What happens if you don't change engine oil?

DIY Car Oil Change: Save Money, Stay Mobile

14/06/2020

Rating: 4.69 (8778 votes)

For many drivers of brand-new vehicles, the concept of getting your hands dirty under the bonnet might seem entirely foreign. With manufacturer warranties dictating servicing schedules and local garages handling all maintenance, the intricate world of car mechanics remains a mystery. However, for those who cherish their current set of wheels and are looking to extend its lifespan while simultaneously trimming down hefty maintenance costs, learning how to perform a basic oil change at home is an incredibly rewarding and surprisingly straightforward endeavour. It's a fundamental skill that every car owner can master, offering significant cost savings and a deeper understanding of your vehicle's needs.

How long does it take to change engine oil?
Changing engine oil really is that simple and is a task that anyone can do themselves in order to save money. There is very little that can go wrong and it takes less than an hour as long as everything goes to plan. If you have any questions, feel free to get in touch and we can provide you with any advice on how to change your car’s engine oil.

While the thought of tackling a car's vital fluids might initially feel daunting, a routine oil change is perhaps the most accessible and impactful piece of DIY car maintenance a beginner can undertake. It doesn't require specialist tools beyond a few common garage items, nor does it demand years of mechanical expertise. What it does require is a willingness to learn, attention to detail, and a commitment to safety. By taking on this task yourself, you're not just saving on labour bills; you're also fostering a connection with your car, gaining valuable insights into its engine health, and empowering yourself with practical skills that extend far beyond the driveway.

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Why Change Your Own Oil?

The primary motivator for many to perform their own oil changes is, without a doubt, the financial saving. Garage labour rates in the UK can quickly add up, and a significant portion of your service bill often goes towards what is, for a trained technician, a relatively quick job. By doing it yourself, you only pay for the parts – the oil and the filter – which are considerably less expensive than a full service. But the benefits extend beyond just your wallet:

  • Significant Cost Savings: As mentioned, this is often the biggest draw. Labour costs for an oil change can range significantly, and doing it yourself eliminates this entirely.
  • Convenience and Flexibility: You can perform the oil change when it suits your schedule, not when the garage has an opening. This means no more juggling appointments or being without your car for a day.
  • Learning and Empowerment: Understanding how your car works is incredibly empowering. An oil change is a fantastic entry point into car maintenance, building confidence for other DIY tasks.
  • Quality Control: When you do it yourself, you know exactly what type of oil and filter are going into your car. You can choose premium products if you wish, ensuring the best for your engine.
  • Peace of Mind: Knowing the job has been done correctly, to your own high standards, provides a certain peace of mind that can be hard to quantify.

When to Change Your Oil?

The frequency of oil changes depends on several factors, including your car's make and model, the type of oil used, and your driving habits. Modern cars often have longer service intervals than older models, thanks to advancements in engine technology and oil formulations.

  • Manufacturer's Recommendations: Always consult your car's owner's manual. This is the most reliable source of information regarding recommended oil types and service intervals. It will typically specify a mileage interval (e.g., every 10,000 miles) or a time interval (e.g., every 12 months), whichever comes first.
  • Driving Conditions: If you frequently drive in harsh conditions – stop-and-go city traffic, extreme temperatures, towing heavy loads, or dusty environments – your oil might degrade faster, warranting more frequent changes. This is often referred to as 'severe service' conditions.
  • Oil Type:
    • Conventional Oil: Typically requires changes every 3,000 to 5,000 miles or every 6 months.
    • Semi-Synthetic Oil: A blend of conventional and synthetic, often lasting 5,000 to 7,500 miles.
    • Fully Synthetic Oil: Engineered for extended performance, these can often last 7,500 to 15,000 miles or even longer, depending on the specific oil and vehicle.

It's crucial not to solely rely on mileage. Even if you don't drive much, oil degrades over time due to heat cycles and contamination. An annual oil change is a good minimum, even for low-mileage vehicles.

Essential Tools and Materials You'll Need

Before you begin, gather all your tools and materials. Having everything to hand will make the process smoother and safer.

