16/03/2022
The search for a reliable Type 4 engine can feel like a quest for the holy grail for many Volkswagen enthusiasts. Whether you're breathing new life into a classic Bay Window or a vintage 914, sourcing a quality engine is paramount to the enjoyment and longevity of your vehicle. While rebuilding your own engine offers unparalleled control and satisfaction, it's not always feasible due to time, skill, or tool constraints. This is where the option of purchasing a rebuilt or remanufactured engine comes into play. However, the market can be a minefield, and understanding the nuances of what constitutes a good rebuild is crucial to avoid costly mistakes and significant downtime. This article aims to guide you through the process, highlighting key considerations, potential pitfalls, and reputable sources.

- The Utopian Ideal: The 'Old German Guy'
- When the 'Old German Guy' Isn't an Option: Rebuilders and Remanufacturers
- Preparing for Installation: The Longblock to Ready Engine Process
- Transmission Considerations
- Pre-Start Checks: Crucial Steps for Longevity
- Warranty Considerations
- Personal Experiences and Recommendations
- Break-in Procedure and Maintenance
- The Mail Order Dilemma
- Final Thoughts: Due Diligence is Key
The Utopian Ideal: The 'Old German Guy'
In an ideal world, you'd know a local, seasoned mechanic – the stereotypical "old German guy" – who has been exclusively rebuilding VW Type 4 engines for decades. These individuals often possess an intimate understanding of these air-cooled powerplants, a meticulous approach to their work, and a long list of satisfied customers. The downside? Their numbers are dwindling, their services are often expensive, and the time required for a proper rebuild, involving multiple specialist machine shops, can be considerable.
When the 'Old German Guy' Isn't an Option: Rebuilders and Remanufacturers
For those without access to such a specialist, the market offers several other avenues:
Original VW Remanufactured Engines
In the past, Volkswagen dealers could source remanufactured engines from VW of Canada. These were a premium option, often costing around $2,000 plus a core fee. Unfortunately, these are no longer in production, marking the end of an era for a factory-backed solution.
Renowned Independent Rebuilders
Sadly, many highly respected independent builders, such as the late Bob Donalds (aka "Boston Bob"), who operated at a similar tier to the "old German guys," have passed away. Their legacy lives on through the vehicles they powered, but their services are no longer available.
Budget Rebuilders: A Closer Look
The more accessible option for many is the "budget rebuilder." While cost-effective, this is where the most significant risks often lie. It's imperative to approach these options with a discerning eye and a healthy dose of skepticism.
Popular Budget Rebuilder Choices and Caveats
Based on feedback from enthusiast forums, certain names frequently appear. However, it's crucial to understand that even with recommendations, due diligence is essential.
GEX Engines: A Word of Warning
Feedback strongly suggests avoiding GEX engines "like the plague." Reports indicate a high failure rate, with engines lasting only a fraction of their expected lifespan. Issues cited include the use of mismatched case halves and other "atrocities." GEX is often compared to the "Maaco of the VW engine world," a choice made to facilitate a sale rather than ensure longevity. The company has reportedly relocated from California to Arkansas, possibly to avoid legal repercussions. Purchasing a GEX engine is seen as a gamble, with a statistically low chance of success.
AVP (Automotive Vật Production): A More Promising Option
Based in California, AVP has garnered a generally good reputation for rebuilding Type 4 engines. Many enthusiasts have had positive experiences with AVP engines purchased through distributors like Bus Depot. When ordering from AVP, it's advisable to be specific about your requirements, such as engine size, year, and the presence or absence of smog ports on the heads. For example, an "AVP #611" engine is a '72 1700cc without smog ports.
The Purchasing and Shipping Process with AVP (via Bus Depot)
When ordering through a distributor like Bus Depot:
- Drop Shipping: Engines are typically drop-shipped directly from AVP.
- Sales Tax: Unless you reside in the same state as the distributor (e.g., Pennsylvania for Bus Depot), you may avoid local sales tax.
- Core Fee: You will be charged a core fee, which is a deposit returned upon receipt of your old, serviceable longblock. AVP will inspect your core, primarily focusing on the case and crankshaft. Pistons, cylinders, and heads are generally considered expendable for core credit.
- Shipping Costs: Round-trip shipping is usually charged upfront. If the actual return shipping cost is less than what was charged, the difference is refunded.
- Delivery and Return: The engine is delivered to your garage. You have a specified period (typically 90 days) to return your old longblock in the same crate, ensuring it's secured properly (no duct tape!).
What AVP Engines Typically Include:
AVP engines often come with:
- Tapped and plugged oil galleries to prevent blow-outs.
- German gasket sets, including a German Viton flywheel seal and a new pulley seal.
- New pistons and cylinders.
- Rebuilt heads with new exhaust valves and reground intake valves.
- New pilot bearing.
- Flywheel shims.
Specific rebuild details are usually available on their website, and it's recommended to call and discuss your exact needs.
