19/07/2006
- The Importance of Regular Lower Unit Oil Changes
- When Should You Change Your Outboard's Lower Unit Oil?
- What You'll Need
- Step-by-Step Guide to Changing Outboard Lower Unit Oil
- Step 1: Prepare Your Outboard
- Step 2: Locate and Identify Plugs
- Step 3: Position the Drain Pan
- Step 4: Remove the Lower Drain Plug First
- Step 5: Remove the Upper Fill Plug
- Step 6: Allow Complete Drainage
- Step 7: Refill the Lower Unit
- Step 8: Fill to the Correct Level
- Step 9: Reinstall the Top Plug
- Step 10: Remove Fill Tube and Install Bottom Plug
- Step 11: Final Touches
- Checking the Oil Level (Post-Change and Regular Checks)
- Important Considerations and Warnings
- Oil Capacity Chart (Tohatsu Models)
- Frequently Asked Questions
The Importance of Regular Lower Unit Oil Changes
Your outboard motor's lower unit is a complex and vital component, housing the gears and propeller shaft. Just like the engine oil in your car, the gear oil within the lower unit plays a crucial role in lubrication, cooling, and protecting these essential parts from wear and tear. Over time, this oil can degrade, become contaminated with water or metal shavings, and lose its protective properties. Neglecting regular oil changes can lead to increased friction, overheating, premature gear wear, and ultimately, costly damage to your outboard. This guide will provide you with a clear, step-by-step process to effectively change the lower unit oil on your outboard motor, ensuring it performs at its best for years to come.

When Should You Change Your Outboard's Lower Unit Oil?
The frequency of lower unit oil changes can vary depending on usage and operating conditions. However, a general recommendation is to change it at least once a year, or every 100 hours of operation, whichever comes first. It's also wise to inspect the oil regularly. If you notice any signs of water contamination (milky or cloudy oil), metal filings (indicating gear wear), or if the oil appears excessively dark or burnt, it's time for an immediate oil change, regardless of the recommended schedule.
What You'll Need
Before you begin, ensure you have the necessary tools and supplies:
- New Lower Unit Gear Oil: Refer to your outboard's manual for the correct type and viscosity (commonly API GL5 SAE 80 or 90 weight). Do not mix different brands or weights.
- Oil Drain Pan: A pan large enough to hold all the old oil.
- Siphon Pump or Transfer Pump: For extracting the old oil and filling with new. Squeeze bottles with integrated tubes are also common.
- Wrenches: To remove the drain and fill plugs (usually a flathead screwdriver or a specific sized wrench).
- Shop Rags or Paper Towels: For cleaning up spills.
- Gloves: To keep your hands clean.
- Proper Disposal Method: For used oil (recycling centres are ideal).
Step-by-Step Guide to Changing Outboard Lower Unit Oil
Step 1: Prepare Your Outboard
Ensure your outboard is in a vertical and upright position. This is crucial for proper drainage and filling. If your outboard is on a boat, trim it up to this position. If it's on a stand, ensure it's stable.
Step 2: Locate and Identify Plugs
On the lower unit of your outboard, you will find two plugs: an upper fill/vent plug and a lower drain plug. Identify them clearly. The lower plug is typically at the very bottom of the gearcase, and the upper plug is usually located higher up, often near the anti-ventilation plate.
Step 3: Position the Drain Pan
Place your oil drain pan directly beneath the lower unit, specifically under the lower drain plug. Ensure it's positioned to catch all the oil that will be drained.
Step 4: Remove the Lower Drain Plug First
Using the appropriate tool (often a flathead screwdriver or wrench), carefully remove the bottom drain plug. Be prepared for oil to start trickling out. Having the drain pan perfectly positioned from the start will prevent a mess.
Step 5: Remove the Upper Fill Plug
Now, remove the top fill plug. This is a critical step. Removing the top plug will break the vacuum seal within the lower unit, allowing the oil to drain out much more freely and completely. If you only removed the bottom plug, the oil would drain very slowly, and you wouldn't get a full evacuation.
Step 6: Allow Complete Drainage
Let all the old oil drain out of the lower unit. This process typically takes about 5-10 minutes, but can vary. You'll know it's finished when the oil flow reduces to a drip.
Step 7: Refill the Lower Unit
Once all the old oil has drained, it's time to refill. You can use a dedicated outboard gear oil pump, a squeeze bottle with a tube, or a siphon pump. The most common method for DIYers is a squeeze bottle or a pump that screws onto the oil bottle.
Insert the fill tube or nozzle into the BOTTOM drain hole. Begin slowly squeezing the bottle or operating the pump to force the new oil into the lower unit. It's important to start filling from the bottom.

Step 8: Fill to the Correct Level
Continue adding oil until the lubricant starts to flow freely from the top hole and appears to be free of air bubbles. This indicates the lower unit is full.
Step 9: Reinstall the Top Plug
With the fill tube still in the bottom hole, carefully re-install the TOP fill plug. This action creates a slight vacuum within the lower unit, which helps to minimize oil loss when you remove the fill tube. If you're using a squeeze bottle, you might need to keep your finger over the bottom hole while you screw in the top plug.