  • New Engine Oil: Crucially, ensure it's the correct type and viscosity for your vehicle. Consult your owner's manual or a reputable online oil finder. Getting the correct oil is paramount for engine longevity.
  • New Oil Filter: Ensure it's the correct filter for your specific car model.
  • Oil Filter Wrench: There are various types (strap, cap, claw), choose one that fits your filter.
  • Drain Pan: Large enough to hold all the old oil from your engine.
  • Socket Wrench and Sockets: To remove the drain plug. You'll need the correct size for your sump plug.
  • Gloves: Nitrile or latex gloves are recommended to protect your hands from oil and grime.
  • Funnel: To pour the new oil into the engine without spillage.
  • Jack and Jack Stands or Ramps: Essential for safely raising your vehicle to access the drain plug and filter. Never work under a car supported only by a jack.
  • Wheel Chocks: To prevent the car from rolling.
  • Rags or Old Towels: For cleaning up spills.
  • Torque Wrench: Highly recommended for tightening the drain plug and oil filter to the manufacturer's specified torque.
  • Optional: New crush washer for the drain plug (often recommended or included with new filters).

DIY vs. Garage Oil Change: A Quick Comparison

FeatureDIY Oil ChangeGarage Oil Change
CostParts only (oil, filter, washer)Parts + Labour + Disposal Fee
TimeVariable (30 mins - 1 hour, plus prep)Variable (often 1-2 hours including waiting)
ConvenienceAt home, on your scheduleRequires booking, travel, waiting
LearningHigh, hands-on experienceNone, service performed for you
ControlFull control over oil/filter qualityDependent on garage's choices
Tools NeededYes, initial investmentNone, garage has equipment
DisposalYour responsibilityHandled by garage

Step-by-Step Guide to Changing Your Oil

Always prioritise safety when working under a vehicle. Read through all steps before you begin.

  1. Prepare the Vehicle:
    • Park your car on a level, hard surface.
    • Engage the handbrake and put the car in 'Park' (automatic) or first gear (manual).
    • Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels (if lifting the front) or front wheels (if lifting the rear).
    • Allow the engine to warm up for 5-10 minutes (this makes the oil flow more easily), then switch it off.
    • Carefully lift the front of the car using a jack and support it securely with jack stands. Never rely solely on the jack. Ensure the stands are on solid points of the chassis, as specified in your car's manual.
  2. Locate the Drain Plug and Oil Filter:
    • Slide your drain pan under the engine, positioning it directly beneath the oil sump plug (usually at the lowest point of the oil pan).
    • Locate the oil filter, which is typically a canister-shaped component screwed onto the engine block.
  3. Drain the Old Oil:
    • Using the correct size socket, carefully loosen the drain plug. Be prepared for oil to start flowing immediately once the plug is loose.
    • Remove the drain plug completely (watch out, it might be hot!) and allow all the old oil to drain into the pan. This can take 10-15 minutes.
    • Inspect the drain plug and consider replacing the crush washer if it looks worn or if a new one was supplied with your filter.
    • Once the oil flow has reduced to a slow drip, clean the area around the drain hole and reinsert the drain plug. Tighten it securely, ideally with a torque wrench to the manufacturer's specification. Do not overtighten, as this can strip the threads.
  4. Remove the Old Oil Filter:
    • Position the drain pan directly under the oil filter, as some residual oil will spill out when it's removed.
    • Use your oil filter wrench to loosen the old filter. Once loose, you can usually unscrew it by hand.
    • Be prepared for a small amount of oil to spill as the filter comes off.
  5. Prepare and Install the New Oil Filter:
    • Take your new oil filter. Dip your finger in some new engine oil and lightly coat the rubber gasket (O-ring) on the new filter. This helps create a good seal.
    • Screw the new filter onto the engine by hand until it's snug. Then, tighten it an additional three-quarters to one full turn by hand. Some filters or manuals will specify a torque setting or a certain number of turns past hand-tight; follow these instructions. Again, do not overtighten.
  6. Add New Engine Oil:
    • Carefully lower your car from the jack stands.
    • Locate the oil filler cap on top of your engine (it often has an oil can symbol). Remove it.
    • Place a funnel into the oil filler neck.
    • Slowly pour the correct amount of new, correct oil into the engine. Your owner's manual will specify the capacity. Start with slightly less than the full amount.
    • Once the oil is in, replace the oil filler cap.
  7. Check Oil Level and Inspect for Leaks:
    • Wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump.
    • Pull out the dipstick, wipe it clean, reinsert it fully, and then pull it out again. Check the oil level. It should be between the 'min' and 'max' marks. Add more oil if necessary, a little at a time, rechecking the dipstick each time.
    • Start the engine and let it run for a minute or two. Check for any warning lights on the dashboard.
    • Switch off the engine and wait another few minutes for the oil to settle. Recheck the dipstick one last time.
    • Carefully inspect under the car for any leaks around the drain plug or oil filter. If you see any, tighten the component slightly (but do not overtighten).
  8. Reset Service Light (If Applicable):
    • Some modern cars have a service reminder light that needs to be manually reset after an oil change. Consult your owner's manual for the specific procedure for your vehicle.