Potential AVP Engine Considerations:
- Head Gaskets: AVP may use head gaskets that VW has advised against, potentially leading to head gasket failure on all Type 4 engines, not just 2.0L models.
- Flywheel Installation: If you opt for AVP to install a step-cut flywheel, they will set the endplay. However, they do not typically install the flywheel themselves, leaving the responsibility for flywheel seal leaks with the customer.
- Hot Testing: Engines are hot-tested for 45 minutes on a rig, with oil temperature brought to 170°F. Compression, oil pressure, and for leaks are checked. The distributor drive pinion is installed and locked for transport.
Preparing for Installation: The Longblock to Ready Engine Process
Receiving a "longblock" is only the first step. Significant work is required to make it installation-ready:
- Engine Tin and Induction: You'll need to supply your own engine tin and induction system (carburettors or fuel injection).
- Break-in Period: While AVP engines are typically broken in, it's crucial to take it easy for the first 1,000 miles, avoiding prolonged idling in high heat.
- Gaskets and Hardware: You'll need new gaskets and fasteners, many of which will be sourced from your old engine or purchased separately.
Essential Additional Parts to Consider
Regardless of where you purchase your engine, a list of common replacement parts is essential:
All Models:
| Description | Part Number | Comment |
|---|---|---|
| Oil pressure switch | 021 919 081B | Prone to leaking from the top. |
| OP switch boot | 021-957 | Another rubber item susceptible to oil damage. |
| Exhaust port nuts | N 11008.13C | Copper clad, 8 required. |
| Flywheel felt | 111 105 311 | Single use. |
| Dipstick tube boot | 021 119 245 | Common leak point. |
'72-'74 Models:
| Description | Part Number | Comment |
|---|---|---|
| Fuel pump gasket | 021 198 311A | Pair included. |
| Engine tin screws | ST612W | Slotted M6x12mm, 50 pack. |
| Brake booster elbow (left) | 021 129 637C | Hard to find. |
| Brake booster elbow (right) | 021 129 637D | Hard to find. |
| Air cleaner elbow | 021 129 639 | Also used for charcoal canister. |
| Charcoal canister tee | 211 201 405 | Used up to 1977. |
| Carb to mixture distributor | N 20376.03 | 9mm. |
| Mixture distributor to intakes | N 20300.02 | 11mm. |
| Solex 34-PDSIT-2/3 rebuild kit | 021 198 575B | One carb per kit, x2 required. |
| Muffler nuts | N/A | 8mm stainless, get locally. |
'75-'79 Fuel Injection Models:
| Description | Part Number | Comment |
|---|---|---|
| Engine tin screws | MMSPHPSB6012-3E9 | Phillips M6x12mm, 50 pack. |
| Muffler gaskets | 043 251 509 | Buy double if flanges are warped. |
| Intake manifold boot | 039 133 241 | Prone to vacuum leaks. |
| Muffler nuts and bolts | N/A | 8mm stainless, get locally, 18 required. |
Optional but Recommended Replacements:
| Description | Part Number | Comment |
|---|---|---|
| Flywheel bolts | N 014 335 1 | Do not reuse if possible. |
| Oil cooler | 021 117 021B | Refer to AVP warranty for details. |
| Engine mounts | 021 199 231C | Often torn or oil soaked, 2 required. |
| Alternator cooling boot | 021 903 655B | Fits 55A alternator only (70A is NLA). |
| Thermostat | 021 119 159A | Hard to find. |
| Thermostat cable | 021 119 751 | Essential for proper cooling. |
Transmission Considerations
While the engine is out, it's an opportune time to service hard-to-reach transmission components. Neglecting these can lead to costly clutch replacements later.
| Description | Part Number | Comment |
|---|---|---|
| Clutch disc | 211 141 032C | 210mm disc; verify size (215mm or 228mm may be needed). |
| Release bearing | 113 141 165B | Address any grinding noises. |
| Starter bushing | 113 301 155 | Easy to replace now, difficult later. |
Pre-Start Checks: Crucial Steps for Longevity
Before you even think about turning the key, a thorough inspection and setup of your rebuilt engine are non-negotiable. This is where many rebuilds go wrong, leading to premature failure and voided warranties.

Valve Adjustment and Timing
AVP, for instance, states they set the valves and endplay. However, personal experience suggests these settings may be inaccurate. Always perform a:
- Valve Adjustment: Re-adjust valves to the correct specifications. Worn adjusting screws can make this impossible, necessitating replacement.
- Timing: Set ignition timing correctly for your specific year and engine type. Check total advance, not just initial static timing.
Cooling System Integrity
The Type 4 engine is air-cooled, and a compromised cooling system is a recipe for disaster.
- Engine Tin: Ensure all engine tin is present and seals are airtight. Any missing pieces or gaps will lead to overheating.
- Engine Compartment Seal: Replace if necessary to prevent preheated air from entering the cooling system.
