Outlander 800 Brake Pad Replacement Guide

Replacing brake pads on your Can-Am Outlander 800 is a crucial aspect of maintaining its safety and performance, especially if you're putting it through its paces like our user who instructs ATV safety classes. While the exact time can vary depending on your experience and the specific model year, a general estimate for a DIY replacement is typically between 30 minutes to 1 hour per axle. This includes removing the wheel, accessing the caliper, replacing the pads, and reassembling. However, factors like corroded bolts or stubborn caliper pins can extend this time. For those new to the process, it's always wise to allocate a bit more time and potentially consult a service manual.

Understanding Brake Pad Wear on Your Outlander 800

It's not uncommon for ATV brake pads to wear down faster than you might expect, particularly under demanding conditions. As highlighted by our user who experienced significant wear after only 500 miles due to sharp turns in safety classes, aggressive riding styles and frequent, hard braking will inevitably lead to a shorter pad lifespan. The type of terrain you frequent also plays a significant role. Mud, water, and grit can accelerate wear by acting as abrasives.

Types of Brake Pads: Stock vs. Aftermarket

When it comes to replacing your Outlander 800's brake pads, you have a few options:

• OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) Pads: These are the pads that your Outlander 800 came with from the factory. They are designed to offer a good balance of stopping power, durability, and quiet operation for general use.
• Aftermarket Organic/Sintered Pads: Brands like EBC, as mentioned by our user, offer a wide range of aftermarket pads. Organic pads are generally quieter and less abrasive on rotors but may wear faster and offer less stopping power in extreme conditions. Sintered pads, on the other hand, are made from metallic compounds fused together. They offer superior stopping power, especially in wet or muddy conditions, and are more resistant to heat fade. However, they can be noisier and may wear rotors slightly faster. Our user's experience with EBC sintered pads suggests they provide robust performance, though they didn't eliminate brake squeal, which is a common complaint with some sintered compounds.

Choosing the Right Pads for Your Riding Style

For aggressive riding, off-roading, or towing, sintered pads are often the preferred choice due to their enhanced durability and consistent performance under high stress. If your Outlander 800 is primarily used for casual trail riding, OEM or high-quality organic aftermarket pads might suffice and offer a quieter ride.

Step-by-Step Guide to Replacing Outlander 800 Brake Pads

Here’s a general outline of the process. Remember to always refer to your specific Outlander 800 model's service manual for detailed instructions and torque specifications.

Tools You'll Need:

• Socket set (metric)
• Wrench set (metric)
• C-clamp or brake caliper spreader
• Brake cleaner
• Brake grease (high-temperature, disc brake lubricant)
• Gloves and safety glasses
• Torque wrench
• Pry bar or flathead screwdriver (optional, for stubborn pads)
• Wire brush

Procedure:

1. Safety First: Park your Outlander 800 on a level surface. Engage the parking brake firmly. If you're lifting the ATV, use appropriate jack stands to support it securely.
2. Remove the Wheel: Loosen and remove the lug nuts holding the wheel onto the hub. Remove the wheel to gain access to the brake caliper.
3. Locate the Caliper: The brake caliper is the component that clamps onto the brake disc (rotor).
4. Access the Brake Pads: Most Outlander 800 calipers have two bolts that hold the caliper body to the mounting bracket. Remove these bolts. You may need to hold the caliper bracket with a wrench to prevent it from spinning.
5. Remove Old Pads: Once the caliper bolts are removed, you can often pivot the caliper body upwards or remove it entirely. The old brake pads are usually held in place by small clips or simply by the pressure of the caliper piston. They should slide out. If they are stuck, a gentle pry with a flathead screwdriver or a small pry bar might be needed. Be careful not to damage the caliper or rotor.
6. Inspect the Caliper and Rotor: While the caliper is off, inspect the brake rotor for any deep grooves, scoring, or signs of overheating. Check the caliper piston for any leaks or damage. Clean the caliper mounting bracket with a wire brush.
7. Compress the Caliper Piston: Before installing the new pads, you need to push the caliper piston back into its bore to create space for the thicker new pads. Use a C-clamp or a dedicated brake caliper spreader for this. Place an old brake pad against the piston and slowly tighten the clamp until the piston is fully retracted. Important: Watch your brake fluid reservoir under the seat; it may overflow if it's already full. You might need to remove a small amount of fluid with a syringe if necessary.
8. Install New Pads: Clean the new brake pads and the caliper mounting points with brake cleaner. Apply a small amount of high-temperature brake grease to the back of the new pads and where they will slide within the caliper bracket. This helps prevent noise and ensures smooth movement. Install the new pads into the caliper bracket, ensuring they are seated correctly.
9. Reassemble the Caliper: Pivot the caliper body back into place or reattach it to the mounting bracket. Reinstall the caliper mounting bolts and tighten them to the manufacturer's specified torque using a torque wrench.
10. Reinstall the Wheel: Put the wheel back on the hub and tighten the lug nuts by hand.
11. Final Tightening: Lower the ATV. Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to the manufacturer's specified torque.
12. Bed-In New Pads: This is a crucial step for optimal performance and longevity. Gently pump the brake pedal a few times to ensure the brake pedal feels firm. Then, perform several moderate stops from a moderate speed (e.g., 20-30 mph) without coming to a complete halt. Allow a short cooling period between stops. Avoid slamming on the brakes during this initial bedding-in period. Consult your new pad manufacturer's recommendations for specific bedding-in procedures.

