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DIY Oil Filter Change: A UK Guide

01/12/2021

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Regular oil changes are the lifeblood of your vehicle’s engine, and the oil filter plays a crucial role in keeping that blood clean. Over time, the filter collects contaminants, preventing them from recirculating through your engine and causing wear. While it might seem daunting, changing your oil filter is a perfectly manageable DIY task that can save you a trip to the garage and provide immense satisfaction. This detailed guide will walk you through the process, ensuring you have all the knowledge to complete the job safely and effectively.

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Before you begin, gather all your necessary tools and materials. Having everything at hand will make the process smoother and more efficient. Remember, preparation is key to a successful oil change.

Table

Essential Tools and Materials

To embark on your oil filter change, you’ll need a few specific items. Based on common requirements, here's what you should have ready:

  • 15mm wrench (or spanner)
  • T30 Torx bit
  • A container for draining old oil (minimum 5 litres capacity)
  • New engine oil (e.g., 5W-20, approximately 4.75 litres, or as per your vehicle's manual)
  • New oil filter (e.g., FL-910S, ensure it's the correct one for your car model)
  • Floor jack
  • Jack stand
  • Wheel chocks (for added safety)
  • Rags or old towels
  • Gloves (disposable nitrile or latex are recommended)
  • Torque wrench (for accurate drain plug tightening)

Prioritising Safety

Safety should always be your top concern when working under a vehicle. Improper lifting or support can lead to serious injury. Always follow these guidelines:

  • Park your car on a level, solid surface.
  • Engage the parking brake.
  • Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels (if lifting the front).
  • Locate the front driver jack point (consult your vehicle's manual for exact locations).
  • Use a reliable floor jack to lift the front of the vehicle.
  • Once lifted, immediately position a sturdy jack stand beneath a secure support point on the vehicle's frame. Never rely solely on the jack.
  • Gently lower the vehicle until it rests securely on the jack stand.
  • Alternatively, using car ramps can be an easier and safer option for gaining under-car access, as they eliminate the need for a jack and stand.

Once your vehicle is securely supported, you can proceed to access the oil filter and drain plug.

Accessing the Oil Filter and Drain Plug

Many modern vehicles, especially Fords, feature a felt under-panel that needs to be removed to access both the oil filter and the drain plug. Don't be tempted to cut a hole in this panel; it’s designed for easy removal and will need to come off to properly drain the oil.

To remove the felt panel:

  1. Identify the various bolts holding the panel in place. You'll likely need your 15mm wrench and T30 Torx bit for these.
  2. Begin by loosening most of the bolts.
  3. The trick to keeping the panel from falling on you is to remove the bolt located at the front centre of the car (often indicated by a red arrow in diagrams) last.
  4. This bolt, combined with notches (often indicated by yellow arrows), will allow the panel to hang nicely, preventing it from dropping completely until you're ready.
  5. Once all bolts are removed, carefully lower the panel and set it aside.

Draining the Old Engine Oil

With the under-panel removed, you'll have clear access to the oil pan drain plug. Position your oil drain container directly beneath the plug. Ensure the container has enough capacity to hold all the old oil (around 4.75 litres for many cars).

Using your 15mm wrench, carefully loosen the drain plug. Be prepared for the oil to flow out quickly once the plug is fully removed. Allow ample time for all the oil to drain completely. While the oil is draining, you can proceed to the next step, but ensure you keep an eye on the flow.

Once the oil has finished draining, wipe any excess oil from around the drain hole and reinsert the drain plug. It's crucial to tighten this plug to the manufacturer's specified torque. For Ford vehicles, the oil pan drain plug (Part# 6730) typically requires a torque of 27 Nm (20 lb-ft). Using a torque wrench here prevents both overtightening (which can strip threads) and undertightening (which can lead to leaks). Don't forget this step before lowering the car!

