20/07/2018
Getting a Wheel Off & Back on Your Bike: A Comprehensive Guide
The ability to remove and refit a bicycle wheel is a fundamental skill for any cyclist. Whether you're tackling a puncture, preparing your bike for transport, or giving your drivetrain a thorough clean, knowing how to manage your wheels is essential. It might seem daunting at first, especially when a wheel refuses to 'fit' back on, but with a little understanding and practice, it becomes second nature. This guide will walk you through the process, from the simpler front wheel to the slightly more involved rear wheel, covering various brake types and common issues.

Why Would You Need to Remove a Bike Wheel?
There are several key reasons why you might need to detach a wheel from your bicycle:
- Puncture Repair: The most common reason. Accessing the inner tube inside the tyre is impossible without removing the wheel.
- Bike Transportation: To fit your bike into a car, a bike bag, or a box for airline travel, wheel removal is often necessary.
- Deep Cleaning: For an exceptionally thorough clean of your rear chain sprockets and derailleur, removing the rear wheel provides much better access.
- Tyre Changes: If you're replacing a worn or damaged tyre, the wheel must come off.
- Damage Repair: Fixing issues like a buckled wheel or broken spokes often requires wheel removal to facilitate repairs.
Mastering this skill will undoubtedly make your cycling life easier, allowing you to handle common issues and maintenance with confidence.
Understanding Your Bike's Wheel Components
Before we begin, let's briefly touch on some key parts:
- Dropout: The slots at the end of your forks (front) or frame (rear) where the wheel's axle is secured. These can be vertical or horizontal.
- Axle: The rod that runs through the centre of the wheel hub, securing it to the bike.
- Quick Release (QR): A lever system that allows for tool-free wheel removal and fitting.
- Axle Bolts: Nuts that screw onto the axle, requiring a spanner or wrench to loosen and tighten.
- Brakes: These can be rim brakes (caliper or V-brakes) or disc brakes.
- Derailleur: The mechanism that moves the chain between gears on the rear wheel.
Removing the Front Wheel
Let's start with the front wheel, as it's generally simpler.
Step 1: Brakes
You'll need to release your brakes to allow the wheel to move freely.
- Rim or Caliper Brakes: These brakes have pads that press against the wheel's rim. You'll need to open them up. Look for a small lever or button on the brake caliper itself (common on side-pull brakes found on many road and commuter bikes). Alternatively, for V-brakes (often found on mountain bikes and children's bikes), you'll typically lift the curved metal tube that holds the brake cable, creating slack.
- Disc Brakes: Good news! Disc brakes usually don't require any adjustment. The brake rotor (the metal disc attached to the wheel hub) is designed to slide smoothly between the brake pads without interference.
Important Note for Disc Brakes: If your bike has disc brakes, do not, under any circumstances, squeeze the brake lever while the wheel is removed. Doing so can push the pistons further out, making it very difficult to refit the wheel and potentially requiring a recalibration of the brakes, which is a more advanced task.
Step 2: Wheel Axle Release
Now, you need to release the wheel from the fork dropouts.
- Quick Release: Flip the lever open. You might need to hold the nut on the opposite side while you open the lever. Once open, you may need to unscrew the nut slightly to allow the wheel to drop out.
- Axle Bolts: Use an appropriate-sized spanner or adjustable wrench to unscrew the nuts on either side of the axle. You'll need both hands for this – one to hold the wrench and one to steady the opposite side of the axle.
Tip: If you're struggling to get enough leverage or if your arms feel too short, consider turning the bike upside down. This often makes it easier to access the axle nuts. You don't need to unscrew the nuts completely; just loosen them enough to allow the wheel to slide out.
Watch Out: Be mindful of small parts like springs, washers, and the axle nuts themselves. They can easily fall out and get lost, especially if you unscrew the axle completely. It's often best to just loosen them sufficiently.
Step 3: Dropout Removal
With the axle released, the wheel can now be removed from the dropouts.
- Identify the type of dropout you have. Vertical dropouts are more common on modern bikes and typically only allow the wheel to drop straight down. Horizontal dropouts, often found on older bikes or single-speed setups, allow for wheel adjustment along a slot.
- If you have horizontal dropouts, it's crucial to note the exact position of the wheel within the dropout. Use a marker pen or even a very light scratch on the dropout to indicate the wheel's current placement. This ensures you refit the wheel in the same position, maintaining proper alignment and chain tension (if applicable).
Gently pull the wheel downwards and out of the dropouts. If everything was loosened correctly, it should slide out smoothly.
Important: If you're not refitting the wheel immediately, or if you're transporting the bike, it's a good idea to tighten the quick release lever or axle nuts slightly. This prevents the axle from falling out completely, along with its springs and washers, making refitting much easier.
Removing the Rear Wheel
The process for the rear wheel is similar to the front, but with the added complexity of the drivetrain (chain and gears).
