The Art and Essence of Makeup

In the realm of beauty, makeup often finds itself associated with the ephemeral world of fashion, frequently linked to the aesthetics of icons like Barbie or the Kardashians. However, beneath its glamorous surface lies a rich tapestry of meaning. Every word, every technique, carries its own history and a deeper significance that is brilliantly explored in a new literary work. This book offers a fresh perspective, revealing makeup not just as a superficial adornment, but as a profound art form.

The publication in question, "Les 101 mots du Maquillage à l'usage de tous" (The 101 Words of Makeup for Everyone's Use), penned by Anne de Marnhac, approaches the universe of beauty with an expert eye, drawing from historical, ethnological, and literary viewpoints. Moving beyond mere colourful trends and internet buzz, the book argues that makeup possesses a far more profound dimension. De Marnhac elucidates this through an artistic prose that seamlessly blends knowledge with poetry, wisdom, and the extensive experience of a seasoned writer who has been authoring books on beauty since the late 1980s.

Unveiling the Lexicon of Beauty

This unique makeup dictionary invites readers to discover a lesser-known facet of this ancient art. The very first word dissected within its pages is "ART." De Marnhac defines makeup as "a creation that transforms faces into landscapes, allowing for the infinite rewriting of human appearance." This poetic definition goes on to explore makeup as "the embodiment of dreams," a dream as old as time itself, influenced by mythology, such as the myth of Zeus: to metamorphose. The author astutely points out that the King of the Greek Gods, according to ancient narratives, wielded this art of metamorphosis to approach, and indeed deceive, mere mortals. He would rewrite his appearance superficially to mask his true identity. The parallel drawn between this divine art and makeup is particularly compelling. This romanticised definition delves into a thought that is often unspoken: the metamorphosis and illusion created by makeup allow us to dream, to appear as something we are not. It is simultaneously poetic and remarkably real. This art is also described as "the embodiment of dreams," a dream as old as the world, influenced by the myth of Zeus and his ability to transform.

From Artifice to Illusion

The second word explored is "ARTIFICE," which highlights the etymology of the word "maquiller" (to makeup) and poses the pertinent question: "to enhance or to create an optical illusion?" As the narrative unfolds, we learn about the evolution of the word "maquiller." Initially, it designated "a disreputable job, such as forging a document." It then evolved to mean creating an illusion in the theatre, and later, "to transform with the aim of deceiving." Today, its meaning has settled into "to transform with the aim of beautifying." While each of these historical meanings of "maquiller" still holds relevance and utility in contemporary society, the symbolic essence of the word traces its roots back to the metamorphoses of Zeus himself.

The Methodical Unravelling of Meaning

A discernible logic permeates the sequence of terms presented in the book. These 101 words were not chosen at random, and the reading experience is not structured like a traditional dictionary or glossary, where each word stands in isolation from its predecessors and successors. While one might be tempted to dip into it randomly, searching for intriguing terms and thus missing the overarching narrative, the book subtly guides the reader. Although the words are presented in strict alphabetical order, a discernible thread connects them from the very first pages.

Each page, each word, harbours its own mystery. Some terms may initially seem illogical in the context of makeup or beauty, yet they conceal profound symbolic secrets. Similarly, some words are accompanied by brief descriptions, while others are dedicated several pages by the author. This book is meant to be savoured, fostering a new vision of makeup and a fresh approach to the world around us and our daily lives.

Exploring Modern Interpretations

The Digital Age and Beauty Blogs

Consider the entry for "BLOGS." The author's perspective on this ubiquitous phenomenon is particularly insightful. De Marnhac highlights the "vitality" and "spontaneity" of blog articles, as well as the "register of complicity" that develops between bloggers and their readers. She describes this connection as "a common thread woven by women amongst themselves," subtly referencing the myth of Ariadne, whose thread served as a guide through a complex labyrinth. Blogs, in this sense, facilitate encounters with women from diverse backgrounds, dissolving distances through the digital screen and fostering a sense of solidarity. The author's personal reflection on her own blog, where she has connected with exceptional women through their visits, comments, and interactions, underscores this point. The virtual world, she argues, is not solely superficial; meaningful relationships are forged daily, and each reader's engagement represents a moment of discovery, learning, or simple escape, a sharing that transforms the universe of beauty and well-being into a tangible connection between individuals.

