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Triumph TR6: The Last True British Sports Car

10/07/2024

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The Triumph TR6 is a car that evokes strong emotions and a sense of robust, unadulterated motoring. Often described as “The blokiest bloke’s car ever built”, this moniker perfectly captures its appeal to those who relish the hands-on experience of maintaining and driving a classic. It’s a machine for the enthusiast who enjoys the scent of oil, the feel of a spanner, and the satisfying rumble of a powerful engine, ideally accompanied by a good cup of tea.

Why is my Pi TR6 starting so hard?
That could be a faulty one way valve on metering unit. Or a lazy injector. Rough 4 or 5 cylinder start up isn't unusual for Lucas PI TR6s. The two most likely causes are: - Faulty injectors that dribble and don't hold line pressure when the engine isn't running.
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A Legacy Forged in Triumph: The TR Series

The story of the Triumph TR6 is inextricably linked to the broader TR series, a lineage that began with a vision from Sir John Black, the chairman of Standard-Triumph. His ambition was to create a sports car that could rival the legendary Morgan, but with a crucial caveat: it had to be built using existing company components to minimise costs. This resulted in the TR1, also known as the 20TS. While not a commercial success, the 20TS was instrumental in germinating the ideas that would lead to the TR2 in 1953. The TR2 established the fundamental blueprint for the TR series, incorporating a new frame, revised suspension and brakes, and an upgraded engine, forming the foundation for all subsequent TR models, including the TR6.

Evolution to the TR6

The TR6 represents the final chapter in the evolution of a design that had its roots in the 1961 TR4, which featured a distinctive body style penned by the renowned Italian designer Giovanni Michelotti. Despite the updated aesthetics, the TR4 and its successors, including the TR4A (which introduced independent rear suspension in 1965), continued to utilise the same basic chassis framework as the original TR2. A significant leap forward occurred in 1967 with the introduction of the 2.5-litre, six-cylinder engine, derived from the Triumph 2000 sedan. This enhanced power unit, coupled with servo-assisted brakes, powered the TR5 (for Britain and Europe) and the TR250 (for the United States).

The Arrival of the TR6: A Karmann Makeover

Just a year later, in 1968, Triumph unveiled the TR6. The most striking difference was the significant modernisation of its body style. This revitalisation was entrusted to the German design house Karmann, who gifted the TR6 its clean, purposeful lines, cementing its status as a classic British sports car. The TR6 remained in production until 1976, achieving a significant milestone by becoming one of the most sought-after British sports cars of the 20th century. Its enduring appeal lies in its blend of performance, style, and that characteristic ‘get-up-and-go’ spirit.

Triumph TR6: Key Specifications

Understanding the mechanical heart of the TR6 reveals why it resonates so strongly with enthusiasts:

ComponentSpecification
Engine2,498cc in-line six-cylinder OHV
Power OutputEarly Lucas fuel-injected: 150 bhp. Later de-tuned fuel-injected: 125 bhp. US market carburettor model: 104 bhp.
TransmissionFour-speed all-synchromesh manual gearbox. Optional Laycock de Normanville electric overdrive (initially on 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears; later revised to 3rd and 4th only due to service issues).
SuspensionFront: Independent with unequal length wishbones and coil springs.
Rear: Independent with trailing arms.
BrakesFront discs, rear drums, servo-assisted.
Chassis & BodySeparate chassis constructed from 16swg steel box section with internal strengthening. Body shell bolted to the chassis.

Buying a TR6: Navigating the Classic Market

For those considering purchasing a Triumph TR6, it's essential to remember that you are acquiring a vehicle with considerable history. The adage about British cars of the 60s and 70s providing their own rust – “rust free, i.e. they gave you the rust for nothing” – while often humorous, holds a kernel of truth. However, with careful inspection, a sound TR6 is a rewarding acquisition.

Mechanical Simplicity

The mechanical components of the TR6, including the engine, gearbox, and drivetrain, are generally regarded as relatively straightforward to repair. This simplicity is a significant advantage for owners who prefer to undertake their own maintenance. The availability of parts, while requiring some effort, is also generally good, ensuring that most common issues can be addressed.