Disposing of Used Oil Responsibly

This is a critical step and cannot be overlooked. Used engine oil is a hazardous waste and must not be poured down drains or into the ground. It can severely pollute water sources and harm the environment. Most local council recycling centres in the UK have facilities for accepting used engine oil. Some garages or auto parts stores may also accept it for recycling. Pour the old oil from your drain pan into sturdy, sealable containers (like old oil bottles or milk jugs) for transport. Always ensure responsible disposal.

Common Pitfalls to Avoid

  • Using the Wrong Oil: This is arguably the biggest mistake. Always use the specific type, viscosity, and specification of oil recommended by your car's manufacturer.
  • Not Changing the Oil Filter: The filter traps contaminants. A new filter is essential for the new oil to remain clean and effective.
  • Overtightening the Drain Plug or Filter: This can strip threads or damage the filter, leading to leaks or costly repairs. Use a torque wrench if possible.
  • Underfilling or Overfilling Oil: Both can cause engine damage. Always check the dipstick accurately.
  • Forgetting to Replace the Drain Plug: A catastrophic oversight that will empty your engine of oil very quickly. Double-check everything.
  • Working on an Unstable Car: Never, ever work under a car that is not properly supported by jack stands.

The Benefits of Regular Oil Changes

Regular oil changes, whether DIY or professional, are the single most important maintenance task you can perform to ensure your engine's longevity and performance. Oil lubricates moving parts, reduces friction, cools the engine, cleans deposits, and prevents rust. Over time, oil breaks down and becomes contaminated, losing its protective properties. Skipping oil changes can lead to:

  • Increased engine wear and tear.
  • Reduced fuel efficiency.
  • Overheating.
  • Sludge buildup.
  • Ultimately, premature engine failure – a very expensive problem.

By committing to regular oil changes, you are actively protecting your investment and ensuring your vehicle remains reliable and efficient for years to come. It truly is the lifeblood of your engine.

Frequently Asked Questions About DIY Oil Changes

Q: How often should I change my car's oil?

A: Always consult your car's owner's manual for the manufacturer's recommended interval. This is typically based on mileage (e.g., every 10,000 miles) or time (e.g., every 12 months), whichever comes first. Your driving habits (e.g., frequent short trips, towing) might necessitate more frequent changes.

Q: What type of oil do I need for my car?

A: Your owner's manual will specify the exact oil type (e.g., fully synthetic, semi-synthetic, conventional), viscosity (e.g., 5W-30, 0W-20), and performance standards (e.g., ACEA or API ratings). Using the wrong oil can cause significant engine damage, so always double-check.

Q: Can I mix different types or brands of engine oil?

A: While generally not recommended as a regular practice, mixing small amounts of different brands of the same type and viscosity of oil (e.g., 5W-30 synthetic from two different brands) for a top-up is usually acceptable in an emergency. However, for a full oil change, stick to one consistent type and brand that meets your car's specifications.

Q: What should I do if I overfill the oil?

A: Overfilling can be as detrimental as underfilling. If you've significantly overfilled, it can cause aeration (foaming) of the oil, leading to poor lubrication and potential damage to seals and sensors. You'll need to drain some of the excess oil. This usually involves carefully loosening the drain plug to let a small amount out, or in some cases, using a fluid extractor.

Q: Is it safe to change my oil without a lift?

A: Yes, it is perfectly safe to change your oil without a professional lift, provided you use a good quality jack and, crucially, sturdy jack stands. Never work under a car supported solely by a jack. Ramps are also a safe and convenient alternative for providing clearance.

Q: How do I know if my oil filter is the right one?

A: Always refer to your car's make, model, year, and engine size when purchasing an oil filter. Auto parts stores or online retailers will have compatibility charts or search functions to ensure you get the correct part number for your specific vehicle.

If you want to read more articles similar to DIY Car Oil Change: Save Money, Stay Mobile, you can visit the Maintenance category.

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