The Perils of "Hauling" and Consumerism

However, the author also addresses a specific, and arguably negative, aspect of blogging: the "hauling" phenomenon, originating from the USA. This involves showcasing "shopping hauls" or "loot," which de Marnhac finds disheartening for younger generations. She notes that "brands are already interested in the phenomenon," but the concern extends beyond commercial interests. Scientists, she points out, "lament early addictions to compulsive shopping" associated with this trend. This is an unfortunate reality; temptations are abundant, and new products are constantly released. For younger individuals, particularly young girls, this can lead to significant problems. Adolescents and children are more susceptible to mimicry; they are in the process of forming their identities and often look to role models, whether wisely or unwisely.

The Enduring Fascination with Blonde Hair

Following "BLOGS" is the word "BLONDEUR" (blondeness), a topic of natural curiosity for anyone with fair hair. The book delves into the symbolic complexity of this hair colour, exploring its dual nature as both childlike and alluring, referencing "artificial blondeness, often mocked," and the unfortunate prevalence of blonde jokes. The author provides a brief history of the fascination with blonde hair across generations and discusses various techniques for achieving this shade, effectively "making up" one's hair. The analysis concludes with a striking statistic: "only 2% of the world's population has blonde hair," yet the allure of blondeness continues to generate immense enthusiasm.

From Ancient Remedies to Modern Science

The entry for "DIY beauté" (DIY beauty) takes an unexpected turn, leading to the word "CUISINER" (to cook). The exploration of DIY beauty treatments reveals a surprising historical context. It is revealed that the first treatises on cosmetic recipes were published in the Middle Ages. The ingredients used then were a far cry from modern formulations, with women concocting their treatments using "cooked meats," "sheep bone marrow," "bat blood, ant eggs, green lizards..." – a starkly unappealing prospect by today's standards!

Illogical Entries, Profound Insights

The FBI and Self-Perception

The inclusion of "FBI" might seem entirely illogical at first glance. What could the Federal Bureau of Investigation possibly have to do with makeup? The book explains this through an experiment conducted by the brand Dove as part of a self-esteem study. The setup involved a sketch artist, trained by the FBI, creating a composite portrait of a woman without seeing her, based on two different descriptions:

• The woman describing herself.
• A stranger describing the woman.

The result was two distinct portraits. The stranger's description was "far more flattering," while the woman's self-description was "one of the harshest critiques" of her own image. This test highlighted the "FBI inspector" mindset we often adopt towards ourselves and our perceived flaws. The author, however, points out that composite sketches do not capture emotions or the colours of a face. Makeup, she suggests, can help achieve this, allowing individuals to "find themselves pretty" and even "get to know themselves" by mitigating our inherent tendency towards self-criticism.

The Metaphorical Zebra

The book concludes its collection of words with "ZÈBRE" (zebra), offering a metaphor for contemplation. The zebra, with its distinctive stripes, is presented as embodying "the very vocation of makeup," prompting numerous questions about the purpose and methods behind this unique form of personal expression.

A Wealth of Knowledge Awaits

Beyond these examples, Anne de Marnhac's "Les 101 mots du Maquillage" explores a vast array of topics. It delves into "Bronzage" (Tanning), "Solaires" (Sunscreens), "Coloration" (Hair Colouring), "Contes de Fées" (Fairy Tales), "Défilés" (Fashion Shows), "E-boutiques" (E-shops), "Selfie," "Effets Spéciaux" (Special Effects), "Fards" (Eyeshadows/Pigments), "Glamour," "Icônes" (Icons), "Kawaï," "Magazines," "Palettes," and various trends like "Pop Art," "Punk," and "Gothique." With over a hundred pages of knowledge to uncover, this book is a veritable treasure trove for anyone wishing to deepen their understanding of makeup, revealing it to be far more than just a superficial practice.

Published by Archibooks and part of a broader collection of "101 Words" on various themes, its modest price of €12.90 makes it highly accessible. You can find it in numerous bookshops.

What are your thoughts on this insightful work? Does this type of reading appeal to you?