Addressing Brake Noise

Brake squeal or creaking, as experienced by our user, can be frustrating. While new pads, especially sintered ones, can sometimes introduce noise, there are a few common causes and solutions:

• Pad Material: As noted, sintered pads can be inherently noisier than organic pads.
• Glazed Pads or Rotors: If the pads or rotors have become glazed from overheating, they can cause noise. Lightly sanding the pad surface with sandpaper or cleaning the rotor with brake cleaner might help.
• Lack of Lubrication: Ensure that the contact points between the pads and caliper, and the caliper slide pins, are properly lubricated with high-temperature brake grease.
• Loose Components: Double-check that all caliper bolts and mounting hardware are securely tightened.
• Rotor Condition: Warped or damaged rotors can also cause noise and braking issues.

If the noise persists after replacing the pads and ensuring proper installation, it might indicate a more significant issue with the caliper, rotor, or brake fluid.

Clutching Issues and Belt Dust

The user's secondary issue regarding the primary clutch not returning fully to its stop is a separate concern from the brake pads, but it's important to address. The description of belt dust suggests that the CVT (Continuously Variable Transmission) belt may be slipping or starting to wear. Belt dust is a common byproduct of a functioning CVT, but excessive dust can indicate a problem. The hesitation in the primary clutch return could be due to several factors:

• Worn Belt: A worn or damaged CVT belt might not engage or disengage smoothly.
• Sticking Clutch Sheaves: The primary clutch sheaves (the cone-shaped parts that the belt rides on) might be sticking due to dirt, debris, or wear.
• Issues with the One-Way Bearing: The primary clutch often has a one-way bearing that allows it to freewheel at idle. If this bearing is malfunctioning, it could cause the hesitation.
• Spring or Roller Issues: Internal components like the clutch spring or rollers could be binding or worn.

Taking the Outlander 800 to the dealership, as the user plans to do, is the correct course of action for diagnosing and resolving clutching problems. These issues can be complex and require specialized knowledge and tools.

Preventative Maintenance for Your Outlander 800 Brakes

To help your brake pads last longer and maintain optimal braking performance:

• Clean Regularly: After riding in mud or water, rinse your ATV thoroughly, paying attention to the wheels and brake components.
• Inspect Frequently: Make it a habit to visually inspect your brake pads for wear before and after significant rides. Look for a minimum pad thickness of about 2-3mm.
• Avoid Riding the Brakes: Try to minimize the use of brakes when not necessary, especially on descents where engine braking can be utilized.
• Proper Bedding-In: Always properly bed-in new brake pads to ensure they mate correctly with the rotors.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q1: How often should I check my brake pads on my Outlander 800?
It's recommended to check your brake pads at least every few rides, or before and after any extended or demanding excursion. Visual inspection is key.

Q2: Can I use car brake pads on my Outlander 800?
No, you should never use car brake pads on your ATV. ATV brake systems operate under different pressures and conditions, and using incorrect pads can lead to brake failure and damage to your braking system.

Q3: What is the meaning of 'bedding in' brake pads?
'Bedding in' is the process of transferring a thin layer of pad material onto the rotor surface. This creates a more uniform contact area, leading to better stopping power and reduced noise. It typically involves a series of moderate stops without coming to a complete halt.

Q4: My new brake pads are still squeaking. What should I do?
Ensure the pads were installed correctly, the caliper slides are lubricated, and the pads have been properly bedded in. If squealing persists, it may be the nature of the pad material (especially sintered) or a sign of a deeper issue with the rotor or caliper. Consulting your dealership is advisable.

By understanding the process and performing regular maintenance, you can ensure your Can-Am Outlander 800's braking system remains in top condition, providing the safety and confidence you need on any trail.