22/12/2009
Embarking on a rear suspension replacement for your Audi A3 can seem like a daunting task, especially if you're not a seasoned mechanic. However, with the right preparation, tools, and information, it's a project that many DIY enthusiasts can tackle. This guide aims to provide a detailed walkthrough, drawing from a personal experience of replacing the rear suspension on a 2007 Audi A3 8PA Sportback with a BKD Engine (2.0 TDI 103kw, non-Quattro). We'll cover everything from identifying worn components to the final torque settings, ensuring you have the knowledge to get the job done right.

- Why Replace Your Audi A3 Rear Suspension?
- Preparation is Key: What to Consider Before Starting
- The Scourge of Seized Bolts: Understanding Galvanic Corrosion
- Essential Tools for the Job
- Part Numbers for Audi A3 Rear Suspension (2007 8PA 2.0 TDI)
- The Replacement Process: A Step-by-Step Overview
- Torque Values for Audi A3 Rear Suspension
- The Condition of Old Parts
- Post-Replacement: Wheel Alignment
- Where to Source Parts and Tools
- Conclusion
Why Replace Your Audi A3 Rear Suspension?
The first signs of suspension wear often appear during routine checks like the MOT. Worn bushes, as highlighted in the example, are common advisories that, if left unaddressed, will eventually lead to an MOT failure. Beyond that, degraded suspension components can significantly impact your car's handling, ride comfort, and safety. Symptoms can include a less stable ride, increased noise, uneven tyre wear, and a general feeling of looseness in the rear end.
Preparation is Key: What to Consider Before Starting
Before you even think about getting your hands dirty, thorough preparation is crucial. This isn't just about having the right parts; it's about anticipating potential problems and gathering everything you'll need. Here are some key considerations:
- Gather Time and Materials: Accurately assess the parts you need to order. It's often more cost-effective and time-saving to replace multiple components simultaneously, especially if they are prone to seizing or wear.
- Axle Stands: Safety is paramount. You'll be spending a significant amount of time under the car, so investing in sturdy and reliable axle stands is non-negotiable.
- Bolts: Many suspension bolts are designed as 'stretch bolts' and should ideally be replaced with new ones. Genuine OEM bolts are highly recommended to avoid premature failure or difficulty during installation. Don't be tempted to reuse old, corroded bolts.
- Anti-Roll Bar: Accessing certain components, like tie rod bolts, often requires the removal of the anti-roll bar. Consider replacing the anti-roll bar bushes and clamps at the same time, as they are also subject to wear.
- Subframe: Dropping the subframe can make access significantly easier, but this also means you'll likely need to replace the subframe mounting bolts.
- Exhaust: While not always necessary to drop the entire exhaust system, you might need to replace exhaust mounts. Be prepared for seized bolts on these components.
- Jacking: A hydraulic jack can be invaluable for manipulating suspension components into place, especially when fitting bolts under tension.
- Take Photos: Documenting the process with photographs can be a lifesaver if you're unsure where a particular component or bolt came from.
- Leave in Bolts: Where possible, leave removed bolts in their original locations until you're ready to refit the new part. This helps keep track of what goes where.
The Scourge of Seized Bolts: Understanding Galvanic Corrosion
One of the most significant challenges when working on older vehicles is dealing with seized bolts. This is often due to a combination of factors: road salt, accumulated grease and dirt, and most critically, galvanic corrosion. This occurs when dissimilar metals are in contact, leading to an electrochemical reaction that effectively fuses the parts together. The only effective ways to combat this are through persistent application of penetrating oil (like RP90 or BDX), heat from a blow torch, and the brute force of an impact gun or breaker bar. In some cases, a reciprocating saw might be the only solution to cut through stubborn bolts.
Essential Tools for the Job
Having the right tools can make a world of difference. While some are essential, others can be considered optional but highly recommended for ease and efficiency.
Must-Have Tools:
- Impact Gun (or a strong breaker bar)
- 16mm – 21mm Sockets
- 14mm – 21mm Spanners
- Breaker Bar
- Ratchet Spanners (1/2" and 3/8")
- 1/2" Extension Bars
- Screwdrivers / Pry Bars
- Hammer
- Chisel / Punch
- Torque Wrench
- RP90 Rust Penetrant Spray
Highly Recommended (Optional) Tools:
- Blow Torch (with MAPP gas for maximum heat output)
- Fire Extinguisher (always a sensible precaution when using heat)
- Reciprocating Saw with appropriate blades
- T20 Torx bits
- T27 Torx bits
Note: Many of the nuts and bolts will have duplicate sizes, so having a second socket or spanner of the same size is beneficial for locking off opposing sides.
Part Numbers for Audi A3 Rear Suspension (2007 8PA 2.0 TDI)
Sourcing the correct parts is vital. The following OEM part numbers were used for a 2007 Audi A3 8PA Sportback (non-Quattro, 2.0 TDI). Always verify these against your vehicle's specific VIN and specifications.