Removing the Old Oil Filter

The oil filter is usually located nearby the drain plug, often on the side or front of the engine block. In many cases, like with the FL-910S filter, it's surprisingly accessible. You might not even need a special oil filter wrench!

With two hands, firmly grasp the old oil filter and twist it counter-clockwise to loosen it. Be prepared for a small amount of residual oil to drip out as you remove it. Have your rag ready to catch any spills. Once loose, unscrew the filter completely and set it aside in your drain pan to capture any remaining oil.

Installing the New Oil Filter

Installing the new filter correctly is vital for preventing leaks and ensuring proper filtration. Here’s the step-by-step process:

  1. Take your new FL-910S oil filter.
  2. Dip your finger into some of the new engine oil and apply a thin film to the rubber gasket on the new filter. This lubricates the gasket, allowing it to seal properly and preventing it from sticking or tearing during installation.
  3. Wipe away any dirt or old oil from the gasket surface on the engine block where the filter mounts. A clean surface ensures a perfect seal.
  4. Carefully screw the new filter onto the engine by hand. Turn it clockwise until you feel the rubber gasket make contact with the engine's mounting surface.
  5. Once it touches, continue to screw the filter by hand for an additional 3/4 of a turn. This hand-tightening method, plus the extra turn, is usually sufficient to create a secure seal without overtightening, which can damage the filter or its mounting.

Refilling the Engine Oil

With the new filter in place and the drain plug securely tightened, you can now add the fresh oil. Refer to your vehicle's manual for the exact oil capacity and type. The information provided suggests 5W-20 oil, with a total capacity around 4.5 quarts (approximately 4.26 litres) to reach the top of the dipstick hash marks. It's often safer to add slightly less than the full amount initially and then top up.

Pour about 4 quarts (approximately 3.78 litres) of new 5W-20 oil into the engine's oil fill cap. This amount should be enough to register halfway between the two holes on the dipstick.

To avoid some of the initial engine clatter after an oil change, you can pre-fill the oil filter:

  • Turn the ignition key to the 'ON' position (without starting the engine).
  • For push-button start vehicles, press and hold the START/STOP button for two seconds without pressing the brake pedal.
  • Press the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor.
  • Crank the engine for a few seconds (typically 5-10 seconds). This action usually cuts off fuel delivery but allows the oil pump to prime and fill the new oil filter, reducing the dry start period.

After performing this, wait a few minutes for the oil to settle, then check the dipstick. Add more oil gradually until it reaches the 'full' mark on the dipstick (usually the top hash mark).

Final Checks and Oil Life Reset

Before lowering your vehicle, carefully inspect around the new oil filter and the drain plug for any signs of leaks. If you see any drips, tighten the filter or drain plug slightly (but do not overtighten) and recheck. Once you're confident there are no leaks, replace the felt under-panel, ensuring all bolts are securely fastened.

Now you can safely lower your car. After lowering, let the car sit for a few more minutes to allow all the oil to settle, then check the dipstick one last time and top off if necessary. Your vehicle will likely take exactly 4.5 quarts (approximately 4.26 litres) to reach the top of the hash marks.

Finally, you need to reset your vehicle's oil life monitor. This ensures your car correctly tracks the next service interval. The process varies slightly between key ignition and push-button start vehicles:

For Key Ignition Vehicles:

  1. Turn the ignition key to the 'ON' position. Do not start the engine.
  2. Press both the accelerator and brake pedals at the same time.
  3. Keep both pedals fully pressed.
  4. After three seconds, the 'Service: Oil reset in prog.' message will be displayed.
  5. After 25 seconds, the 'Service: Oil reset complete' message will be displayed.
  6. Release both the accelerator and brake pedals.
  7. The 'Service: Oil reset complete' message will no longer be displayed.
  8. Rotate the key to the 'OFF' position.

