day Cotswold Itinerary: An Immersive Experience
Day 1: Gateway Charm and Riverside Beauty
Our journey commenced from London, taking us across the central part of the Cotswolds from east to west. Burford, often referred to as the 'Gateway to the Cotswolds', served as our initial stop. Its high street is a delight, boasting beautiful architecture and charming independent shops, buzzing with local activity. The street's gentle uphill slope offers increasingly splendid views over the rooftops and out towards the surrounding fields and farmland.
Next, we ventured to Bibury, a village renowned as one of the Cotswolds' most popular tourist destinations. The primary attraction here is Arlington Row, a captivating collection of 14th-century cottages, originally built as wool stores and later converted into weavers' cottages in the 17th century. As previously mentioned, securing a stay in Cottage 9 is an option for those who plan well in advance. Arlington Row is consistently ranked among Britain's most photographed streets. We noted that the once-controversial bright yellow car that frequently appeared in photographs seems to have been replaced by a more discreet grey vehicle.
We took our time exploring Bibury, visiting the Bibury Trout Farm and enjoying a delightful cream tea at The Swan Hotel. Our final stop for the day was Painswick, a quaint village situated on the western edge of the Cotswolds. Here, we visited St. Mary's Church, famous for its striking rows of ancient yew trees (precisely 103 of them!) and its remarkably well-preserved tombs and monuments dating back to the early 17th century. Painswick also serves as an excellent starting point for the Cotswold Way, offering access to panoramic viewpoints like Painswick Beacon. Due to time constraints and fading daylight, we opted to drive partway up the hill, reducing the final ascent to a short walk. Our trek along the edge of a golf course, passing a few locals enjoying a leisurely stroll with their dogs, offered breathtaking views. We were treated to a magnificent sunset, despite the bracing wind, and made our way back down before darkness fully enveloped the landscape.
Day 2: Historic Market Towns and Pastoral Walks
Our accommodation was in Stow-on-the-Wold, so we dedicated the morning to exploring this historic market town. The bell tower of St. Edward's Church was visible from our apartment, drawing us to its grounds. Ancient yew trees frame the church door, creating a scene reminiscent of something from 'The Lord of the Rings'. We indulged in delicious treats from Huffkins Café, including scones and a traditional lardy cake, and also purchased sandwiches from Cotswold Baguettes for our planned lunchtime walk.
Following our exploration of Stow, we headed to Bourton-on-the-Water, another exceptionally picturesque Cotswold village. This charming settlement is bisected by a gentle river, crossed by numerous small footbridges, and lined with quintessential Cotswold limestone cottages. As one of the more popular villages, Bourton can attract significant crowds, making an early morning arrival highly advantageous. For those who enjoy walking, the 14-mile Warden's Way begins in Bourton-on-the-Water and concludes in Winchcombe. If a full-day hike isn't feasible, a visit to Bourton combined with a walk through the nearby Slaughters offers a delightful taste of the Cotswold countryside. This relatively short ramble meanders through idyllic English landscapes, leading to the bucolic villages of Lower and Upper Slaughter. Highlights include the Old Mill in Lower Slaughter, which houses a tea room, shop, and ice cream parlour, and St Peter's Church in Upper Slaughter. The journey was made even more memorable by the unpredictable weather, transitioning from sunshine to fleeting snow flurries. As the heavens opened with a more substantial downpour, we quickened our pace, attempting to outrun the approaching storm clouds. It's advisable to pack layers and be prepared for changeable weather conditions.
After our walk through the Slaughters, our route took us towards Broadway. In the spring, the Cotswolds are a breathtaking tapestry of vibrant yellow canola (or rapeseed) fields. We discovered a public footpath that allowed us to walk through these stunning fields, a truly immersive experience. Following some playful games of hide-and-seek amidst the blooms, we returned to our car, passing more scenic fields abundant with flowers and grazing sheep. A brief stop in Naunton preceded our arrival in Broadway. Broadway Tower, resembling a miniature castle, provides a delightful photo opportunity and offers magnificent panoramic views of the surrounding valley, making it an ideal spot to witness the sunset.
Day 3: Historic Capitals and Iconic Views
For our final day in the Cotswolds, we directed our attention southwards, towards Cirencester and Castle Combe. Cirencester, often dubbed the 'Capital of the Cotswolds' due to its central location, may not be a major tourist hub, but it offers a wealth of attractive buildings and historical significance. Its deep roots trace back to Roman times, with remnants of a Roman amphitheatre still visible. Like many Cotswold towns, Cirencester's parish church was funded by the wool trade and stands as one of the region's finest examples of ecclesiastical architecture. Black Jack Street is particularly noteworthy for its collection of unique independent shops.
Our journey continued south to Castle Combe, widely regarded as one of the most beautiful villages in the Cotswolds. The view of Castle Combe from across the bridge is a strong contender with Arlington Row for the title of the most photographed spot in the region. The village has also served as a picturesque backdrop for several films, including 'Stardust', 'War Horse', and the original 'Dr. Doolittle'. Given the village's compact size, there is ample time to soak in the views and enjoy a relaxing tea at The Old Rectory Tearoom.
Beyond the Itinerary: Additional Cotswold Experiences
While our three-day itinerary provided a comprehensive overview, there are numerous other attractions we wished we had more time to explore. Sezincote House, with its striking Indian-inspired architecture, stands out as a place we eagerly anticipate visiting on a future trip. During the summer months, the Cotswold Lavender Farm near Broadway opens its gates to the public, offering the enchanting experience of walking through vast fields of fragrant purple lavender.
While walking is undoubtedly a perfect way to appreciate the countryside's beauty, horseback riding offers a romantic and immersive perspective, evoking scenes from a Jane Austen novel. For those with additional days to spare, consider extending your trip to include nearby destinations such as Oxford, Bath, or Cheltenham. If your travels take you further south, exploring the beautiful villages of Sussex is also highly recommended.
Frequently Asked Questions:
- What is the best way to get to the Cotswolds from London? The most flexible and recommended option is to rent a car. Alternatively, you can take a train to a Cotswold town and then use local buses or taxis.
- What is a good central location to stay in the Cotswolds? Stow-on-the-Wold is a popular and centrally located option, offering good access to many key villages.
- What are the must-visit villages in the Cotswolds? Bibury (Arlington Row), Bourton-on-the-Water, Stow-on-the-Wold, Lower and Upper Slaughter, and Castle Combe are highly recommended.
- Can you explore the Cotswolds without a car? Yes, it is possible using a combination of trains and local bus services, but it requires more planning and offers less flexibility.
- What is the best time of year to visit the Cotswolds? Spring and summer offer the best weather and the opportunity to see blooming flowers and vibrant green landscapes. Autumn provides beautiful foliage, while winter offers a quieter, potentially snowy experience.
The sheer picturesque beauty of the Cotswolds is undeniable, and we couldn't resist sharing a few more cherished photographs from our trip.
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