Subaru Forester Front Brake Pad Swap

Mastering Your Subaru Forester's Front Brake Pads: A Comprehensive DIY Guide

Keeping your Subaru Forester's braking system in optimal condition is paramount for safety and performance. Over time, even the most robust brake pads will wear down, necessitating a replacement. This guide is specifically tailored for owners of the fourth generation (2014-2018) Subaru Forester, providing a detailed, step-by-step walkthrough of how to change the front disc brake pads and properly lubricate the crucial caliper slider pins. While focused on the Forester, many of these procedures will be beneficial for owners of other Subaru models such as the Outback, Impreza, Legacy, WRX, and BRZ, among others.

Identifying Compatible Front Brake Pads

When it comes to replacing your brake pads, choosing the right ones is essential. For your 2014-2018 Subaru Forester, several reputable brands offer compatible pads. Here are a few well-regarded options with their corresponding part numbers:

It's always a good practice to double-check compatibility with your specific vehicle's year and model before purchasing.

Essential Tools and Materials

Before you begin, ensure you have the following tools and supplies readily available:

• Lug nut wrench
• Floor jack
• Two jack stands
• 14mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• "F" clamp (or C-clamp)
• Tube of Sil-Glyde silicone brake caliper grease (or equivalent rubber-safe lubricant)
• Brake parts cleaner spray
• New front brake pads
• Optional: New brake hardware kit (includes anti-rattle clips)
• Optional: Torque wrench
• Optional: Rubber mallet
• Optional: New brake rotors (if yours are worn or damaged)
• Wheel chocks

Step-by-Step Replacement Procedure

1. Preparation and Safety First

Begin by parking your Subaru Forester on a level surface. Turn off the ignition and engage the parking brake. Place the transmission in "Park." For added safety, place wheel chocks securely on both sides of the rear tires to prevent any accidental rolling. It's recommended to work on one side of the vehicle at a time, leaving the other three wheels on the ground for stability.

2. Loosening Lug Nuts and Lifting the Vehicle

Using your lug nut wrench, slightly loosen the five lug nuts on the front wheel you'll be working on. Turn them about a quarter turn counterclockwise. Position your floor jack under the designated jacking point for the front of the vehicle. Raise the car until the front wheel is clear of the ground. Securely place at least two jack stands under the vehicle's frame or appropriate support points. Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.

3. Removing the Wheel and Accessing the Caliper

Completely spin off the five lug nuts and keep them in a safe place. Carefully pull the front wheel off the hub and set it aside. You will now have a clear view of the brake caliper, bracket, rotor, and suspension components.

4. Detaching the Brake Caliper

The brake caliper is secured to the caliper bracket by two bolts, typically located on the rear side of the caliper, facing towards the engine bay. Using your 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet, loosen these two caliper bolts by turning them clockwise (when viewed from the outside of the vehicle). Once loosened, spin them out completely and set them aside. Carefully lift the brake caliper off the caliper bracket and away from the old brake pads. It's crucial to support the caliper to avoid stressing the flexible brake hose. You can rest it on the brake rotor or suspend it from the suspension spring using a bungee cord or sturdy wire.

5. Removing Old Brake Pads and Hardware

With the caliper removed, you can now pull out the old inner and outer brake pads from the caliper bracket. You'll notice that these pads are equipped with wear indicator bars (often called "squeal" bars) and metal spring clips. These clips help retract the pads slightly from the rotor when the brake pedal is released. If your new brake pads came with a new set of brake hardware, it's advisable to replace the old pad abutment or "anti-rattle" clips. Remove the old clips from the top and bottom of the caliper bracket.

6. Lubricating Caliper Slider Pins

Smooth operation of the brake caliper relies heavily on well-lubricated caliper slider pins, also known as guide bolts. Gently pull the two caliper slider pins out of their rubber dust boots. Apply a thin, even layer of high-quality brake parts lubricant grease, such as Sil-Glyde, to the smooth, metal portions of the slider pins. Crucially, avoid using petroleum-based greases, as these can damage the rubber boots and seals, leading to premature failure and braking issues. Once lubricated, carefully slide the pins back into their respective rubber dust boots within the caliper bracket.

7. Compressing Caliper Pistons

To accommodate the slightly thicker new brake pads, the caliper pistons must be retracted back into the caliper body. Attach your "F" clamp (or C-clamp) to the caliper. Use the back of an old brake pad placed against the pistons to distribute the pressure evenly. Locate the brake fluid reservoir in the engine bay (usually marked with a yellow cap). Twist off the cap. This allows the brake fluid to flow back into the reservoir as you compress the pistons. Slowly and steadily turn the handle of the "F" clamp clockwise to push the pistons back. You may need to reposition the clamp to ensure both pistons are compressed evenly until they are almost flush with the rubber dust boots. Be careful not to pinch or damage these rubber boots.