For Push-Button Start Vehicles:

  1. Press and hold the START/STOP button for two seconds without pressing the brake pedal. Do not attempt to start the engine.
  2. Press both the accelerator and brake pedals at the same time.
  3. Keep both pedals fully pressed.
  4. After three seconds, the 'Service: Oil reset in prog.' message will be displayed.
  5. After 25 seconds, the 'Service: Oil reset complete' message will be displayed.
  6. Release both the accelerator and brake pedals.
  7. The 'Service: Oil reset complete' message will no longer be displayed.
  8. Press the START/STOP button to turn the vehicle off completely.

Oil Type Comparison

When selecting engine oil, it's essential to use the type and viscosity recommended by your vehicle manufacturer. For many Ford vehicles, 5W-20 synthetic blend or full synthetic is specified. Here’s a comparison of two common options:

FeatureMotorcraft 5W-20 Synthetic BlendMobil 1 5W-20 Full Synthetic
TypeSynthetic BlendFull Synthetic
AvailabilityWidely available, often at dealerships and major retailers (e.g., Walmart)Widely available at auto parts stores and major retailers (e.g., Walmart)
CostGenerally more cost-effectiveTypically higher priced
PerformanceMeets or exceeds Ford specifications for regular driving conditionsOffers enhanced protection and performance, especially in extreme temperatures or demanding conditions
Ford CompatibilityOften the OEM recommended oil for Ford vehiclesExcellent aftermarket alternative, often exceeding OEM requirements

Both options, when meeting the 5W-20 specification, are suitable for vehicles requiring this viscosity. The choice often comes down to budget and desired level of engine protection.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Why is it important to change my oil filter?

The oil filter traps contaminants such as dirt, metal particles, and sludge that accumulate in your engine oil over time. A clogged filter can restrict oil flow, leading to inadequate lubrication and premature engine wear. Regular filter changes ensure your engine receives clean oil, extending its lifespan and maintaining performance.

How often should I change my oil and oil filter?

The frequency depends on your vehicle's make, model, driving conditions, and the type of oil used. Generally, it's recommended every 5,000 to 10,000 miles (or every 6 to 12 months) for modern vehicles using synthetic oil. Always consult your vehicle's owner's manual for the precise recommended service interval.

Can I use a different brand of oil filter than the OEM?

Yes, as long as the aftermarket oil filter meets or exceeds the specifications of your vehicle's original equipment manufacturer (OEM) filter. Ensure the filter has the correct thread size, gasket diameter, and bypass valve pressure. Filters like the FL-910S are specific to certain applications, so always double-check compatibility.

What if I don't have a torque wrench for the drain plug?

While a torque wrench is highly recommended for precise tightening, if you don't have one, you can hand-tighten the drain plug until snug, then give it a small additional turn with your wrench. Be careful not to overtighten, as this can strip the oil pan threads, leading to costly repairs. Check for leaks after refilling and driving.

How do I properly dispose of old engine oil?

Used engine oil is a hazardous waste and should never be poured down drains or onto the ground. Most local council recycling centres, auto parts stores, and garages accept used engine oil for recycling. Store it in a sealed container (like the one the new oil came in) and take it to an approved collection point.

Is it normal for the oil light to flicker after an oil change?

A brief flicker of the oil pressure light immediately after starting the engine is often normal, especially if the oil filter was not pre-filled. This indicates the oil pump is building pressure and filling the new filter. If the light stays on for more than a few seconds or flickers while driving, shut off the engine immediately and check your oil level and for any leaks.

Conclusion

Changing your own oil filter, along with the engine oil, is a fundamental maintenance task that every car owner can learn. By following these detailed steps, you not only save money but also gain a deeper understanding of your vehicle. Regular oil and filter changes are paramount for the longevity and efficient running of your engine. With the right tools, a bit of patience, and a commitment to safety, you can confidently perform this essential service, ensuring your vehicle remains reliable for years to come.

If you want to read more articles similar to DIY Oil Filter Change: A UK Guide, you can visit the Maintenance category.

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