Preparation: To make things easier, shift your bike's chain onto the smallest rear sprocket and the smallest front chainring. This creates the most slack in the chain, which is vital for removing and refitting the rear wheel.
Now, follow Steps 1 and 2 for the front wheel:
- Step 1: Brakes: Release any rim brakes as described previously. Disc brakes require no adjustment.
- Step 2: Wheel Axle Release: Open the quick release lever or unscrew the axle bolts. Again, turning the bike upside down can be beneficial here.
Step 3: Derailleur Management
This is where the rear wheel removal differs.
- With the bike upside down and the axle loosened, you'll need to manage the rear derailleur. Gently lift the derailleur body and pull it towards you. This moves the derailleur cage out of the way, creating space for the wheel to drop out.
- As you begin to slide the wheel out of the rear dropouts, the chain will still be attached. You might need to gently let go of the derailleur and lift the chain slightly to manoeuvre the wheel clear.
- Again, pay attention to the type of dropout you have and its position if it's horizontal.
With the derailleur pulled back and the axle released, the rear wheel should now slide out of the frame's dropouts.
Refitting Your Bike Wheels
Refitting your wheels is essentially reversing the removal process. However, there are a few critical points to remember to avoid common frustrations.
Refitting the Front Wheel
- Brake Alignment (Disc Brakes): The most crucial step for disc brakes. Carefully align the rotor so it slides smoothly back between the brake pads. This requires a bit of dexterity and patience. Look closely at the gap between the pads and guide the rotor into it.
- Wheel Seating: Ensure the wheel is seated fully into the dropouts.
- Axle Securing: Close the quick release lever or tighten the axle bolts securely. For quick releases, ensure the lever is positioned where it won't snag on anything while riding. A good position is often tucked behind the fork leg. If the lever feels too loose when closing, tighten the axle nut on the opposite side slightly.
- Brake Re-engagement: If you have rim brakes, remember to re-engage them by closing the release lever or reconnecting the cable.
Refitting the Rear Wheel
- Drivetrain Alignment: With the bike still upside down, get the rear derailleur out of the way again by lifting and pulling it towards you.
- Chain Engagement: Carefully guide the wheel's hub and sprockets back into the frame dropouts. As you do this, ensure the chain wraps around the smallest rear sprocket.
- Brake Alignment (Disc Brakes): Just like the front wheel, if you have disc brakes, carefully align the rotor to slide between the brake pads.
- Wheel Seating: Ensure the wheel is seated fully and squarely in the dropouts.
- Axle Securing: Close the quick release lever or tighten the axle bolts securely, paying attention to lever positioning.
- Brake Re-engagement: Re-engage your rim brakes if applicable.
Common Pitfalls & Troubleshooting
Here are some issues you might encounter and how to resolve them:
| Problem | Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Wheel won't go back on. | Brake pads too close together (disc brakes). | Gently pry the brake pads apart with a clean, flat-head screwdriver or a tyre lever. Do not force the rotor. |
| Wheel feels loose after tightening QR. | Quick release not tightened enough. | Tighten the axle nut on the opposite side of the QR lever before closing the lever. |
| Chain is slack or too tight. | Wheel not seated correctly in dropouts. | Ensure the wheel is fully and squarely in the dropouts before tightening. For horizontal dropouts, check your marker line. |
| Brake rubbing. | Wheel not centred in frame/forks. | Slightly loosen the axle, centre the wheel, and retighten. |
| QR lever opens by itself. | Lever hitting frame. | Reposition the lever to a safer location, often tucked behind the fork leg or seat stay. |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Do I need special tools to remove my bike wheels?
A: If your bike has quick-release skewers, you don't need any tools. If it has axle bolts, you'll need an appropriate-sized spanner or adjustable wrench.
Q: My disc brake rotor won't go back between the pads. What should I do?
A: The brake pads may have moved too far inwards. Gently use a clean, flat-head screwdriver or a tyre lever to push the pads back towards the centre of the caliper. Ensure you don't touch the rotor surface with your fingers, as oil can affect braking performance.
Q: How tight should I make the quick release lever?
A: The lever should be firm enough that it's difficult to move with your thumb, but not so tight that you can't close it without significant effort. When closed, it should leave a slight imprint on your palm. The lever should also be positioned so it won't snag on anything.
Q: What's the difference between vertical and horizontal dropouts?
A: Vertical dropouts have slots that only allow the wheel to drop straight down. Horizontal dropouts have slots that run forwards and backwards, allowing you to adjust the wheel's position, which is important for chain tension on single-speed bikes.
By following these steps and paying attention to the details, you'll soon become proficient at removing and refitting your bike wheels. This handy skill will empower you to perform essential maintenance and keep your bike running smoothly, ensuring you can enjoy more rides with a smile!
If you want to read more articles similar to Bike Wheel Removal & Refitting Guide, you can visit the Maintenance category.