The Scourge of Rust

The primary concern when buying any classic car, and particularly one from this era, is rust. Chassis and body corrosion can necessitate a full strip-down and rebuild, a process that is undoubtedly challenging, time-consuming, and costly. While new body panels and complete chassis are available, it is advisable to steer clear of cars requiring such extensive restoration unless you are prepared for a significant project. Prioritise vehicles with solid structures.

Key Areas to Inspect for Rust

Meticulous inspection is paramount. Be vigilant in checking the following common areas for corrosion:

  • Headlight Surrounds: Rust often begins unseen beneath the paint, manifesting as bubbles. The areas around the headlights are notorious for trapping dirt and moisture, initiating corrosion.
  • Scuttle Seams: Examine the seams on the scuttle top where the wings attach.
  • Rear Deck: Inspect the top of the rear deck and its surrounding seams. Bubbling here often indicates deeper issues underneath.
  • Floor Pan Uprights: The upright sections of the floor panels behind the sills are critical. If these feel weak, it signals more serious structural problems.
  • Rear Wings: Pay close attention to the rear wings, particularly where they meet the “B” pillar and along the trailing edge.
  • Rear Valance: The bottom edge of the rear valance is prone to trapping moisture.
  • Boot Lid Lip: Check the rear lip of the boot lid. A small magnet can be useful here to detect body filler, indicating previous rust repairs.
  • Engine Bay: Look for rust caused by battery acid leaks or master cylinder fluid leaks, which can strip protective paintwork.

Chassis and Body Integrity

When inspecting the chassis and underbody, a small hammer or an ice pick can be invaluable. A sharp, clear sound from tapping the metal indicates sound structure, while a dull thud suggests hidden corrosion. Special attention should be paid to areas where two layers of steel are joined, particularly under the “T-shirt” area. If rust is forcing these layers apart, the repair will be extremely difficult, and such a car should generally be avoided.

  • Chassis Symmetry: Ensure the chassis is level and even on both sides.
  • Accident Damage: Look for signs of past accident damage, including kerbing impacts.
  • Mounting Points: Thoroughly check all chassis mounting points for wear or corrosion.
  • Differential Mountings: The differential is mounted via “pins” welded to brackets on the rear chassis cross member. Engine torque can put significant twisting strain on these mountings, potentially leading to cracks in the front cross member. This is a subtle but serious issue that often requires a body-off restoration to rectify.

Ancillary Systems and General Condition

Beyond the structure, a comprehensive check of other systems is vital:

  • Suspension: Inspect suspension components and bushings for wear and tear.
  • Electrics: Verify that all electrical systems function correctly, including all lights. Reach under the dashboard to assess the condition of the wiring loom; brittle, aged wiring can be a precursor to electrical gremlins. While re-wiring is possible, it is a meticulous and often frustrating task.
  • Engine Performance: Start the engine and listen for smooth, even running. A test drive is essential to assess how the car feels and sounds on the road. Pay attention to any knocks or unusual noises from the transmission, differential, steering, or brakes.

The Verdict: A Lasting Classic

As described by ‘Autocar’ magazine on April 17th, 1969, the TR6 was “very much a masculine machine, calling for beefy muscles, bold decisions, and even ruthlessness on occasion. It could be dubbed the last real sports car…” This sentiment rings true today. The TR6 is a car for those who genuinely love to drive, appreciating the visceral connection between driver, machine, and road. It rewards attentive ownership with an exhilarating driving experience, particularly the way it squats and powers through corners.

Aesthetically, the TR6 remains a handsome machine. Enhancing its appearance with a set of Minilite alloy wheels can further elevate its classic charm and reduce unsprung weight. However, the original steel wheels also possess their own timeless appeal, and if you're fortunate, you might find a TR6 equipped with period-correct wire wheels.

In conclusion, if you are in the market for a Triumph TR6, approach your search with care, observation, and a discerning eye. Being fussy about condition will undoubtedly pay dividends in the long run. Once you have made your choice, invest time and effort in its upkeep, and you will be rewarded with one of Britain’s most enduring and enjoyable classic sports cars.

Editor’s Note: If you have any tips, suggestions, or hard-earned experience regarding the Triumph TR6 that you would like to share, please contact us. Your insights are invaluable in helping fellow enthusiasts make informed decisions and contribute to comprehensive guides.

Image Credits: Darin Schnabel ©2017 Courtesy of RM Sotheby’s
Guide written by Jon Branch for Silodrome ©2017

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