Main Suspension Components:
| COMPONENT | OEM PART NUMBER | COMMENTS |
|---|---|---|
| Lower Wishbone | 1K0505311AB | Same part number either side |
| Tie Rod (Driver's side) | 1K0501530C | |
| Tie Rod (Passenger's side) | 1K0501529F | |
| Upper Wishbone | 1K0505323N | Same part number either side |
| Axle Guide (Driver's side) | 1K0505224K | |
| Axle Guide (Passenger's side) | 1K0505223K | |
| Coupling Rod (Drop Link) | 1K0505465AA | Same part either side |
| Springs | 1K0511115HE | Same part either side |
Additional Parts:
These are other components that may need replacing or are recommended to be replaced concurrently.
| PART | PART NUMBER | QTY | COMMENTS |
|---|---|---|---|
| Exhaust Mount | 1K0253144AH | 1 | Bolts are tight |
| Exhaust Mount | 8D0253147E | 1 | |
| Anti Roll Bar Bush | 1K0511327AR | 2 | Another is 1K0511327AP |
| Anti Roll Bar Clamps | 1K0511439E | 2 | |
| Suspension Strut Mount | 1K0513353R | 2 | |
| Lower Spring Cup | 1K0512297D | 2 | |
| Upper Spring Cup | 1K0512149B | 2 | Cap transferred from old |
| Suspension Strut Pipe | 1K0513425D | 2 | 1K0513425 for oval pipe |
| Suspension Bump Stop | 1K0511353S | 2 | 1K0511353J for oval pipe |
| Suspension Thrust Ring | 1K0513167 | 2 |
Nuts and Bolts Part Numbers:
This list assumes you are working on both sides of the vehicle. Items marked with '*' are singular to the vehicle.
| PART NUMBER | USED ON | QTY | COMMENTS |
|---|---|---|---|
| N10285402 | Axle Guide | 2 | Handbrake clamp screw |
| 1K0609734C | Axle Guide | 2 | Handbrake clamp |
| N10170804 | Axle Guide | 2 | Axle guide to bracket |
| N90648402 | Axle Guide | 4 | Housing to car body |
| WHT003468 | Axle Guide | 4 | Guide to wheel bearing |
| N10211202 | Subframe | 4 | * Subframe bolts |
| N90471802 | Exhaust Silencer | 2 | * Rubber/Metal Screws |
| WHT000228 | Lower Wishbone | 2 | Eccentric bolt |
| WHT000232 | Lower Wishbone | 2 | Eccentric washer |
| N10106402 | Lower Wishbone | 2 | Eccentric bolt nut |
| N10628601 | Lower Wishbone | 2 | Bolt |
| N10106402 | Lower Wishbone | 2 | Nut |
| WHT000227 | Upper Wishbone | 2 | Eccentric bolt |
| WHT000232 | Upper Wishbone | 2 | Eccentric washer |
| N10106402 | Upper Wishbone | 2 | Eccentric bolt nut |
| N91047502 | Upper Wishbone | 2 | Bolt |
| Not Applicable | Upper Wishbone | 2 | Shim |
| 1K0505193 | Upper Wishbone | 2 | X-Shaped Washer |
| N10401801 | Upper Wishbone | 2 | Nut |
| N90648402 | Suspension Strut Mount | 4 | Mount to body |
| WHT003467 | Suspension Strut Lower | 2 | Strut to wheel housing |
| N10304102 | Suspension Strut | 2 | Locking Screw for strut |
| Not applicable | Suspension Strut Lower | 2 | Shim for screw |
| N10644701 | Anti Roll Bar Screws | 4 | Anti roll bar clamp screw |
| N10211202 | Tie Rod | 2 | Rear Bolt |
| N10106402 | Tie Rod | 2 | Rear nut |
| N91047502 | Tie Rod | 2 | Front Bolt |
| 1K0505193 | Tie Rod | 2 | Front Washer (X-shape) |
| N10401801 | Tie Rod | 2 | Front nut |
| 191611715 | Brake Pipe | 2 | Retaining clip |
| 1H0611797C | Brake Pipe | 1 | 1 point bracket (zip tied) |
| 1H0611797 | Brake Pipe | 2 | 2 point bracket (zip tied) |
| 8K0611797D | Brake Pipe | 2 | 2 point clip |
| 1J0611853 | Brake Pipe | Not sure | Spacer sleeve |
The Replacement Process: A Step-by-Step Overview
This is a high-level guide. Refer to specific Audi A3 repair manuals for detailed instructions.
- Loosen Wheel Nuts: While the car is on the ground, slightly loosen the wheel nuts on the rear wheels.
- Jack Up and Secure: Safely jack up the rear of the car and support it securely on axle stands.
- Remove Wheels: Take off the rear wheels to gain access to the suspension components.
- Remove Components: Systematically loosen and remove the bolts securing the suspension parts you are replacing. This is where seized bolts and the necessary tools come into play.
- Fit New Parts: Install the new suspension components, ensuring all bushes and components are correctly oriented.
- Initial Tightening: Once new parts are in place, snug up the bolts.