8. Installing New Brake Pads and Hardware

Before installing the new pads, apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease to the areas of the new pad abutment clips that will contact the caliper bracket and the "ears" of the new brake pads. Press the new pad abutment clips firmly into the top and bottom of the caliper bracket until they are fully seated. Now, insert the new brake pads into the caliper bracket. Ensure the wear indicator bars and metal spring clips are positioned correctly, typically at the bottom of the pads.

9. Reinstalling the Brake Caliper

Carefully lower the brake caliper back over the new brake pads and onto the caliper bracket. If the caliper feels tight and won't easily fit, you may need to compress the pistons a bit further. Align the bolt holes in the caliper with the threaded holes in the caliper slider pins. Thread the two caliper bolts in by hand a few turns, turning them counterclockwise (when viewed from the outside) to prevent cross-threading. Once they are started, use your 14mm socket and ratchet to tighten them. The recommended torque for these bolts is approximately 19.9 lb-ft. If you don't have a torque wrench, tighten them until snug, ensuring they are not overtightened.

10. Inspecting and Replacing Rotors (If Necessary)

While the caliper is off, take the opportunity to inspect your brake rotors. If you've noticed any shuddering, pulsation, or vibration during braking, your rotors may need to be resurfaced ("turned") or replaced. If the rotors appear to be in good condition and this is your first brake job, simply replacing the pads might suffice. If you need to replace the rotors, you'll first need to remove the two 17mm bolts securing the caliper bracket to the steering knuckle. Then, use a rubber mallet to gently tap the old rotor loose. Slide it off and install the new rotor. The torque specification for the 17mm front brake caliper bracket bolts is typically 59 lb-ft.

11. Reinstalling the Wheel and Final Checks

Carefully place the front wheel back onto the hub. Thread the five lug nuts back on by hand in a clockwise direction, ensuring they don't cross-thread. Using your lug nut wrench, tighten the lug nuts in a star or criss-cross pattern to ensure the wheel is seated evenly. Once snug, lower the vehicle back to the ground by raising it slightly off the jack stands with the floor jack, removing the jack stands, and then slowly lowering the vehicle completely.

12. Priming the Brakes and Final Tightening

Before driving, it's essential to "prime" the brake system. Get into the vehicle and pump the brake pedal several times until it feels firm. This action ensures that the caliper pistons are fully extended and making contact with the new pads. Once the pedal feels firm, give the lug nuts a final tightening with the lug nut wrench in the star pattern to the manufacturer's recommended torque specification (typically around 80-100 lb-ft for a Forester).

Addressing Potential Issues: Spongy Pedal and Brake Fluid

If your Forester's brake pedal has been feeling soft or spongy, this could indicate contaminated brake fluid or air in the brake lines. In such cases, it's highly recommended to bleed your brake lines. This process flushes out old fluid and replaces it with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. The brake fluid bleeder valve is usually located on the back of the caliper, beneath a rubber cap. For detailed instructions on bleeding your brakes, consult specialized guides on brake bleeding with an assistant or using a power bleeder.

Post-Replacement Bedding-In Procedure

For optimal performance and longevity of your new brake pads and rotors, it's important to "bed them in." This process involves a series of moderate stops from increasing speeds, followed by a period of cooling. Typically, this involves making about 5-10 stops from around 30-40 mph down to about 10 mph, without coming to a complete halt. After these stops, drive for a few minutes without braking to allow the brakes to cool. Avoid hard, sudden braking for the first 200 miles or so.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Q1: How often should I replace my front brake pads?
Replacement intervals vary depending on driving habits and conditions, but a general guideline is every 30,000 to 70,000 miles. Regularly inspecting your pads for wear is the best approach.

Q2: Can I replace just the brake pads without replacing the rotors?
Yes, if your rotors are still in good condition (no significant scoring, warping, or minimum thickness reached), you can often just replace the pads. However, if you experience vibrations or pulsing, new rotors are usually necessary.

Q3: What happens if I don't lubricate the caliper slider pins?
Lack of lubrication can cause the caliper to bind or stick, leading to uneven braking, premature pad wear, and potential damage to other brake components.

Q4: Is it safe to drive immediately after changing brake pads?
While you can drive, it's crucial to perform the bedding-in procedure and avoid hard braking for the first few hundred miles to ensure the new pads and rotors seat properly.

Q5: What type of grease should I use for brake components?
Always use a silicone-based brake lubricant specifically designed for brake systems. Never use regular grease or petroleum-based products, as they can degrade rubber components.

By following these detailed steps, you can confidently tackle the job of replacing your Subaru Forester's front brake pads, ensuring a safer and more reliable driving experience.

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