Step 10: Remove Fill Tube and Install Bottom Plug
Now, QUICKLY remove the fill tube (or your finger) from the bottom hole and immediately install the bottom drain plug. Speed is essential here to prevent excessive oil loss. Even with the vacuum created in the previous step, some oil will inevitably spill out. Don't be overly concerned about a small amount of loss. However, if a significant amount of oil escapes, you may need to repeat the filling process to reach the correct level.
Step 11: Final Touches
Once both plugs are reinstalled, hand-tighten them securely. Wipe away any excess oil from the lower unit with your rags. Congratulations, you've successfully changed your lower unit oil!
Checking the Oil Level (Post-Change and Regular Checks)
To check if the oil level is correct after the change, or for regular maintenance checks:
- Ensure the outboard is in a vertical position.
- Remove the top oil plug.
- Insert a small piece of wire or a dipstick straight into the top hole, approximately 1 inch.
- Withdraw the wire or dipstick. If oil is present on the end, the oil level is correct.
- If no oil is present, the unit needs more oil. To add oil, reinstall the top plug, remove the bottom plug, and refill from the bottom until oil just starts to come out of the bottom hole. Then, reinstall the bottom plug, remove the top plug to release the vacuum, and add the necessary amount of oil until it flows freely from the top hole. Reinstall the top plug, then quickly reinstall the bottom plug.
Important Considerations and Warnings
- Never run your outboard without the lower unit completely filled with oil to the proper level. This can cause severe and irreversible damage.
- Proper Disposal: Used gear oil is a hazardous waste. Never pour it down drains or into the environment. Take it to an authorized oil recycling centre. Many auto service stations or quick lube centres will accept used oil for a small fee.
- Seal Inspection: While you're at it, it's a good opportunity to inspect the drain and fill plugs for their rubber washers. These washers can degrade over time and should be replaced if they look worn or damaged to prevent leaks.
Oil Capacity Chart (Tohatsu Models)
The following chart provides approximate oil capacities for various Tohatsu outboard models. Always consult your specific owner's manual for the most accurate information.
| Model | Engine Type | Approximate Fluid Ounces Required |
|---|---|---|
| M2.5/3.5A2 | 2-Stroke | 3.0 fl oz (90 mL) |
| M3.5B2 & MFS2.5/3.5B | 2-Stroke & 4-Stroke | 6.1 fl oz (180 mL) |
| M4C/5B & MFS4/5/6C/5C LPG | 2-Stroke & 4-Stroke | 6.6 fl oz (195 mL) |
| M6/8/9.8B & MFS6BZ/8/9.8B | 2-Stroke & 4-Stroke | 10.8 fl oz (320 mL) |
| M9.9/15D2/18E2/MX15/18E2 & MFS15/20E | 2-Stroke & 4-Stroke | 12.5 fl oz (370 mL) |
| M25/30H/MX25/30H & MFS25/30C | 2-Stroke & 4-Stroke | 12.2 fl oz (360 mL) |
| M40/50D2/MX40/50D3 & MFS40/50A & MD40/50B2 (TLDI) | 2-Stroke & 4-Stroke | 16.9 fl oz (500 mL) |
| BFT60 | 4-Stroke | 14.5 fl oz (430 mL) |
| M60C through 140A2 & MD75C2 through 115A2 (TLDI) | 2-Stroke & TLDI | 30.4 fl oz (900 mL) |
| BFTW60/75/90 | 4-Stroke | 32.1 fl oz (950 mL) |
| BFT115/150 | 4-Stroke | 33.1 fl oz (980 mL) |
| BFT200/225 | 4-Stroke | 39.5 fl oz (1,170 mL) |
| BFT250 | 4-Stroke | 49.7 fl oz (1,470 mL) |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can I use car oil in my outboard's lower unit?
A: No, it's essential to use gear oil specifically designed for marine lower units. Automotive engine oil or gear oil may not have the correct additives or viscosity to protect the gears and bearings in a marine environment, especially under the constant load and potential water exposure.
Q: What happens if I overfill the lower unit?
A: Overfilling can cause the oil to foam, reducing its lubricating properties. It can also lead to pressure build-up and potential leaks through seals. Always fill to the level indicated by the top plug.
Q: My old oil was very dark, is that normal?
A: Dark oil can indicate normal wear and tear, as the oil picks up tiny metal particles from the gears. However, if the oil is black, thick, or contains significant amounts of metal shavings, it could be a sign of serious gear wear and warrants further investigation by a qualified marine mechanic.
Q: How often should I check my lower unit oil?
A: It's a good practice to check your lower unit oil level at the beginning of each boating season and at regular intervals throughout, especially if you've been operating in demanding conditions or suspect a leak.
By following these steps and recommendations, you can confidently maintain your outboard motor's lower unit, ensuring reliable performance and extending its lifespan. Remember, proper maintenance is key to enjoying your time on the water.
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