- Load Suspension: Jack up the suspension to simulate the car's weight resting on the wheels. This ensures the suspension is in its normal operating position before final torqueing. Measure from the centre of the wheel bearing to the top of the wheel arch liner (aiming for around 400mm for this Audi A3 model) to achieve the correct ride height.
- Torque to Specification: Using your torque wrench, tighten all bolts to the manufacturer's specified values.
Specific Procedures and Tips:
- Arch Liner Removal: Removing the rear arch liners (secured by T20 Torx screws) can provide better access, though it's not strictly necessary.
- Handbrake Cables: If you drop the subframe, you may need to disconnect the handbrake cables. This involves loosening the handbrake, disconnecting T27 Torx clips on the axle guide, and detaching the cable from the caliper.
- Anti-Roll Bar: Removal of the anti-roll bar is often required for tie rod access. Be prepared for seized bolts and potentially needing to cut off drop links.
- Anti-Roll Bar Bushes: When installing new bushes, use a suitable lubricant like red rubber grease. Clamping them can be done with strong pliers or a vice. Zip ties can help hold them in place overnight while the rubber settles.
- Wheel Speed Sensor Clamp: Gently pry off the old clamp and secure the new one, or use a zip tie if the new part doesn't fit perfectly.
- Tie Rod Installation: Ensure the wider section of the tie rod faces the subframe, and the open section faces the rear of the vehicle to avoid interference with the axle guide.
- Suspension Strut Reassembly: When rebuilding the strut assembly, if you don't have specialized tools to hold the strut while torquing, use vice grips with rubber padding to minimise damage. Be aware this is not the ideal method.
- Spring Replacement: If replacing springs, identify the correct colour codes for your vehicle's load rating. Many springs are sold by part number, which is more reliable. Both springs in the example were found to be snapped at the base.
Torque Values for Audi A3 Rear Suspension
Finding precise torque values is critical for safety and longevity. While a dedicated Audi A3 Quick Reference book is ideal, here are some commonly referenced torque values. Always consult an official Audi manual or a reliable service database for your specific model and year.
| COMPONENT / BOLT LOCATION | TORQUE SPECIFICATION (Nm) | ADDITIONAL NOTES |
|---|---|---|
| Lower Wishbone to Subframe (Eccentric Bolt) | 60 Nm + 90° | Ensure correct orientation for adjustment. |
| Lower Wishbone to Hub Carrier | 100 Nm + 90° | Replace stretch bolt. |
| Upper Wishbone to Subframe (Eccentric Bolt) | 60 Nm + 90° | Ensure correct orientation for adjustment. |
| Upper Wishbone to Hub Carrier | 100 Nm + 90° | Replace stretch bolt. |
| Tie Rod to Subframe | 50 Nm + 90° | Replace stretch bolt. |
| Tie Rod to Hub Carrier | 50 Nm + 90° | Replace stretch bolt. |
| Axle Guide to Hub Carrier | 70 Nm | |
| Coupling Rod (Drop Link) to Anti-Roll Bar | 40 Nm + 90° | Replace stretch bolt. |
| Coupling Rod (Drop Link) to Suspension Strut | 40 Nm + 90° | Replace stretch bolt. |
| Anti-Roll Bar Bush Clamps | 25 Nm | |
| Suspension Strut Lower to Hub Carrier | 200 Nm | Crucial to get right; requires specific tool. |
| Suspension Strut Mount to Body | 45 Nm | |
| Subframe Mounting Bolts | 130 Nm | Replace if removed. |
Important Note on Torqueing: The process of torquing suspension components often requires the suspension to be loaded. This means the car's weight should be on the suspension (e.g., by placing the jack under the spring cup and lifting the car) before final tightening. Some bolts might require special tools or adapters to access with a torque wrench.
The Condition of Old Parts
As discovered in the example, suspension components can degrade significantly over time. In this case, both rear springs were found to be snapped at the base, a critical failure that would have eventually led to a loss of control. Replacing most components is a wise decision for long-term reliability.
Post-Replacement: Wheel Alignment
After any significant suspension work, a professional wheel alignment is essential. This ensures your wheels are pointing in the correct direction, optimising tyre wear and handling. A misaligned suspension can cause the car to pull to one side or feel unstable during cornering.
OEM Bolts Matter: Skimping on bolts can lead to issues during alignment. The example highlights how poor-quality replacement bolts with broken washer pins prevented proper alignment until they were replaced with genuine OEM parts. Investing in OEM bolts from reputable suppliers like VAGBOLTS or DEUTSCH PARTS is highly recommended.
Where to Source Parts and Tools
For Audi parts, eBay is often a reliable source, with specific suppliers like 'CAR PARTS IN MOTION' being recommended. For OEM bolts, consider specialist suppliers. When it comes to tools, a comprehensive toolkit from brands like Halfords, supplemented with specialized VAG tools (Torx, Triple Square), is a good investment for any DIY mechanic.
Conclusion
Replacing your Audi A3's rear suspension is a challenging but rewarding job. By preparing thoroughly, using the correct tools, sourcing quality parts, and adhering to torque specifications, you can successfully restore your car's handling and ensure its safety. Remember, if in doubt, consult a professional mechanic.
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