- Fan Clearance: Keep the cooling fan clear of debris.
- Oil Cooler: Ensure the oil cooler is functioning correctly and is free of blockages.
- Catalytic Converter: Check for blockages, as this can restrict exhaust flow and increase engine temperatures.
Fuel and Air Mixture
Proper fuel delivery is critical:
- Carburetor/Injection: Ensure carburetors are clean, properly adjusted, and free from air leaks. A lean mixture can cause seized pistons or damaged valves and heads.
- Float Level and Choke: Adjust float levels and choke settings correctly. A rich mixture leads to excessive wear on rings and bearings.
Oil and Lubrication
Use the correct grade and amount of oil for your climate. Insufficient oil will lead to a lack of lubrication and catastrophic failure.
Flywheel and Crankshaft Endplay
Verify the crankshaft endplay. AVP may set this, but it's wise to recheck. Incorrect endplay can lead to premature wear and seal failure. Ensure you have a new flywheel seal if you remove the flywheel.
Distributor Drive Pinion
The correct indexing of the distributor drive pinion is vital for ignition timing. Errors here are common and can lead to significant running issues.
Valve Train Scrutiny
Inspect the valve train components, including lifters, pushrods, rocker arms, and adjusting screws. Worn components or incorrect clearances will compromise engine performance and longevity.
Compression and Leak-Down Testing
Before installation, perform both compression and leak-down tests. These tests are invaluable for identifying potential issues with valves, rings, or head gaskets that may not be apparent visually.
Spark Plug Threads
Chase the spark plug threads in the cylinder heads to ensure easy installation and prevent damage. This is best done with the heads removed.
Warranty Considerations
Rebuilders like AVP offer warranties, typically 12 months or 12,000 miles. However, these warranties are often limited and come with significant caveats:
- Non-Transferable: Warranties are usually non-transferable.
- Installation Requirements: Some require installation by a qualified technician.
- Maintenance Records: Regular maintenance is often a prerequisite.
- Exclusions: Common exclusions include burned or seized pistons, loose cylinder heads, worn piston rings, engine failure due to lack of oil, and bent valves.
- Claim Process: If a problem arises, you must contact the warranty manager before any repair work begins. Unauthorized disassembly voids the warranty.
- Return Shipping: You are typically responsible for shipping costs to return the engine for warranty repair, and they may not cover towing or consequential damages.
The limited nature of these warranties means that the purchaser often bears a significant portion of the risk. It's crucial to understand that rebuilders are often selling a "longblock," and the responsibility for ensuring the engine doesn't overheat due to installation or external factors often falls on the buyer.
Personal Experiences and Recommendations
The author's experience with an AVP engine highlights the importance of meticulous inspection and potential rework:
- Gasket Set Contents: Verify all gaskets are present and correct.
- Flywheel Issues: Check for proper flywheel rotation and any weld material obstructing movement.
- Leak-Down Discrepancies: Perform leak-down tests and be prepared to address valve sealing issues. Re-torquing heads after initial run-in is often recommended.
- Valve Train Problems: Inspect valve adjusting screws and re-adjust valve clearances.
- Compression Readings: Be aware that initial compression readings from rebuilders may not be accurate for a cold engine.
- Core Inspection: It is highly recommended to inspect your core engine before sending it for rebuild. Damage not visible externally can lead to core rejection and additional costs. Splitting the case and having it inspected by a trusted mechanic is advisable if you are unsure.
- Head Quality: The author found the rebuilt heads to be a significant weakness, requiring rework by a specialist. Purchasing heads directly from reputable head specialists is a strong recommendation.
Break-in Procedure and Maintenance
Follow the rebuilder's break-in instructions carefully. This typically involves:
- Using a specific oil weight (e.g., 20W50 in warm climates, 10W40 in colder climates). Avoid synthetic oils until the engine is fully broken in (around 1,000 miles).
- Regular oil changes and valve adjustments are crucial, especially in the initial stages. AVP's recommended intervals may differ from other sources; clarify these with them.
- Use 92 octane fuel to prevent pre-ignition and overheating.
The Mail Order Dilemma
Buying an engine via mail order involves significant shipping costs. If the engine requires warranty work or is found to be faulty upon arrival, these costs can escalate rapidly. Local purchase and pick-up, if at all possible, can often be more cost-effective, even factoring in sales tax.
Final Thoughts: Due Diligence is Key
Sourcing a Type 4 engine requires a proactive and informed approach. While budget rebuilders offer an accessible option, understanding their limitations and the potential need for rework is paramount. Thorough inspection, meticulous pre-installation checks, and a clear understanding of warranty terms will significantly increase your chances of a successful and satisfying engine installation. Always remember, the "do it yourself" ethos extends to scrutinising the work of others when your beloved VW is on the line.
If you want to read more articles similar to Finding Your Type 4 Engine, you can visit the Engines category.
